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JettsPapa

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Posts posted by JettsPapa

  1. On 8/4/2023 at 10:55 AM, Rube_Goldfish said:

    Painting the back of the tank black would help from an algae standpoint, but wouldn't that increase the risk of uncontrolled heating from the sun? Because darker colors absorb (and conduct) heat?

    Get a piece of white poster board, cut it to fit, and paint one side black.  Tape it to the tank with the black side facing the tank.

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  2. On 8/4/2023 at 9:51 AM, Maximus said:

    Lots of their floating plants are only sold in the retail store and not online. I wonder if many floaters just don't do well in a sealed bag, or something like guppy grass just falling apart too easily. 

    Many floaters just don't ship well.  In my experience putting them in rigid containers or adding air to the bag so they don't get crushed can help.

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  3. On 8/1/2023 at 7:05 PM, nabokovfan87 said:

    . . . Once you hit 50 posts, the buy/sell/trade section opens up on the forums here.  Ultimately, if you want red, orange, or blue, I do think we got you covered here! (Just saying). You can always start there and try to make a WTB post. 🙂

    We have some very nice line back yellow ones also.

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  4. I haven't shipped swordtails, but I have shipped guppies and shrimp.

    1. The bag size depends on how many fish and how large they are, of course.  When I ship relatively large quantities I use 10" x 20" bags, and put up to around 16 guppies, averaging around 3/4 grown.
    2. You can approximately 1/3 water and 2/3 air, and I use half tank water and half fresh tap water.
    3. I insulate the box with 1/2" styrofoam on top, bottom, and all six sides.  I do this even in good weather, since it guards against sudden temperature swings.
    4. I always double-bag.  For the large round-corner bags I mentioned above I place the first bag in the second one upright and pack them standing up.  It's probably not necessary, but that minimizes the chance for leaks.  For smaller bags I invert the first bag in the second one, which eliminates corners that the fish could get stuck in, and ship them either upright or lying down.
    5. I enclose some live plant when shipping shrimp, but I don't put anything in the bag when shipping fish.
    6. I don't ship often enough to justify O2.  I just blow in the bags to get them as full as possible.
    7. I've always USPS Priority mail.  Most shipments arrive in 48 to 72 hours, but occasionally it takes one more day.  I rarely have deaths.  I ship on Monday, Tuesday, or Saturday.  Many people are hesitant to ship on Saturday, but the mail moves on Sunday just like it does any other day.  I've shipped packages from southeast Texas on Saturday that arrived in Ohio on Monday.
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  5. It doesn't have to be one or the other.  I have guppies in most of my shrimp tanks.  They may pick off a few juveniles, but they don't bother the adults.  If you have a store that will take the stuff you'd be surprised how much you can make selling plants, shrimp, and guppies from a single 10 gallon tank.  The key is to have a single strain of guppies that sells well (you won't get much for mutts), good quality shrimp (you will need to figure out what to do with the inevitable unsuitable color shrimp), and healthy plants that are packaged so they're ready to sell.

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  6. On 7/26/2023 at 11:56 AM, Tanked said:

     

    It would appear that I am over thinking this.  The original thought was to add shrimp to the 29 gallon planted community. The tank includes a UGF, side mounted HOB, SAEs and Tetras. There is enough flow to cause the some of the plants too sway slightly. The young Embers aren't deterred by the flow and the air driven UGF probably lacks the suction required to trap the baby shrimp.

    @Guppysnail Love the mini aquarium. If they can live in 60 degree water, than my no tech project tank might have occupants other than plants and pest snails..  

    I would strongly suggest covering the intake for the HOB.  There are sponges in several sizes made just for that purpose.  I usually buy one size smaller than recommended, even if I have to enlarge the hole a little bit.  When I get the recommended size they always seem to large and bulky.

    On 7/26/2023 at 12:51 PM, nabokovfan87 said:

    Once they get "too cold" their muscles start to stop functioning and they die. You'd want to keep them generally as close to 72-76 as you can for general purposes. The lowest I would take them is around 68. I would be ok with 65 as long as it is short term and not an extended period.

    If you're interested, I can try to find the research paper on this topic.  The last time I tried to find it, I do not think I was able to locate it. They have all sorts of low temp studies due to invasive species research.

    I'm not going to disagree with you, but that temperature must be pretty low.  I've had shrimp outside in 24" deep tubs continuously since the spring of 2022.  While the winters here in southeast Texas are mild compared to much of the country, we do get below freezing, and the tubs were frozen over solid for a day or two last winter.  While I'm sure it slowed their metabolism down when that happened, when the weather warmed up they were thriving.  I've seen reports from other people who've had similar experience with them.

    In my experience shrimp can withstand a wide temperature range, as long as it's gradual.  They can't handle sudden temperature changes.

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  7. On 7/25/2023 at 2:20 PM, Lillypad said:

    Hi! Thanks for your input! Here is some more information:

    my tap is right about 7. I like planted tanks with driftwood, but could do artificial decorations and crushed coral substrate for fish that like harder water. Ammonia and nitrites would be at 0, and nitrates around 10-20.

    I like schooling fish, but would rather have something a bit bigger perhaps? I know nothing to big can go into a 20 though. 
    I will research any fish that are recommended here to maintain their proper habitat.

    I am currently breeding and raising bettas at the moment. I don’t mind fish that will breed, but I will not be able to raise the fry, as bettas are lots of work.

    I like cichlids, because of their interesting behavior, so apistogrammas and the like. 

    The serpae tetras that I recommended above should be okay in your water, but since you said you were thinking of something a little larger and liked cichlids you might look into Bolivian rams.  My experience with them is limited, so do your research.  I'm not 100% sure they don't need a tank with a larger footprint.  A 20-gallon long would probably be a better option for them, but if you already have the tank, or don't have room for the larger base, you have to work with what you've got.

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    • You don't need the heater.  My shrimp do just fine outside, with the air temperature ranging from well below freezing to over 100° F.
    • I'd suggest adding some dense plants that will provide hiding places.  Pearl weed is a good one, especially if you keep it trimmed fairly short (and you can let the trimmings float, where they will form dense clumps).  Java moss is another good option.
  8. On 7/25/2023 at 8:59 AM, Tanked said:

    Basically water parameters are my biggest concern. Nitrates must: zero, low, >20 (I think they meant<20).  PH. ranged between 6.4- >7.  Sights seemed to prefer 6.8-7.2.  Temperatures ranged from 59-89 Fahrenheit.

    Water must be pristine.  Water should have leaf litter and plant matter, Water must be changed twice weekly. Water must be low flow.  Shrimp eat everything. Shrimp must have supplemental food.  Shrimp must have calm, peaceful tankmates like Tetras.

    We are already off topic, but I do have two questions: Are Shrimp compatible with: (1) SAEs, (2) under gravel filters?  This would eliminate the planted community tank.

     

    I can't help with either of the questions in the last paragraph, but if my experience will be of help on other issues I'll see what I can do.

    • My water consistently tests at 8.2 pH, and it's hard.  I have trouble differentiating between the colors, but GH is close to 300 ppm.
    • 40 ppm of nitrates aren't a problem.
    • I try to change around 30% of the water every week or ten days, but I don't always get to it.
    • I usually feed the shrimp only tanks two or three times a week.  The ones with fish get fed five or six days a week.
    • I add dead dry leaves to my tanks.  I believe it's helpful, but I wouldn't say it's essential.
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  9. On 7/24/2023 at 10:29 AM, Tanked said:


    Cost is a factor.  I tried Amano Shrimp once.  Bought locally @$7.50 each, they lasted 3 months.  I've haven't tried Neocaridna -yet.  The care info is contradictory.  The LFS price is similar to the Amano price from 3 years ago. I was checking other local sources just now.  If I drive an hour, one Big Box store might have Ghost Shrimp for $.59.  All other shrimp must be ordered!  A single amano or cherry would cost $5.40 plus $30. shipping:classic_ohmy:

    If I buy again it will likely be from Aqua Huna.  They are sold in lots of 8 -10.  Shipping included, most Neos will be well under $5.00

    What contradictory information have you seen?  I have several years of experience with them and may be able to help.

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  10. I wouldn't trust anything like you described.

    I'd keep looking.  It sounds like you're describing a lid for a 65 gallon tank, which has the same footprint as a 40 gallon breeder tank, but with the divider.  I know they make lids for 40 gallon breeder tanks because I have one.  I don't remember which brand it is, but I know I bought it from one of the chain pet stores.  Maybe you could ask a store to order one for you.

    Edit:  A quick Google search turned up one that's made by Aqueon.  It's about $35.00.

  11. I haven't googled the answer either, and I'm not a botanist, so this is just an old man speculating.  It's my understanding that most of the plants we grow fully under water in our aquariums grow differently in the wild, where they protrude out of the water at least part of the year.  I suspect that's when their flowers function to create and fertilize seeds.

  12. On 7/18/2023 at 10:15 AM, Miranda Marie said:

    Earlier this year, I saw someone make themselves a strainer of sorts that fit perfectly in the corner of their aquarium, below the lid, attached to the rim. It just stayed there, snug and secure, making adding water back into the aquarium very simple.

    Sadly, it was someone's personal project (with a 3D printer) so it's not available to the public as far as I know. But it looked so handy and useful! 

    If you can use a drill you can make something similar from a plastic or acrylic measuring cup.  Use the handle to hang it on the side of the tank and pour the water into it to prevent disturbing the substrate or plants.

    image.png.f50152bb0d2f8bbcb1f712a52c9d06de.png

     

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  13. Neon tetras seem to be much more fragile than in years past.  It's probably either weak genetics or the conditions they're raised in, or a combination of the two.

    It's my understanding that otocinclus for sale are all, or almost all, wild caught.  They often go too long without eating between being caught and reaching your aquarium, which can cause irreparable harm to their digestive systems.  If that hasn't happened they're just about bullet proof.  I bought three several years ago.  Two died within a day or two.  I took them back and the store replaced them.  Those two (or one of those and the original) died within another day or two.  I didn't try again.  The one survivor is still alive (or at least was several days ago), despite being moved at least twice.

  14. I sell plants grown under water, both to individuals and to stores.  You don't need to ship them in aquarium water.  That will just increase your shipping costs for no good reason.  Put them in a sealed plastic bag with a wet paper towel in the bag.  For root plants I like to wrap the paper towel around the roots, but for others just fold it up and put it in the tank.  I also like to blow some air in the bag.  It helps keep the plants from getting crushed during shipping.

    If you want to sell to stores, you will get less money, but it's a lot less headaches.  If you do want to sell to stores you will do best if the plants are ready to sell.  Have stem plants in bundles of at least five, with a plant weight near the bottom, moss and similar plants in a sealed clear container with a label, etc.

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