Aerate/Circulation In Quarantine Tank?

[Garavar]

So I read the Aquarium Co Op Quarantine setup guide and I am going leave second sponge filter in my established tank and move it to QT when I need to quarantine new fish or sick fish. But what about aeration and water circulation?

1) Should I buy an Aquarium Co Op water pump and tubing for the sponge filter? Or is there a cheaper alternative? The QT is 10 gallons.

2) When I have a sick fish and move the sponge filter should take some of the water from the established tank or just put all new water?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Fish Folk]

On 9/1/2024 at 2:16 PM, Garavar said:

So I read the Aquarium Co Op Quarantine setup guide and I am going leave second sponge filter in my established tank and move it to QT when I need to quarantine new fish or sick fish. But what about aeration and water circulation?

1) Should I buy an Aquarium Co Op water pump and tubing for the sponge filter? Or is there a cheaper alternative? The QT is 10 gallons.

2) When I have a sick fish and move the sponge filter should take some of the water from the established tank or just put all new water?

Thanks in advance.

 

There may be some concern about introducing illness to a QT tank if you use tank water.

Technically, moving a sponge filter over and using treated tap water should be Ok.

But if you’re using a broad spectrum antibiotic to treat sick fish, that _might_ knock out your beneficial bacteria colonies in a small QT tank. 

I recommend just setting up a permanent QT tank. Move in a permanent, primed sponge filter. Start off with healthy tank water. Buy and wash a pile of lava rocks, put an airstone underneath the pile, drawing water through the pile. Extra beneficial bacteria will build up. 

[Garavar]

On 9/1/2024 at 4:37 PM, Fish Folk said:

There may be some concern about introducing illness to a QT tank if you use tank water.

Technically, moving a sponge filter over and using treated tap water should be Ok.

But if you’re using a broad spectrum antibiotic to treat sick fish, that _might_ knock out your beneficial bacteria colonies in a small QT tank. 

I recommend just setting up a permanent QT tank. Move in a permanent, primed sponge filter. Start off with healthy tank water. Buy and wash a pile of lava rocks, put an airstone underneath the pile, drawing water through the pile. Extra beneficial bacteria will build up. 

I would gladly leave a permanent QT but how would it work without fish in it?

[Fish Folk]

From our brave new world of AI… 

[Garavar]

On 9/1/2024 at 7:03 PM, Fish Folk said:

From our brave new world of AI… 

Funny I googled and got the same answer but I ignored it because after watching every Terminator movie, including that pile of crap called Terminator Dark Fate, I have a deep mistrust for AI so I was seeking a human response.

I was thinking I keep the QT cycles by just adding shrimp to it and when I have a sick fish that needs medication move the shrimp to the established tank. Then move them back to QT when I am done. No idea.

[Fish Folk]

I would just swap the sponge with one from an established tank whenever you need to QT fish.

[Garavar]

On 9/1/2024 at 8:47 PM, Fish Folk said:

I would just swap the sponge with one from an established tank whenever you need to QT fish.

Yeah that's what I did but someone recommended leaving QT always running so I was wondering if there was cheaper alternative than buying another Aquarium Co Op Air Pump for water movement.

[Airborne 82nd]

You will need another pump anyway this QT will be running for weeks. Bring as much water from your display tank as you can and it will be good to go in no time. You want the QT water to match your display tank so when you move the new fish over the only thing it has to deal with is new decor and swim buddies. Any brand air pump will do but if you get the same size as the one you have now you can use it later as a backup if the first one breaks. I run backup filters heaters air pumps everything but a light.