anewbie Posted October 13, 2022 Author Share Posted October 13, 2022 It looks like we will go with PEX (which i understand is PE material); the problem with PP (which is cheap and i think better); is that it is so completely inert that glue won't work with it so you have to use a special heat fuse device to join pipes and the plumbers don't have them. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingcow Posted October 13, 2022 Share Posted October 13, 2022 On 10/13/2022 at 1:14 PM, anewbie said: It looks like we will go with PEX (which i understand is PE material); the problem with PP (which is cheap and i think better); is that it is so completely inert that glue won't work with it so you have to use a special heat fuse device to join pipes and the plumbers don't have them. I think that's the right path. Also helps that it's commonly used in residential walls, so code won't be a problem. If you can figure out ways to route the piping that you have places where you can inspect it, that would be a big benefit, especially at the 90's. I think PEX B is the less leaching material, but confirm that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anewbie Posted October 13, 2022 Author Share Posted October 13, 2022 On 10/13/2022 at 12:42 PM, flyingcow said: I think that's the right path. Also helps that it's commonly used in residential walls, so code won't be a problem. If you can figure out ways to route the piping that you have places where you can inspect it, that would be a big benefit, especially at the 90's. I think PEX B is the less leaching material, but confirm that. I found mix information on that aspect as it seems to depend on brand and batch. One thing i did dig out is you want it to be certified NSF/ANSI 61. These is actually a pex(a,b,c); and it seems to have more with rigidness of the pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingcow Posted October 13, 2022 Share Posted October 13, 2022 On 10/13/2022 at 2:00 PM, anewbie said: I found mix information on that aspect as it seems to depend on brand and batch. One thing i did dig out is you want it to be certified NSF/ANSI 61. These is actually a pex(a,b,c); and it seems to have more with rigidness of the pipe. yeah the spec has to do with rigidity. And yes, the ANSI cert is important. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingcow Posted October 13, 2022 Share Posted October 13, 2022 Something that just popped into my mind. Consider ways to drain the system or pack it with tap water in between uses. This will prevent stagnant RODI water sitting in the lines leaching. This could be as simple as pushing out the last water with tap water until a tds meter shows the increase, then running to drain when you start again until a TDS meter shows the decrease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anewbie Posted October 13, 2022 Author Share Posted October 13, 2022 Don't understand; the system will have a continous flow as two of the large aquarium will use a drip system... (roughtly 1.5 gph). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingcow Posted October 13, 2022 Share Posted October 13, 2022 On 10/13/2022 at 2:26 PM, anewbie said: Don't understand; the system will have a continous flow as two of the large aquarium will use a drip system... (roughtly 1.5 gph). Gotcha, I thought you were doing batch water changes. Nevermind! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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