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BisScottie Non-Ya

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Posts posted by BisScottie Non-Ya

  1. 15 minutes ago, KBOzzie59 said:

    Live plants?  What type of filtration?

    Probably 19 more of each tetra.

     

    edit:  I have that same 60 gallon!  It's my "wide screen TV" without all the annoying commercials!

    Yeah! I have a bunch of plants. Stem plants of all sports, anubias, Java fern, pennywort, and more lol. I'm using a Bio-wheel 350 (the older version of the 375) 

    11 minutes ago, H.K.Luterman said:

    If the whiteskirt and the Glofish are the same sort of tetra, then I'd just add four more for a total of 6. That's usually the minimum advised for a shoal if you want to go VERY LOW stocking. 

    If they're different sorts of tetra, then add 5 of each to bring their numbers to 6. 

    But you could get away with much more, especially if you have a planted tank. 

    Awesome! Thank you for the advice! I have a bunch of plants xD EDIT: the white skirt and glofish are super similar in shape and size.

    10 minutes ago, egruttum said:

    My water department makes a pH of 9.3 (not sure of kH) to keep the Langelier Saturation index about 1.0.  Despite this my tanks run about 7.8 pH.  I let the water sit in a bucket for 24+ hours before I use it (unless it's an emergency).  Have you tried that with your water?

    Yep! I've tried that. Even added air and heat. 

    • Like 1
  2. I know this question has been asked 1,000 times so I apologize in advance, I just wanted to hear some opinions from like minded nerms.

     

    I have a 60 Gallon Tall (which is a weird tank, but I got a good deal on it) with 1 Angel, 1 White Skirt Tetra, and 1 Glofish Tetra. I have another Angel and Oto-cat in a QT Tank that I plan on adding eventually. My Tetras are pretty territorial and skidish. So I wanted to add more to make them more comfortable. How many more white skirts and glo tetras could I add to make them shoal together while keeping the tank slightly understocked (less frequent water changes)?

     

    I'm trying to keep the tank understocked because I have to get my water from the town over. The reason being.. my tap has a pH of 9 and a KH of 10 so its really hard to adjust/ I don't want to chase pH/ my fish are used to the other towns water. I've done a ton of research to find a better way but this is the only way that's affordable at the moment. 

     

    Thank you for your time! (Sorry for the bad formatting, I'm on mobile)

  3. I was wondering if it's possible to crush 'crushed coral' into a powder to increase surface area when trying to raise KH? I've had crushed coral in my tanks for a bit now and I can't seem to get my KH higher than a 2.

     

    Has anyone tried to do this before and if  so, what was the result? Also I assume that the dosing would be much smaller?

     

    I'd love to hear your thoughts on this,

    -BisScottie

  4. On 11/23/2020 at 9:16 AM, Joshua14 said:

    I've been there believe me. My tanks are mostly in a basement so I'm free for worry about damages. However I do get concerned about making them level as you are. I can tell you I have a 40 tall on cinder blocks and 2×4s no plywood and it's almost perfect but it's not 100% level. It's been set up and running for almost 3 years. And it appears to be going strong. I've also had tanks set up outside on the ground and never had an issue. They were definitely not level. 😅😂

    Yeah! Its hard since I'm living in my grandparent's basement and any damages caused I'll have to pay for. Which can get pretty expensive. Its actually a 60 gallon tall. Super weird right? Also the tank was made in 2011 so that worries me as well :/ 

  5. On 11/26/2020 at 2:22 PM, Tanked said:

    Thanks for the info on the lot numbers.   This might explain why my ammonia is always zero or less.

    Were all of the test results weird or just one type of test?

    I just measured the ph in my planted tank with an API kit that expired in 2001, one that will expire in 2024, and Tetra test strips.  The results (7.2) were close enough that I could not see a difference.  I repeated this in the community tank with similar results (6.6) The the test strips came out with lower numbers  at 6.8 (planted)  and 6.2 (community)  

    How do you measure your samples?

    I realized that there is more water in an API 5ml sample today than there was in 2000.  The lines on the vials are in different places!

    I also realized that my grocery store medicine doser may not be that accurate.

     

     

     

    I'll have to recheck it! I still have the old test kit. I'll have to do a side by side comparison if you're interested? I measured the dose according to the 5ml line. I might start using a medical grade needle to measure 5ml. My girlfriend is in nursing school so stuff like that is super easy it get (* ^ ω ^) 

    • Like 1
  6. 15 minutes ago, s1_ said:

    The idea of three disconnected points of contact is slightly scary because if one of the ends settle then half the tank will be cantilevered and the middle is not made to hold weight in that direction.

    That's a really good point. So here's my thought... remove the foam, keep the plywood, shim under the cinderblocks until the tank is true and level when its full? The foam stemmed from the yoga mat/corkboard idea that was brought up earlier, so I thought more might be better. lol 

  7. 1 minute ago, Joshua14 said:

    I would stay away from the foam all together. It's a recipe for disaster imo. If you are really concerned, why don't you throw a piece of plywood underneath the tank? Even if it isn't 100% get it as close as you can and fill it anyway. Wait a few days and check the level again. 

    There is still a piece of wood under the foam. It goes Tank - Foam - Plywood - Cinder Block.

  8. UPDATE: (I figured I would keep this thread going rather then make a new one) I decided to take some high density foam and place it underneath to "auto-level" and reduce pressure points. Here are some pictures of what it looks like halfway filled. Please pardon the mess :(

    KIMG0896.jpg.392a43d0af168c958af8a708a1483140.jpgKIMG0897.jpg.f38ec035018e9d844c87af0f9cfdd929.jpg

    KIMG0892.jpg.56f752ba2cf5021c274e31cd1385e3e4.jpg

    After filling I noticed that some of the foam is touching the bottom glass panel but I'm able to push down on it so I don't think its load bearing. Do you think this could cause an issue long term?

    KIMG0895.jpg.257806e355260ef768ce1ccb248a2923.jpg

    I decided to fill the rest after waiting 3 days without any leaks. I waited another week to confirm that the foam is working and the tank isn't leaking. No leaks were found and it leveled itself out perfectly! I'd like to thank everyone for their help again! @Cory @Ben Ellison @JRaffy

     KIMG0969.jpg.006a539bd5c34306d9bd130ba26d998a.jpg

    Here is where the tank will stay until I get some paint for the cinder blocks. I'll keep updating this thread until the tank is finished!

  9. 6 minutes ago, Cory said:

    Well typically when you put water in it, it levels out quite a bit. the cinder blocks typically have imperfections. They'll compress into the wood. This is one of those officially you should be 100% level. However in practice I've never had a problem personally in my fish room. 

    Thank you so much for clearing this up. This issue has been driving me insane lol. You have my eternal gratitude Cory!  

     

    (Edit: I'll be sure to thank you by doing what your signature says!)

  10. So I'm trying to make a fish tank stand using the concrete block method. I've tried using 2 x 4's on it and I just cut these pieces of plywood out to see if they'll be true. I know that all 4 corners need to be touching so it doesn't twist but no matter what I do I can still fit stuff underneath it. I've watched Co-Op's and Joey's videos on building one and this specific issue is never brought up. Can someone please help me figure this out and in return I will send you my eternal gratitude?KIMG0880.jpg.646076985a6b4d2fedf05e0b1318b319.jpgKIMG0878.jpg.c2882048999f7e7944af6a4911320393.jpgKIMG0881.jpg.045708ae2586f2f5b4d8c38a055b640b.jpgKIMG0877.jpg.d50c0c505459c4961d50652276e4adfc.jpgKIMG0876.jpg.f52ab4ebc569f4c42b7dad3418592be3.jpgKIMG0879.jpg.fdc3a818712a97e3c7c4cacce716381b.jpg

  11. 2 minutes ago, Cory said:

    Well if it proves anything, it's that test kits aren't required to keep aquariums. A lot of people get hung up on numbers instead of seeing what the fish are doing in the environment. It'll be good to know you'll have a reliable kit going forward though. 

    That's a really good point! Thanks for pointing out the silver lining :classic_smile:

    • Like 3
  12. On 11/1/2020 at 8:12 AM, AtomCatMatt said:

    Dollar per gallon sale starts today at petco, don’t forget to get your usb air pumps and sponge filters from @Cory at Aquarium CoOp!

    Thank you for letting me know! I ordered a 10 gallon quarantine tank 

    • Like 1
  13. I purchased a 60 gallon fish tank off of nextdoor a month or two ago and it came with a bunch of stuff including an API Freshwater Master Test Kit. They didn't have the expiration date (only a lot number) on them so I figured they were fine, but after a few months of testing (Also logging it on Google Sheets) I started to notice a ton of weird results. For example the pH test would be a different color every time I tested it. I decided to reach out to API to see if they were expired, this is what they said

    Quote

    Hello Scott,

     

    Thank you for contacting API Technical Services. We are sorry to hear about your experience. The last four digits of the lot number is the month and year it was manufactured.  All of those regents have a 5yr shelf life.  It looks like they were produced in 2011.  All of them would be considered expired and not yeilding accurate results. 

    So all of my water parameter data and diagnosing for the past few months is wrong because the API Master Test Kit I have is expired. I feel like such a fool, but I figured I'd share this will all of you so someone else doesn't go through this. 

    • Like 4
    • Sad 1
  14. 20 hours ago, Heather said:

    I use Google Sheets. Kind of a spreadsheet/db junky so the setup doesn’t bother me and I’m always tweaking it. Will probably use it as a model for a db at some point. Excel would work as well but I didn’t have it on my tablet when I started logging tanks and Sheets has worked out fine.

    I use one workbook per tank with sheets for water testing/changes, flora, fauna, hardscape, etc. and I keep a sheet in the back of my community tank workbook for periodic tests of my filtered tap. I’m good about recording the regular testing and changes but would probably be better about tracking observations with a paper notepad.  I kick myself because sometimes those observations are what I really wish I recorded - “Hmm, when did I first notice this and has it changed?” But I’m still such a noob that I worry I would go overboard recording minutiae - don’t have a fine tuned sense of what is important and what isn’t yet. 

    @BisScottieIt would be interesting to see the template you’re using if you have time to post a link. Thanks! : )

    Here it is! I made a copy of my original one. Let me know if you have an issues viewing it. @Heather

    rSmDv6TdqowJRrr9KYbVP_bKtDSuVtMI-8558z2O
    DOCS.GOOGLE.COM

    10 Gallon Date,Time,Temp (F),pH,High pH,Ammonia (NH3/NH4+),Nitrite (NO2-),Nitrate (NO3-),KH,GH,Water...

     

    • Thanks 1
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