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RovingGinger

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Posts posted by RovingGinger

  1. I give my mutts away via Craigslist and don’t ever separate out fry from the rest of the community tank. This plan for avoiding population increases would probably work better if I were a stingier feeder, but it does well enough and I still like seeing tons of little babies around. 

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  2. I have done both in a 5-6g (not together, at different times) and find the betta to be a lot more outgoing. My puffer mostly hid. He is cowardly, whereas I think the betta believes he could take me in a fair fight.

    I think I had 1-2 amano shrimp in with the puffer as his messy eating habits and lack of snails made the tank a mess.  I wouldn’t really have tried another fish in there, but in a larger tank he does fine with other fish. 

  3. Right now I have three female bettas in my 40 breeder along with a mass of live breeders and corys and a couple oddballs. I’d say it’s medium-planted but lots of hiding spots in the rock work and decor. I think all three are fairly young, they are all random cup bettas from petco and petsmart. So far, they pretty much ignore each other and all other fish aside from being interested in the smaller fry. I don’t know if this will work long term or if I will need to redistribute to other tanks so I have no useful advice other than to say I am tentatively trying this and seeing what happens. 
     

    The differences between fish are charming. To me, a betta is a large fish in a small package, from the way it acts to the way it seems to observe its surroundings. By contrast a molly is a small fish in a large package. Both charming but so different. I see the appeal of betta groups though, where else can you get such individual personalities and crazy color options? If I could keep males together I’d probably have 50 instead of 1 (I’m in no way brave enough to test any of that). 

    • Like 2
  4. I’ll try some MTS now that I have plenty to spare. Maybe try slipping them in at night while food goes on the other side of the tank or something to allow them time to sink and hide.

    Anecdotally looking at the empty shells in their previous tank I see fewer MTS than bladder or ramshorn by far so maybe there is hope. 

  5. I have yo-yos and American cichlids (blood parrot, severum, some cichlid parrots) in a 75 g. Snails don’t last very long. But I really like snails in a tank. Are there any snails with a higher potential survival rate? I have MTS I could put in, and I could obtain nerites - those are the two I’ve thought of so far. 
     

     

  6.  This thread has a lot of good answers in it. 
     

    this thread is documenting @Daniel’s foray into the Walstad methodology for substrate. 
     

    I have not yet been brave enough. I have used jars however to basically do movable mini-Walstad planters inside aquariums and those have worked. I like being able to change things easily if I need to. 

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  7. 12 hours ago, TomO said:

    I have very hard water. Will I be able to water change the tannins out of the water? I’m used to crystal clear tanks.

    Try adding some charcoal to clear it up and between that and water changes you’ll reduce the tannins pretty quickly. Spider wood doesn’t seem to have as long lasting a tannin does from what I’ve experienced. 

  8. I fed them daily usually, sometimes skipped a day. For bloodworms I melt a cube down and pour a few in each aquarium. They will not eat from the surface, and they prefer it if something floats by them in a lifelike manner. Kind of infuriating when you are used to fish that gobble food. I would go slow and drop a few worms in at a time to start. 

  9. Mine were freshwater, I did not add any salt and didn’t see any issues beyond losing one of the four early on (just disappeared, never found a body). I believe bumblebee gobies actually are several different potential species and some may be more inclined towards brackish. This was my type I think: 

    True-Bumblebee-Gobies-1_large.jpg?v=1508
    AQUATICARTS.COM

    * For the safety of our animals, we now ship live fish exclusively via UPS Next Day Air.  If your order contains...

     

    I have seen others come into petco or petsmart that had a sharper more pointed face and seemed to be a distinctly different species. 
     

    I always had them in with plants which seemed to be appreciated, they like to have things they can perch on. 

  10. I had best success with vibra bites and frozen bloodworms. They will pick at snails but can’t eat them as well as the puffer can. Oddly, my puffer now does great in the community tank but he is a coward and not very aggressive, plus is well fed on bladder snails. 

  11. My experience with bumblebee gobies was that they were aggressive and slow eaters. They nipped on guppies in the tank but left the pea puffer alone. They prefer live or wiggling food, so my worry in a community tank is that they would be underfed and then aggressive cos hungry. 
     

    I auctioned my three off rather than put them in a community tank but ymmv especially if you regularly feed live food. 

  12. On 10/28/2020 at 5:53 PM, Daniel said:

    🙂 I think that is blue-green algae pearling! It's funny, aquariums that are just a little bit shabby, some dead plant leaves, a little blue green algae make some the finest aquariums for breeding.

    And plenty of aggression in this tank too. Notice how ripped up the female's caudal fin is? In a natural state this is what it looks like, everything isn't perfect. But the system as a whole functions better because of the imperfections.

    I appreciated this as my angels have started to be aggressive with each other and I’m noticing missing, suspiciously bite-sized, chunks of fin. Lots of face offs and pecking. But I assume like chickens or dogs or anything else they are establishing order and testing their boundaries as they become adults, and hope that the quarreling is a sign eventually they’ll start pairing off. 

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  13. IMG_5971.jpg.14113af9d8d4c22c1056d0fa490ab425.jpg

    This is my fresh-from-the-tap test. You can see nitrates are pretty high - somewhere between 20-40 (I can never tell the difference).

    I also suspect I have high iron. My plants seem to grow red really easily, including guppy grass, under relatively inexpensive lights. Hair algae is by far the most prevalent type and seems to be basically unstoppable. I do not regularly dose with fertilizer at all. 

    I have not, so far, run into fish issues with this. My plants seem to grow pretty effortlessly. But I am mildly concerned and thinking I should maybe invest in actual well testing, and depending on the advice, an RO unit? 

    1774378752_ScreenShot2020-10-27at7_59_43AM.png.e7c5fdc594995fd54d7ac058028cb85a.png

    I was recommended the coliform/e coli bacteria and nitrates test at $50, wondering if there are others I should select. OR, do I skip a step and look at reducing nitrates since wherever they're at, it's probably above what's considered healthy for drinking water?

    We have a water softener that is not currently in use as well. Looking for just general advice on dealing with this.

     

  14. 2CA8207E-A304-4773-ADDD-49A2E554090E.jpeg.8742ed474a8fbcbd69f77b0d4140bdfe.jpeg

    This 12g gets less of my attention than it deserves. It has grown in nicely and even largely overcome a staghorn algae bloom. The back panel holds the filter and heater, which is handy because otherwise this tank would see very direct sunlight. As it is the plants that have rooted in the back portion grow very happily. 

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  15. I’m guilty of a lot of these. 

    Don’t normally quarantine (depends on source and destination tank and attachment to said fish in destination tank).

    Have never fully cycled an empty tank, usually add fish within 48 hrs. I have a few empty tanks now that are violating this rule but in general I’m starting a new tank with an existing filter and fluffy plants. 

    Variable acclimation, never drip. I change water much less than conventional wisdom would dictate (but I do test regularly). Most of my tanks have no substantial lid. Probably only half of my current lights are actual aquarium lights. I kinda think some algae looks just fine.

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  16. Pea puffer (hard to find right now), betta, honey gourami, sparkling gourami, maybe a ridiculously gorgeous guppy? All of them have the potential to chow on your shrimp but I don’t think you’ll be able to easily escape that. I would think the pea puffer would be most likely to cause carnage. 

    • Like 1
  17. Depends heavily on: 

    - other fish

    - filtration

    - planted or not

    - water change frequency 

    but the number is probably somewhere between 50-200? You can always build as you go with tetras (or even see if you can breed)! 

    • Like 2
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