Arnam Anan
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Posts posted by Arnam Anan
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I de-gased tap water for 24 hours, and stayed the same at about 6.4 pH.
As for crushed coral, I heard Cory and Bentley both suggesting it as a supplement substrate for softer water. As my Kh is zero, use that as a buffer. Just to make it clear, I use crushed coral in substrate and not add more during water change. In your opinion, what is the best way to buffer Kh? If I don't use crushed coral and use baking soda, wouldn't that tank be more susceptible to pH swings and pH crashes? I keep fish in both tanks and feed daily. Thanks.
On 3/30/2024 at 6:18 PM, Seattle_Aquarist said:Hi @Arnam Anan,
Thank you for the additional information. Is the pH of 6.4 the tap water or your tank water or out of the tap? If tap water is still that reading after allowing it to de-gas for 24 hours? I very much discourage the use of crushed coral (calcium carbonate) in increase pH since it is impossible to control the dissolve rate it adds a substantial amount of calcium to the water as it dissolves Not only does it increase the pH to levels that can effect nutrient uptake but it can impact the calcium:magnesium (Ca:Mg) ratio. Using sodium bicarbonate (aka baking soda not baking power) allows much easier control of the pH and does not effect the dGH or Ca:Mg ratio.NYC gets water from two different watersheds, and a multitude of different reservoirs, aqueducts, and pipelines. It is very like that depending upon the source being utilized the water analysis may vary frequently. Here is the most recent NYC water quality report, the water analysis is about 2/3 the way down the .pdf. -Roy
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On 3/30/2024 at 2:08 PM, Seattle_Aquarist said:
Hi @Arnam Anan,
Do you have any water parameter and nutrient level parameters you can share?
-RoyNYC tap water.
PH: 6.4-6.8
Kh: 0 (buffered using crushed coral to 3-4)
Gh: 0-25 ppm ( buffered using Seachem Equilibrium to ~ 200 ppm)
Nutrients: Easy Green ~4 pumps twice a week in 10 gallon tank and ~20 pumps in 55 gallon tank.
Let me know if you need any other info. Thanks.
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Hello nerms!!!
I think I am having some issues with plant growth.
If you see the photo, the older leaves are 2 to 3 times bigger whereas the new growth is really small. I noticed the same with my anubias plants (congensis, nana, and nana petite) as well. The leaves look healthy otherwise. Is there something I am missing? I dose Easy Green and have the Co-op light at 50%. Another tank with Hygger 24/7 at 100%. I dose quite heavily 3-4 times the recommended dose twice a week. For anubias plants, I assumed they were grown out of water and submerged growth is smaller compared to emarsed growth. But after getting bigger salvania recently, they also turned small in my tank. Thanks in advance.
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WARNINGS:
1. DO NOT Perform the following troubleshooting actions if your Aquarium Air pump is still under warranty. It WILL void the warranty.
2. Do it at your own risk. The Author or this forum shall not be liable for any damage caused by following procedures.
Step 1: Unplug and turn off the air pump. Take all 4 screws from the back casing. #2 Phillips Head Bit
Step 2: Flip the back portion to expose the internals of the device. Inspect all wiring and 4 white Lego connectors connecting to the circuit board. Inspect for general wear and tears, especially around the magnet rubbing against the motor, corrosion, water damage, battery leakage, etc.
Caution: Do not rip open the wirings when trying to flip the back casing.
Step 3: Pull out both plastic housings with diaphragm. It should be snug-fitting housing and should require little to no force to pull out.
Step 4: You can separate the diaphragm and the housing by lifting the edge of the diaphragm. Inspect the diaphragm, metal bracket, and the tightness of the screw. The diaphragm should be malleable and not have any cracks or be hard/dry. The diaphragm can be purchased on Amazon but you will have to research the size.
Step 5: Inspect the plastic housing. Take out the black rubber piece and the white rubber flap. For me, the point of failure was the white rubber flap. I would assume that happened because of too much back pressure. cleaned it off and put everything back together to fix the issue. To put everything back, follow directions in reverse chronological order.
Suggestions for makers:
1. make the housing bigger by an inch. Will accommodate a bigger motor and another battery for extra power.
2. make the battery removable. Can be done quite easily. Not only that, the User can also replace and order with or without batteries.
3. I would also highly consider if this product is actually needed in the hobby. Here is solar solar-powered battery backup air pump for Pond that produces a lot more air from its single outlet compared to the co-op duel outlet air pump. For comparison:
1. Power: Both air stones provided with this no-name air pump were powered by the single outlet of this air pump for about 2 days on its medium power settings. The aquarium co-op duel outlet air pump failed to produce air from these slightly bigger airstones even when I combined both outlets to produce air from a single air stone.
2. Solar: It has a solar panel, but I think it's garbage. I tested in the winter months. So, there's that. But I still think that's a gimmicky feature. Non-existing in Co-op air pumps.
3. Battery Backup: Lasted a little bit less than 2 days in its medium setting. In power saving mode, advertises to last 96 hours but in my testing, about 3 days. The co-op air pump did not last a day in power-saving mode.
4. Accessories: Comes with two air stones, ~ 5 feet of airlines, and a Charging cable; no power adapter was included. Warranty nonexistent and/or not sure. The co-op air pump does come with a power adapter and newer versions are rumored to come with all the accessories listed with the no-name brand air pump and as a bonus 1 year of warranty. However, I ordered two co-op air pumps earlier last year and didn't get the airstones and the airlines.
5. Build Quality: I have not opened up the no-name air pump (Because still running), so can not describe the internal component. The outside casing for both is on par with each other. I like the rubber feet of the co-op air pump more compared to the silicone bead feet on the no-name one. The metal hook in the back for hanging the air pump hangs out on the no-name pump, so you can use the hook or to use the feet, you will have to take the hook off. The co-op pump lets you use either the hook or feet without removing any hardware.
6. Specs:
No- name: solar panel = 5v/1w, Adapter Input= DC 5v/1A Micro USB, Battery=3.7v 3600mAh Max air: 1L/min
Co-op Pump: power consumption = 2.1 W , Max air = 1.6 L/min air flow, Adapter Input=5V USB-C ( From co-op website)
7. Price: I feel like this is a tricky bit. No-name is marketed as 30 USD but is often discounted for way less. I purchased mine for 16~17 USD. Duel outlet now selling for 40 USD.
Disclaimer: I do not make a single penny by promoting either of these products. I am simply trying to make a better hobby for everyone. All are written from my observation only. I am also not including any links to either of the products. Thank you for reading and feel free to share your experience and feedback.
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On 2/5/2024 at 11:25 AM, Buckman said:
Do you feed black worms to fish? This may be where the leeches came from. I breed mystery snails in a 20 gallon long that is only half full of water. The substrate is a thin bed of crushed coral. I found this to be the perfect setup for growing black worms as well, so now my snails and black worms live together. The leeches wound up proliferating and getting creepy though. Fish eat them too, but I don't like putting my hand in there. They were getting big with all the food I was chucking in there to breed snails. They will eventually get big enough to become a deadly parasite on a snail. If your black worms come from an outdoor farm, having leeches is unavoidable. But I was able to separate a decent sized sample of black worms from this tank, and make sure that no leeches were present. I tore down the tank and re-started the colony, and now I have black worms on tap with NO leeches present.
Hope this helps? Was wondering why you were purposely putting leeches in a small container with snails. What were you trying to figure out?I mean I wanted to see if leeches were as deadly as the the internet seems to think. So far, I would say they are mostly harmless might eat 1-2 snails a month but snails reproduce way faster.
I personally don't mind leeches and I have seen fishes eating them. To me, they are another food source for the fishes.
I don't really feeds store bought black worms. I culture them about once in a month from a 5 gallon bucket setup.
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January 30th
Restarted the experiment again. I say restarted, but it's more like 100% water change and removed dead snail shells for a more reliable count for the next month. Counted 17 leeches on there and 6 snails still alive. There's 2 clutches of snail eggs in there too.
Expectation: 4-5 snails will be alive and possibly another boom and bust cycle of leeches.
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December 31, 2023.
Almost 2/3 population of leeches died of in a day. Water has been slowing losing the green water algae and clearing up. I suspect that was the cause of the die off. All live snails are still alive in there. I also noticed that leeches prayed upon the snail egg clusters but did not attack any live snails in this period. Though I did see those leeches on top of some of the snail shells.
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On 12/24/2023 at 12:50 PM, BuzzDaddy21 said:
What size is that tank and how many other do you have?
Thank you.
That's a 55 gallon tank. I also have a 10 gallon and 5 gallon tank.
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You get a bonus point 😀
On 12/21/2023 at 5:20 PM, GoofyGarra said:looks like an Xtreme fish foods large size container. (3.5oz krill flake, 18oz bottom wafers....)
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So, I found a leech in one of my tanks. I figured I would look at how leeches feed on a snail. Over time, I found about 5-10 leeches in the tank and I put all of them in a small container. I have put 10 -20 snails in there. For the past couple of months, they cohabitated in that small container. I can count 9 living snails in there. There is also a colony of Cyclops in there (Which wasn't intended) and about 30 leeches in there. I also saw 5 clutches of snail eggs in there. There's green water in there and a couple of strings of java moss in there. I have not water changed or put food in there.
I was hoping without food, those leeches would start to feed on the snails 😑
I guess the internet freaks out for nothing.
P.S. Bonus point for IDing the container 😁
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On 7/7/2023 at 7:49 PM, Fish Folk said:
Welcome! That’s a full tank for sure. Everyone get along?
Apologies. Yeah, everyone gets along just fine. I had a columnaris outbreak and almost took out half the population of the smaller species (Guppies, neon tetra, black neon tetra, rainbow shiners, etc.) but, I am assuming you were asking about the larger species (Blue gourami, pearl gourami, moonlight gourami, neon gourami, blood parrot, betta, etc). In that case, yeah, they got along just fine. Other than the blood parrot, none interact much with other species. He usually wants the first bite of any food I put in.
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Has anyone had a success hatching capsule of daphnia eggs? If you had any success, can you please share your recipe.
I have recently purchased some and tried to hatch them 6 different ways. Used Ro water, aquarium water and green water and with or without air but had zero success .
Thank you.
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On 10/27/2023 at 3:41 AM, nabokovfan87 said:
All of these look like stress deaths which are either attributed to some sort of a water issue, acclimation issue, or lack of being able to get food.
I don't doubt you. That's what I am thinking as well. But I just can't figure out what it is. I always bring them to room temp before putting them in the tank. Even though I have soft water, I added minerals to combat that. For food, calcium rich food. Didn't even perform water change in the 5 gallon jar because didn't want to change the parameters. Always had some kind of air going in the tanks. If it was harassment from fish, 5g would not have any issues. developed algae in all the tanks before adding shrimps.
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On 10/27/2023 at 3:41 AM, nabokovfan87 said:
I will say it again, you seriously should focus on just amano shrimp for now and go from there. Once you get amano shrimp going and thriving, then you can basically go either way in terms of caridina vs. neocaridina shrimp. If you go caridina, I urge you to have a shrimp only tank for them because it's very specific and low PH. (sometimes below 6.0).
Yeah, I suppose you are right. I heard they were pretty hardy. I will give them another go then.
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On 10/27/2023 at 12:11 PM, Tanked said:
I haven't jumped into shrimp keeping yet, so I can't help too much. My first adventure with Amanos only lasted a few months, I never saw them for the first 2 weeks. My snails don't seem to have any issues.
This pretty much eliminates harassment as the problem. I think at this point I would set up the 5 gallon shrimp and or snail only tank. using bottled water. This might be cheaper than sending your water out for professional analysis.
What water conditioners, fertilizers and other additives do you use if any?
I use api water conditioner, easy green liquid fertilizer. As for additives, I use Seachem equilibrium and crushed coral to raise gh and kh.
As for bottled water, I think for shrimp keeping is not a bad idea if you are keeping 1-2 tanks. I have heard of shrimp keeper going years without changing water.
On 10/27/2023 at 3:41 AM, nabokovfan87 said:I will say it again, you seriously should focus on just amano shrimp for now and go from there. Once you get amano shrimp going and thriving, then you can basically go either way in terms of caridina vs. neocaridina shrimp. If you go caridina, I urge you to have a shrimp only tank for them because it's very specific and low PH. (sometimes below 6.0).
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On 10/27/2023 at 3:41 AM, nabokovfan87 said:
I've been running my tidals and testing them a lot when it comes to my own tanks. I would not recommend them for shrimp because it will kill baby shrimp and ultimately you'll never grow new shrimp. For amano shrimp, this is much less of an issue, but for neocaridina and for caridina shrimp you can't run a tidal without having some very critical modifications or blocking off the intakes (there are 3 of them) and making sure shrimp can't get in there.
So, I have super glued the skimmer and the bottom of the pump housing box, and installed pre filter sponge on the intake. I personally would buy the aqua clear next time instead of tidal but that's besides the point.
I only had either a sponge filter (10g)or just an air stone(in the 5 gallon jar) with my shrimps. I never put them in the 55g to begin with. I just put 2 blue dreams in there after losing 9 of them in the 10g. These two actually lasted the longest.
On 10/27/2023 at 3:41 AM, nabokovfan87 said:Something like a piece of wood near the intake or output on the HoB is likely where you see them.
Good to know. I know about filter feeders do that but didn't know neos and caridina's do that as well.
On 10/27/2023 at 3:41 AM, nabokovfan87 said:For the 55G in particular, how often are you cleaning the filter? How often are you siphoning the substrate? How often are you changing water, how are you doing that, and what volume of water are you changing?
I perform weekly water change ~20%
Clean the tidal every week. Sponge filter every month. Don't really syphon the gravel. I have to dose easy green 3 times the suggested dose every other days to keep up with plant intake. if I miss one day, it reads 0 ppm nitrate. I mean I can go longer without water change without any issues. I have gone more than a month without changing water and everything was fine. I don't like to look at mulm build up which is why I clean the tidal every week. I don't really siphon the substrate. What ever tidal and sponge filter picks up goes to my house plants.
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On 10/27/2023 at 3:34 AM, Lennie said:
That looks like a different scenario.
I believe the reason why your jar didnt probably work is because it is pretty small space for 3 mystery snails and shrimp and has no filter and/or absurd amount of fast growing plants so no cycle or anything to help with potential ammonia or nitrite (if there is any) toxicity. Mystery snails have a huge bioload and shrimp do well in seasoned tanks and ofcourse both require a cycled tank with no off parameters. Did you test the water for ammonia and nitrite back then from the jar?
Also in the picture above, the mystery snail looks scared to use its antenna. Thats basically how they feel around and move normally as they have poor vision. That says something about potential agression or harassing easily. You should see those antennas flowing around freely. I cant clearly tell if there is antenna damage there of its hiding because of being scared.
but instead, should be like this, feeling around moving freely:
Hi, I think I can explain that antenna hiding.
As you can see, I believe that is their sleeping/resting position. Taken right now. I can post a picture late afternoon when they are active. Both of them are pretty active and has long antennas. And while it's possible that they were stressed and/or harassed, I didn't see any sign of missing antenna which I did notice in ramshorns though in 10g when I added a betta to it. He was definitely interested in ramshorn antennas.
My jar water is also being tested regularly and didn't see any measurable difference between the tank and jar other than nitrate being almost always zero in there. I have also tested for ammonia but same result.
As for mystery snails and shrimp in the jar. that didn't happen. I didn't have mystery snails when I was trying shrimps. And now that I am trying snails, I don't have any shrimps rn. I just added a handful of ramshorn, mosses, and floaters to the jar 2-3 months before I added my last order of 20 mixed neos. During this time I monitored water parameters quite closely and performed 1 water change halfway through the cycling. I did feed the ramshorn snails during this time and before adding the 20 neos, I removed 20 ramshorn snails that way there is not enough change in bioload.
I was about to post this reply 😂 and saw this guy moving around.
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So, at this point, I was thinking about going caridina route. Any thoughts?
I mean I have pretty soft water coming out of my tap. If I add some driftwood, it should lower the ph to 6.4, I think.
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On 10/26/2023 at 5:07 PM, nabokovfan87 said:
When you say "dead shrimps" can you clarify or do you have any photos as to what they looked like? Did you see molting issues or anything out of the ordinary? Did you ever try to QT some prior to adding them to the tank?
Here's some screenshots.
I did add my last 20 mixed neos in the 5 gallon water dispenser.
But they all dropped like flies from the floaters up top. I did have one air stone in there back then. that was like 4-5 months ago.
Surprisingly not one fish showed interest when they dropped dead. I even left them overnight in the fish tank but only ramshorn snails showed interest.
I don't think I saw molting issue. I did find some clear molted shells of the ghost shrimps that I got from petco but nothing from neos.
On 10/26/2023 at 7:10 PM, Lennie said:First things first I would not categorize pest snails with more of the “pet” ones and shrimps. Pest snails are quite hardy in general. They can tolerate undesirable situations and conditions much much better in my experience.
In addition, those small ramshorns are usually not interesting to a regular fish as much as a shrimp or bigger snail with wormlike huge antennas can be. This is more about fish potentially showing interest here I believe. Those ramshorns may face some damage if you happen to put them in a puffer tank for example, since this way, they will be the potential food target by the specific fish.
If you ask me, I think shrimp are silly and they trust unconditionally. I keep shrimp in 10 different community tanks at this point, they seem to lack the surviving instinct.
I think that is the most possible scenario. The other one can be your water has stuff that are deadly for shrimp, maybe like copper? But then, how are ramshorns thriving is the question. They dont sound to tolerate but thrive you say.
So I still think it is the aggression
I don't doubt you that it can be aggression. but for my last order, I added them in a 5 gallon qt tank. They all died in there as well in the same fashion. There were only ramshorn snails in there and bunch of other mosses and floaters.
As for copper, I tested that but didn't find anything.
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On 10/26/2023 at 4:58 PM, nabokovfan87 said:
The first thing I will suggest is to get yourself a liquid GH/kh test kit. Just to verify what you need from the tap and from the test strips. It's very affordable and ultimately for anyone keeping invertebrates it is a valuable tool.
KH is ok. GH is ok. I would do some water changes to drop it slightly, but that's not a big deal.
Let's use this as a baseline and only focus on the amano shrimp and the snails before we dive into something more complex like the neocaridina.
First hurdle is always acclimation. They need to be done slowly dripped over time and that helps a lot with acclimation stress. If need be I can attach a video on how to do this.
The second hurdle is going to be stability. Once they are acclimated, that leads to the necessary step of trying to get them to a consistent environment and a situation where there is enough oxygenation, circulation, and plants.
The last hurdle is feeding and there's a variety of things that can compound this. One of the main things you'll deal with is predation, the other is stress. If the shrimp don't feel like they can be out in the open easily, you need to have a good cover for them and treat them as nocturnal. A feeding dish is one of the most important tools for smaller shrimp and snails, but less so for amano shrimp. Snails will graze on the wall and the other surfaces in the tank, as well as the shrimp, but the feeding dish is your visual for how you feed calcium based foods (i.e. "complete" foods for invertebrates) and you can track that they eat those foods to get that nutrition.
In terms of your care in the tank, how often are you changing water and how much? Are you able to add air stones of need be? Especially given the bioload in some of those tanks.
Very normal behavior. You can use something like moss ledges or even a moss wall to give the shrimp their own real estate. Having a pile of wood or rock also really helps them to have a "hive". One of my favorites being a very big chunk of dragon stone. It has holes built on and looks like a beehive a bit.
Dripping for that long could be doing more harm than good. They may have gotten too cold over that time. Essentially, 30-90 minutes should really be all it takes. In my own methodology I tend to double the water volume 2-3 times and then that is what I call as "good". I try to have an air stone in there too during that time on very low in addition to adding 1-2 drops of dechlorinator.
1. Open the bag, add 1-2 drops of dechlorinator immediately and then move that water and shrimp to something like a specimen container.
2. Add air, set up slow drip, and drip them until the container is mostly full. Add some moss also if need be.
3. Pour out as much water as possible and continue the drip process until it fills up again.
4. Using a shrimp net or just letting them swim out of the container, release them into the tank and keep the lights out.
I can tell you from first glance that things are pretty well stocked. The 10G might be ok, but both tanks I think you need to have a feeding dish for shrimp. Here's why.....
This also applies to snails and fish like corydoras if you have any.
I would definitely add in some air. 1 drop in the 10G and 2 drops in the 55G.
Hey Thank you for the detailed information.
So, I have one small/medium sponge filter in the 10g. I have 1 large co op sponge filter on the left, 1 air stone in the right and a tidal 50/55? hob in the 55g. I am pretty sure that my tanks have plenty of air circulation going on.
I know I have a really heavy bioload on the 55 but I didn't add my shrimps in there. In the picture, It's just guppies reproduced so much buy I didn't have as many in there when I added the shrimps. actually 2 blue dreams that survived the longest, I moved them from the 10 g to 55g.
Here's a picture of my make shift qt tank.
I have added 2 of my last mystery snails out of 8 that I bought from different vendors. This is also where I added 20 mixed neos and they all perished within 3 weeks. At that time, I only had bunch of ramshorn in there and a lot of mosses and floater. I saw them grazing all day long but slowly one would just fall off the floaters and die. I didn't have any predatory fish or anything in there. That's why I am so confused. Even if it wasn't acclimated properly, I don't think any fish or shrimp would die after 3 weeks because of it.
You also mentioned not to mix pet with pest snails. While I do agree that pest snails like ramshorn are hardier in general, the same should go for Malaysian Trumpet snails . I have added 4-5 different order of MTSs in both of my tanks. I would just see the empty shells of them whenever I would remove debris from the bottom of my tanks.
As for food after failing couple of time, I ended up buying the crab cuisine and xtreme shrimpy food as those are full of minerals and calcium for the shrimps.
I will keep in mind of how you showed the drip acclimating process if I end up buying more shrimps/snails.
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On 10/26/2023 at 3:36 PM, Lennie said:
I think it is the stocking. Your tank is way overstocked for pet vibe snails and shrimp to be comfy and your fish selection is risky for them anyway.
Ive even seen with my eyes baby guppies constantly picking on mystery snail flesh bothering and scaring him. Your tanks are stocked with fish that may easily show interest to and bother shrimp/snails. Very likely, they will be bothered or even killed, either directly or passively. I think this is the main reason why you don't succeed.
I mean I would understand that. But If that was the case , MTSs would not be dying as they mostly stays burrowed. and ramshorn snails would not be able to thrive. Now I would also understand that if fishes were bothering them but all of the shrimps seems to be like to stay on the moss and water lettuce roots, they would not bother running from the fish either. I sometimes looked at them for 6-7 hours a day. While I have seen some quite literally drop dead from floating roots, I have not once seen any fish bother them. As a matter of fact, After they died, no fish even showed interest in eating the dead shrimps. Same for the mystery snails and nerite snails.
So, while they might have been harassed, I was not able to see any sign of that.
I almost forgot. I also had a five gallon tank with just shrimp and snails. No fish. and the same this happened.
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On 10/26/2023 at 2:26 PM, Chick-In-Of-TheSea said:
It would be a good idea to add a heater so you can prevent those 10 degree temp swings which can be hard on the animals.
So, I understand where you are coming from. They don't have 10 degree swings every night or anything like that. I keep my room heated in the winter and I have an aquarium co op heater installed as a fail safe and set it to 70 degrees but I didn't see it getting turned on yet. And like I said, Most of the time my room temp is sitting at 74 degrees. with the light and other equipment tank usually stays at 76-78 degrees.
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On 10/26/2023 at 1:48 PM, Guppysnail said:
I’m sorry you are not having luck.
What type of water conditioner are you using? Many heavy metals can be in tap water. You need one like Seachem Prime or Fritz that will detoxify heavy metals. This would be my first guess.
My second possibility is what are you feeding. Most of these need protein and vegetables in their diet.
So, I am using api water conditioner. It also states that it detoxifies heavy metal. And, as for feeding,I feed variety of foods as stated above.
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On 10/26/2023 at 12:42 PM, Chick-In-Of-TheSea said:
Your parameters are very similar to mine. My pH is a little higher, but my understanding is that a pH above 7 is ok for shrimp and snails.
Where do you buy your shrimp? If you buy them locally they should be ok with your tap water. If you buy them online, they may have been raised in RO water which is very different.
What is the feeding regime. Snails eat a lot and have to be fed more than you think. They also need more nutrients than algae alone can provide - they need a combo of protein, calcium, and vegetable matter. Shrimps should have vegetable-based protein food, as animal-based protein can result in molting problems.
What is the temperature?
Hey, so, I bought all the shrimps from online. Both amanos, red cherry, multiple nerite, mystery snails from Aqua Huna. Blue dream shrimp from eBay ( nissi store), 2 other neo from aquabid. ghost shrimps and crayfish from local petco. Rest of the snails including MTS from some other online stores.
Temp swing between 70-80 depending on season. mostly staying at 76-78. at night it doesn't fall a bit but never seen below 71.
I do overfeed my fish 3-4 times in the summer and in the winter 2-3 times. I also provide different types of flakes(spirulina, krill, brine shrimp, tetra min), pallets(Xtreme nice semi floating, sami sinking, wafer), pure spirulina powder, live food( bbs, black worm microworm, vinegar eel), freeze dried (daphnia, brine shrimp, tubifex worm), vibra bites, and some other stuff. Of course not everything at once. but yeah, I do feed variety of foods. I also have plenty of algae in the tank for them to graze on.
Aquarium Co-Op Air Pump Troubleshooting and comparision
in General Discussion
Posted
I haven't replaced myself. But did a quick search for diaphragm and found these.
You can try to email Candy / aquarium co op and see if they have the part number for it.