anewbie
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Posts posted by anewbie
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Not an answer as to specifics but there are two types of fishes illegal - those that are endangered and those that are pests but it isn't only fishes - for those who send plants to friends there are many aquarium plants that are illegal in certain states....
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I believe it is more important for the cardinals to be in softish water than the live bearers to be in hardwater. I can't really make any definitive comment on water hardness and longevity but certainly in my experience with live breeders they will readily breed and live many years without special water treatment but the cardinals are a bit more demanding. While the cardinals can adapt to hard water (tank bred are better at this than wild caught) there are limits.
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Also we throw around terms like hard water and soft water without qualification. I keep my fishes in water that is gh 7 kh 3 which is not super soft but also not exactly hard. Anyway my swordtails and guppies have no problem producing more frys than i want or for that matter any of the other fishes in the tank want and my oldest swordtail is now 4 years old - though just looking at him you can tell he is a bit long in the tooth. Sadly i cycle through the femals giving the to the lfs as my fish population grows so i've not kept a female more than 18 months or 2 years. The guppies are not as long lived lasting only a couple of years...
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Anyway unless your tap is extreme in either direction i would try to stick to tap as treating the water risk shocking the fish when you change the water (new water not same hardness as old water). There are exceptions to his - as african cichlid require hardness water 10+kh and many more sensitive south american cichlid require very soft water (0-1 kh - 50 tds).
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Guppies and mollies do ok in brackish water but i cannot state (again) the long term impact relative to fresh water.
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You have a 20 long. The double red is most likely a cockatoo but it could be an Agassizi. Double red is a colour not a species. The cockatoo tend to stay torwards the bottom while betta will mostly stay near the top but with a 13 inch tall tank there is not much of a top or bottom (I have no experience with agassizi). As others noted it is likely territory but the problem with simply removing and re-adding if the fish is establishing territory it will eventually try to re-establish one as it ages. You can of course try that and it may work for a while but i would worry about the long term stability. Adding plants, driftwood or rocks to sort of create a territory might work as the fish will use natural barrier to establish a perimeter. Also a taller tank might help (which you will soon need for the angel). A 30 breeder will not be a good fit for the angel as it is also 12 inches tall. Probably the 50 breeder is the smallest tank that is a 'good' for the angel though a 29 is probably ok for a single angel (the 50 breeder is 19 inches tall and the 29 is 18). With the taller thank the betta will also spend more time near the top causing less friction with the low swimming apisto.
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There are a lot of problems with this setup. You didn't state which species of apisto you have - there are over a 100 different species with different behavior and requirements. You also didn't indicate the age of the fish (juvi or adults) nor if your tank is a 20 long or 20 high. You also did not provide the sex of your apisto. It is marginally difficult to give an answer to a long term solution without these details - though removing the apisto and re-adding short term might work chances are long term there will be an unhappy ending.
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Last but least a 20 long or 20 high is way too small for an adult angel; i suspect your angel is a juvi or runt but if it is not a runt by the time it reaches adult age (less than a year) you will want a larger tank.
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I would consider a 50B - which is the same dimension as a 40B but 19 inch tall instead of 16.... The specific reason for this suggestion is that a tank with more width has advantages - alternative there is a 75 which is 48 x 18 x 21 (l,w,h). A tank with 12 inch width is (imho) a bit confining esp when they get older.
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Not really an expert on barbs but i would double check if the cherry would nip the gourmi or betta. I forget - some of the barbs are very peaceful and some are famous at nipping.
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PSO loves to grow above the water line so if you have no jumpers let it grow out of the tank. Also it will produce a rather nice wildflower type bloom that last a good 3 weeks. I *think* you can actually pot it and grow as a pure terrestrial plant. It also seems to like light so the more the merrier.
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I have modestly soft water - gh 7 kh 3
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Yesterday i replaced the substrate in one of my 29. The old stuff had gotten foul and was producing a lot of gas - still a bit of a mess but will give it a couple of days to settle before cleaning up. Everyone has settle back in but the kuhli who haven't calmed down yet:
Tank is well established - about 18 months old well - before i replaced the substrate. The new stuff is a bit coarser so hopefully it will breath better. Gotta tell you those dwarf lilies develop massive root systems - put my sword plants to shame.
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1 hour ago, Daniel said:
Yes, I should say more. Many years ago I tried a no aeration method of hatching baby brine shrimp. At best I was able to achieve an 80% hatch rate and most of the time even less. Having each batch be 20 - 40% unhatched eggs was both time consuming and I didn't want my baby fish to consume unhatched brine shrimp eggs of which some always remained.
Then I graduated to a suspended 2L Coke bottle with an airstone and got much better results.
Eventually I found the system I currently use which consists of 3 cones in which I start a small batch of brine shrimp eggs every 12 hours.
Below is the very first video (speaking of anniversaries🙂) I ever posted to the forum back in July of last year:
It takes me about 2 1/2 minutes in the morning and about minutes 2 1/2 minutes in the evening to setup a fresh cone. What I get are easy to harvest (see video) just hatched baby brine shrimp at the peak of the their nutritional value when they are still mostly egg yolk. I can make batches off any size large or small and I never, ever get any unhatched eggs in what I feed my baby fish.
That is why I voted for the Ziss. I didn't care for the no aeration method but the Ziss is the most similar to what I currently do and is what I recommend.
Thank you for your comments. I can't give a hatch rate of the dish i linked but i can say that egg shell are not an issue because the bbs swim into the strainer - also a tiny pinch of eggs (about 1/6 of the scoup they provide) will produce more than enough bbs for 50 angel frys for the useful life (approx 2 1/2 days) of the bbs. Naturally if you put the bbs in the cooler it will last longer. The eggs include with the dish would likely last a year but of course it depends what you are feeding and how often - i was just using it to raise angel frys. The only advantage I see with the ziss is if you want to mass hatch bbs - not sure how long the bbs last in the cooler but i prefer to use fresh ones myself.
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36 minutes ago, Daniel said:
I vote for the Ziss.
It isn't really a vote - if you have used both then you should share your experience... as to why one works better than the other.
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If you are hatching bbs for frys I would recommend this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079C6BN2B
It has serveral advantages - you don't have to sep the bbs from the eggs; it produce plenty of bbs for a set of frys from one or two parents; it is easy to use. The thing is that the ziss unit looks much larger and designed for raising adult brine shrimp (which are too large for the frys) also you have to sep the shrimp from the eggs which mean you have to strain them.
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fyi: ppi is pores per inch.
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I was really happy when i took the effort to raise my baby angels. They look so funky as kids compare to adults:
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Depends - if you are putting it in the basement with concrete floor - sure go for it - if you are putting it in the living room will a catastrophic leak can cause $20,000 in water damage well.... why risk it ?
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Take a swim with your fishes !
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You can but it won't help much. I'm not sure why you think adding matrix will increase your nitrate. If you have 0 ammonia and nitrite then you've used up all the material required to produce nitrate....
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The prudent thing is to not get the cory but changes are pretty good things would be fine. Cory don't like confrontation so the smallest amount of poking by the rams will send them on their way. I tend to leave the room lights on when they breed so there is a little bit of incident light in the tank (i have dimable recess lighting in the room). One concern you should consider is which species of albino cory you purchase (there are several) as some can't handle the heat. Rams breed best with soft water (~70tds or lower) and the frys are quite small so you will need to consider how you will feed them...
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On 4/8/2021 at 4:51 AM, GardenStateGoldfish said:
To add to Cory's advice, make sure its also a coarse sponge, a fine sponge filter will clog and float quickly in an outdoor tub. But plants and algae will do most of the water quality stuff from my experience, the sponge is more there for aeration and mechanical
When people talk coarse and fine sponge it would be helpful to talk in terms of ppi - to remove ambiguity. I presume 20ppi would be fine - 30ppi is not too bad but most folks would consider that fine. I would think 10ppi would be too coarse for most people but these are my presumptions....
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The brown holes are typically potassium deficiency. Also for many of the micro nutrients a bit too much won't cause any harm (obviously an extreme overdose is bad for the fishes but they won't harm the plants or cause algae growth).
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One of my mystery snails crawled from 3 rooms away to the fridge and then sat there until i put it back in the tank.
I had a kili fish mysterously show up in a tank one day (probably from an egg on a new plant)
My angels strongly object to my cleaning their tank at times and have no problem expressing this displeasure with a nasty bite. The first time it happened well it caught me a bit off guard.
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I would think after the first year they will be room constrained. A full size discus can get up to 8 inches which doesn't leave a lot of room in a 40B due to lack of height. Also you said your water is 'perfect' but that seems a novice explanation of the quality of your water. There are a lot of factors beyond nitrate, nitrite and ammonia that determines the quality of the water and therefore i would question the 'perfect' nature of your water. Having said that it might turn out fine.
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Sounds like you have a standard 29. I think in the inexpensive department the common options are beamworks, hygger 957, finnex, fluval aqusavy (about 2x expensive). If you are willing to spend $$$ I'd recommend chihiros wrgb 2 or alternatively fluval 3.0. For medium light plants in a low tech tank I think the finnex, beamworks, hygger 957, ... will work fine and these lights are a lot less expensive - ~$50 vs $200....
From readings these inexpensive light have quality control issues and sometimes you will get a dud so buy from a place where it can be exchange or returned. The fluval 3.0 have a history of being extremely reliable but they are quite expensive for what they offer. I personally have wrgb2, fluvals and onf flat+ (not a good for for a 30 inch tank). I played with the less expensive fluvals and have not liked them - this is a visual thing as they lack the fuller spectrum range of the 3.0 but i prefer wrgb 2 over the 3.0 - again this is a visual thing though the wrgb 2 is also abut 1.5 brighter which works well on my 120.
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I would not raise the ph with baking soda - it is kind of pointless as long as the ph is above 6. Adding buffering maybe but not in the tank - the fishes don't like sudden changes in most cases (esp sa fishes which love soft acidic water) and adding baking soda to the tank has the potential to shock the fishes.
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If you want to mail order fishes one place that has relatively cheap shipping is aquahuna. Aquarium coop has a 5% off coupon on their page. I believe their shipping is $12 flat regardless of number of fishes you order. As for fake vs real plants. A lot of people use fake plants but i recommend live plants. If you want to give live plants a shot one thing would be to understand what type of water you have and what sort of lighting. There are these cheap flood lights you can use - they are a little ugly but they cost only $20 on amazon and work fairly well. Then if your water isn't too hard you could try some pso and frogbit. Another hardy plant is jungle val - anyway a bit depends on if your water is hard or soft. If you water is well water in new mexico it might have a lot of salt or mineral which would indeed make it more difficult to grow plants.