xXInkedPhoenixX

I'd cover some rock and wood with java moss, lil shrimp love that stuff.

You get notifications whenever someone tags you like that.

Well that's kind of what I'm saying, I'd skip anything carpeting in a breeding set up. I would stick with gravel or sand. Moss would be great as long as it's growing on the rock or wood you put in the tank- that way you can move those items when needed to catch shrimp. This is just my opinion though- if you really want to try carpeting don't let anyone stop you! Small tip for the forum, when answering a specific memberr-- type @ then start typing their screen name which will pop up and you can select it. If I wasn't watching the forum I'd miss your reply @Kaiju :-)

Ah yeah, dwarf baby tears would be hard to do with that sort of set up IMO. They can be easily uprooted and are not easy to grow in a lot of set ups. If it were a shrimp tank you didn't plan to sell out of I'd say go for it, but you might have issues if you have to get shrimp out of there regularly.

It definitely looks like it could be Ich but hard to tell from just the one pic. There is one other disease that is similar and important to make sure if you plan on using heat to treat (personally I'd only medicate and not use heat no matter which it is) This chart from our @Colu may help you id to be sure:

If as you say this is a breeding project you're going to want to get those shrimp out of the tank from time to time to sell them or even just inventory them. It's nice when you can at least make your breeding tank look nice so in this case I would use things that are easily removed so you can net your bred animals. Personally I wouln't plant any plants- I would use rhizome only plants that you can glue to the rocks and move when needed. I love any type of Java Fern or Anubias that fits the tank you're using. This way the rocks and plants can be moved as needed with no need to uproot plants to find or catch stock.

Bummer! Yes I agree with @Galabar, when you test next, post your results here and let us know what they are (or post your last ones). Barring anything crazy there it could be a water issue but I wonder about that until we see further. How often do you clean the filtering on your tank? I find that I have hard luck with closed systems like the Flexes- I've had one, and I had mysterious deaths as well- so I've given up entirely on that style of tank.

Hi! Saw nobody had answered you yet so I have a few insights. Welcome to the forum! I would ask you personally first- ask yourself- do you get bored easily with your tank? I know a lot of hobbyists that just like changing it up constantly. If that is you, this might just be your pattern in the hobby, maybe changing things up keep you interested. However, if it is just overall dissatisfaction with what you have had so far I would consider these points. You do have high pH so if you don't want to be become a water chemist and mess with that constantly and put your fish in a wobbly environment occassionally (which causes stress and illness) then stick with fish that are high pH tolerant. I think you have good options there. IMO the largest of the Flexes isn't the best tank for most cichlid types because generally you get fewer fish and less action. You did express some interest in having a more "exciting" tank. I think a community tank is the way to go. Personally I think a combination of Molly, Swordtails, Platies and Guppies make for an exciting tank. If you don't want reproduction you can go with small combinations of males that are generally pretty and never ending movement. I think you can also consider one of a few of our favorites here that might be able to tolerate your parameters: Bolivian Ram. They are a lot less picky about pH than their Blue Ram brothers and while not as pretty according to some (I disagree) they are FULL of lovely personality, are a great centerpiece and would occupy the bottom half of the tank. I would check your area for Bolivians kept in similar parameters. As far as plants, yes, get yourself some actual plant substrate this will definitely help you- even if it's just gravel. Plants that need their roots covered will not benefit by being in sand as it doesn't allow nutrients to the plant- then they suffer. OR, switch it up to rhizome plants only (Anubias, Java Fern) which don't require planting.

I started using lithium battery backed air pumps before ACO got theirs (I'm a reviewer/tester for a major online seller and have one that looks EXACTLY like Cory's only it's red and white- as he says they are probably made in the same factory in China just with his mods). I am a BIG believer in them. I run smaller tanks but all of them but one has 2 forms of filtration and all of them have a sponge filter that is run by a lithium backed pump. If the tank has 2 sponges one is run by a regular pump. This also guarantees if one pump fails the other should still work till the failure is found OR if the power goes out at least one filter is running in every tank. It doesn't hurt to run an airstone full time either.

Nice of you to offer but I'm sure shipping costs from you to me would be cost prohibitive! That would be an issue, as I don't plan, if I find the wood I want, to place it in a way that I'd be able to take it out (conveniently). I do that with little pieces but large pieces, especially in a wood-floored room would be an issue if it was done frequently. So this is why I ask about wood I won't have a problem with! :-)

My otos started with Hikari Algae wafers and I raised fry by crushing said wafers so it's still one of my favorite staple foods to feed them. I have also found my Otos and other bottom feeders in that tank (Julii Cory, Albino Pleco, Mystery Snail) actually go NUTS for Super Green Repashy. I do feed Soilent but alternate it. I also often mix in Community Plus since the addition of other fish besides the Otos (I didn't feed community plus before when it was just the Oto tank). They also really like Xtreme Bottom Wafers. I've tried veggies too but they just don't seem to go nutty for them. Cucumber was the closest I got and only had luck with ENGLISH style cucumbers. I just don't bother anymore to be honest since everyone eats what I've mentioned above.

Ah wonderful, I do hope you picked right! Even if you end up with 2 girls maybe it will still be a serendipitous set up (as 2 males would probably be jerks to each other, however you never know). I think when they are small it's near impossible to tell- which is why I put out the call to my local area when looking for Punk's girl. I had to be 100% sure I was getting a girl. And I still think fins is no way to tell if a Bolivian is male or female- it's definitely the organs hands down. So I'm crossing fingers for you!!! Yes, Bolivians are oblivious (ha) to BBS (I only feed frozen and they get ignored which is why the day those go in the Bolvians get the bloodworms (and inevitably their tankmates get some too). Mine also like flake food. Vibra bites I feed but the tetras/rasboras don't seem to touch them and I'm not sure the Bolivians are "in love" with them but someone eats them eventually (probably the snails). Industry is good about picking food that has fallen on the plant leaves too as she actually seems to like occupying middle in the tank.

Mostly I want to try and minimize the larger amounts of mulm produced by some woods. Spiderwood seems to be decent at NOT doing this when compared to other wood I've used like grapewood. I know it's unavoidable to an extent and if the tank lasts long enough any wood might have to be replaced at some point but I'd like to start strong here.

Wondering, because the time is coming to when the tank gets delivered AND I want to start keeping an eye out for a perfect piece.....Is there any wood that is hard enough to not put too much debris in the water? I realize any wood is going to eventually decompose and because of that IF I put wood in the new tank I will likely only put one large piece in. Any tips on types of wood to look for?

Looks awesome! So many inhabitants!

I'd like a tank full of glass catfish. There's just something ethereal about them and I love it.

I'm with you entirely. I still have a small outbreak in the Medieval tank and spent about 20 minutes soley focused on removing what I could catch all the while acknowledging that even though I was doing this I wasn't going to get it all and therefore would be doing it all over again next week. And so not only do I have the guppy issue I also have the shrimp issue now. ugh.

Honestly I lean towards dumb because usually when they're doing that with me I'm scooping out floating plants to toss in the water change bucket for discard. *palm to face*

Hi. I have to say, basically the same thing. I've had a betta from a breeder, betta from my LFS and betta from the local big box (that were seemingly healthy and others that weren't and I brought back to life). It seems a year, give or take a little, is about average for me despite efforts to make sure I do everything right. It's a shame too, they are beautiful, full of personality and easy to get attached to. I've sworn them off before, swelled to several, and now back down to 1 again. I think I might swear them off again. Or only ever keep one.

Yea sorry my friend, I have too. Generally now if the tank I set up is doing well I don't add anymore of their type unless I'm down to 1 or 2.

In my experience, yes I think this happens. I've tried a combination of endlers/guppies and even guppies and guppies or endlers and endlers and I've only ever kept males - and I've had similar issues. Funny part is I've never seen the actual fish murder, as I call it, this seems to happen at night, but I have seen evidence of aggression and in some cases tattered body parts (mostly tails) and unusual behavior (like that bullied fish trying to hide or not behaving normally prior to their disappearance). I do my best to separate those out when I can. I also sometimes wonder if they die of exhaustion becausee both of these fish never quit, it's ridiculous how much energy they have. This scenario also morphs with males/females due to breeding aggression and ratios of m to f.

Sorry forgot to answer these, pH runs from 7.4-7.8 and I don't have a heater in their tank so depending on time of year 72-77

You're right, substrate color may be playing against her a little. Also I think if I remember correctly some of the things they put in snail food is also good for color enhancing but don't quote me on that. As far as caves or huts, no. I mean Punk used the coconut house that's suctioned to the side of the tank in the beginning, probably out of insecurity, but I never see either of them actively using it. Since they are not cave layers I doubt that it is in their nature to use them.

I've never kept Apistos, but I do know they might have different water parameter needs- if the ones you choose do not (as Bolivians seem far less finicky so that shouldn't be an issue) I would say 1 male Apisto and 1 Bolivian male theoretically is fine- why because if the Apisto had a female there would be issues with other fish- without a breeding partner to get aggro about then the tank would probably be peaceful, and vice versa for the Bolivian. Again this can be dependent on personality because at times this can be a problem- but I would try it. I'm currently in a "wait and see" holding pattern for if my male/female start breeding. I'm wondering if my male will get more aggro with the community fish or not. He already kind of just keeps them clear of the bottom of the tank most of the time.

Well if you notice, Industry has colorful fins too, all depends on lighting and the angle I'm taking pics at, some days they are more colorful than others. As evidenced, this is actually her front/center: Her previously giving me lip: Bolivian males and females have the same coloring and often the same shape, which is why many say they are very hard to sex and I believe the only reliable way is by protruding sex organs. My two change color a lot, sometimes lighter, sometimes darker. I've also noticed some Bolivians are more gold than blue which I think Snoopy is more gold, whereas mine are more blue. This is just an observation though. I feed them Fluval Bug Bite flakes, Xtreme Krill, ACO fry food, occasional Hikari Vibra Bites and 1x a week they get frozen bloodworms and the tank gets baby brine (frozen) but not sure how much of those they eat.