Jeremy Shives

I figured this out for anyone reading this old post looking for answers, I hooked the reactor up wrong (incoming water going in the wrong port) My CO2 is working currently 👍

Ha I'm currently running around 10pmm nitrates and some plants seem to still need root tabs even after 4 months

I'm looking at removing my existing sump from my 190 and making my own from a 40B. I'm currently using a saltwater sump and it's not working that well for removing materials in the water, and the sock filter clog instantly. Im trying to plan it out well before I build it. A few questions I have are, I'm currently using a reactor for the CO2, it works but I'm wondering if two atomizers (one per return line to the tank) would work better. If I do the atomizers for CO2, would it be better to put them after the check valves to stop the siphon effect with pw outages. I'll get a kit from Amazon for the baffles for the sump anyone have any recommendations on brands or set ups? Also trying to keep the refugium area if possible for shrimp.

I'm running a reactor for my pressurized CO2 on my 190 gal tank. I think my bubbles per min is around 25 or so. I can not see a pH swing or signs that the CO2 is making it into the tank. The reactor has its outflow going into the intake of the main pump and I'm wondering if the impeller for the main pump is breaking up the CO2 and it's off gassing. The CO2 reactor is running 300 gal/hr and the main pump is 900 gal/hr, my question is if I plumb in the CO2 outflow inline with output of the main drive pump, what kind of one way check valve would i need that can stop the main drive pump from back filling the CO2 reactor.

Just trying to get it to show something, on all the tanks I've ever owned it's always showed zero for everything (ammonia, Nitrite, nitrate) so just trying to increase it. I've had successfull plant tanks before but never anything this large. I haven't looked at the expiration dates on the chemicals, also running CO2 so that might play a factor in some readings.

Im trying to achieve 10ppm of nitrate bc I have a heavily planted 190 gal tank, I check my levels one hour after dosing 20ml of easy green and I have zero nitrates. Now dose that mean my plants have consumed it all. I have a health amount of green/brown algae forming all over the tank. I'm not trying to eliminate the algae totally (I have algae eaters and I'll manually remove some) but I do want to make sure my plants get enough ferts.

I have a question, so those of you with big tanks that house small fish (tetra, barbs), how do you keep them from getting pulled or swimming into the over flows? I tired a dyi cut up tank divider and it clogged up with in 24hr and starved the sump of water.

I am but I did just purchase a drop checker for redundancy checking, I plan on measuring pH drop and the drop checker. I'll try other methods on the side but mainly those two. The post was trying to see if there was any other methods besides the common ones that I was missing.

Hey I've been trying to find a reliable way to measure my CO2 level in my 190 gal planted/dirt tank. I have an external reactor and the trying to figure out to best bbm for it. I know there's a lot of variables in determining CO2 because plants constantly absorb it but there has to be a way to measure it besides pH drop or growth rates or bbm? Or I am just searching for a solution to a problem I don't have?

So looks like easy green has higher quantities of stuff in it other then calcium. I'll just stay with easy green, thanks for the help

I went to aquascella Daytona this past weekend and was buying plants from Dustins tanks. He seemed all butt hurt over me using easy green. Was suggesting I way over dose with easy green because it's not as strong as his liquid fertilizer "growth juice". I've had success with easy green but since the plants I purchased where used to his stuff do I need to change to his? Is there any real difference in the two?