Frank
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Posts posted by Frank
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I succeeded in making some arrangements, should my unfortunate demise occur. My fish, shrimp, and snails will be taken care of.
It wouldn't be right for them to starve to death, simply because I wasn't available to feed them.
Most people might not understand this concern, but I'm out here by myself. My family and friends are two thousand miles away from me.
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That sounds like an interesting idea! I hope that you'll keep us posted.
I don't have any ideas, but tank size and your actual planned temperature would help others.
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Cherry barbs? Lemon tetras?
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Didn't make it.
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2 minutes ago, xXInkedPhoenixX said:
Yeah the very little ones are super demanding. Glad that seems to be going good at least. They do sleep at night are they still saying to feed them then? I used to foster bottle baby kittens. Up every 2 hours not only to bottle feed (I had up to 6 at one time) you also have to make them poop and pee. Great for your sleep patterns, highly recommended. 🙃
The internet says that I can stop feeding overnight. I bet that I'd better be ready in the morning, though. I'm glad that I'm retired.
Thanks for helping!
I waited for a little while, before picking it up, but it's pretty chilly here.
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27 minutes ago, CalmedByFish said:
Hit up Google right away. They have to be fed *so* carefully with a syringe so it doesn't get into their airway. I've tried to save several of that age or a little older, and haven't succeeded with the safe feeding. Best of luck to both of you!
I'm using an official, Aquarium Co-Op pipette. He knows how to eat, already. I just hold it and he shoves his throat up around it. I'm probably squeezing it more slowly than he'd like, but I don't want to go too fast.
The internet says that I have to feed him every twenty minutes!!!
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The little guy was flopping around in one of my shrubbery beds. I haven't found a nest, yet.
He's in the bathroom at about 80°F. He's eating ground up, freeze-dried bloodworms mixed with water to a stew-like consistency.
Does anyone have better ideas?
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From what I've read, the lifespan of ember tetras can be as short as two years. Maybe they are getting old and the water change is enough to push them over edge?
How much water do you change each time? How frequently? What is the temperature differential between tank water and change water? What are the other parameter differences between tank water and change water? How much Easy Green are you adding? Are you adding other products?
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When I first got back into keeping fish, I was afraid of that. Even though it had never happened to me, nor do I remember seeing a tank leak.
I have s fifteen gallon tank and, at first, I wanted to put its stand inside of a twenty gallon tub.
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1 hour ago, SeverumKeeper said:
Thank you, this post is really helping this plant noob get an understanding of what is going on here.
If you happen to know of any good ones, do you have any introductory sources for someone who has had plants in their tank for a long time but never really took care of them, but wants to start?
Sorry, but we've reached the extent of my knowledge. That was just something that I learned when I was busy killing houseplants.
Other than that, I've learned that the lighting intensity and duration, that most on the forum recommend work for me. And, that the fertilizer dosing recommendations, on bottle labels, are just a starting point for me. I'm up to fertilizing at twice the suggested amount.
Good luck! There's lots of good advice on this forum.
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42 minutes ago, Irene said:
@Frank No way! Did you stop feeding BBS? Something must have happened. Mine is still going strong...
Now that you mention it, no I didn't stop. But, I'm being more careful about how much the fish get. Maybe that's it!
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If they go straight from green to transparent, the plant is getting nutrients from them. I'm not so sure about yellow ones. Once a leaf is fully transparent, all of its available nutrients have been used up. Then, cut it off. If a leaf is removed before it's used up, the plant will simply start cannibalizing the next leaf in line. Meanwhile, you're being bought time to figure out what the plant needs.
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I can't think of anything that I might have done, but it looks like it's going away on its own.
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9 hours ago, anewbie said:
If you are hatching bbs for frys I would recommend this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079C6BN2B
It has serveral advantages - you don't have to sep the bbs from the eggs; it produce plenty of bbs for a set of frys from one or two parents; it is easy to use. The thing is that the ziss unit looks much larger and designed for raising adult brine shrimp (which are too large for the frys) also you have to sep the shrimp from the eggs which mean you have to strain them.
That looks pretty cool! If they get more in, I might have to try one.
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I'm using one for 13 ember tetras, 11 green neon rasboras, and 2 scarlet badis.
250ml water, 2.25tsp aquarium salt, a pinch of baking soda, and 0.25tsp brine shrimp eggs. It lasts through three feedings in one day.
Yeah it's much bigger than I need, but it's simple and convenient.
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1 hour ago, Streetwise said:
Was this with or without a lid for each of you?
I took mine off the tank and set it on the floor.
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13 hours ago, CalmedByFish said:
Same: 24" - 34". 32 watt. Does your barely warm comment refer to when it's been at full brightness for hours?
It wasn't. But after 3hrs, with all colors at 100%, it wasn't hot enough to be uncomfortable.
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On 4/7/2021 at 4:37 PM, Irene said:
I have this exact same problem in my 10-gallon tank! My first guess is that perhaps the fish aren't eating all the live baby brine shrimp I feed every day, so there are leftovers in the substrate and then the fungus climbs upward from there. My second guess is that I have a lot of mulm buildup in that tank from the catappa leaves I keep adding to lower the pH. I haven't been adding as many leaves recently and I also did a lot of gravel vacuuming, and I noticed the fungus growth has decreased. Soooo, yeah... excess organics in the substrate of some sort is my current theory.
I can't wait for the "How to Get Rid Of" video.
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1 hour ago, CalmedByFish said:
Quick question. Is it normal for a Fluval 3.0 to get so hot that it hurts to hold your finger on the power button? (I just noticed this yesterday, after the light had been at full brightness all day. I don't know if it's happening when dimmer.)
What size is your light?
My 24" - 34", 32 watt light is barely warm to the touch.
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The fish generally do a good job of picking up fallen food. Today, they weren't interested, after yesterday's live baby brine shrimp. I picked up the food during cleaning.
The fungus, or whatever, grows on the glass just as well as on the rocks and gravel.
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Could anyone please identify the white stuff recently appearing in my tank? Are there any known remedies?
It's currently concentrated where I feed, but it's spreading.
I can easily remove it from the glass, but not from the substrate or rocks. It grows so quickly that I can almost watch it spread.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Parameters:
Temp: 74°F
Nitrate: 20ppm
General Hardness: 70ppm
Carbonate Hardness: 30ppm
PH: 7.2
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I don't have first-hand knowledge of this, but I've read that, in office buildings, the heat is lowered over night and on weekends.
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I didn't know that the forum was so young. In the future, I'll be able to say that I was here from the beginning.
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The first two look like cryptocoryne. Third picture looks like the "Windelov" variety of java fern.
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Fluval Plant 3.0 Scheduling and Programming
in Community Resources
Posted · Edited by Frank
I think that you're on the right track with the 25% starting point. My guess is that you'll end up at around 50%; maybe higher if you add floating plants.
Duration is important, as well. I think that most people are running their lights for eight hours. Mine is in a 12" tall, fifteen gallon tank. I'm running it for about 6hrs 20 min., at my highest settings, with very extended ramp up and down times.
If you wouldn't choke at the expense, I think that you'd benefit from having two lights.