Fish Folk
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Posts posted by Fish Folk
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I think that unless you’re not seeing healthy growth, I would keep to the every-3 months standard.
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On 1/4/2024 at 1:14 PM, Tony s said:
Hi! Got myself in a bit of a pickle.
I had 6 juvenile angels in a 75g. community. ended up with 2 breeding pairs, which was fine for a year. mildly territorial until one of the females switched partners. Then that male who was peaceful, became something of a murder missile. unpaired angles are out of tank. Praecox are leaving. They even went so far as to push the other pair to the opposite side from where they had been laying their eggs for a year.
And then they promptly laid eggs on the fx2 canister intake (on the side of the grate). Have always been very nervous about removing the eggs. But have no choice at this point. As soon as they become wigglers, they're going to be toast.
Have an in-tank breeder box, but how do you safely move them.
Have only had a couple of batches of surface swimming fry. And am very sure the praecox had them for lunch. (another reason they had to change tanks). So how do I keep them alive and growing?
Can you disassemble the tubing? If you can drop that into a safe space, they’ll hatch in a few days, fall off, and you can put it back. It’s good if you can keep them in the same water they were spawned in.
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On 1/4/2024 at 1:25 PM, Odd Duck said:
Back in the days of early reef tanks before chillers became more common place, we used to use small apartment / dorm size mini refrigerators and run a stainless steel cooling coil through the wall of it and circulate tank water through the coil. You adjusted the refrigerator temp with the dial and if you needed more or less cooling than you could get with the dial, you added or removed coils in the fridge so the water spent more or less time inside the fridge as needed. You don’t even need to cut the coil, just reshape it and pull some outside the fridge. But more cooling (unlikely to need on a NANF tank where you’re already fairly close) you would need a longer or spliced cooling loop.
Where you would like to cool multiple tanks, this might not be such a bad idea. Amazon has one for just under $90.00 and I see they also have a stainless steel cooling coil for under $40.00. You could add more coils for more tanks. I don’t know of any chillers that could run multiple tanks unless they were on a shared water / filtration system. You would need a pump for each tank to run multiple coils and it might be a bit of a Tetris moment to get multiple coils into the fridge, but I’m sure it could be hooked into a canister filter system for each tank. You might even be able to acquire any cheap, used but functioning refrigerator if you have room by the tanks, and use it for a second fridge in the basement (ala mancave beer / soda fridge if you’re so inclined). As long as you weren’t particular exactly how cold your sodas are. 😆
I have been thinking about this now for more than a year. I am so glad to learn that other aquarists actually did it!
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That's great you keep a tank in your classroom! My son and I helped out a 5th Grade class several years ago set up a 20 gal long tank, and then a 33 gal long. It was a lot of fun! We made some videos . . . I'll try to find examples . . .
This one was the 20 long from 4x years ago...
And here was the 33 gal long from 3 years ago...
Depending on the filter you are using, you might find that the duckweed will not "stay put." You can buy an aqascaping net, and catch out most all of it if you want to. Otherwise, just wisk off a punch every few days to keep it from getting out of hand.
I do recommend a larger tank. Smaller tanks are much more chemically unstable than larger volumes of water. I'd say that a 20 gal long is a perfect tank size.
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Welcome to the CARE Forum! I like your tank. You'll get perspectives from all sorts of aquarists here. I'm more of a fish breeder than anything else, so my perspective is colored by that interest of mine.
Those caves look inviting. You might consider some Apistogramma agassizii. Let's see if I can find a nice photo of a double-red / super-red male...
Apistos love caves. That's what made it come to mind.
Tetras are always fun. You might also like a lively school of Rummynose Tetras...
There are a lot of cool Corydoras to choose from, so find one you rally like!
I think that a few bottom-dwellers, a nice full school of shoaling / schooling fish in the mid water column, and 1-3 major centerpiece fish is a full, balanced tank if everyone gets along.
There's an old rule of thumb: add 3x plants for every 1x fish. I'd love to see your entire tank loaded with plants, and then sprinkled with fun fish.
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It seems doable. Here’s a short write up helpful for a first-time keeper.
If I were setting this up from scratch, I would pour at least a 1/2 - 1 inch base layer of rinsed Oyster Shell beneath my substrate to enhance the water hardness and mineral content for the Crayfish exoskeleton.
You could also use Crushed Coral.
Then make a Garden of Eden for your little E-Blue. Loads and loads of plants, rock-work to explore, etc.
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On 1/3/2024 at 1:02 AM, AquaHobbyist123 said:
Sure thing, was waiting for it to upload. Alot of the rocks and sand were collected at the same location as the shiners.
That looks like a male Warpaint Shiner there guarding the rock hollow.
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On 1/3/2024 at 12:38 AM, AquaHobbyist123 said:
Well, I have one male ready to go! He's been guarding a spot between 2 rocks for a bit, pursuing too young and unready females that venture near.
Can you snap a few photos? or upload a YouTube video? I'm interested in seeing what the rock-work you've constructed looks like for them. Very excited for you!
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Rainbow Shiners, Southern Redbelly Dace, and Mountain Redbelly Dace — grow out tank & floating / flow-through trays…
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Little ones up close this evening…
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I think the only reasons would be (1) for aquarist's ease of feeding, and (b) possible benefits from a vitamin-enhanced dry food diet to make up for any deficiencies.
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This is the main stud… happy New Year!!!
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I always look for the white egg spot directly beneath the ventral fins to identify a female. That area is hidden in your photos. I’d guess it’s a male. Nice Koi!
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Little male tries dancing with the stars. Female takes off, and on the follow up, he meets a larger male…
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On 1/1/2024 at 5:11 AM, Chris turtlerouge said:
Ive a 40 gal tank. It needs cleaned out but do i clean it with vinegar to clean AND disinfect the tank before i start it back up?
Is this a tank you acquired? Or is this one you already have set up? What are your reasons for cleaning it, and / or disinfecting it? If this is a dry tank you recently acquired and if you are trying to clean surfaces, then cleaning vinegar will help to eliminate hard water marks, etc. It can be rinsed out with water then. Just take care not to harm the silicone seals. Now, if it is a tank badly troubled with disease, etc. then you may want to totally sanitize it. You can fill the bare tank with water, and then add several cups of Clorox Bleach and leave it up overnight. Then drain it completely, refill with water, and pour in an entire bottle of Prime (water treatment) and leave that up for 24 hours. Drain then, and dry out with paper towel and let stand empty for a few days to air-dry. Some folks skip the Prime step, and just allow any chlorox to evaporate out… I’m just paranoid. Anyway, when you start it back up, you are going to have to wait good and long before it’s properly cycled.
On 1/1/2024 at 5:11 AM, Chris turtlerouge said:i purchased a driftwood bonsai tree. Im suppose to boil it for 30 mins but tge problem is, ive nothing wide enough to put the "tree" in to kill the leechens. So, wjat is anorhet way to to kill the bad bacteria that may be left on the driftwood?
You can perform a similar process with this driftwood. Fill a bathtub, put the wood in, weight it down completely under water if necessary, and add loads of chlorox bleach. Let it sit overnight. Drain the water, refill the tub, and dump in a bottle of Prime. Let that sit overnight. Drain, and let the wood air dry outside for a day or two. My son and I have done this with stones and sea shells. Never a problem if you are patient.
On 1/1/2024 at 5:11 AM, Chris turtlerouge said:Ive approx 4 lbs of aquarium gravel that i have not yet cleaned and sanitized that i took out of this tank.
They are dry stones but wouldnt they have the good bacteria left on them as well as inside of the tank before i clean it?
No, if the stones are dry, the beneficial bacteria is no longer active. Same goes for the tank. If it is dry, the nitrifying bacteria is no longer alive. Only if still wet with tank water will there be anything that could possibly be maintained. But in that case, you do not want to “clean” or “sanitize” anything per say.
On 1/1/2024 at 5:11 AM, Chris turtlerouge said:Lastly, i ordered Eco Complete soil. I was thibking of adding alittle bit of sand in a different area that isnt covered by the EC soil could i mix the sand with the aquarium gravel to help filter water and roots better?
Eco complete is a soil we have used a lot. It is specifically designed to facilitate plant root development. In general, unless you pour a sand cap layer across soil, added sand on any sort of coarser / larger grained substrate will eventually just fall beneath it. With substrate, larger stones / grains / particles rise up… smaller ones fall beneath over time. Sand is not ideal for plant roots, IMHO.
On 1/1/2024 at 5:11 AM, Chris turtlerouge said:Lastly, my tank is 36" x 18" wide. Ive a full hood light. Should i get the full plant light spectrum colors or day and dusk florescent light or what should i get for light?
To make sure the front row of furture plants will get tge light tgey need plus, the other plants, should i put a hugger light up closer to the dront of tank and put my full hood closer to the back for the back row of plants?
Im planning on putting my lights on a timer, when are the best times to set my light timer?
A 40 gal is large enough to require an appropriate light to penetrate to the substrate to grow plants. Your description is a bit unclear… is there a built-in light in your “full hood” or are you setting LED lights up on the tank? This one is hard to answer without more details about your goals. If you have a glass top, I would personally recommend buying the $150 ACO Light designed for 36” tanks. It will be perfect. For a timer, just buy a cheap 24-hr timer to plug a light into. Set it up for a short 8-hr photo period first, once tons of plants are added. If ample plants will demand all of the available nutrients, algae growth will be minimized. Be sure to feed the plants with recommended dosage of liquid fertilizer. Some plants will appreciate root tabs. Generally speaking, before adding fish, you want to build a garden of eden first.
On 1/1/2024 at 5:11 AM, Chris turtlerouge said:When do i have to start daily water changes?
When should i add beneficial bacteria liquid into the water?
Don’t water change until you have the tank densely planted for a few weeks, and are ready to add fish. Beneficial bacteria (e.g. FritzZyme 7) can be added when you set up your tank, then when you add plants, and when you add fish. Eco Complete will have some bacteria to kick start the tank. Add extra air-stones. The bacteria you are cultivating is aerobic bacteria. More air, the better as the colonies kick off.
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Found the sane thing on a leaf of java fern last week. I am curious about it too!
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That's wonderful! Congratulations. Brichadri are a species I've never worked with before, but one of my LFS gets them in regularly. They are an elegant fish.
I have a rescue pair of Julidochromus marlieri that are _not_ spawning at all . . . I think they're a pair, due to size dimorphism. Perhaps they need tank mates to bring on spawning behavior.
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In the past, I've had problems with Val. But of late, I seem to have figured it out. I have it growing in all sorts of tanks, though not as equally well. I think that @Shadow has some extra Val on hand. Do you know what species of Val you're getting? I have has success with Valisneria americana (Jungle Val). My tanks have various pH parameters, but my water is soft. I add root tabs to start, but over time, just rely on decomposition in the substrate to fertilize. I keep it hot (86-F) and cold (60-F). In general, it seems to like a cooler tank. Adding an air-stone or two seems to help a bit . . . but that may just be anecdotal. I'm not really sure that pH is a determinative factor, but maybe I'm wrong.
Those Rummynose Tetras look amazing! Wow!! Very special fish. Beautiful scape too.
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This Computer Playback is actually excellent. It (ust goes for about 4.5 minutes. I am not sure why it's doubled in time with 2nd half silent playback.
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On 12/30/2023 at 11:23 PM, nickhalaban said:
Dear fish folk,
thanks for such a great feedback! It's the best comment in terms of technicallity, senselessnes and knoeledwgble (my god, such a difficult words I chose, sorry If I mispelled the word, Im from Argentina, spanish is my natural language).
on the matter of mussic, Any suggestion of some music tracks to work on for ocean-related footage (since it's a great niche because there is a lot of stock out there unlike other nature).
Thank you so much fot your freedback it's great and I'm glad you have enjoyed it
Also, this is a very personal favour I ask, could you please paste exactly the same comment (including the coral suggestion which is true) in my youtube video page? Please, you cannot imagine how great it would be, also, I'd really like to keep your comment at hand for years to come!
Thankss
I'd love to see you cut footage with Astor Piazzolla's "Oblivion" sometime. It is very moody . . .
I can no longer find my favorite string orchestra performance of it on YouTube. But there are many, many arrangements you can choose from.
It would be nice if you stayed with the music, and only edited video to match the music without audio cuts.
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Well done! I love art music. I thought there were some very effective cuts and transitions that aligned with the music well.
The Russian Dance theme (ca. 6 mins) probably could have been cut to a more lively animated sequence than the coral.
Keep going!
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On 12/30/2023 at 3:12 PM, doink said:
Ya...I read they won't breed which is good...more concerned about the female platy getting stressed...
Getting any female will probably help mitigate the attention, but I'm not wanting any fry. If I get female platys that...if they are pregnant will fry survive without my intervention? The owner said they would likely get eaten up
Fry would struggle to make it with predatory species in the community tank.
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He may chase, but fry will not come from them. She may be fertilized by a prior Platy tank-mate (females can carry milt a long while) and could drop fry delayed by months. But, Poecilia and Xiphophorus do not cross. Bear in mind that Mollies are in the same family and _can_ cross with Guppies. “Muppies” or “Gollies” the sterile hybrids are sometimes called.
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Ich. I recommend Ich-X as prescribed on the bottle. Beware blue will stain clothes.
Fish Tuberculosis Fears
in General Discussion
Posted
It is something to be aware of. One write up on it is this here.
Three keys: (1) chances of getting it are low (2) antibiotics typically are effective at eradicating it (3) if properly diagnosed, even at a more advanced stage it is treatable.