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Jedi Kaleo

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  1. Yeah the rest of the firn looks healthy. Just make sure the rhizome (horizontal stem) is not in the substrate or it will rot. I pinned mine between two rocks to keep it from floating and it sent its own roots into the soil.
  2. I have had this happen on mine. They have been the older leaves that have already reproduced or became detached from the stem.
  3. Thanks for the feedback (there was another reply on here but it disappeared) both were insightful. That makes a lot of sense about the water conditioner (I used the same Fritz complete while waiting on the drip acclimation). That is good to know about the nitrate being able to spike that fast. I have not had to deal with that too much as my tank is heavily planted (came for the fish and stayed for the plants😁)
  4. A question more for my edification. I recently received an order from a well known distributor and decided to test the water before acclimation just to see how far off the parameters were. The fish traveled for 48 hours with 4 DOAs. I was surprised that there was no ammonia or nitrite, but nitrate was 160+. I can not imagine the nitrate would jump that high is 48 hours with no rise in ammonia or nitrite. What this tells me is that the water quality from the distributor is cycled but still toxic due to lack of water changes. Does anyone with more experience see otherwise? (See photo attached)
  5. Found this tadpole in a class at my kids school in some pretty rough conditions. It was in about 0.25-0.5 gallons of murky still water. I volunteered to donate a 3 gallon tank with filter that I had laying around as a quarantine tank. When I took a closer look the tadpole, it looked to not be doing so good. It moves around but has a crooked tail and some kind of injury or abscess. I did not take water parameters as I was mainly focused on drip acclimation and transfer to a clean tank. Does anyone have advice as to what to treat with? Maybe melafix for bacterial?
  6. It does look fuzzy from what I can tell. Thanks. Luckily I do have those on hand.
  7. Water Parameters: Ammonia: 0 ppm Nitrite: 0 ppm Nitrate: 0 ppm Kh: 80 ppm Gh: 180ppm Ph: 7.0 Temp: 78 degrees Noticed this white spot on the head on one of my ottos this morning. What do y’all think this might be?
  8. I bought some frog bit from a local store and have let it sit in a quarantine tub for a week so far since it came out of a bottom dweller community tank. This morning I saw two little things darting around (see pic). Can anyone identify these? They move forward and not backwards (like I thought shrimp do).
  9. To Chick-in-of-thesea: yes to all of your questions. To Torrey: no to the charcoal or purgien. Yes, I am following the liquid tests instructions to the letter and backing it up with test strips periodically. I even took a sample to the local store to have it tested to make sure I was reading them correctly. I have never had spikes in the aquarium after it cycled and then added the fish. As an update the Loach died over night. Nothing seemed wrong (no spots, parasites, fin rot,etc.) other than it hide a lot except at night which I assumed normal, and it did not seem to eat the wafers, repashy, or zucchini that I put in (removed/replaced after 24-48 hours). It did however eat some algae off the driftwood and glass. I’m waiting on the O2 test to come in tomorrow as no local store had that, but will probably pulling the snail and last two tetras out tonight just to be safe. I was reading that excess algae could lead to low O2 (maybe?). Little bit frustrated with myself on this today. Thanks for y’all’s help.
  10. Yes, I ran the medicine regiments in tandem (I believed this to be the appropriate direction for “new fish” quarantine per some of the articles unless I was mistaken). I ran a second air stone through the treatments but I will look into how to test for oxygen. Thanks for the tip.
  11. The aquarium appeared to cycle before I added the fish. I used Fritz fish less fuel and Fritz 7 (bacteria) to boost the cycle. Ammonia and nitrites went up and back down, and I had assumed the plants were keeping the nitrates down. The fish were added at the same time. I have been using api stress coat conditioner and have made 25-40% water changes once a week, typically after I noticed a fish struggling or one died. I have not had any spikes when testing water daily. Water temp is 78 steady.
  12. I am new to the hobby and have scoured a good chunk of the aquarium co-op videos but I am stumped. I have a 20 gallon long, plants, driftwood (has clear fungus, but was told this was not harmful) gravel, few store bought decor, and a sponge filter. I started with about 10 neon tetras, 1 rubber lip pleco, 1 hill stream loach, and 1 nerite snail a little over 4 weeks ago. Immediately a handful of the tetras died off. I did not thinking anything about it and assumed shock or bad brood from the store. The pleco died after a week, it never did seem to eat and only hid. Over the course of the following weeks a couple more tetras died. I started noticing what looked like ripped fins. I assumed fin rot as there is no observed aggression, and since I did not quarantine I went ahead and treated the tank with melafix, paracleanse, and super Ike. I just finished the regiment and another tetra died, and the fins on the last two look more torn with white tips starting. On top of that the snail has been staying a the top of the tank out of the water since just before I started treatment which sounded like water quality but perimeters have been consistent and tested daily with API master kit. ph: 7.2-7.6, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate: 0, kh: 54 (3 dkh), gh: 160 (9 dgh) Please advise as I have no clue how to proceed at this point. Thanks in advance.
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