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KittenFishMom

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Posts posted by KittenFishMom

  1. I have seen some shrimplet when my eyeglasses are clean and the tank is clean. Not sure how many. The leeches or ramshorn snails or the bladder snails might be eating them too. These snails are not fussy. I have been removing large snails and snail eggs when I see them, but I must missed a few big clutches from the number of tiny snails I see.

  2. @Chick-In-Of-TheSea There are a lot of snails in the tank. I think the shrimp eat a lot of the snail poo because they do not show interest when I drop in a bit of any of the snail food I offer. I have Snowflake, Bactr AE, and a pellet no one in any of my tanks likes but the snails, and some shrimp sticks.

    This doesn't have to happen right away. I am trying to get a game plan figured out before I try to move anything. I could start trying to take the snails out. I won't get all of them, but it might make the shrimp a bit more hungry.

    • Like 1
  3. I have a tall half cylinder 10 gallon tank with blue dream neo shrimp and a lot of snails and some plants. It also has leeches.

    I want to remove the potting soil and sand capped substrate and all the leeches. and put in new substrate without potting soil, then return  some of the snail and all of the shrimp plants. (I will put the plants through RR).

    Problems I expect to run into:

    1) Getting all the shrimp out, with the plants and different hiding places.

    2) Holding the shrimp someplace where that will be leech free, and the shrimp will be happy with the water parms and food supply.

    3) Returning the shrimp to an un-aged tank with no real biofilm for the shrimp to live on.

    The potting soil seems to be using my KH and lowering my pH and I I don't like the pH swings every time I change the water. I have been trying to drip in some concentrated KH, but it seems to be used as fast as I add it.  I have also added some crushed coral, but that doesn't seem to make any difference either. I only add a little crushed coral at a time because I don't want the water parms to change too fast for the shrimp. I know too much calcium is as bad as not enough.

    I am also really tired of seeing the leeches. I don't think they both with the shrimp. but the snail population seems to keep them well fed and reproducing. I really want to have stable water and the leeches gone.

    I'm open to any advice or suggestions. 

    Once the corys get rehomed, I could use one of those tanks because they are leech free. One is bare bottom with floating plants, the other has sand but more cory eggs hatching all the time until I get rehome the last adult female. 

    THANK YOU IN ADVANCE !!!

  4. I found it, 12/10/21:

    @FlyingFishKeeper

     

    When I started my account I was/still am really interested in aviation, and flew radio controlled aircraft (which are my two main hobbies). So I combined it to get "FlyingFishKeeper" I also liked that it had a second meaning that it could have of meant a fish keeper who keeps flying fish (although I do not). 

    @DiscusLover it was username, not screenname.

     

    • Like 1
  5. I'm trying to figure out the waters parm ranges for the fish I have/want so I can mix & match/combine them in ways that will work well.

    I used google and got a lot of data, but no 2 source agreed.

    I'm looking at: neon tetras, male betta plakat(sp?), kuhli loaches(black and banded), mystery snails, neo shrimp, peppered corys, hillstream loaches right now. 

    I'm thinking about trying to get down to one 55 gallon tank for the summer. This would inlove rehoming some of the crew.

    Also think about the 55 plus a 10 half cylinder and / or a 15 gallon tank.

    Right now, all the water changes are eating a lot of time right now.  I am rehoming cory fry and adults. I might keep 6 males, but I also know they will add to the bio load/water lugging in the heat of the summer.

    I am beginning to understand that shrimp need lower calcium that mystery snails need. I see photos of shrimp and fish in the same tanks, but gather that often doesn't work for the shrimp. (Note: I don't want a ton of shrimp, but I would like to not have them all eaten, so maybe neo shrimp are not the right shrimp)

    What is your favorite source for getting accurate data about tank stock water parms?

  6. I guess I don't understand what make for bioload. I thought shrimp where low bioload, and plants help balance bioload. There are no fish in the tank. I thin the snails out often. I haven't added any snails since I set it up. The 100+ cory fry were a heavy bioload, but they have all been out of the tank for weeks.  The bio rings are for the shrimp to hang out in. The turnip and the bio balls are left from the cory fry. The turnip is not as dark green as it was with the fry in there.

    • Like 1
  7. I have been pulling any large snails when I see them and let the little ones do the clean up. I'll take and post some photos. I am in the habit of checking all 4 tanks water parm morning and night because I have to for the cory tanks. The shrimp tank was fine last night. (I over slept this morning and didn't check). 

    I mix the RO/DI water one scoop of Salty Shrimp GH/KH+ to 10 litters or water. that is what it recommends on the jar. I did 20 liters tonight. When it is done dripping in, I will give you the readings.

    In the tank are blue dream shrimp, ramshorn snails, bladder snails, leeches, and plants. For plants we have water lettuce, duckweed, I think that tall thing is guppy grass, ot sure about the small leafy stems, java moss, a turnip in the HOB with roots in the tank and a cryptocoryne Wendtii 'Brown. There is cholla (choya) wood, reddish lava stone, black sand capping organic potting soil. I have an HOB, a sponge filter and a heater.

    photos coming right up.

     

    • Like 1
  8. My 10 gallon shrimp tank has a light bio load, and I change the 2 days ago. Last night I dropped in a cube of Repashy to see how long it would last in with the shrimp and snails.

    Tonight I tested the water and the nitrate was 0 and the nitrite was red. I tossed in Prime and Amo-gaurd and Fritz "7"; and went to make RO/DI water. When I was ready to mix in the Salty Shrimp GH/KH+ into the RO water,  I tested the water again. The nitrate and nitrite were both back to zero and the KH had drop from low(green) to yellow(zero) and the pH had drop from 6.8 to below 6.4. in around 2 hours.

    I will do the water change while I what for answers.

    But I'm very confused. I'm wondering if I could just mix a scoop of the Salty Shrimp GH/KH+ in a bottle of water and do a very slow drip to put the KH back? Maybe I could have added a mix of baking soda in a slow drip and monitor the pH and KH?  I'm not sure what happened to the nitrite and KH. Did the plants eat it? Did the "7" eat it? Did the good bacteria eat? 

    I'm not giving that tank Repashy again. I thought it was stable and wouldn't foul the water and let fish/shrimp/snails eat over a long period of time. I don't see any sign of the cube 24 hours later.

    I'm interested in any thoughts. 

    • Like 1
  9. When I bought my yoyo loaches they were labeled as dwarf chain loaches. I had them in a 10 gallon tank. They loved eating all snails I offered. I didn't keep them very long at all because they quickly got too big for the tank.  They were very active, and fun to watch, but I was looking for quieter fish to put in the 55 tank after I did the build, so I rehomed them.

    • Love 1
  10. @Pepere I am guessing fish stores order large heavy boxes which get handled more slowly and carefully that small light boxes. a light box can get tossed around and land hard, a heavy box must be carried. and set down with care. I think the flights are the same for big and small orders, but I think the handling between flights is different because of the size and weight. I also think the other bags of fish act as shock absorbers, but I could be wrong. A box with 6 loaches can get tossed one handed into a bin and fall with a bump. A box with 200 fish has to be carried with 2 hands and set down. It is not out of lack of caring, but rather lack of time. The shipping have to handle the packages quickly. If I placed an order the size of a fish store with 6 loaches, I think the loaches would get suffer few bumps and bangs because of the size of the order in the box.

    If you read the feedback at Aqua Huna for banned loaches, you will see a considerable number of small order had problems. It would be interesting to see how far they were from the source. I don't think it is Aqua Hunas fault, I just think it is the way small packages get handled by any shipper.

  11. I had a 10 hex tank.

    It was nice to look at, but netting guppies was all but impossible.

    The net always seemed to reach across 2 walls and a corner. If you watch the side of the net, you miss the fish. If you watch the fish, you hit a corner.  With a bigger tank and a smaller net, you could have better luck than I did.

  12. I don't have a place to QT these fish for 6 weeks, away from the other tanks.  I think I should wait until all the cory have gone to the breeder before I try getting something as possibly tricky as fish coming out of a store's QT. Spring is a busy time of year. I don't want to contaminate my other tanks because I was in a hurry and grabbed the wrong net or forgot to sterilize equipment between water changes. I can get healthy fish when things are more relaxed and I have the time to be careful. If I am going to risk getting sick fish, I really need to have thing much more relaxed. I might be able to manage a QT in the summer on the garage floor. But right now there is ice in the stainless steel buckets I put out to wash for soaking the dragon stone. A sunny days makes me feel optimistic. The saying here is "It always snows on the daffodils". It will be very cold a few more times before the daffodils flower and fade. I should wait before I bite off more than I can chew in a small crowded cottage with helpful cats getting in the way.

    Thank you all for your faith in my skills and your clear view of the situation from a distance.

    • Like 1
  13. What do you think? 

    I have wanted striped kuhli loaches since before I bought my black kuhli loach. I couldn't find any, so I bought some black ones. I enjoy the back ones.

    Now a local big box store has sick striped kuhli loaches "under observation" because they are being treated for a "bacteria infection". They will be available for sale this coming week.

    I just rehomed all 38 cory adults and fry from a 15 gallon tank. I could use it as a QT tank, and give them a week or 2 of TCL and bbs to get their strength up, them try dosing the QT trio one week at a time. It would be tricky because it isn't a 10 gallon tank, so I would need to adjust dosing to be 1.5 times a 10 gallon dose, or start setting up a 10 gallon QT plastic tub, which makes it hard to observe the fish.

    The fish are starting out weak, and who knows what was diagnosed as a "bacteria infection". If I decide to try to get them, I will try to find out what they were treated with and for how long. As well as when they first arrived in the store.

    This is the store where I was told "it is best to start with just one cory", along with a few other mistakes, like the "dwarf chain loaches" growing into huge yoyo loaches.

    I don't feel good about the store, but I would like striped kuhli loaches. and I do have a tank that is pretty well cycled with plants and snails and no fish.

    Is this a waste of time and money to try to get the striped loaches back into good health?

    Is this a good idea because I know that there was a problem instead of just buying them with no history? 

    If I do buy them, should I buy extra, assuming some might not make it? I know they like being in a group.

    What do you think?

    • Like 1
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