Greg Stewart
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Posts posted by Greg Stewart
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On 5/11/2022 at 1:56 PM, JettsPapa said:
I know @Greg Stewart said they're herbivores that live on algae, but I've seen reports that they subsist mostly on biofilm. I don't know which is correct.
I've never seen them eat biofilm. I guess in the absence of fresh algae, or a quality dry food, they may, but I wouldn't rely on this. They are also picky about the age of the algae they graze, and prefer fresh young algae to established algae.
In both the tanks where I have otos, they devour Repashy Super Green--they even guard it when I put it in the tank. And, i have to mow down the algae farm on the rear glass every now and again so it replenishes with nice young growth.
They completely ignore the biofilm masses when they develop, though.
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What @xXInkedPhoenixX said.
Corys are omnivorous bottom feeders. Otocinclus are primary herbivores, with many species being obligate herbivores.Corys you can feed anything that falls to the bottom.
Otos need algae, and lots of it. They prefer live algae, but high quality prepared herbivore foods like Repashy Super Green are also very good.
Otos are also notoriously mistreated in the industry, and by the time you get them--depending on where you bought them, and where that place got them--they have a good chance of having been starved to the point that they will no longer even try to eat if food is available. So, if you do get otos (which are actually easy fish when you get healthy ones and feed them properly) be prepared for the possibility that the ones you buy may be predestined to fail before you even have a chance with them.
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I add the cuttlebone to my canister in my large tank, and I drop it in the back where it's mostly hidden in my 5 gallon. I never see anyone paying any attention to it in the 5 gallon.
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I add polyester fiber pillow stuffing as a polishing media, on top of the stock sponges in my canister, as well as two trays of Matrix for bio media. I also have cut-fit bulk rolls of double density polishing media I use in places where the pillow stuffing is less manageable.
I'm paranoid about sponges for cleaning supplies as I don't know exactly what they contain.
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On 5/4/2022 at 5:55 AM, Waricks said:
My PSO is also my fastest growing plant. The Bacopa doesn’t do much of anything.
It's the freakin' Twilight Zone in that tank. 😉
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On 5/3/2022 at 11:44 PM, Waricks said:
I forgot to tell you I am dosing 3 squirts of easy green every other day. (29 gallon tank).
That's baffling, 'cuz you might only have about 20 gallons of water in that system with all the substrate and other hardscape. 3ml would be over dosing for EG. Something is eating it up.
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On 5/3/2022 at 11:21 PM, Waricks said:
One bacopa caroliana/monnieri won't consume that much nitrate that quickly, and even for 6 water sprites that would be a shocker. But, if they're growing fast and huge, maybe it's possible. But, those are the two fastest plants you've got.
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On 5/3/2022 at 10:50 PM, Waricks said:
Thanks for the reply. I have also been questioning why I use prime. I don’t have any ammonia or nitrite in my water source. I was told to use prime when I was cycling my tank and I just never stopped. I stopped doing water changes about 3 weeks ago and have just been adding water due to evaporation. Each time I add water I use Prime except for yesterday when I used Top Fin conditioner. My water chemistry seems to be fine except I have what I would consider low nitrates at between 0 and 5 ppm. I agree with your fewer chemicals theory.
As a side note I was using Purigen to keep the tannin coloration out of the tank but I took that out about 3 weeks ago and decided to just not use it anymore.
I have about 18 plants in the 29 gallon tank at the moment.
I'd suggest stopping the Prime and keeping it on hand in case you have a spike in ammonia or nitrIte. Just switch to a basic dechlorinator, unless you have zero chlorine/chloramine in your source water.
18 tiny plants? Or, 18 gargantuan plants? Fast growing stems or slow growing buces and anubias? Do you have any pothos rooted in your filter? If you have 18 large fast growers, or even a single pothos, that could be your culprit.
And, how much Easy Green are you dosing, and how frequently?
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Prime should not impact nitrate availability to plants. But, i question the use of Prime as a daily water conditioner unless you have ammonia and nitrites in your source water. I like to lean toward the "fewer chemicals are better" end of the spectrum.
How heavily planted are your tanks? Are you plants just consuming the nitrates faster than you supply them? Are you removing them with water changes? Do you use Purigen in your filter?
I would think there might be other reasons why nitrates are tough to keep up while dosing.
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@Odd Duck I get it. That's a tough situation to manage. The only thing I can really suggest is to spec out new units with the battery capacity to handle the duration, rather than spec'ing them according to the max load. And, then distribute your gear over the units to minimise load as much as possible.
Are there alternative pumps and other kit to handle your tanks that you can get that have lower power ratings (and, work just as well)? You might have to tackle this from both angles. Minimise power demand at the same time as maxmising battery runtime.
You could run tests on the units you have to gauge the actual runtime for your gear. But, keep in mind that every time you run the batteries down to null they'll get "older". And, the longer the span between charges, the more they'll likely lose capacity and be less reliable over time.
It seems to be a no-win situation without having the money or space to throw at it, unfortunately.
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@Apulo That InkBird regulator isn't working well? It's even got a solenoid on it. The CO2Art kits are great. I just have to keep my costs down 😉
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@Apulo I love the CO2Art inline diffuser. I have it on a Fluval 207 with the standard intake/return (I don't want to have to clean algae off the glass pipes 😉 ).
Is that a standard airline check valve on your CO2 line? If it is, you should get a CO2 check valve. The regular airline valve can burst from the pressure. I also put my check valve (from CO2Art) closer to the bubble counter on the regulator--less spillage when I top off the bubble counter fluid, or refill my generator.
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On 3/23/2022 at 11:39 PM, CT_ said:
Sorry. I sort of jumbled things in my last post. I meant, do worn out batteries need more current to float charge?
I believe the charging capacity/retention is unrelated to the supplied current. But, I could be wrong on this. Higher current would charge a battery faster, but not necessarily "better". Older batteries typically charge faster due to capacity loss.
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@Widgets You're right. I was mis-using the term "memory" for lead-acid batteries. lead-acid suffers sulphation crystalisation due to inconsistent charging, and over time this results in a reduction of capacity. And, "home use" is generally inconsistent (industrial use is frequently not that great, either) so, for reliability I automatically factor in that inconsistency.
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@min880107 Is the airline for the filter tube running outside the tube? Where do you have the air outlet? I've only ever seen the airline run inside the tube--the concept being like the air supply for a sponge filter or an under gravel plenum.
Also, the height of the air stone (if you use one) or the end of the tube should be situated at about the middle of the tube and the air pressure adjusted to optimise vertical lift. Both of the position of the air line and pressure can be adjusted to get the flow you would need.
What plans did you use to build this? Ot, did you design it yourself?
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On 3/23/2022 at 7:52 PM, CT_ said:
I've only ever worked on lithium battery circuits. Are you saying that lead acid needs higher trickle charge current as their health deteriorates? random tangent: i hate lead acid the more I learn about them the more undesirable they seem. i wish you could find more lifepo4 battery powered UPSs 😞
Most consumer grade/price point UPS systems use lead-acid. There are some Li-ion units on the market, but they're more limited. Lead acid does retain memory, but it's also non-flammable. Li-ion batteries can suffer from thermal runaway, and with the size of UPS batteries, the potential for ignition makes a possible fire a far bigger deal. Li-ion fires are difficult to put out.
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On 3/23/2022 at 5:09 PM, Streetwise said:
I also have an Apex that can detect when power is out even while connected to a UPS, so it can optimize what remains on while under battery backup.
Ain't you special 😉
I've actually thought about the Apex, but my wife doesn't yet know how much I've spent on all the rest of my gear, and I'm saving up for my dream of an auto dosing system that i don't need to calibrate every three months, like a Neptune DOS. Their products are just so darned 'spensive. -
On 3/23/2022 at 5:27 PM, CT_ said:
If they all start fully charged you may not loose that much efficiency. But I agree over all you shouldn't connect them in series, you should just size one appropriately. My biggest fear would be engineering realities causing unknown problems (eg one UPS might not like the quality of power its getting from another UPS.)
On brand new batteries, fully charged with no memory, across the board on all units, yeah. There won't be too much loos of efficiency. But, we don't live in a perfect world. And, all batteries deteriorate over time. They are constantly being topped off, and it's the moment you have an outage that's the most critical. Batteries are usually running, draining, getting topped, for months, and by that time, you no longer have your brand new freshly charged batteries.
Line conditioning is also only part of it. You add load with every UPS and attached device you add serially, and that load is taken in its entirety by the primary unit in series. Unnecessarily overloading the head unit unnecessarily reduces its service life. I just don't see a win, there, in any case.
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On 3/23/2022 at 5:02 PM, Odd Duck said:
I will only have the air pump on back up and nothing else. So 14 watts should give me decent run time even if not for as long as the Tetra-100. Tetra says 5 watts on its underside, is that what that stands for, the Rated Input Power? I know an older 1500 lasted about 8.5-9 hours when we had a power out a month or so ago when they were replacing a bad transformer nearby. Maybe I would get somewhere between the 5 and 9 hours, I’m guessing? When I finally found a chart that showed my model, it said 2 hrs 14 min for 50 watts. That seems very short compared to what you’re saying. Doesn’t seem to match my irl experience, either, but I know I can’t directly compare 14 W with 5 W.
Any recommendation for a better brand or different model? Go big or go home?
Which chart did you find that said only 2 hours? Which model do you actually have?
If your experience is 8 to 9 hours with a 5W draw, 7 or so hours on a 14W draw doesn't seem off. But, battery health will impact that, and get "worse" over time. Your operational runtime will depend entirely on how good your batteries are at the time the power goes out.
Deciding which UPS to get, if you replace the ones you have, will depend on what, exactly, you need to get out of them. UPS units are not really designed to be long term power banks. They are really designed to allow you time to address a power outage before equipment goes down hard.
If you really need long term uptime for power on your fish room, if might be a better expense considering a backup generator with an automatic transfer switch. The larger the UPS you get, the larger the expense you're looking at. And, if you're prone to multi-day outages, you won't get good coverage from a UPS.
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@Odd Duck Use the "Rated Input Power" in Watts (W). That's the real power the unit is drawing from the supply--either direct from the power company via wall outlet, or from the UPS.
Total up all the devices max wattage and then refer to the top line of the chart (Watts), then find the runtime down the chart for your model number.
All the 1500s have the same 5 hour runtime for 50 Watts of draw. So, if you only have that Alita-15 on the APC 1500, you should be getting more than 5 hours of runtime (probably about 7.5 hours for a constant 14W draw), depending on battery health.
I think the Tera-100 pulls about 4 to 5 Watts, as a comparison.
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On 3/23/2022 at 1:59 PM, Nyssa said:
This made me laugh, that's hilarious that you have to track, of all things, that 🤣
Oh, that's the only reason I have not yet been thrown out on the street with my tanks 😉
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What did you use for the plenum plate? Do you have photos of the parts before you assembled them?
Just a note on the biomedia, I think you've created some dead zones and water restriction by laying them flat. You'll get most of the water flow only over the outside, and as they are aligned pretty tightly together you have minimal gaps for water to flow between them. I'd probably turn them each on end so that water can flow vertically through and around them. This could also be where your overall flow restriction lies.
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The only things I actually track are my CO2 generator mixture/date (I'm trying to figure out how to get the longest running stoichiometric ratio of bicard to acid), and, the days/times that tank maintenance most pisses off my wife.
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@Odd Duck I'm assuming you're taking APC 1500?
I can't find the input draw on the Alta-15 I see Alita-100, Alita-120, and Alita-200. You'd need to find the input demand on the pump y0ou have, and then you could refer to this chart from APC for general runtime:
https://www.apcguard.com/Smart-UPS-Runtime-Chart.asp
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Corys or Otos?
in General Discussion
Posted
I understand that. I have just never seen them rasping at any surfaces in my tanks that don't have visible algae. They cling to all sorts of surfaces. Mine just only appear to rasp at algae covered surfaces.
I'm sure there are species variations that differ in diet. Some may prefer plain biofilm. But, mine appear to prefer algae or at least algae rich periphyton and plant based foods. Not sure which I have, but I think they're probably just common vittatus or macrosiplus.