Will erythromycin harm the nitrifying bacteria in tank??

[HannaB]

@nabokovfan87 @Colu

Thanks everyone. I added some aquarium salt (about 18 tablespoons) a few days ago, am monitoring fish. 

I also did a water test on Mon, Dec. 26th:

Ammonia: was actually normal (0 ppm)

Nitrites: Purple (0.5 ppm)

High-range pH: came up as a pinkish/red color, correlated with a pH of 8.2 in color chart

 

1.) So, regarding the nitrites: I had forgotten that I had ordered a small bottle of Fritz Complete, full spectrum water conditioner (supposedly neutralizes ammonia & nitrites along with chlorine & chloramine); I added about a capful to the tank in the morning after I did the water test; I then tested the water about 8 hours later, and the nitrite level was normalized (0 ppm). So I guess this could be a good temporary option to control nitrite levels in conjunction with the water changes?

2.) Also.... regarding the high pH level..... any thoughts or advice on this?? Should I do something to lower it? Will it probably normalize eventually?

3.) And yes; I have the MarineLand 38G bowfront kit; I posted a picture below of the filter box: 

4.) Fin nipping: yes, unfortunately, I have noticed quite a bit of fin-nipping. Specifically, the yellow angelfish typically nips at the veiled/striped angelfish, while the silver dollars sometimes poke at both of them. But wow, in hindsight, it probably wasn't the best idea to put all those fish together in the same tank 😞. 

5.) Do you have any brand suggestions for airstones that are better quality? I've had a long strip one for years now, but TBH even since the beginning, it's always switched between the entire strip producing bubbles, to only a small portion of it producing any; can't figure out why. 

 

 

[nabokovfan87]

On 12/29/2022 at 6:40 AM, HannaB said:

3.) And yes; I have the MarineLand 38G bowfront kit; I posted a picture below of the filter box: 

4.) 😞.

 

 

@Chick-In-Of-TheSea

You know what's next. 🙂

Edited December 29, 2022 by nabokovfan87

[nabokovfan87]

Alright.... SO.

There's a few things here we need to digest.  This is my own personal experience and something I've helped others with that has usually, often, fixed issues in their tanks.  Essentially, your filter is working too hard to keep strong, healthy bacteria.

What we need to do is ditch the replacement cartridge and add in some longer lasting mechanical and biological media.

Option 1:  Sponge (Mechanical) + Ceramic Media (Biological)

 

Option 2: Sponge (Mechanical + Biological)
Note: This typically works better when you do a course to medium or course --> Medium --> Fine method.  You can also do a Course sponge, followed by a thicker or several layers of medium sponge.  This is extremely common, but potentially not in the method you think.



Starting with what you currently have, you can go out and find a bag of biomax, matrix, or some other media that is available and easy to plug in and use.  The Seachem Tidal 35 bags or Biomax 30 (aquaclear brand) will be perfect.  Purchase either one of those and then add that to the CURRENT HoB container.  Nothing fancy, just add it, and give it time to get seeded with media. 

This is what we can see in @Chick-In-Of-TheSea's video when their Marineland filter was modded.

On 12/29/2022 at 6:40 AM, HannaB said:

So I guess this could be a good temporary option to control nitrite levels in conjunction with the water changes?

See above, That's what you want to do first before adding any sort of biological helper.  In terms of what you had mentioned, dechlorinator is helpful, but do not dose it more than once every 24 hours.  This does not remove the nitrites from the water, it does something to bind them, but eventually they will show back up unless removed via water change.

On 12/29/2022 at 6:40 AM, HannaB said:

2.) Also.... regarding the high pH level..... any thoughts or advice on this?? Should I do something to lower it? Will it probably normalize eventually?

Let me re-read and see what your potential causes and options to improve it might be.  Take a look at Seachem's Acid buffer if need be.

On 12/29/2022 at 6:40 AM, HannaB said:

4.) Fin nipping: yes, unfortunately, I have noticed quite a bit of fin-nipping. Specifically, the yellow angelfish typically nips at the veiled/striped angelfish, while the silver dollars sometimes poke at both of them. But wow, in hindsight, it probably wasn't the best idea to put all those fish together in the same tank 😞. 

5.) Do you have any brand suggestions for airstones that are better quality? I've had a long strip one for years now, but TBH even since the beginning, it's always switched between the entire strip producing bubbles, to only a small portion of it producing any; can't figure out why. 

Nipping is definitely an issue.  This is often why a 40B is recommended for angels because of the horizontal swimming space as opposed to only the vertical space. 

(L x W x H)
36 Bow - 30.25 x 15.5 x 20.875
40 Breeder - 48.25 x 12.75 x 16.925

The ziss airstones work really well.  I would start with those.  I always break the stone ones when I try to remove the airline.  Getting ones that are plastic is a major advantage when it comes to reusability.

Edited December 29, 2022 by nabokovfan87

[HannaB]

On 12/29/2022 at 1:51 PM, nabokovfan87 said:

Alright.... SO.

There's a few things here we need to digest.  This is my own personal experience and something I've helped others with that has usually, often, fixed issues in their tanks.  Essentially, your filter is working too hard to keep strong, healthy bacteria.

What we need to do is ditch the replacement cartridge and add in some longer lasting mechanical and biological media.

Option 1:  Sponge (Mechanical) + Ceramic Media (Biological)

 

Option 2: Sponge (Mechanical + Biological)
Note: This typically works better when you do a course to medium or course --> Medium --> Fine method.  You can also do a Course sponge, followed by a thicker or several layers of medium sponge.  This is extremely common, but potentially not in the method you think.



Starting with what you currently have, you can go out and find a bag of biomax, matrix, or some other media that is available and easy to plug in and use.  The Seachem Tidal 35 bags or Biomax 30 (aquaclear brand) will be perfect.  Purchase either one of those and then add that to the CURRENT HoB container.  Nothing fancy, just add it, and give it time to get seeded with media. 

This is what we can see in @Chick-In-Of-TheSea's video when their Marineland filter was modded.

See above, That's what you want to do first before adding any sort of biological helper.  In terms of what you had mentioned, dechlorinator is helpful, but do not dose it more than once every 24 hours.  This does not remove the nitrites from the water, it does something to bind them, but eventually they will show back up unless removed via water change.

Let me re-read and see what your potential causes and options to improve it might be.  Take a look at Seachem's Acid buffer if need be.

Nipping is definitely an issue.  This is often why a 40B is recommended for angels because of the horizontal swimming space as opposed to only the vertical space. 

(L x W x H)
36 Bow - 30.25 x 15.5 x 20.875
40 Breeder - 48.25 x 12.75 x 16.925

The ziss airstones work really well.  I would start with those.  I always break the stone ones when I try to remove the airline.  Getting ones that are plastic is a major advantage when it comes to reusability.

Wow, ok SO.... just to make sure I understand correctly: 

1.) Completely get rid of the filter cartridge?

2.) I can add the aquaclear sponge into the back slot of my filter box (is this one good?: https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-Inserts-Aquarium-Replacement-A1394/dp/B0002AQK4S). How often would I need to switch it out? 

2.) Add Aquaclear Biomax 30 into the front slot? Is the 30 large enough for my tank or would I need a bigger one?

3.) So is the ceramic just meant to serve as an additional bio. filter to the biowheel? (Are biowheels in general not really sufficient for optimal filtration?) 

4.) I'm a bit confused as to why (in the video), he added a sponge *below* the biowheel? 

[Chick-In-Of-TheSea]

On 12/29/2022 at 3:16 PM, HannaB said:

added a sponge *below* the biowheel

The waterline is dropped and with the baffle in place there was still a lot of splashing noise. The sponge below the biowheel, stuffed into the baffle, is to dampen sound of water hitting water. (Personal preference. Totally optional.)

On 12/29/2022 at 3:16 PM, HannaB said:

is the ceramic just meant to serve as an additional bio. filter to the biowheel? (Are biowheels in general not really sufficient for optimal filtration?)

They are. Extra ceramics are just redundancy. In this case they are there to collect bacteria and can later be dropped into a new tank (such as a quarantine tank) to help start the cycle there.
 

Ceramics placed just before the biowheel keep the sponges away from the wheel so that the wheel can spin. If you find the water flow is pushing your sponges toward your wheel and preventing spin, you can place ceramics or something else you have on hand just before the wheel as a spacer. (Such as the plastic part of your filter cartridge)

Edited December 30, 2022 by Chick-In-Of-TheSea

[Chick-In-Of-TheSea]

On 12/29/2022 at 3:16 PM, HannaB said:

Completely get rid of the filter cartridge?

If you are keeping live plants, yes. You would not want to use a filter cartridge containing carbon because it removes things from the water that the plants need to feed on. If no live plants, you can use the cartridge. The carbon also helps to remove medicines from a tank after you treat fish. Know that you don’t have to spend $$$ on cartridges all the time as filter manufacturers will have you believe. Most of us use our own media such as coarse sponge and floss and we just cut it to size. Saves money, last longer, and can be maintained by squeezing in a bucket of tank water.

I will let @nabokovfan87 answer the AquaClear questions. I opted for the ACO coarse sponge + filter floss. This is the floss I used. Comes in a massive roll but you’ll use it over time. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J5MV86S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Edited December 30, 2022 by Chick-In-Of-TheSea

[Chick-In-Of-TheSea]

On 12/29/2022 at 1:51 PM, nabokovfan87 said:

Option 1:  Sponge (Mechanical) + Ceramic Media (Biological)

Recall that the biowheel itself is biological, and spinning renews the water and provides aeration for the bacteria that reside on it.

[nabokovfan87]

On 12/29/2022 at 12:16 PM, HannaB said:

1.) Completely get rid of the filter cartridge?

Yes.  It is essentially filter floss.  It does not have nearly what you're looking for in terms of long term health for your biological filtration, unfortunately.  If you need to polish the water, it's a great tool.

On 12/29/2022 at 12:16 PM, HannaB said:

2.) I can add the aquaclear sponge into the back slot of my filter box (is this one good?: https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-Inserts-Aquarium-Replacement-A1394/dp/B0002AQK4S). How often would I need to switch it out? 

Correct.  You would need to cut it to fit, then you would literally only replace it when it turned to a pile of mush.  Usually after about a year or a few years.

On 12/29/2022 at 12:16 PM, HannaB said:

2.) Add Aquaclear Biomax 30 into the front slot? Is the 30 large enough for my tank or would I need a bigger one?

30 should fit. you can also do 2x30.  They may or may not come in a multi-pack.  For sure the tidal 35 is the nicer size for use like that.  The 55 might fit, entirely up to what you see compared to the dimensions you measure.  Just open the box in the store or ask them if you can to verify, it does have dimensions on the box.  I would always have 2-3 backs of the 30 packs around for new tanks. Toss them in a tank that is already up and running and then after a few weeks add it in to the new tank.

On 12/29/2022 at 12:16 PM, HannaB said:

3.) So is the ceramic just meant to serve as an additional bio. filter to the biowheel? (Are biowheels in general not really sufficient for optimal filtration?)

Correct.  The biowheel might not be working as effectively for a variety of reasons, but in terms of stability, having more media in the filter will seriously help.  Then the wheel will be filled with very resilient, very strong bacteria.

On 12/29/2022 at 12:16 PM, HannaB said:

4.) I'm a bit confused as to why (in the video), he added a sponge *below* the biowheel? 

Trying to dampen the output flow (slow it down) for that particular fish. Not required.

 

On 12/29/2022 at 4:21 PM, Chick-In-Of-TheSea said:

If you are keeping live plants, yes. You would not want to use a filter cartridge containing carbon because it removes things from the water that the plants need to feed on. If no live plants, you can use the cartridge. The carbon also helps to remove medicines from a tank after you treat fish. Know that you don’t have to spend $$$ on cartridges all the time as filter manufacturers will have you believe. Most of us use our own media such as coarse sponge and floss and we just cut it to size. Saves money, last longer, and can be maintained by squeezing in a bucket of tank water.

Even without plants in the tank, carbon aside, you just want to improve the filter media and how it operates.  Why it isn't done by marineland (or others) is beyond me.  In terms of a blank canvas, marineland is great and simple to "fix".

Better media means better filtration and a better overall bioload your filter/tank can house.