Randall from Texas
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Posts posted by Randall from Texas
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Even with CO2 I can't run my lights at full power that long. If you can reduce your light and feedings for a while and water change through it while running the uv like colu said you should see results.
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How long is your light on?
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On 7/11/2021 at 10:32 AM, Lefty469 said:
I guess my question, without starting another thread with the same title, would be:
How important is temperature for plants? Can I grow Scarlet Temple in 83-84 degrees?
I'm asking because I keep failing. I've tried Scarlet Temple 3 times now. I am looking at another site that actually has recommended temperatures, and wondering why they're not listed on ACO's web site.
Why am I failing? I am using easy green 1 pump per 10 gallon on a very sparsely planted tank. My nitrates, depending on tank, range from 50-150 (Co-Op strips), the hardness is 75 or greater.
They are dying within a few weeks. The bottom of the stems just melt along with the rest of the leaves.
Is temperature a factor?
Is the fact that ACO grows with CO2 and I am not (is it withdraw)?
Frustrated and feeling like a failure.
I am also trying ST in my high tech discus tank for the 3rd time. I have kept it alive the longest for me so far but it is not thriving. I also have crazy hard water and I don't think it likes that.
Have you tried it in the pot with a root tab, just sitting on the substrate? I let mine convert for a week and after it showed improvement I planted.
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On 7/10/2021 at 1:19 PM, Dwayne Brown said:
That's amazon frogbit. I am not sure if you have it but it, but if you have a phone and download google lens it makes plant and fish id much easier. Don't trust it 00% but it narrows down the options and does a pretty good job of positively identifying stuff.
I had no idea it would, thanks!
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Opposite.
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On 7/9/2021 at 10:57 AM, SteveKing88 said:
In the tank I started a few weeks ago I have several south american plants. I'm planning on adding discus in a couple of weeks.
Discus keepers generally recommend temperatures around 86 F. That's higher than the recommended range for most plants.
How high can the temperature get before the plants start to suffer?Thanks,
Steve
I got this from @Acara Mom
I have a 100 gal high tech discus tank. I have some of these. They do great. Most of my other plants did not thrive until I added CO2 at 2 bps. I use easy green and root tabs with the fluval 3.
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On 7/8/2021 at 11:09 AM, Fresh said:
Hygger full spectrum. I've yet to buy a test kit so I'm unsure and I forgot what the last reading was
Get the coop test strips they're worth it.
I have 2 tanks that I keep around 20 ppm nitrate. And it goes crazy in there with low light.
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On 7/8/2021 at 10:29 AM, Fresh said:
Mine have no issue growing but are really showing brown leaves. It's been hard to maintain a mostly green look
What light and what's your nitrate level?
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On 7/7/2021 at 9:16 PM, Patrick_G said:
How low do you cut it?
I cut mine at the substrate. Then when those 2 grow up I cut them again right above the fork, so I end up with 4 stems coming from 1 stalk. I like really bushy plants.
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If you cut at the base it will 'bush out'. each time you'll get 2 sprouts from where you cut. Then replant the tops like Patrick said.
Dont be afraid to experiment with it. That stuff is super hardy.
I really like your rams.
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I vote a fluval 3. That's what I use on my high tech 5ft tank. Then you could add a coop light when they release. I will prob add one myself.
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I vote that you put a wyze cam v3 with a spotlight and have the siren set to sound with motion at night. So we can see the reactions. They would probably still get used to it.
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I have a great looking Bolivian ram, with an aggazi. I wish I could do gbr but have not had any success yet. I'll try again soon.
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I have 3 bumble bee cats in my discus tank. I love all catfish so I have oto, Cory's, a blue eyed lemon pleco, giant oto, and wood cats in quarantine.
The bees only come out at night. They hide all day in caves and under things. They eat ghost shrimp whole now. I have never seen them bother any fish, but when they were in quarantine they did eat all of my guppy fry. They also each have their own hide. They do not like to share caves. So you could do a single.
The biggest 1 is 3 inch now. They don't need a lot of space but a larger footprint would be better than a taller tank. Bees are more like ambush predators, they are just fine sitting in one spot waiting for food to come to them.
I have neon tetras as my smallest school fish and they don't bother them. Rasboras might be too small. But would be ok probably.
They are super cool, but you'll almost never see them. Get one!
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On 7/7/2021 at 5:53 AM, DaveO said:
I thought easy carbon is an algaecide not a fertilizer.
That's what I was getting at. Tabs plus flourish plus easy carbon is good. Easy carbon just allows plants to take in more instead of algae.
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On 7/6/2021 at 5:20 PM, Fenrir said:
Not sure if anyone here has done this before but I have some interesting local aquatic plants that I have thought about harvesting but not sure on the best method to quarantine/ sterilize them of pests and algae anyone here been successful?
If you think there is a reason to you can do the hydrogen peroxide dip. Or Leave em in a 5 gal bucket with some fertilizer to see if anything comes off.
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I would run the air 24/7. Are you using any liquid fert beside easy carbon?
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On 7/5/2021 at 1:13 PM, Phantom240 said:
Do those of you who have high tech tanks find you bottom out nitrates unless you dose?
No, still adding plants so that I can though. Im having to add everything but nitrates with my bio load.
Welcome back.
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On 7/3/2021 at 10:56 PM, Jennifer said:So, my tap water has a PH of 8.0. My betta and snails seem ok, but the neo shimp that have been in for many months (since Dec 2020) have gone from 11-13 to just 2 in the last 2 weeks. No bodies except 1 I found behind the tank (I assumed the mystery snail is eating them before I see a body, until I found the dried up shrimpie behind the tank). Now, I don't know if they are crawling out and dieing or dieing and being eaten. I thought I should try to address the PH in case that is why they are dieing or crawling out (ammonia, nitrates, nitrites all 0, tank has been cycled for almost a year). I bought some Seachem Acid Buffer, but I am nervous of using it. I have a planted tank btw, plants are all alive and ok, but not thriving, and growing extremely slowly. Any suggestions on how to safely use the buffer and get my 5gal back to a safer ph. Looking to get the ph closer to 7.2-7.4
That's my pH too. I don't adjust. I also had a few losses recently after I replanted some stuff. Some just don't make it. What temp are you keeping them at?
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On 7/3/2021 at 8:21 PM, NanoNano said:
There's a person that I've bought difficult to raise and keep Ericulons from that have been *beautiful*, so I trust their water choices. They have Sulawesi shrimp listed as being raised in these conditions- Ph:8.0 GH7-9 KH 3-4 and TDS 200-250. Looks like the same ball park...maybe even the same level and section.
I see people recommending using RO water and then remineralizing it, but the process of remineralizing to 8.0-8.5 seems time consuming and intensive. I can't see any of my LFS going through the drama, so I'd guess this is another indication that your/your LFS's water is close enough- maybe just needs a slight "tweak" of mineralization. I'd ask the store if they're wild bred or tank bred- many people indicate that the wild ones are more territorial and not as robust. One of the consistent experiences that I see is people stating their Sulawesi don't recognize commercial foods as "food" (they're live algae eaters in nature). Many people recommend keeping a species of Neocardina in with them to teach them to eat pellets/wafers/etc.
Good luck!
My water sounds perfect then, I didn't know I needed these shrimp.
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On 7/3/2021 at 8:38 PM, Acara Mom said:
Yes I started looking around for a list of plants for higher water temps. I posted a copy of a list from years ago but it sounded like someone knew what they were talking about. I’m going to gradually switch this tank out to some of those they listed and I have a few of them already. But it seems it doesn’t matter what I put in there until the algae situation is way improved. Hopefully, as I put many of these suggestions into action there will be some great improvementsBut it seems it doesn’t matter what I put in there until the algae situation is way improved. Hopefully, as I put many of these suggestions into action there will be some great improvements
Care to share that list, I've been meaning to do research instead of buying 1 of every plant.
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On 7/3/2021 at 1:48 AM, CT_ said:
the coop sight says Bucephalandra "Green Wavy" needs low light but I'd like to put it in a higher spot in my aquarium that probably gets medium to high light. Is that okay? Some sites say low to high is okay but I thought I'd see what people here's experience is.
Same question I have, just got mine 1st pot of buce in today.
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On 7/3/2021 at 2:13 PM, Ben_RF said:
In a lot of the sections of the United States what people actually get for their water is often far different from what water quality reports towns and cities often report. There is a lot of things that can play factors in that. This is one of the main reasons people who install water filtration systems will do their own tests on people's water supply verses trusting what is being reported.
Good point.
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On 7/3/2021 at 12:06 PM, sudofish said:
Here's a link to my city's 2019 report which is the latest released so far:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aU0WwgnPItRxwhKUThNr4wCJ_5Akwa6W/view
This is an unofficial report that I don't even know the accuracy of but here it is:
Looks like you have pretty soft water. I can't help you much more than that.
First aquarium with plants
in Plants, Algae, and Fertilizers
Posted · Edited by Randall from Texas
I like to leave my wood peices outside in the sun for weeks, helps speed up the process of leaching the worst of the tannins out and starts the sinking process.
Editing to say I leave outside in water in the sun.