Pepere
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Posts posted by Pepere
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On 1/10/2024 at 4:14 PM, Rewcolee1 said:
This is a 75g aquarium. I use Flourish, Trace and occasionally Nitrogen. I dose per the instructions to adding a little more. I also use Easy Green root tabs per the instructions.
Is it only Java Fern that you have an issue with? I am confused about the mention of the root tabs…Do you have your Java fern placed in the substrate as opposed to glued or wegdedi to a rock crack or driftwood?
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On 1/10/2024 at 10:25 PM, J.C said:
I did take a peak at the aquarium co-op heaters those are pretty neat I really like the temps displayed digitally the only thing is the highest wattage that I saw unless I missed it was 100watts correct me if I’m wrong but wouldn’t I need at least a 300watt heater for a 75 gallon tank I know the 350’s only have 200 watt heaters installed but I’ll be running x2 of them
Heater requirement depends on a lot of variables. Temp of water desired, temp of room tank is in, lid or not, other electrical devices in and on tank.
I run a single 50 watt heater on my 29 gallon tanks in a 69- 70 degree room. I have 2 Finnex planted plus lights on top running at fairly high intensity for 9 hours a day and a Fluval 207 canister filter. I also keep a lid on my tank. The controller turns on the heater when temp drops to 74 degrees and turns it off when it reaches 76.
in this setup, 50 watts is completely adequate. But, you can always run 2 or even 3 heaters if needed.. There are advantages to running multiple heaters rather than a single. More even heat distribution in a tank. If one fails in off position and fails to heat you still have another 1 or 2 heaters preventing the tank from getting too cold. If one heaters stay stuck on, you are far less likely to cook your fish from overheating.
I intend to get a 75 gallon tank at some point in the future as well, and my plan is to try two 100 watt heaters and see if that is enough or if it needs more. As for filtration, I am thinking either 2 Fluval 407s with spray bars and inline co2, or a single FX4 with spray bar and inline co2. I can not personally see extending beyond monthly canister maintenance even if I was running an Oase with the removable prefilter as I swap out Purigen packets every month. I keep 2 packets per canister filter. I keep a clean recharged 1 in my fridge immersed in water in a plastic tub to replace the one coming out and recharge that one to prep for next month. I also put fresh polishing pads in every month and like to clean the impeller and impeller well once a month and the glass lily pipe inlet. I cant see myself going for a longer maintenance schedule on those other items so I would still be popping the Oase open every month. As such the removable prefilter feature has less utility to me.
I also agree there are many different practices and don’t imply that mine is the right way to do things. Just the right way for my tastes.
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On 1/10/2024 at 9:35 PM, J.C said:
Thus the reason I’m going with a cannister I originally was thinking of going hob’s just because of the pita cannisters can be to clean then my lfs mentioned the Oase with the ease of cleaning and the bonus of the integrated heater I knew this was the direction I wanted to go in.
I know canisters have a reputation for being miserable to clean..
I don’t get it myself. I had a seachem Tidal hob that I was not at all impressed with…. A filter isnt going to filter if the water bypasses the filtering media all of the time.. In my opinion it was a huge waste of money given the bypass issue.. and flow is concentrated in a single area..
I bit the bullet of the Canister filter when I installed co2 for better flow control and keeping the bubbles in suspension and distributed throughout the tank. The combination of canister, inline diffuser and spray bar works wonderfully on all counts for me.
as to cleaning it.. I have seen the videos where people dont clean their canister filter for 6 months.. yep. That looks unpleasant. The owners manual calls for every month. Takes me about 10 minutes doing it monthly…. There isnt all the gunk I see on waiting 6 months…. Iwould rather clean for 10 minutes every month than for an hour every six months myself.
The integral heater on the Oase would concern me on a few counts. The ease of damage to the glass heater in the powerhead when servicing it if you bump it, drop it etc, and being dependent on a single manufacturer for your heater to go with your canister…
One could go with an inline heater installed on a hose from the canister..
I personally like the Aquarium Co op heater myself controlled with an inkbird. Lights are off on heater except when heating. Coop thermostat acts as a backup shut off of heat if Inkbird were to fail in on position. The short squzt box of the co opheater allows me to place it low in the tank and not worry about exposing it during a 50% water change,…
I do like the prefilter on the Oase, but geesh, I spend 10 minutes a month servicing my Fluval…. At 10 minutes a month, how much time can you save?
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If money is not a limiting factor I would get all my flow from the canister filter and not wavemakers.
Simply put, wavemakers intrude in the tank more. They introduce more opportunity for current leakage into the tank, and I was continually having leaves and vegetative matter suck up to the grids and foul the impellers…. I was not a fan and removed them from my tanks…
I originally installed them to try to keep co2 bubbles from diffuser to stay in suspension longer…
I swapped out to an inline diffuser and a spray bar going from the back of the tank to the front locating the bar below water level.
with the inline diffuser and spray bar I notice the bubbles less as they get absorbed more before getting into the tank, and those that get injected in the tank stay in suspension well as water hits the front panel descends and goes along bottom and back up to top rear. I see a rotating current of mist bubbles…
I have a Fluval 207 on a 29 gallon so flow is well under the 10 xs rate, but it seems to hit all the checkmarks I care about. Plants all gently wave, plants are growing well, Algae under best control I have had …. I dont know what more flow could do for me than what I have now…. I know it would cost a lot more to set up and torun….
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On 1/10/2024 at 5:13 PM, Mmiller2001 said:
Would have all the plants pulled out 😀
You dont have to pull out all the fish out. Just thin them…
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On 1/10/2024 at 8:24 AM, JettsPapa said:
I'm pretty sure that youtubers make sure their tanks look perfect for videos
@Cory is real and shows it like it is…. No army of tank maintainers making them all perfect before a video and making like it is all him ever so simple and easy….And as busy as he is and as many tanks as he has, I can totally understand. And I like the honesty of it….
I could not for the life of me see myself trying to maintain even a tenth as many as he has.
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On 1/10/2024 at 9:26 AM, Mmiller2001 said:
That’s a lot of work 😆
Well, if its not worth the work, you can keep accepting the deductions…
And once you have less fish to please the judges you will also have less fish to enjoy watching the rest of the 364 days you are not taking a photo for a contest…
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Well perhaps 3-4 larger plastic totes that could nest when not in use as temp holding pens…
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On 1/10/2024 at 8:32 AM, xXInkedPhoenixX said:
And remove half the fish!?
@Mmiller2001 can you remove the fish just for the photo and entry? Ie put them in another tank while you get your pics and then return them for your viewing pleasure?
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On 1/10/2024 at 8:29 AM, JettsPapa said:
If that blew your mind I'm hesitant to tell you that I've seen one or two youtubers who, when asked how many tanks he or she had, replied "I'm not sure."
I got over it quickly…. I now have 4 display and three quarantine tanks..
I am itching to add a 75 gallon display tank in the livingroom once that room has been renovated… but once that is done, I expect to reduce two of the other tanks…. At least I will try to….
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Of course…. 50% off on tanks right now….
I remember the first time I heard of people having more than 1 tank…. Blew my mind. I had never thought of that…
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On 1/9/2024 at 7:22 PM, Mmiller2001 said:
Forward and left 😂
Yeah. I agree. I just am not sure how I will pull it off…. I probably will be removing some Anubias in the process and likely at least 1 rock.
The biggest downside of a 29 gallon is the lack of sufficient front to rear depth..
It reminds me of when I built boats. I was talking to the designer of the boat asking him if it was really necessary to through bolt a particular fitting as access was difficult to get a washer and nut in back. I wanted to drill and tap and bed with polyurethane sealant. He said it might be fine but it would never be as good as through bolting with a washer and a nylock.
He then told me to always though bolt and back with a washer and a nylock when it is easy to do it. And when it is tough to do it, find a way to get it done…. Make a tool to extend your reach etc…
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On 1/9/2024 at 3:09 PM, Mmiller2001 said:
You just keep going and don’t settle for anything that you are not happy with.
Hmm. Sort of like saying go carve a copy of Michelangelo's David by getting a big block of marble and remove everything that doesn’t look like David…
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On 1/9/2024 at 12:15 PM, Mmiller2001 said:
Yeah, they weren’t too happy not having a plant diagram
I am guessing the next submission will certainly have one…
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Filter floss can be swished and squeezed and reused a few times. No need to toss it every time…. As such it will retain a fair amount of beneficial bacteria.
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On 1/8/2024 at 6:15 PM, Mmiller2001 said:
I do use CO2. It makes everything easier.
I have heard it opined there are three levers to control algae growth. Lighting, nutrients and co2. And I have heard it opined that it is better to learn to control algae growth with only working the two levers of nutrients and light intensity photoperiod and that Co2 simply adds more complexity…
I struggled for 6 months with algae before starting to spend money on co2. Adding CO2 was my first breakthrough in the battle against algae..it is expensive to get in the CO2 game though. The ongoing cost is not too bad, but the equipment investment is steep. But, I heartily agree with Mmiller2001. It certainly makes things easier.
I am once again trying to manage a tank without co2 injection… and I am finding it a challenge.
In truth there are other levers though.. flow, plant density, pruning, topping and replanting, water changes etc…
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On 1/8/2024 at 11:53 AM, Tanked said:
Plants rely on flow to bring new nutrients to them.
They also rely on flow to remove waste metabolites excreted from the plants. Algae likes to use waste metabolites.
just like animals that take in nutrients and excrete waste products, plants do the same. Low brings them nutrients and pulls away wastes.
so plants respond well to suitable flow. Suitable flow doesnt mean plants whipping around… In low flow circumstances, it can be improved sometimes by thinning out plant density. Removing algae infested leaves improves flow, reduces shading of other leaves, removes algae mass that can help prevent fragments from spreading, pinching off leaves stimulates new growth…
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I dont think any of us who have seen @Mmiller2001 has failed to be wowed by the look he achieves in his tanks.
Mmiller2001 recently submitted an entry in the Aquatic Gardeners Association Dutch style competition and won second place in a field of 21 entries.
https://showcase.aquatic-gardeners.org/2023/index2.html
clicking on each entry allows you to view larger photos, description of the tank and judges review of it.
The competition was awfully good. I would be pleased to have my name next to most of them…
I have found studying these tanks and reading the judges response quite educational and thought others might enjoy reading them to.
There are also categories for garden style that might be more akin to how most of us style our tanks rather than following dutch style rules closely…
Congratulation @Mmiller2001for your outstanding results. I know I am beholden to him for help he has given me to grow healthier plants and suppress Algae…
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On 1/4/2024 at 2:39 PM, jwcarlson said:
I've had bad luck with RR, personally.
Mostly it has worked fine for me. But dont try it on hornwort that gets algae infected. I had Hornwort simply disintegrate from a seltzer soak. I simply find a clean part of hornwort and use that to make more now, and discard the rest…
And I had a large batch of Scarlet Temple infected with Algae that got seriously stunted by an overnight Seltzer Soak. All the leaves fell off the stems and it has taken over a month to start recovering…
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I find I am less than enamored with java moss.
Itis without question an algae magnet, and is invasive and requires constantly retrenching it back…. And you always leave fragments behind that grow and continue to spread.
Put some on a nice piece of driftwood, and in a few months you have a moss blob and have a hard time telling there is driftwood in the mass….
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Fish poo is a great source for seeding beneficial bacteria. I believe a fish in cycle progresses much faster than a fishless cycle with bacteria in a bottle products…
The concern is of course the exposure to Ammonia and nitrites the fish are eposed to in the process.
Frequent water changes can mitigate that risk.
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Hydra love bbs too and if you have any the population will quickly grow…
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I remember starting a 29 gallon tank where I added plants from another tank and a new filter and added filter squeezings from another tank and dosed it with 2 ppm ammonia and tested daily. When ammonia was fully metabolized to 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite, I would water change nitrates out and redose to 2 ppm looking for when the tank could metabolize a 2 ppm ammonia dose to 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites in 24 hours.
IIRC, the dosing with filter squeezings and plant transplants accomplished this in under 3 weeks.
By way of contrast, sane experiment but no plants or filter squeezings but dosing with bacteria in a bottle products twice a week using different brands took over 2 months.
It is not that I wasnt able to get the ammonia and nitrite to convert completely before that 2 month period. It was the achievement of an end point in under 24 hours. Ie the build up of a sufficiently sized beneficial bacteria colony to accomplish reduction of ammonia challenge in 24 hours after dosing.
I grant there were not sufficient controls to prove that bacteria in a bottle products are all useless, but it was certainly sufficient as to cause me to seriously question their utility and value. And it certainly caused me to greatly appreciate the value of fresh filter squeezings…
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On 12/21/2023 at 11:39 AM, Sheargrub said:
Since then I've noticed a bit of plant growth, as well as the presence of some detritus worms, limpets, and copepods in the tank
As soon as you add fish, you will see far fewer detritus worms and copepods.. The fish will enjoy eating them and the remaining ones will work a lot harder to keep out of sight,..
Having a hard time keeping plants healthy
in Plants, Algae, and Fertilizers
Posted
I agree with @Mmiller2001on the water change issue, but I would encourage you to allow more than a months time for changes to become obvious to you. After doing weekly 25% changes fora month you will have adjusted your tank water down to better parameters. At this point it will take your plants time to reprogram new leaves to optimize for these conditions…figure on 2-3 weeks. At that point you will want to be evaluating the new growth on the plants. Old leaves do not reprogram nearly as well to optimize for conditions…
Once you have good parameters and start seeing the plants respond well to them, keeping those water conditions stable is key to good healthy growth. Fluctuating conditions, be it GH, KH, fertilizers, lighting, co2 levels have the plants expending energy to alter the makeup of the leaves for new conditions… Energy spent toward this is not available for plant growth per se… An interesting example of this phenomenon is shown in a tool scientists are using to determine ambient co2 levels in periods of ancient history. Scientists can study fossil imprints of leaves under a microscope and can determine a rough estimate of the co2 levels the terrestrial leaf grew in by the density of stomata on the leaves. They corroborate this by comparing to same species being grown in greenhouses now with the ambient co2 levels being enriched at different levels to study the changes in the leaves…
Remember, any top offs of water should be distilled or reverse osmosis, not softened or bypass…. At my local grocery store they have a vending machine to allow you to buy water that has been filtered by reverse osmosis.. you can fill 5 gallon jugs in it. That may or may not be more convenient than gallon jugs.
so, a month to adjust the water, and another 2-3 weeks for the plants to adjust to new conditions, while keeping those new conditions stable, and thenyou should be able to perceive positive results. Another 6 weeks from then as old leaves have largely been replaced with new ones and good growth you should be seeing the full benefit from the change..
a big difficulty with growing plants is impatience. We make a change and do not see improvement within a week or two so we make another change,… then the plants need 2-3 weeks to alter themselves to the new changes… and we get frustrated that the change hasnt work so we figure we need to alter our fertilization schedule again etc….
learning that plants reprogram to optimize for new conditions and that this primarily happens in new growth and takes 2-3 weeks was a game changer for me…