Ninjoma
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Posts posted by Ninjoma
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On 3/1/2023 at 10:41 AM, Ninjoma said:
I also don't like the nitrate test because it's difficult to tell the differences between the different shades of red for the 40-160ppm readings
On 3/1/2023 at 10:41 AM, Ninjoma said:Nitrates: I haven't found a test I like for this yet, but I will be trying the Salifert test soon.
I had an opportunity to use the Salifert test today, so I wanted to provide an update. I definitely think I like it better than the API test. Where the api test showed a terrifying bright red that I couldn't decipher, the Salifert test pretty clearly indicated my nitrates were around 50ppm (what I was aiming for).
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On 3/1/2023 at 11:51 AM, Schuyler said:
Other than using the liquid ammonia method to cycle a tank when do you need more than just a true or false for ammonia? Either there isn't ammonia (good) or there isn't (bad).
Basically very low ammonia readings, like 0.5ppm or less, especially in low temperature and low PH tanks suggest non toxious levels of NH3. I personally don't take any action when this is the case. When ammonia levels are around 1ppm, I like to detoxify the ammonia with Fritz complete. Higher ammonia levels above 2ppm, I always do at least a partial water change.
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That looks correct to me. 1 pump is 1ml and the dose for 10g. So 0.5ml should be the dose for 5g.
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I agree. I don't like the PH tests, because my PH is usually between the high range and low range tests. I also don't like the nitrate test because it's difficult to tell the differences between the different shades of red for the 40-160ppm readings. The nitrite test is fine, but it is much faster, easier and cost effective to use test strips. I do like the ammonia test however because I've never been able to read ammonia test strips accurately. Other important parameters aren't included in the master test kit.
My preferred tests to use in most cases are the API liquid ammonia test, and the ACO multi test strips.
If I want a 2nd opinion for piece of mind, or want more specific results, I use the following:
-Ammonia: API liquid test
-Nitrite: API liquid test
-Nitrates: I haven't found a test I like for this yet, but I will be trying the Salifert test soon.
-PH: Sera liquid test
-GH: Sera liquid test
-KH: API liquid test-
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With hikari freeze dried brine shrimp and spirulina brine shrimp, I crush the cubes with my fingers, so they turn into crumbs/ powder and then my HOB blows them around and they get mixed into the middle of the water.
With the ACO tubifex worms, I hold the cubes with my tweezers in the middle of the tank and shake it back and forth until all the worms separate out.
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Buce is awesome on driftwood (kedakang is my favorite.) Anubias Nana petite is just as beautiful on driftwood IMO and generally much cheaper. Java moss is another great option.
For behind the driftwood you could attach Java fern to the back of the driftwood, so it occupies that space. You could also do an easy to grow stem plant like water sprite (my favorite) or Pogostemon Stellatus Octopus.
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On 2/27/2023 at 10:09 PM, Ridwaan98 said:
Hey
Yes so I did something very stupid before bringing them. I basically rinsed all my filter media from my fx6 under tap water. Ammonia is around 1-2ppm
I would do a 50% water change and then add a 2x dose of seachem prime or fritz complete to detoxify the remaining ammonia.
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The first step is figuring out what is causing your fish to be stressed. Have you already tested for amonia, nitrites, PH, chlorine and water temperature?
Have you added an air stone in case the issue is with oxygen?
Once you have removed the stressers from the tank that is causing the Fish to get sick, I would treat them with Maracyn for the fin rot and potentially Ich-x if you think they have a fungal infection as well.
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On 2/25/2023 at 10:06 PM, Elyse Douglas said:
@Ninjoma oh I was unaware of this; I have an electric blue acara, rainbowfish, panda corys, panda garra and a blue phantom pleco in this tank. Will they be okay with a ph that high? I was always told that ph of 7 is the best
I haven't personally kept any of those fish, but most fish in the trade are pretty adaptable to PH. Your PH of 7.3-7.4 is pretty close to neutral, so I would expect it to be fine for any commonly kept freshwater fish.
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One tank idea I've thought about a lot, is having a 75g with like 100-200 ember tetra and an electric blue crayfish.
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Mine usually levels out around 7.5 with crushed coral. I think it can theoretically go as high as 8.2 if you add enough.
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I've never noticed spoiled food impact my fish negatively. But I only keep food for about 6 months after opening.
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I think I agree with otos being the best. My honorable mentions go to reticulated hillstream loaches and bristelnose plecos. Mystery snails are also decent.
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-German Blue Ram
-Some kind of turtle in a community tank
-Fiddler crab/ other medium sized crab
-Electric blue crayfish
-Vampire shrimp/ other large shrimp
-Lots of different corys: Orange Venezuelan, sterbai, emeral, juli, adolfo
-pictus catfish
-Dojo loach
-dwarf chain loach
-Apple snail (the big ones that eat plants)
-Red phantom tetra
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Here is my 10g
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I got a few flagfish to help with algae. Then I took this photo of two snails sitting on a leaf:
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You'll want to double check water parameters, since my water is closer to 7.5ph & 7dGH, but I've had success with the following small peaceful animals on similar substrates:
For Algae:
-Reticulated hillstream loach
-Nerite snails/mystery snails/ramshorn snails/rabbit snails/devil spike snails
-Bristelnose pleco
-Amano shrimp
-I keep my otos with a sand substrate, but they mostly graze off glass and plants, so I think they would be okay with those substrates.
-I haven't kept American flagfish, but they are another species you could consider.For other animals that don't necessarily eat algae, but will help scavenge your substrate:
-Corys
-CPO crayfish
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I added some crypts to the background of my 40g.
I also changed my background plants slightly and added some Vietnam to the midground in my 75g.
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I keep mystery snails in several tanks with sand mixed with crushed coral and haven't had any issues. I prefer to put the crushed coral in a filter media bag in my HOB filter though. Then I don't have to worry about it.
I think with live bearers you can kinda keep them with any bottom dwellers you want. I have corys + bristelnose plecos in my swordtail tank and khuli loaches + otos in my platy tank.
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I love this community tank. I was considering trying something similar, but decided against it due to fears of the turtle killing fish. I'm glad to see if can work well long term.
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I have all sorts of nerite snails. Zebras, red racers, king koopas, sun thorns, olive horned, black, three-color horned.
The smaller ones (sun thorn, three-color horned) seem to be the most active. They are always moving and munching on algae. Red racers and maybe zebras seem the most active of the larger ones. Black and king Koopa seem to be inactive most of the time. I don't have an opinion on the olive horned one yet.
I haven't seen nerite snails go after algae wafers or other fish food, they mostly seem to graze on glass and maybe plants. I think the more active species are the 2nd best algae cleaners after mystery snails. Mystery snails are bigger, hardier and more active, so they eat more. I think nerite snails are better than rabbit snails and devil spike snails and about the same as pagoda snails and Japanese trapdoor snails in my experience.
I'm 0% confident in my analysis.
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I haven't used too many different filters, but the aquaclear HOBs are my favorite. I like having a large filter media area so I can add whatever I need depending on the situation.
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On 2/12/2023 at 5:27 AM, Theplatymaster said:
1.do you have one?
Yes
2.If yes How Many
Three, but I've only been to the two closest ones.
3.If yes how far away
Two of them are about 15 minutes away on public transportation. The other is about 25 minutes away on public transportation.
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Think I just about finished the overhaul of my 10g and I really like it now!
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Black neon fail.
in General Discussion
Posted
I had a somewhat similar experience with black skirt tetras. They would be terratorial with the center of the tank and nip eachother. There was a decent amount of fin damage on a few of them, and one ended up with a massive gash on it's side. Luckily I had no fatalities. Eventually I caught them terrorizing my mystery snails and that was the final straw for me and I returned them. I had previously been interested in red phantom and Serpae tetras, but I am much more reluctant to try them after my experience with the black skirts.