quikv6
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Posts posted by quikv6
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How long did you continue Ick-X for AFTER last visible white spot observed?
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I actually have 8 co-op heaters. All except the one 50w were spot on with the Inkbird. I had zero issues with it being inaccurate....but the inaccuracy did change for the worse as the months went by. It did not stop me from ordering 2 more co-op heaters. I hate the logo on them, but the new generations look to be green, and it blends in much better.
As for the Inkbird....again....it's not the way I prefer to do things. I don't shut my appliances by unplugging them when they are on. I hit the "off" button. I realize heaters can be slightly different, as they are also thermostat-dependant, but it's just the way I like to do things.
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I respectfully don't like using the Inkbird that way. I much prefer to use it as a failsafe rather than a controller. While I have never heard about an Inkbird failing, I'd much prefer to have three layers of protection against failure (Heater #1 / Heater #2 / Inkbird) vs. One (Inkbird).
It also lets me ensure the accuracy of the heaters' adjustment. I have had one heater (a first gen Co-op 50w) that was 3.5 degrees off out of the box. Regardless, I used it, and after a few months it started to become inaccurate by 5-6 degrees. If I had just maxed out the heater and let the Inkbird do the work I doubt I would've caught this discrepancy.
Different strokes for different folks. That is one thing that is great about this hobby.
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I use an Inkbird as a failsafe, and let 2 Co-op heaters do their job. I have one set for 77 and the other set for 75 (in case the 77 heater fails to turn on). The 75 heater has almost never turned on, except the occasional colder water change.
It is now flashing "EL", even though it was barely ever on. I must say, that in itself is a bit frustrating.
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What is your GH? Livebearers tend to want things on the harder side.
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Flubendazole would also be worthwhile to try. I have had better results with it versus levamisole specifically when a fish isn't eating. As for food, my EBA loves live earthworms. A small one may be a good option. Keep us posted.
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Hey Elyse,
I can speak to this one: I have a 125 with two (2) of the original Co-op 100w heaters. I have one set to 77, and one set to 76... both on one Inkbird.
The tank maintains 77.5 degrees without a hitch. In fact, the one set to 76 never turns on unless it's during a water change. I keep the room cold as well (about 65) because I have an axolotl tank in addition. So a room temp of 62 should be manageable with the two 100W heaters.
Now... for my personal "cons" on the co-op heaters, which may be good food for thought:
1) The blazing red temp display is distracting, and to me, is a personal eyesore. I use an Inkbird, so I really wish there was a way to turn the display off.
2) The suction cups...welp... they could be better. I have cleaned the glass; straightened the cord to avoid tension.... and for me, they just don't work.
3) I don't think this applies to the newer versions, but one of my heaters flashes "EL" which means end-of-life. Ironically, it's the one that never kicks on. It's barely ever been on. Not only is that a bit frustrating, but the flashing is incredibly annoying. The day the flashing started, my big Oscar moved the heater all the way across the tank. (Suction cups definitely didn't work.) He had never done that before, so I guess the flashing drove him mad too.
Anyways...food for thought. Good luck!
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Sometimes the biggest obstacle is oneself. It can get very easy to get caught up overthinking things.
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I have soft water, and mollies/platies. I use crushed coral in the tank, and when I do large waterchanges, I buffer the new tap water with baking soda to bring up the PH to match the tank water.
While it's a bit of a pain, it has been a solid method for me, and avoids any drastic PH changes with large water changes.
If you go this route, I encourage you to test how much "X" amount of baking soda raises the PH of your water in "X" volume of tap water. I found it easy to use a 5 gallon bucket, and then you can do the math from there, depending on how many gallons your waterchanges are.
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How long has the tank been set up? Nitrate at 0 may indicate an immature biological filter. If this is the case, ammonia/nitrate may spike, especially if you've added all of those fish at once.
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Yes, aragonite will defintely work. Just keep an eye on the PH to see how much it ends up raising it until it stabilizes. My mollies and platys seem to thrive in harder water, so I think this is a solid move for you.
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Have you tried PraziPro? I have used that for flukes and external symptoms, and have used it successfully in conjunction with Ick-X. It is a good med to initially treat new fish with, and pretty mild as well.
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You could also use Seachem Replenish, which is the liquid version of Equilibrium (with more salts.). It basically dissolves instantly. The crushed coral is a great idea in addition.
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Regardless of how you use the Inkbird, as a controller or dedicated failsafe, Pepere makes a great point about checking the heater calibration first. I have generally switched most of my heaters over to the Co-op heaters. I think I have 5 running. 4 are spot on and match the inkbird exactly. One (the lone 50W) is 3.5 degrees off steadily. I have to leave it at 80 to maintain 76-77. It's not a big deal at all, but knowing is half the battle.
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I use my inkbird differently as above, which sounds like it is being used as a controller, and not just a failsafe.
Personally, I let the heater itself so the work, and set the inkbird about 2 degrees higher than the heater. In this scenario, the inkbird will act as the true failsafe if a heater sticks on, but will not do the actual governing of temp otherwise.
I also use 2 heaters, but set one lower than the other. This way, only one is really doing the work, and the other is the "failsafe" if the main temp on fails to kick on.
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It may sound cliche..... but I thought really liked keeping fish.....and then I got an Oscar. Boy, do I love it. He's actually a pet, similar to a cat or dog. my enjoyment really grew. I know alot of folks have them, but they are just so darn easy to like.
With that being said, mine is a big ol' boy, and I would consider a 75 gallon too small. I really feel a 6 foot footprint would be necessary for an adult Oscar.
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....And why are your nitrates 0? Is this a newly setup tank that has not cycled yet? If so, you may develop some ammonia and nitrite, both of which can kill fish.
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Your tank looks to have not finished (or started) cycling, given it has only been up for 2 weeks, and there are 0 nitrates.
Please keep a close eye on ammonia, as that can increase rapidly now that you have the presence of fish in the tank. Be sure to follow the instructions for the ammonia strip, as they are different than the multi-strip.
It would be smart to have some Prime (or similar ammonia binding dechlorinator) on hand. Be ready for some partial waterchanges as well.
As for them hanging out at the bottom, they could be stressed from the move, and perhaps their water that they came from was different than yours and are undergoing an acclimation period. From your GH/KH/and PH on the strip....you should be totally good to keep the mollies successfully!
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Welcome to the forum. What are your water parameters specifically? (PH/GH/KH) in addition to Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate?
How long has the tank been established?
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I'd follow up with clean, ammonia-free water. Even though your level of ammonia is relatively small, it could cause issues, or exacerbate existing ones.
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I agree with Adam fully in regards to upping water changes.
I recently had a Molly get stuck between 2 rocks. I think she was there a full day. She was quite torn up, patchy, and very stressed. Progressively, within 3 days of finding her, she lost all of her tail. Yes...all of it.
I did meth Blue dips 3x a day, and changed 50 percent of the hospital tank water daily, with 1 TBSP per 2 gal salt. I also kept her in a breeder box at the top, so she didn't have to swim much.
Within 3 days, you can see her tail starting again, clear. It did take about a month, but her tail came back fully. I did the 50 daily changes for about 2 week or so. I never thought the fish would make it, and very glad she did.
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To me, the best "med" for fin rot is extremely clean water, with some salt. I would recommend a 50% waterchange everyday. You can add back in the salt daily that was lost due to the waterchanges. I think a TBSP per 3 gallons would be a good start. Being your tank is 2.6, you can just start at one tablespoon for the tank. If you do a 50% waterchange, add 1/2 TBSP of salt back in each waterchange.
Make sure to temperature match the new water to the tank water.
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Hey Goldie Girl,
If you are going to continue the Methelyne blue baths (which I think you should), then I don't see a need for the Ick-x. Generally really bad fin/body rot is bacterial, and if it does cause a secondary fungal issue, the meth blue should take care of it.
I would continue the Kanaplex for a dose regimen or two.
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Here's what helped my experience with body rot, where the tail was completely gone.
1) Methylene dips for 30 seconds, 2-3 times a day. I let the fish rinse of in a separate "rinse" container of her tank water. Then, a few mins later, I returned the fish (a Molly) to her tank. I kept her in a small breeder box so she wasn't bullied or physically bothered by other fish.
2) Kanaplex in the food AND the water column.
3) Daily water changes, with salt added. (About 1 tbsp/ 2 gallons).
Her tail has grown balk about halfway, and she eats like a horse. I stopped all meds and cut down the salt a bit. I do still do daily 50% waterchanges, as it's a small hospital tank. CLEAN water is key.
Ich incurable
in Diseases
Posted · Edited by quikv6
@Fishinsinsation
That may certainly be the issue. The parasite is still alive in the tank after it falls off the fish. The lower the temp, the slower the life cycle and phases. You can only eradicate ick in one of it's phases. (I believe it is after they multiply, hatch, and are free-swimming looking for a host)
I believe the directions are to treat for at least 3 days after there are zero visible signs of ick on a fish. Personally, I do a full week AFTER the last visible sign. But I also do this at 81 degrees, which speeds up the life cycle. If you are at 75, I would do longer than a week.