quikv6
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Posts posted by quikv6
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I TBSP per 5 gallons would be a good start, especially for livebearers like Mollies. I have never used PH-up. Large fluctuations in PH/PH crash can also cause stress and issues. I have no experience with a water softener, but perhaps the hard tap water would be really ideal for your livebearers.
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It sounds like you have an immature biofilter, and a tank that may not have completed it's cycle. Meds such as Maracyn can further impact an immature biofilter. Being these issues were most likely due to the nitrite spike and associated stress, I think maintaining clean, fresh water is the best solution, along with some aquarium salt. Small, daily water changes may be your friend for awhile.
Also, I don't believe you mentioned GH/KH....but Mollies generally thrive in harder water with minerals.
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What method do you use to keep all of those axolotl tanks cool, may I ask?
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On 8/1/2022 at 1:20 PM, CharlieB55 said:
Hello all!
Getting back into the hobby after decades away. I'm setting up a 20 long - old school style: UGF, unplanted, etc. It's going to be in a basement which tends to be on the cool side. I'm very interested in your new 100W heaters and was would like your opinion(s) on the idea of setting up two of these, one on each of the short sides of the tank. I was thinking that this would provide more even heating and also a little redundancy in case one of the units fails.
BTW, I personally like the end-of-life warning feature.
Thanks!
Hey Charlie...welcome back to the hobby. The idea of a 2 heater tank is a good one, especially to act as a failsafe if one fails in the off position. (Heaters can fail in the on position two, which is where an Inkbird contoller can be a lifesaver.)
As for 2 - 100W heaters in a 20 long, I think that may be significantly more than you need. I have an ACO heater in a 125 gallon, 6 foot tank. The basement is in the mid-upper 60's. The single 100W does a great job on its own maintaining 77-78 degrees. Given your 20 long is 1/6th the volume, I think a single 100W will be more than enough (or 2-50 watts of a different brand).
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So I'd say that it depends on the size of the tank you are refilling. I have an axolotl, and the tap is way too warm. My target is 60 degrees. I add a bunch of ice cubes from the fridge ice maker to an empty 5 gallon bucket. I then fill the 5 gallon bucket with tap water, and dechlorinate as it fills, and as the ice cubes melt.
Result: Viola....60 degree water. Pretty simple.
Now, If you were refilling a 125 gallon tank.....that's a different story.
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I think the bucket with USB air pump is a great suggestion. If the tank has a small sponge filter, you can use that or a small airstone.
In regards to keeping a glass tank with any amount of water on your lap while driving.....I would not suggest that, for obvious safety purposes. If you are not driving, I suppose it would work, though the bucket will be easier to manage, especially if you have a lid. You can partially fill it (about 1/3), and drop an airline through a small hole in the lid. Then seal the lid, and you should be good to go. An hour is not bad at all. Good luck!
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I've observed improvement after 48 hours or so, but that is just a casual observation. I never had to retreat after the second go-around.
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I have had to use Flubendazole on the same fish on different occasions. I try to do 3 doses during the initial treatment for wasting. I believe I just dosed twice in the scenarios mentioned. A month or two later, I did need to treat that fish again.
I have found Flubendazole to be a fantastic, fast acting med for wasting disease. To me, it works far better than Levamisole specifically when the fish is not eating at all, or can't swallow.
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Ich-X is a great treatment, and is very effective. One thing to mention is to make sure you treat for 3-7 days AFTER the last sign of visible ick on the fish. This way it doesn't have a chance to come back, based on the parasites life cycle.
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You need to raise your PH some (slowly, with crushed coral as suggested) as the tank will be difficult/slow to get cycled at a PH of 6. Also, since the PH dropped so significantly from your tap of 8, it may indicate a lack of KH (buffer.), KH can stabilize PH. I am assuming you havent tested for KH, but if you have, I am guessing it's very low. Crushed coral will help here as well.
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I have an Oscar in a 125 currently with 4 Sponge Filters and a HOB, but had originally had him in a 40 long with 3 Sponge filters. While I do think the 2 large Sponge filters will be enough, keep in mind Oscars are very messy fish. You may want to keep the 2 sponge filters and add a small HOB (or even a box filter) with lots of filter floss for polishing.
A 90 is also pretty tall, so make sure you have a sufficient air pump, given the depth of the tank. By the way....I think you will LOVE the Oscar and the personality that comes with one.
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So in my opinion, 200W will be PLENTY given the average room temp. (I would personally do it with 2-100W heaters, though....for safety, in case one fails).
I just set up a 125 6 foot tank recently. My room temp is 69-70. I threw a single 100W heater in it. It took a while to heat it to 78-79, but it is holding like a rock. I never thought a 100W would be sufficient for a 125, but it is doing great. Given you have half the amount of water and double the wattage, I think you will be just fine. In fact, you could probably go less.
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You can also use Bar Keepers Friend, and rinse well.
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No, I think you are confusing brands with the actual medications. Fritz makes Paracleanse (The API General Cure equivalent), and Expel-P for Parasites. Expel-P is Levamisole and treats different parasites than Paracleanse. Paracleanse (and General Cure) is Metronidazole and Praziquantel, if I remember correctly.
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I am sorry you lost your fishes. How long has the tank been established? You said nitrate is 5, but sometimes 0 can be mixed up with 5, pending the test. If it is zero, the tank may not have completed it's cycle.
Extra aeration is a great idea, as suggested by someone earlier.
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Looks like Sunken Belly/wasting disease. Levamisole (Expel-P) or Flubendazole can treat it.
Getting the GH up at bit for livebearers is a good idea. They won't argue with some salt as well.
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Maracyn usually is good for the popeye, but not always fin rot, as it could be caused by a gram negative bacteria. Kanaplex or Maracyn 2 would be appropriate meds that can treat gram negative bacteria, and you can also add salt as well.
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I have a small hospital tank set up, so I just treat any fish that exhibit these wasting symptoms. I don't treat unless I witness the symptoms. I am really glad they are eating and managing to keep the food down. Try to fatten them up and bring them up to speed now.
Personally, I have had better luck with Flubendazole (especially when the fish isn't eating or spitting), even though Levamisole seems to be the first recommendation for wasting.
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I think it's a combination of the small amount of the new digs, the small amount of ammonia, and mainly, the fact that you have soft water. Livebearers really want a higher GH and KH. You can supplement GH/KH with Crushed coral, Seachem Equilibrium (or replenish), and Wonder shell.
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I know this is stressful. But, in my opinion, you should not be changing a filter cartridge when you are having ammonia issues. It is just going to set you back further from regaining the cycle. Ultimately, cartridges are a marketing thing. Eventually, it would be wiser to et some course sponge in there. It's nearly permanent, and all you have to do is rinse it in tank water when it needs it. (Not too often.)
Prime can help detox any ammonia for up to 48 hours. You can also dose up to 5x the recommended dosage for dechlorination.
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Good Luck...keep us posted!
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Update: I decided to go with a pretty big tiger Oscar. He was in a tank with some bigger fish, and certainly held his own, if not ran the tank.
Result: Destruction.
After introducing the Oscar, I watched them for an hour, and nothing more than some minor interest and following from the Leporinus. They then went to opposite sides of the tank, and seemed to relax. I left the lights off for them to get comfortable. It was a new tank for the Oscar, and the Leporinus has not been with another fish in many years.
I got an SOS text video from work collegues with an intense fight. The Oscar got his ______ handed to him. Pretty bad. I hustled back to the location. The Oscar was not moving, wedged into a corner behind the heater. He had lots of scale damage, and nipped fins. He really looked terrible.
I bucketed him, and brought him home. He is currently in a 20 gallon (i know...I know....my only spare tank), w/ salt and clean water. He looks a bit better today, and has started moving around again. I am hoping for a recovery, but I have nowhere to keep him permanently.
And I am back at square one for a tankmate for the Leporinus. Perhaps he just wants to be alone.
(The picture is of the Oscar in the new tank....before Round 1. The suspect is pictured as well. )
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48 hours, roughly. I add it to the water column, and try to put some in the food. In all cases, the fish was always trying to eat, but the parasite didn't let the fish swallow, resulting in spitting.
Usually after 2 days, I noticed the fish can start keeping food down.
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I have used flubendazole many times, though I don't have shrimp, so I can't speak to that part of it.
It has been hands down the best treatment I have found for wasting disease in fish that aren't eating, or spitting food. I generally done have 3 doses total, 3 days apart for each dose, with a 50% water change before the redose.
Make sure to really do your best to dissolve the med.....it isn't very soluable, and somewhat difficult to work with. But it works....and works well.
Tail Fin Rot Suggestion
in Diseases
Posted
You are absolutely right in regards to fin progression. Sometimes you can only observe progress by the fact that it's not worsening.
Personally, I use a fixed amount of baking soda to raise the PH, though I recommend crushed coral to raise the KH (and in turn, PH). It lends itself to stability overall. I think it would be a good idea to see what your GH and KH is and then go from there.