Would the Walstad Method Be Possible With My Desired Aquarium?

[Rube_Goldfish]

On 7/5/2024 at 11:57 AM, Shiba said:

Would sedimentary rocks be a problem in an aquarium? That appears to be mostly what I can get right now. I have some rocks from a pile in my backyard. I will get a picture

Most rocks are fine in most aquariums. Some rocks -- seiryu stone, limestone, and others -- have high amounts of calcium carbonates or other soluble minerals, and can make your GH go up as they dissolve. The lower your pH, the faster and more dramatically this will happen.

The usual way to check is to rinse/scrub the candidate rock off with fresh water, then drip vinegar (or a stronger acid*) on to it. If it "sizzles" or bubbles, that suggests it will leach minerals into your water.

*I've heard of muriatic acid being used for this, but you'd have to be careful with it. I think one of the liquid test kit reagents works, too, but I can't for the life of me remember which.

[Shiba]

On 7/5/2024 at 12:36 PM, Rube_Goldfish said:

Some rocks -- seiryu stone, limestone, and others -- have high amounts of calcium carbonates or other soluble minerals, and can make your GH go up as they dissolve.

Interesting.

On 7/5/2024 at 12:36 PM, Rube_Goldfish said:

The lower your pH, the faster and more dramatically this will happen.

Knowing I will have probably some aqua soil that may lower the pH, I am going to combat that if it proves to be a problem once when I have water in it. I may just use baking soda (not sustainable but it works) or even a conservative amount of crushed coral. I'm thinking of putting it in the filter so I can easily replace it every year. This is if I have to.

I also heard that having proper aeration raises pH? So I may need a good aerator too.

On 7/5/2024 at 12:36 PM, Rube_Goldfish said:

The usual way to check is to rinse/scrub the candidate rock off with fresh water, then drip vinegar (or a stronger acid*) on to it. If it "sizzles" or bubbles, that suggests it will leach minerals into your water.

I have some strong vinegar. I will have to try that. Thanks!

[Rube_Goldfish]

On 7/5/2024 at 2:08 PM, Shiba said:

Knowing I will have probably some aqua soil that may lower the pH, I am going to combat that if it proves to be a problem once when I have water in it. I may just use baking soda (not sustainable but it works) or even a conservative amount of crushed coral. I'm thinking of putting it in the filter so I can easily replace it every year. This is if I have to

It's a good idea to think ahead and have Plan B and Plan C, but I think the operative phrase here is "if it proves to be a problem." It might end up being no big deal at all. Do you know what your tap parameters are after the 24 hour off-gassing period?

It's possible that your tap water is high pH/KH/GH or low in all three. Neither is an unmanageable problem, but at least you'd know which direction you'll have to plan ahead for.

[Shiba]

On 7/5/2024 at 1:27 PM, Rube_Goldfish said:

Do you know what your tap parameters are after the 24 hour off-gassing period?

I currently have not tested it with the 24 hour off-gassing period. I do not have test strips for hardness yet, but I can test the "core" water parameters.

I tested the pH alone right away and it's on the lower side (about 6.8 I think) but that may be different after 24 hours, right?

On 7/5/2024 at 1:27 PM, Rube_Goldfish said:

It's a good idea to think ahead and have Plan B and Plan C, but I think the operative phrase here is "if it proves to be a problem."

Yeah, I will have to make sure that I have some backup plans.

 

[Rube_Goldfish]

On 7/5/2024 at 2:36 PM, Shiba said:

I tested the pH alone right away and it's on the lower side (about 6.8 I think) but that may be different after 24 hours, right?

I think the pH is very unlikely to go down. It may not go up much, or it may go up a lot. Only time, and your testing, will tell.

 

On 7/5/2024 at 2:36 PM, Shiba said:

Yeah, I will have to make sure that I have some backup plans.

I meant that it sounds like you already have some backup plans, which is good.

I'm looking forward to seeing how you scape and plant it!

[Shiba]

I have 12 medium-sized rocks. I'm going to use about 5-7. The rest I think I will add to the back to help create height in the back to help prop up the substrate. Not the most effective strategy but it's worth a shot, perhaps.

Edited July 5 by Shiba

[Rube_Goldfish]

On 7/5/2024 at 4:19 PM, Shiba said:

I have 12 medium-sized rocks. I'm going to use about 5-7. The rest I think I will add to the back to help create height in the back to help prop up the substrate. Not the most effective strategy but it's worth a shot, perhaps.

That could work. Just make sure you're giving yourself enough substrate depth that you can still plant. It's frustrating to think "that's a perfect spot for that stem" and then feel your tweezers hit a rock that you didn't know was there. But it could save you on substrate.

What did you settle on for substrate? Straight aquasoil or something with a cap?

[Shiba]

On 7/5/2024 at 5:50 PM, Rube_Goldfish said:

What did you settle on for substrate? Straight aquasoil or something with a cap?

I'm basically going with what MD Fish Tanks did. Gravel (about 2 inches), aquasoil (2-3 inches), and sand (1-3 centimeters--very little). This is for the back. Everything slopes down and for the front it's just a little aqua soil (for the foreground plants) and sand.

He capped the aqua soil with sand to keep the nutrients in. He also added a lot of small pebbles and things to make it more natural so it wasn't just sand. I'll do this too.

I may just get Fluval Stratum and keep the kH higher so I don't have to worry about extreme pH swings. Perhaps do a couple of other things if I have to. I heard Cherry Barbs prefer soft water so it's going to be an interesting journey. However, others said that they could live in harder water so I don't know to be honest at this point, haha. Corey says they can live in harder water so I'm going to trust his judgement.

I want to get snails and want the water to be *slightly* harder if possible for them.

EDIT: I would add that I probably will add some root tabs to the gravel to give it some more nutrients. It's what MD Fish Tanks did.

Edited July 5 by Shiba

[Tony s]

On 7/5/2024 at 7:42 PM, Shiba said:

Cherry Barbs prefer soft water

cherry barbs will do okay with almost any water. Basically, if you can find it at a petsmart/petco it's not going to be a sensitive fish. They have a lot of what's called plasticity. meaning they have a lot of give in their makeup.

On 7/5/2024 at 7:42 PM, Shiba said:

I want to get snails and want the water to be *slightly* harder if possible for them.

EDIT: I would add that I probably will add some root tabs to the gravel to give it some more nutrients. It's what MD Fish Tanks did

You'll want at least a neutral ph of 7 for snails with a gh around 10. Which is hard water. not an issue though, about 80% of the US has hard water. so, perfectly normal.

 

you will need root tabs in gravel until the mulm builds up enough to support plant growth.

[daggaz]

Just make sure Shiba that you buy a stupid amount of plants.  Really just kind of overdo it, you can always trim them or even remove some of them later, but you need a big amount of plant biomass to get things going smoothly.  And extra lights on timers.  

Dont forget to make a journal and post some pics! 🙂

[Shiba]

On 7/5/2024 at 7:07 PM, daggaz said:

Just make sure Shiba that you buy a stupid amount of plants. Really just kind of overdo it, you can always trim them or even remove some of them later, but you need a big amount of plant biomass to get things going smoothly.

Oh, I will as much as my budget will allow me, lol. I plan on having at least 2 fast-growing stem plant species (is species the proper term, I don't know) so it should work out (hopefully).

On 7/5/2024 at 7:07 PM, daggaz said:

Dont forget to make a journal and post some pics! 🙂

Will do.

[daggaz]

You should go for as many species as possible (within your financial limits), because the truth is some of the plants probably just wont do well in your tank.  Then you can focus on the good ones.  But if you stick to "fast growing and easy to care for" plants, you are in a good spot.  Don't forget floaters.  They are the easiest and fastest of them all.   I really love my frogbit, adds an entire new dimension to the tank and keeps the little fish very happy.  

[Shiba]

On 7/5/2024 at 7:38 PM, daggaz said:

You should go for as many species as possible (within your financial limits), because the truth is some of the plants probably just wont do well in your tank.

Oh yeah I know. I hope my current plans are good for most species though. I am planning on root tabs, easy green, aquasoil, and some light. Should be okay for at least the hardier species.

I want a lot of different varieties for appearance too. I think a variety of heights, leaf sizes and shapes, colors and planting densities will make it look better. I will also make it a point to keep them in bunches. I think it looks better and I heard it helps the plants as well.

[daggaz]

Strong LEDs and a timer are relatively cheap these days, definitely get a good setup there, its not worth "saving money" at all, because if you do, you will inevitably lose some plants and end up buying it anyways after a few weeks of suffering.  

You dont have to buy the priciest state-of-the-art thing, but your LFS should be able to hook you up with a decent kit that wont cost an arm and a leg, but still give you the intensity your plants will need.

Edited July 6 by daggaz

[Shiba]

Here is the journal I will continue there:

 

[Shiba]

I must ask, how do you get driftwood? I know most LFS sell them, but have you ever tried sourcing it from outside? 

[Tony s]

On 7/6/2024 at 2:29 PM, Shiba said:

how do you get driftwood

You can get it from outside. Be careful doing that though. It needs to be a hardwood. Careful not to get it where there may be pesticides. And some wood like walnuts contain pesticides already. I just usually buy from a lfs. 

[Rube_Goldfish]

On 7/6/2024 at 2:29 PM, Shiba said:

I must ask, how do you get driftwood? I know most LFS sell them, but have you ever tried sourcing it from outside? 

I've never collected my own driftwood; like @Tony s I just buy from my LFS, though there are online stores were you can get a sort of 'mystery box' or buy 'what you see is what you get' pieces.

Other than @Tony s 's advice abo hardwoods only and avoid pesticides, you'll want to be sure all of the bark is gone, because it rots too fast in water.

I've never actually watched this video, but I generally trust Alexander Williamson's advice:

[Shiba]

On 7/6/2024 at 3:06 PM, Rube_Goldfish said:

I've never actually watched this video, but I generally trust Alexander Williamson's advice:

I actually watched that video.

I'm not sure if my LPS has any good driftwood. I guess I can look.

[Tony s]

Driftwood is a highly personal choice. Some people like certain varieties only. My preference is for mopani wood. It’s bicolor. It also stains the water a deep tea color. Which I like. For a while anyway. Spider wood is nice. Spindly like a spider. Doesn’t stain the water. Petsmart usually has both. But the good aquascapers can spend hours looking for the perfect piece. So no hurry. Find something that speaks to you. 

[Shiba]

On 7/6/2024 at 5:43 PM, Tony s said:

It also stains the water a deep tea color

I understand liking it. I heard tannins are even good for fish, but I'm not sure if I want it in my tank.

On 7/6/2024 at 5:43 PM, Tony s said:

Petsmart usually has both.

Really? My local one didn't appear to. Then again, I never looked lol. I'll have to look at a PetSmart tomorrow. I'm probably going to buy the substrate tomorrow as well.

On 7/6/2024 at 5:43 PM, Tony s said:

But the good aquascapers can spend hours looking for the perfect piece. So no hurry.

Oh yeah, I know it can take a while. I'll also have to go outside as well and look for some myself.

 

[Rube_Goldfish]

Don't forget, too, that if a piece is almost the right piece, you can break or cut it, or glue two or more pieces together, to make the right piece. Breaking usually looks more natural than cutting, but is less precise. Either way, you can often hide the cut point or glue point with a rock, or burying it in the substrate, or sticking an epiphyte on it.

Rocks can be glued together, too, and a lot of them can be smashed with a hammer, although that's very imprecise. But it can be done.

I'm lucky enough that my LFS has a great selection, and a "dojo" so I can plan out a scape before buying anything. (Plus my kids like playing in the "sand table.")

[Shiba]

On 7/6/2024 at 6:42 PM, Rube_Goldfish said:

Don't forget, too, that if a piece is almost the right piece, you can break or cut it, or glue two or more pieces together, to make the right piece.

I will keep that in mind.

On 7/6/2024 at 6:42 PM, Rube_Goldfish said:

Rocks can be glued together, too, and a lot of them can be smashed with a hammer, although that's very imprecise. But it can be done.

I do plan on getting a good fish-safe glue to glue the hardscape together to make sure everything is stable. 

Here are the rocks that I have. 

I like the big one on the right that's taller than the rest. I think it'll give the aquascape some variety. I could see covering part of it in some moss.

Edited July 6 by Shiba

[Shiba]

I am going to probably buy everything online (with the exception of rocks and driftwood). Seems to be cheaper that way.

[Rube_Goldfish]

On 7/8/2024 at 4:53 PM, Shiba said:

I am going to probably buy everything online (with the exception of rocks and driftwood). Seems to be cheaper that way.

I buy a lot of stuff online, for the same reason. That said, if you've got a good LFS, you're already better off than a lot of folks in the hobby, so be sure to patronize them if you can!