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Ken Dyer

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Posts posted by Ken Dyer

  1. Sounds like a good approach to me, not sure the root tabs will help a ton (but certainly shouldn't hurt) as well lit/fertilized pogo-octopus grows like a weed and then is typically topped/replanted. To me sounds like you have a lot there that loves fertilizer (pothos, duckweed, stems) and may not have enough to feed everyone.

    I'd make 1 change at a time and observe for a few weeks to learn which changes had the best returns for you. The great thing about pogo-octo is that it bounces back well from mistreatment so I would think you'd see the changes fairly soon (a few weeks after a change) 

  2. good morning @Calvin Allen and sorry to hear what is happening.

    Is the tank fairly new? Not seeing a lot of algae on the decor and the water looks slightly cloudy like you may be having a bacterial bloom.

    Were the fish quarantined and or medicated when you first received them? Looking at the close up pictures I am not seeing any redness around the gills which I often see with gill flukes. (Doesn't mean the fish may not have them, just I don't see the signs I normally do).

    With the issues you are seeing, and the rapid rate of mortality, I would typically do a large volume water change (~50%), dose with a dewormer and antibiotic (like paracleanse and EM Erythromycin) or salt if the former are not readily available to you. The follow the directions for the meds which would involve redosing and water changes.

    Best wishes for a speedy recovery for your fishy friends.

    (Also, once things are under control you may want to look into the requirements for the common pleco and the goldfish as they can outgrow a 55 gallon aquarium over time)

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  3. youch, I am not an expert but I would assume that is either a prolapse or a sign of internal parasites. Were the guppies de-wormed (general cure/paracleanse/similar treatment)? 

    If it were me I would move to a hospital tank and start with either salt or a de-wormer (or possibly both).

  4. I remember the same terror when I was getting started and all the horror stories you can find on the internet that anything but a "perfectly sterile" aquarium is going to harm your animals. Over time you'll come to enjoy or at least not fear the little bonus critters. Now I intentionally move pond snails to tanks and culture my seed shrimp / copepods as if their numbers drop I now panic over that and always want a colony somewhere else to go back to.

    Must say my sparkling gouramis are a big fan of little micro fauna as well... the same way I am a fan of a cheese burger 😉 

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    • Haha 1
  5. Can I just answer yes? 🙂

    They are sort of all my favorites for different reasons and scenarios. If you were to bend my arm I guess I would say flakes, er no pellets... yeah slow sinking pellets *ouch!* ok pellets. 😉

    Easy to target feed with a pellet, they don't break up in the container as much as flake, and some third thing?

    But like you, I feed all 3 and don't see that changing anytime soon.

    • Like 1
  6. I have tried a ton of different things, and researched a few others that I was too lazy to follow through on 😉

    The discontinued bin at Lowes/Home Desperate is not to be over looked. Several of my 20 longs have LED under cabinet lights on them that were only a few dollars each on clearance. Cheap 3-4' LED shop lights also work (but I find the color of the light to be to yellow). Chicken brooder lights at a farm supply store with "daylight" LED bulbs also work for spot lighting areas that you want more light.

    Zip ties, screws, and ingenuity when it comes to mounting. Just take a look at what you have to work with and find what you like is my suggestion. Zip ties are easy to tighten or clip so you can move a light around, screws are a bit more secure but a tad harder to adjust 😉

     

  7. I'm certainly no plant expert, so take what I say with a big old grain of salt 😉

    To me that looks like algae on the leaves. Maybe turn down the intensity or duration of the light for a week or two and see if that makes a difference? Or add an otto to help keep the leaves clean?

    Just my thoughts,
    Ken

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  8. I also tend to need about 36-48 hours to get a good hatch (room ~76 degrees F, plus a lightbulb on the hatcher). I haven't cracked open my coop brine shrimp eggs yet but assume they will be about the same.

    So you may need to give them another 12-24 hours before they really start going. The nice part is the hatch time seems to be pretty consistent so once you know your approximate hatch time it does get easier to plan around 🙂

  9. A little less water will help it hold together better. And my guppies take a while to realize it is on the bottom, they are spoiled rotten and expect the food to float. They also used to be confused by green beans, but after a few tries and a fast day they took right to both for me. 

    As with all things though your mileage may vary!

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  10. Just wait until you go to move or trim a plant and one of those amanos has grown into a 3 inch monster and grabs onto your hand. I may have peed a little when that happened...but pretty sure it was just tank water all over me when I freaked out.

    If you don't see them for a few months, they are likely just waiting to prank you 😉 

    • Haha 2
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