Shaeff

@Odd Duck i realized that after I read the additional comments that were posted. I will need to stop bubthe local store to see what additional plants and protection i can find.

So I went with the mesh for now as it will give the female more room than a breeder box. I moved her now as she seemed aggressive but she is not that big yet so I do not know how long she will be there (little concern) until birth but may create stress with the other fish. @mynameisnobody i plan to sell/trade them with my local store. @Cinnebuns i would think with this set up it should be less stressful for her.

Is there a way to set up a divider within the tank to isolate her from the rest allowing her to relax? I am in a similar situation with my molly. She started to get aggressive but is not as big as yours.

Sounds like ill be stopping by JoAnne Fabrics / Michaels tomorrow. As always i appreciate the feedback everyone.

Hello all, My female dalmatian molly is pregnant (early stages as its been a week with a larger belly) and currently I do not have a quarantine / hospital tank established. I am limited with space and my current set up is a 10 gallon, so my thought is to go with an external HOB breeder box as anything inside would cut down the space. I would like to hear what your experiences with breeder boxes are and suggestions for one or would it just be better to invest in a 5 gallon tank and hope to cycle it intime?

Hello MarcoS, Amazon swords mainly feed from their roots so root tabs will be best for fertilization over liquid for the water column. It does look like it could be a combination of deficiencies so I included 2 images that helped me. To verify which one you can buy additional test beyond the standard strip/API master (potassium, phosphate etc). When making a correction / adjustment remember to take some time and small adjustments to not over correct or too fast causing a greater issue, best luck.

Hello GHC, For my 10g tank i have anubis (currently working to resolve a nitrogen deficiency), Italian vallisneria (which is doing well for only water column fertilizing) and newly added Java fern. I had some crypts but they died due to a lack of nutrients. At the moment i an rearranging the tank since items are not glued down (mystery snail keeps moving everything) to have the vallisneria populate across the back and then the anubis will be on the left for fish to swim under with the java fern on the right side for fish to swim in and out of.

Investigating this further i would agree 100% with nitrogen deficiency @JoeQ. Since it does not rub off we can rule out algae and using the charts below the old growth is not 100% yellow but still green which helps identify nitrogen over phosphate. I will fix the lighting at 10hours and dose easy green fertilizer twice a week testing every so often to track the progress. Ill try and report back in a week or two to show any improvements. I appreciate the input you both offered, thank you.

Sorry to hear that. If you work onsite perhaps look for one that is near by or on the way home. I did that and it helps get me excited for work just so i can stop by afterwards.

Hello all, Looking to get some guidance or direction on how to improve my anubias. At first i thought the brown on the edge was a phosphate deficiency but I tested the water and phosphates were high (~5-10ppm) and my tap water is (2ppm). Then i thought brown diatom algae but it doesn't rub off and the new growth doesn't have it. In the images the rhizome is placed on top of the gravel and there is a shell placed on the edge to weigh it down until the roots can keep it. Tank information: - 10 gallon community (4 months cycles) - Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate = 0 ppm - Fertilizer is easy green once a week, lights on 10-12 hours dialing back to 8-10