Can leaves recover from nutrient deficiencies or are they worthless?

[TwoFace99]

Hello, since almost two weeks ago (March 16), I’ve been dosing Seachem flourish phosphorus to increase the phosphate levels of my aquarium (It is at 1.0 mg/L) on the advice of Aquarium Co-Op support. 

I did this course of action because my Water Wisteria and Java Fern were having both their old and new leaves turning yellow/pale with brown patches, with some of them turning almost completely brown or black, but it became widespread amongst my other plants (Swords/Crypts/Bucephalandra/etc). 
I even grabbed and started dosing Easy Iron off my LFS’ suggestion this past Monday. 
At the moment, I have pruned a lot of leaves off my plants that looked too far gone and threw away a couple of them. Some of them like my Water Wisteria and Java Fern still have leaves with a couple of brown patches, but nothing as bad as they used to look. Additionally, I noticed the diatom algae that used to be consistently present are almost nonexistent on the glass of the tank now (the Panda Garra I acquired on Monday possibly helped as well). 

My main concern now is whether or not the leaves of these plants in my photos attached can be saved, or should I cut my losses? My Cryptocorne Tropica, especially has been experiencing more blackening of its leaves since my phosphate/iron dosing. 
 

Water parameters:

pH: 7.8

Ammonia: 0ppm

Nitrite: 0ppm

Nirate: 20ppm

KH: 5dKH

GH: 10dGH 

Phosphate level: 1.0mg/L 

Easy Green/Iron dosing (weekly), Wonder shells (calcium supplement), and Seachem Flourish Phosphate dosing (as needed). 

[Pepere]

I think by and large the leaves themselves are unlikely to recover.  The plant very well might recover.  Plants seem to prioritize new growth optimized for growing conditions as opposed to repairing existing leaves.

Edited March 29 by Pepere

[Seattle_Aquarist]

On 3/29/2024 at 1:24 PM, TwoFace99 said:

Hello, since almost two weeks ago (March 16), I’ve been dosing Seachem flourish phosphorus to increase the phosphate levels of my aquarium (It is at 1.0 mg/L) on the advice of Aquarium Co-Op support. 

I did this course of action because my Water Wisteria and Java Fern were having both their old and new leaves turning yellow/pale with brown patches, with some of them turning almost completely brown or black, but it became widespread amongst my other plants (Swords/Crypts/Bucephalandra/etc). 
I even grabbed and started dosing Easy Iron off my LFS’ suggestion this past Monday. 
At the moment, I have pruned a lot of leaves off my plants that looked too far gone and threw away a couple of them. Some of them like my Water Wisteria and Java Fern still have leaves with a couple of brown patches, but nothing as bad as they used to look. Additionally, I noticed the diatom algae that used to be consistently present are almost nonexistent on the glass of the tank now (the Panda Garra I acquired on Monday possibly helped as well). 

My main concern now is whether or not the leaves of these plants in my photos attached can be saved, or should I cut my losses? My Cryptocorne Tropica, especially has been experiencing more blackening of its leaves since my phosphate/iron dosing. 
 

Water parameters:

pH: 7.8

Ammonia: 0ppm

Nitrite: 0ppm

Nirate: 20ppm

KH: 5dKH

GH: 10dGH 

Phosphate level: 1.0mg/L 

Easy Green/Iron dosing (weekly), Wonder shells (calcium supplement), and Seachem Flourish Phosphate dosing (as needed). 

 

 

 

 

Hi @TwoFace99,

Question, why are you using Wonder Shells as a calcium supplement?
 -Roy

[TwoFace99]

On 3/29/2024 at 9:05 PM, Seattle_Aquarist said:

Hi @TwoFace99,

Question, why are you using Wonder Shells as a calcium supplement?
 -Roy

Because a few months ago, my Banana plants’ leaves were coming out extremely gnarly and twisted with stunted growth, so I was advised by Aquarium Co-Op to use Wonder shells or other calcium-supplement products. Wonder shells definitely helped with the Banana plants, so I can’t argue the results. 

[TwoFace99]

On 3/29/2024 at 5:41 PM, Pepere said:

I think by and large the leaves themselves are unlikely to recover.  The plant very well might recover.  Plants seem to prioritize new growth optimized for growing conditions as opposed to repairing existing leaves.

That’s unfortunate as I was hoping that wasn’t going to be the answer with my Cyprtocorne Tropica and Java Fern. The Tropica plant, because it’s going to lose ALOT more leaves than I have trimmed off already, and some of the younger Java Fern (that has spawned from my original Java Fern) are already down to one or two leaves on their rhizomes. However, it makes sense. 

[Seattle_Aquarist]

Hi @TwoFace99  Did anyone ever mention the calcium-magnesium ratio (Ca:Mg) during that discussion?  Since you were at Aquarium Coop I assume you live here in the Seattle area as I do.  Seattle water (both Tolt and Cedar River) is very, very soft with minimal minerals including calcium and magnesium which are considered as secondary nutrients.  The folks at Co-op were correct that insufficient available calcium will indeed cause plant leaves that do not form properly.  Common symptoms are: "Margins of young leaves are scalloped and abnormally green and, due to inhibition of cell wall formation, the leaf tips may be "gelatinous" and stuck together inhibiting leaf unfolding. Stem structure is weak and peduncle collapse or shoot topple may occur.".  I like to use Nymphoides hydrophylla (aka "sp. Taiwan") as an indicator plant in my tanks because it is typically the first to show calcium related issues.  BTW, Banana Plants (Nymphoides aquatica) are a related species.

What apparently was not shared it the recommended ratio of calcium to magnesium that is suggested for healthy plant growth.  Typically a Ca:Mg ratio range of 3:1 - 4:1 is recommended for healthy plant growth.  Many of us that grow plants in the local aquarium club, the Greater Seattle Aquarium Society, add both calcium and magnesium to our tanks to minimize growth problems.  Many use Seachem Equilibrium in their tanks which has a 3.3:1 calcium magnesium ratio.  Others of us add calcium and magnesium when we do our weekly water changes.  With a dGH of 5.0 you have gobs of calcium in your tank but I suspect minimal (if any) magnesium.  What leads me to suspect that insufficient available magnesium is the issue with your plants?  I downloaded a couple of your pictures, enlarged and enhanced them, and noticed 'cupping' of the older leaves not only in the Wisteria but also the Cryptocoryne.  Insufficient magnesium causes: "Chlorosis (yellowing) along leaf margins extending between veins produces a "Christmas tree" pattern. Veins normal green. Leaf margins may curl downward or upward with puckering effect. Necrosis may suddenly occur between veins. Potassium or calcium excess can inhibit uptake of magnesium"

Look at the photo below see how the leaves emerge looking relatively healthy and plant (#1).  Then as the leaves mature the margins are curling under causing the leaf to curl downward (#2).  Lastly as the leaf matures further the margins are even more curled under (#3).

Now nothing is going to change any of the existing leaves.  If it were my tank I would 1) remove the Wonder Shells;   2) do 50% water changes twice over the next four days to decrease the concentration of calcium in the tank;  and 3) start dosing Seachem Equilibrium to add the needed calcium and magnesium.  How much Equilibrium?  Enough to bring you dGH up to about 4.0.  Over the next four weeks you should see an improvement in the new leaves as they emerge and mature. (Remember....existing leaves will not change).  To deal with diatoms I use Otocinclus catfish in all my tanks....they eat diatoms like it is candy.  One per 10 gallons will clean up a tank in a couple of weeks.  Hope this helps! -Roy

[TwoFace99]

On 3/30/2024 at 12:23 AM, Seattle_Aquarist said:

Hi @TwoFace99  Did anyone ever mention the calcium-magnesium ratio (Ca:Mg) during that discussion?  Since you were at Aquarium Coop I assume you live here in the Seattle area as I do.  Seattle water (both Tolt and Cedar River) is very, very soft with minimal minerals including calcium and magnesium which are considered as secondary nutrients.  The folks at Co-op were correct that insufficient available calcium will indeed cause plant leaves that do not form properly.  Common symptoms are: "Margins of young leaves are scalloped and abnormally green and, due to inhibition of cell wall formation, the leaf tips may be "gelatinous" and stuck together inhibiting leaf unfolding. Stem structure is weak and peduncle collapse or shoot topple may occur.".  I like to use Nymphoides hydrophylla (aka "sp. Taiwan") as an indicator plant in my tanks because it is typically the first to show calcium related issues.  BTW, Banana Plants (Nymphoides aquatica) are a related species.

What apparently was not shared it the recommended ratio of calcium to magnesium that is suggested for healthy plant growth.  Typically a Ca:Mg ratio range of 3:1 - 4:1 is recommended for healthy plant growth.  Many of us that grow plants in the local aquarium club, the Greater Seattle Aquarium Society, add both calcium and magnesium to our tanks to minimize growth problems.  Many use Seachem Equilibrium in their tanks which has a 3.3:1 calcium magnesium ratio.  Others of us add calcium and magnesium when we do our weekly water changes.  With a dGH of 5.0 you have gobs of calcium in your tank but I suspect minimal (if any) magnesium.  What leads me to suspect that insufficient available magnesium is the issue with your plants?  I downloaded a couple of your pictures, enlarged and enhanced them, and noticed 'cupping' of the older leaves not only in the Wisteria but also the Cryptocoryne.  Insufficient magnesium causes: "Chlorosis (yellowing) along leaf margins extending between veins produces a "Christmas tree" pattern. Veins normal green. Leaf margins may curl downward or upward with puckering effect. Necrosis may suddenly occur between veins. Potassium or calcium excess can inhibit uptake of magnesium"

Look at the photo below see how the leaves emerge looking relatively healthy and plant (#1).  Then as the leaves mature the margins are curling under causing the leaf to curl downward (#2).  Lastly as the leaf matures further the margins are even more curled under (#3).

Now nothing is going to change any of the existing leaves.  If it were my tank I would 1) remove the Wonder Shells;   2) do 50% water changes twice over the next four days to decrease the concentration of calcium in the tank;  and 3) start dosing Seachem Equilibrium to add the needed calcium and magnesium.  How much Equilibrium?  Enough to bring you dGH up to about 4.0.  Over the next four weeks you should see an improvement in the new leaves as they emerge and mature. (Remember....existing leaves will not change).  To deal with diatoms I use Otocinclus catfish in all my tanks....they eat diatoms like it is candy.  One per 10 gallons will clean up a tank in a couple of weeks.  Hope this helps! -Roy

My mistake. I meant Aquarium Co-Op customer support. I live in Chicago where the water is very hard, instead of soft. They did suggest besides the obvious phosphate issue my plants were dealing with the next likely nutrient deficiencies could be either iron or magnesium. I did buy some Easy Iron this past Monday (6 squirts since the tank is a 55 gallon). 

As for Magnesium, that makes sense, since I just got done earlier removing some Water Wisteria leaves that were curling downward. My GH is currently at 10 dkGH. Are you asking me to raise my GH up 4 degrees with the usage of Equilibrium, and can I add the product directly to the tank, or must I perform a water change first? 

As for the diatom it is pretty much gone now, except for a few specks. I’m not sure if the plants were able to outcompete with the algae/diatom in the nutrient uptake with the phosphorus boost, but I’m not sure, but I’m not complaining either. Lol. 

Edited March 30 by TwoFace99

[Pepere]

On 3/30/2024 at 1:23 AM, Seattle_Aquarist said:

Did anyone ever mention the calcium-magnesium ratio (Ca:Mg) during that discussion? 

Excellent write up Roy..  the Magnesium issue is 1  reason I don’t follow the adding crushed coral to deal with soft water mantra so prevalent in the hobby. Crushed coral only adds calcium and carbonates, and your levels are constantly in flux, plummeting with a deep water change and rising from there…

dosing Equilibrium, or calcium and mgnesium salts gives you a predictable level of calcium and magnesium that can be extremely close to the water being taken out…. Plants reprogram their leaves to optimize for the soup they are being served.  A fair amount of energy and resources are used to reprogram.  Stable levels allows the plant to use that energy and resources for plant growth and defending against algae instead…

[Seattle_Aquarist]

On 3/30/2024 at 2:51 AM, Pepere said:

Excellent write up Roy..  the Magnesium issue is 1  reason I don’t follow the adding crushed coral to deal with soft water mantra so prevalent in the hobby. Crushed coral only adds calcium and carbonates, and your levels are constantly in flux, plummeting with a deep water change and rising from there…

dosing Equilibrium, or calcium and magnesium salts gives you a predictable level of calcium and magnesium that can be extremely close to the water being taken out…. Plants reprogram their leaves to optimize for the soup they are being served.  A fair amount of energy and resources are used to reprogram.  Stable levels allows the plant to use that energy and resources for plant growth and defending against algae instead…

You are absolutely correct @Pepere.  I wrile against those that recommend adding crushed coral to a tank or filter.  The quantity and rate that dissolves is typically an unknown and it's use results in easily overdosing calcium; making very difficult to bring a tank into balance.  In addition it increases the pH resulting in the breaking of chelate bonds in most iron fertilizers causing iron deficiency issues.  I personally use calcium salts and magnesium salts to increase the dGH and levels of those nutrients in my tanks.....much cheaper than Equilibrium when you have many and/or large tanks. -Roy

[Seattle_Aquarist]

On 3/30/2024 at 12:23 AM, TwoFace99 said:

My mistake. I meant Aquarium Co-Op customer support. I live in Chicago where the water is very hard, instead of soft. They did suggest besides the obvious phosphate issue my plants were dealing with the next likely nutrient deficiencies could be either iron or magnesium. I did buy some Easy Iron this past Monday (6 squirts since the tank is a 55 gallon). 

As for Magnesium, that makes sense, since I just got done earlier removing some Water Wisteria leaves that were curling downward. My GH is currently at 10 dkGH. Are you asking me to raise my GH up 4 degrees with the usage of Equilibrium, and can I add the product directly to the tank, or must I perform a water change first? 

As for the diatom it is pretty much gone now, except for a few specks. I’m not sure if the plants were able to outcompete with the algae/diatom in the nutrient uptake with the phosphorus boost, but I’m not sure, but I’m not complaining either. Lol. 

Hi @TwoFace99,

Are you saying the water out of the tap comes out at 10 dGH or that is the dGH of the tank with the Wonder Shell usage?  I was born in Chicago, grew up in St. Louis, and moved to Seattle in 1977.  According to the Chicago Water Department Comprehensive Analysis  the water is usually about 35 mg/l or 35 ppm calcium and about 11 ppm magnesium or about 2.7 dGH which is soft.  The water for Chicago comes out of Lake Michigan and is very constant throughout the year.  If you are outside the area that uses Chicago water check with your local water utility and get their water analysis.  Many municipalities have well water and since most of the Midwest bedrock is limestone their water may be harder.  I check the chemical water analysis of local utility at least twice a year spring and fall at the end of 'wet season' and "dry season" since that effects mineral concentration.

The pH of 7.8 is likely effecting the uptake of iron in your tank as well (see chart below).  Check out other posts I have done regarding iron uptake, pH, and chelates. Hope this helps!  -Roy

Edited March 30 by Seattle_Aquarist

[TwoFace99]

On 3/30/2024 at 9:19 AM, Seattle_Aquarist said:

Hi @TwoFace99,

Are you saying the water out of the tap comes out at 10 dGH or that is the dGH of the tank with the Wonder Shell usage?  I was born in Chicago, grew up in St. Louis, and moved to Seattle in 1977.  According to the Chicago Water Department Comprehensive Analysis  the water is usually about 35 mg/l or 35 ppm calcium and about 11 ppm magnesium or about 2.7 dGH which is soft.  The water for Chicago comes out of Lake Michigan and is very constant throughout the year.  If you are outside the area that uses Chicago water check with your local water utility and get their water analysis.  Many municipalities have well water and since most of the Midwest bedrock is limestone their water may be harder.  I check the chemical water analysis of local utility at least twice a year spring and fall at the end of 'wet season' and "dry season" since that effects mineral concentration.

The pH of 7.8 is likely effecting the uptake of iron in your tank as well (see chart below).  Check out other posts I have done regarding iron uptake, pH, and chelates. Hope this helps!  -Roy

I’m referring to my aquarium water being 10-11dGH with the Wonder Shell usage. Without the Wonder shell, it stays at 10dGH, but for how long, I never truly tested. 
My tap water itself is 12dGH (last time I tested was 8dGH). 
Additionally, I didn’t realize iron uptake by plants is reduced at higher pH levels. Interesting. 

[TwoFace99]

@Seattle_Aquarist Also, I know you recommended Seachem Equilibrium, but since I am having only a Magnesium deficiency, would you advise in my case to get just magnesium salts like you or get Equilibrium to correct the Ca:Mg:K ratio of my aquarium, in addition to increasing magnesium content? 
Additionally, I didn’t really find any straightforward directions online, if I should keep dosing Equilibrium every water change or simply until the magnesium deficiency is no longer present in my aquarium (ex: My Water Wisteria no longer curl downward with no paleness to their coloring). 
Lastly, I didn’t know Magnesium was vital in the absorption of Phosphorus for plants. I hope that doesn’t mean my dosing of Phosphate was being wasted, since my plants were suffering from low Magnesium levels in the water. 

[Seattle_Aquarist]

On 3/30/2024 at 1:35 PM, TwoFace99 said:

@Seattle_Aquarist Also, I know you recommended Seachem Equilibrium, but since I am having only a Magnesium deficiency, would you advise in my case to get just magnesium salts like you or get Equilibrium to correct the Ca:Mg:K ratio of my aquarium, in addition to increasing magnesium content? 
Additionally, I didn’t really find any straightforward directions online, if I should keep dosing Equilibrium every water change or simply until the magnesium deficiency is no longer present in my aquarium (ex: My Water Wisteria no longer curl downward with no paleness to their coloring). 
Lastly, I didn’t know Magnesium was vital in the absorption of Phosphorus for plants. I hope that doesn’t mean my dosing of Phosphate was being wasted, since my plants were suffering from low Magnesium levels in the water. 

Hi @TwoFace99,  If it were me I would do the two (2) 50% water changes over the next few days, that should get you down to close to whatever dGH you have coming out of the tap and hopefully lower you pH as well.  Then I would dose sufficient Equilibrium to increase the dGH by increase the dGH by 3.0 dGH to start.  How much to dose?  1.5 teaspoons of Equilibrium per 10 gallons will increase the dGH by approximately 3.0 degrees (3.0 dGH) and increase the available calcium by about 16 ppm and available magnesium by about 4.8 ppm.  Hope this helps! -Roy

[TwoFace99]

On 3/30/2024 at 4:51 PM, Seattle_Aquarist said:

Hi @TwoFace99,  If it were me I would do the two (2) 50% water changes over the next few days, that should get you down to close to whatever dGH you have coming out of the tap and hopefully lower you pH as well.  Then I would dose sufficient Equilibrium to increase the dGH by increase the dGH by 3.0 dGH to start.  How much to dose?  1.5 teaspoons of Equilibrium per 10 gallons will increase the dGH by approximately 3.0 degrees (3.0 dGH) and increase the available calcium by about 16 ppm and available magnesium by about 4.8 ppm.  Hope this helps! -Roy

That makes sense. However, my pH is pretty hard stuck at 7.8 (KH is consistently at 5-6dKH), and my GH for my tap water is higher than my aquarium water (12dGH compared to 10dGH), so do I still try to lower my PH/GH or just work with what I have with your plan?
 

Lastly, do you have any good test kit recommendations for Calcium and/or Magnesium? I see that Fluval has test kits for Calcium as well as Iron. 

Edited March 30 by TwoFace99

[Seattle_Aquarist]

Hi @TwoFace99,  I used to test a bunch of different parameters: pH, dKH, dGH, phosphate, iron, etc.  But I've been doing planted tanks for 16 years now and usually all I test about once a month is pH, dKH, and dGH and occasionally calcium.  I've tested using several brands but now I use API pH, and API GH & KH combo kit, and Salifert Calcium Test Kit.  I've checked the API test kits against calibrated solutions and are are accurate enough for aquarium use.  BTW, with a dGH reading and a calcium ppm reading you can compute the magnesium ppm level.

If you have a large tank, or many smaller tanks, Seachem Equilibrium can become expensive.  After you get things under control I can offer some suggestions as to how to use calcium sulfate and magnesium sulfate to deal with low dGH using 'salts'.  BTW, when I downloaded, enhanced, and enlarged your photos the most likely issue causing the interveinal chlorosis in your older leaves is insufficient available magnesium.  -Roy

[TwoFace99]

On 3/30/2024 at 6:04 PM, Seattle_Aquarist said:

Hi @TwoFace99,  I used to test a bunch of different parameters: pH, dKH, dGH, phosphate, iron, etc.  But I've been doing planted tanks for 16 years now and usually all I test about once a month is pH, dKH, and dGH and occasionally calcium.  I've tested using several brands but now I use API pH, and API GH & KH combo kit, and Salifert Calcium Test Kit.  I've checked the API test kits against calibrated solutions and are are accurate enough for aquarium use.  BTW, with a dGH reading and a calcium ppm reading you can compute the magnesium ppm level.

If you have a large tank, or many smaller tanks, Seachem Equilibrium can become expensive.  After you get things under control I can offer some suggestions as to how to use calcium sulfate and magnesium sulfate to deal with low dGH using 'salts'.  BTW, when I downloaded, enhanced, and enlarged your photos the most likely issue causing the interveinal chlorosis in your older leaves is insufficient available magnesium.  -Roy

Thank you very much @Seattle_Aquarist, you and @Pepere have been a great help, and I’ll get back to you guys when I have updates on my aquarium plants. Enjoy the rest of your day. 

[TwoFace99]

Hey @Seattle_Aquarist I hate to bother you again, but after the initial dosage, do I keep dosing the same/lowered amount of Equilibrium every water change or every month to keep a good supply of magnesium for my plants? 

[Seattle_Aquarist]

On 4/1/2024 at 1:22 PM, TwoFace99 said:

Hey @Seattle_Aquarist I hate to bother you again, but after the initial dosage, do I keep dosing the same/lowered amount of Equilibrium every water change or every month to keep a good supply of magnesium for my plants? 

Hi @TwoFace99,

When I do water changes I added sufficient just for the amount of new water added.  For example if I remove and replace 20 gallons from my 45 gallon tank then I add three (3) teaspoons of Equilibrium (1.5 teaspoons X 2) that way I don't have a build-up of minerals in the tank.  -Roy

[TwoFace99]

Thank you very much again @Seattle_Aquarist 🙏

Edited April 1 by TwoFace99

[johnnyxxl]

On 3/30/2024 at 12:20 AM, TwoFace99 said:

That’s unfortunate as I was hoping that wasn’t going to be the answer with my Cyprtocorne Tropica and Java Fern. The Tropica plant, because it’s going to lose ALOT more leaves than I have trimmed off already, and some of the younger Java Fern (that has spawned from my original Java Fern) are already down to one or two leaves on their rhizomes. However, it makes sense. 

Leave the leaves a cool thing is when the java realizes that the leaves are goners it will spore plantlets from the bad leaf and shed it itself.

[TwoFace99]

On 4/3/2024 at 5:05 AM, johnnyxxl said:

Leave the leaves a cool thing is when the java realizes that the leaves are goners it will spore plantlets from the bad leaf and shed it itself.

Yea, that how most of my Java Fern spawned, yet only a patch of Java Fern remain that I have glued to one of my rocks. 

[TwoFace99]

Hello, I just wanted to give a weekly update of my situation, as I try to correct the magnesium deficiency of my aquarium amongst other things:

April 1st-April 8th, 2024

-Unfortunately, I managed to put a little too much Equilibrium in the tank and raised the GH to 15. However, when I tested the GH before my 50% WC yesterday, it was at 13dGH, so I’m assuming this is proof that my plants are actively consuming the added calcium and magnesium? 
-I trimmed off a lot of Water Wisteria/Crypt. plants (Tropica, Wendtii Green, and Lucens) of their leaves, as well as threw away a few Water Wisteria stems as they were no good/not recovering.

-The Water Wisteria themselves have shown some healthy growth emerging from their center and some root formation (white-colored, not brown or black) closer to the stem top. 

-My Bucephalandra Black Pearl and Anubias Barteri/Golden Nana seem to be unaffected by the deficiencies that plagued my tank are still growing, but I did trim off a few leaves of the Black Pearl and Anubias Golden Nana.

-Had to throw away one of my Banana plants as the tubers were now beginning to shed, and the plant itself had no roots or any more leaves, so it would have disintegrate anyway. 

-My nitrate levels actually dipped from 20ppm to 10ppm (before the water change/added Easy Green). Again, I’m assuming like the dip in GH, that my plants are more actively consuming the nutrients I’m feeding them.

-Fish inhabitants are doing fine/ no change in behavior

-No change in Phosphate levels (1.0mg/L)

-Amazon Sword plants, in general, have shed a couple of the rough-looking leaves, and I clipped some off, but are doing good. However, one of my regular Sword plants is still growing short new leaves. I did stick in a root tab yesterday, so I’ll give it more time to recover. 
-Almost all of my Java Fern is gone (the plant most affected by my lack of knowledge concerning nutrient deficiencies). Many of the ones I threw out recently had a bunch of holes all over their leaves, while the bad batch before was pale/yellow/browning spots. The only Java Fern left are a decent patch glued onto one of my rocks that was largely unaffected, outside of a few. 
-Overall, I’m still waiting til the end of May to give my plants the recovery time they need, before I get rid of any more, which are mainly my Crypt plants, as I have a hard time telling if they are adjusting/growing new leaves, despite being a rosette plant like Swords. 

[Seattle_Aquarist]

Quote

-My nitrate levels actually dipped from 20ppm to 10ppm (before the water change/added Easy Green). Again, I’m assuming like the dip in GH, that my plants are more actively consuming the nutrients I’m feeding them.

Hi @TwoFace99,

That is correct, it is believed that there is always a "limiting factor" that limits the uptake of nutrients in a tank.  Sometimes it is light.  Sometimes it is available carbon molecules (that is why CO2 is added to tanks), sometimes it is one nutrient that limits the uptake of the other nutrients and limits the growth of plants.  -Roy

Edited April 10 by Seattle_Aquarist

[TwoFace99]

Hello, I’m just reporting in once again updates for my aquarium: 

April 9th-30th, 2024

- I did get rid of my banana plants and a sword plant as they were too far gone and falling apart (stems, leaves, and roots mainly for the banana plants).

-I recently purchased a new cast of plants that arrived April 25th and 26th (Ludwigia Arcuata and Natans Super Red, a couple of Amazon Swords, Cormybosa Compacta, Bacopa Green/Moneywort, Anubias Barteri Round coin, Hygrophila Angustofolia, Bucephalandra Lamandau Mini, and Red Tiger Lotus, as well as Bolbitis Heteroclita).

-All the new plants are doing well and growing their submerged leaves, except for the Bucephalandra and Anubias of course. The Ludwigia Super Red came to me in rough shape, so BucePlant was nice enough to extend the DOA protection by 2 weeks to see if they bounce back or not.

-There’s been much less diatoms on the glass now seemingly with my new addition of stem plants, as opposed to how much it covered the tank with just my few Amazon Swords, Crypts and Anubias in the tank.

-Phosphate levels are now at 2.0 mg/L with this past WC/testing I do every Monday.

-Cryptocorne Tropica plant is still growing and developing leaves that are curled and browning along the edges. I did give the plant a root tabs a couple of times during this period. I’m not sure if I should keep this plant or not.

-Lastly, I can’t help but notice my GH was sitting at 13dGH, after I performed my WC, but after adding a 1 1/2 teaspoon of Seachem Equilibrium it is now sitting at 18dGH. I thought GH is supposed to dip from the plants consuming the calcium and magnesium in the water column, not increase? Should I be worry about my fish? @Seattle_Aquarist
Here are pictures of the tank attached: 

Edited Wednesday at 06:14 PM by TwoFace99

[Seattle_Aquarist]

Hi @TwoFace99,

Sorry for the delayed response, I just got the notification in my Inbox that you had posted.

Remembering we are watching the new growth, not the older existing growth, I am seeing some positive improvement in the Ludwigia arcuata with healthy leaves and good internodel spacing, a new leaf coming out of the older java fern, and the newer Nymphaea (lily) leaf looks good.  However not sure of the species but the one with the arrow below (Hygrophila corymbosa?) still looks seems to be showing symptoms of chlorosis (yellowing).  Have you checked your nitrate levels lately?  Which increased growth there will be a need for increased nitrates.  -Roy