Looking for Check Values (or advice) for DIY BBS Hatchery

[lewk]

Hello,

I've been using a DIY Brine Shrimp hatcher that I've been pretty happy with. It's a hanging system that uses a CO2 cap to have separate airlines for aeration and for access, as shown below. Please ignore the mess - my setup is made for function, not for show. 😛 



Anyway, I do have one issue with this setup - as you can see in the picture, sometimes when the air is disconnected brine will flow down the side with the check valve, which it shouldnt be doing. I'm guessing this is an issue primarily because of the check valves I've been using, as if the check valve was doing its job the brine shouldnt be able to displace the air in the valve, right? 

I was hoping someone has done something similar and can recommend specific valves. I know these clear ones are cheaper, but I do like the fact that they are clear - I know if BBS has gotten inside of them. I worry that wouldn't work with a metal check valve. Alternatively, if you can think of another way to avoid this issue I'm all ears. Thanks!

[CJs Aquatics]

I’ve been thinking on this for a while, I’m not familiar with this system as I use the ziss brine shrimp hatchery, however it is a very nice diy. That being said I’ve had great success with the coop air valves for air, but I would be concerned over time a similar situation would happen regarding brine getting in the tubing when the air isn’t attached. If I’m viewing this correctly I’m assuming the check valve side is where you connect your air and the right tube is for harvesting the live baby brine? If this is the case the cheapest solution I could think of which might be worth a try is to purchase the ziss premium air valve from the coop website. It’s under $2 I believe and in theory if attached ahead of the check valve and below base where the tubing funnels from, it would allow for you to when using air twist open and the air pressure should keep the brine out of the tube, and then potentially when not in use twist closed making it impossible for any brine to pass through whatever point you set it at. Bear in mind this is just theoretical as I have no experience with the diy hatchery, however I think it might work and is cost effective, might be worth a thought at least, just wanted to at least chime in before I forgot 

[rockfisher]

Why not move the check valve up to just past the cap with a short piece of tube. The shrimp are going to move down the tube as long as there is water in the tube that far. 

[TOtrees]

Rigid tubing. 

Clear acrylic (plastic) tubing that most decent and well-stocked aquarium stores sell. 

Here's a snip of the 3/16" version, which appears to have the same label as what I buy. I get it in 3ft lengths, and it goes a long way, if you can figure out how to cut it cleanly. The smallest size (the one shown, I think) inserts right into 1/4 airline tubing, so you can use 1/2" pieces as straight connectors. 

For the hatcher, replace your CO2 caps with regular bottle caps, and use a piece of the rigid tubing that is a bit taller than your hatcher, and put it in the top. This will put your air supply above the hatcher not below, so you won't have bbs swimming into the tube. I ran one like this for many months quite well. I let the bbs settle after hatching, then used a slightly larger diameter rigid tube with flexible hose attached (like 3/8 or something?) to siphon the bbs from the bottom of the bottle. Or you could leave the CO2 caps and keep your pour-off valve right at the cap, if you want. 

[Tommy Vercetti]

I use the single input caps for that exact reason. 

Edited April 3 by Tommy Vercetti

[lewk]

Thanks for the tips, everyone. I won't deny my hatchery could be improved but until I get the motivation to do an overhaul I'm going with @CJs Aquatics's suggestion - honestly I feel silly for not thinking of it myself!