Jump to content

Stuck in a molt


Seanwoodey
 Share

Recommended Posts

Essentially you can put the shrimp into a net gently and keep an eye out. Float the net at the top of the tank and if the shrimp molts fully it will be able to get out.

Sometimes they get stuck and get attacked and that stress ends with them dying.

Whenever I see something like this I do a sanity check and I feed the colony a complete type of food with calcium/minerals.

What is your GH and KH in the tank? How is filtration setup? When was the last water change and how was that water change completed? How much water was changed?

Did anything else change recently on the tank?

Edited by nabokovfan87
typo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/10/2023 at 11:08 AM, Seanwoodey said:

Hi Nabokovfan, my tank is 25l.

 

Hi Chick_in_of_the_sea, thanks. Rightly or wrongly ive been making food for my shrimp/snails based on the below youtube vid. But also use tetra crisps, bug bites
 

b

Oh excellent. Food for snails is great for shrimps too. 🙂  I really like that channel and have learned a lot from her.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So bad day another dead shrimp (has the white ring so maybe during a molt). This was a good shrimp too.

I’ve done a decent water change and gravel vac, moving the large bog wood in the back, which I never do. The fresh water is now dripping back into the tank.

however during this I have noticed 2 berried shrimp that were hiding, so now I’m concerned that they will drop their eggs as I have stressed them

IMG_3945.jpeg

IMG_3946.jpeg

Edited by Seanwoodey
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/11/2023 at 12:09 PM, Seanwoodey said:

You never feel like you know what’s going on, or what to do for the best. It feels like this may be my last attempt

So let's take a deep breath and double check what we need to double check.

First thing we must do is make sure they have a complete food.  Calcium aside, there are other minerals and things your shrimp need to molt and develop properly.  This matters a lot moreso for things like developing young shrimp as opposed to just the adults.  Adults in a new environment it also matters a bit moreso than ones you've bred and raised yourself.  I have info from some shrimp breeders where they have used veggie versions of cichlid food as a staple for their breeding tanks.  That being said, making your own food is perfectly fine, but for now, given the issues you're experiencing, let's isolate food and nutrients as another variable.  Hikari has a pretty good shirmp food as well as a few others.  Nordic is available, looks really good, and is pretty affordable as well.  You can even try something like discus food from hikari.

A GH/KH kit is under $10 usually and it's been a monumental tool for me keeping shrimp.  Once you have those values for your tank and tap, please share and we can go from there.  The other key thing to track here is going to be nitrates and keeping them lower if you continue to experience issues.  (nitrates from waste specifically).  If you have nitrates only from your fertilizer, those are generally acceptable up into the 30's without issues.

You mentioned earlier about changing 10% of the water.  My suggestion would be to change at minimum 20% if you can.  I recommend only doing that at minimum every 2 weeks.  If you change it any more often, that results in some issues with molting and their schedule.  Based on the photo it looks like you're close to that already.  The main reason for this is because it's slightly important to remove nitrates / waste as much as it is to replace that with fresh clean water.  If you don't remove enough, you end up with OTD (old tank syndrome).  That, for shrimp, can be pretty detrimental and lead to some issues like exactly what you're seeing.  I'm not saying that's guaranteed what this is, but it's a potential explanation.

One final note here, if you can, add an airstone.  It helps with their immune system and just their general overall health.  Let's also just verify filtration to see if there's anything there.

As a sidenote... are you able to change the power level on the light?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, first I’ll order a GH/KH kit.  Although my current test strips don’t show GH and KH there are other things like hardness and ph so I’ve took a photo that may help
 

with regards to food, (keeping in mind I have danios in the tank), I use bug bites, tetra crisps, flaked tetra goldfish food, sinking shrimp pellets, frozen bloodworm, snowflake and finally the food I’ve made. I have a feeding dish but I rarely see the shrimp in it. Maybe I need to drop the food near the back where the Java fern/bog wood is as they like to hide in and under that.

I use test strips weekly to measure nitrates/nitrites and they tend to be close to zero. I tend to do water change every 2 weeks but I agree that 10% doesn’t feel enough. Also worth noting that in the last water change I forgot to clean the sponge filter.

I’ve got a sponge filter, not big but apparently (according to Amazon it’s for 20 to 75 l) https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B09Q2TZCS2?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I have been thinking of getting something so that I can run another sponge filter or sit stone from the same pump though

 

 

IMG_3949.jpeg

Edited by Seanwoodey
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/11/2023 at 2:36 PM, Seanwoodey said:

with regards to food, (keeping in mind I have danios in the tank), I use bug bites, tetra crisps, flaked tetra goldfish food, sinking shrimp pellets, frozen bloodworm, snowflake and finally the food I’ve made. I have a feeding dish but I rarely see the shrimp in it. Maybe I need to drop the food near the back where the Java fern/bog wood is as they like to hide in and under that.

There is a lot to digest here and it's a little tough to say what is really going on.

First, you have slow growing plants (lots of ferns and anubias) and that does play a role.  You'd want to see some nitrate so those plants have what they need.  You can turn down the light if you notice them getting a lot of algae too.

I had experienced in my own tank that because the fish were in there, the shrimp were afraid to get food out of the dish.  You can try feeding them at night and maybe that helps a little bit.  That being said, it's tough.  The bug bites and those things, when you're feeding the fish normally it would mean that some of that goes to the shrimp.  You very likely will rarely need to feed the shrimp as a result of this, at least until you see the colony double or triple in size.  Feeding them where they do tend to congregate is a good idea as well!

The filter seems to be the setup where I would run one on each side of the tank and be ok.  As long as you're not seeing something like ammonia or nitrite, then you should be ok with what you currently have.  adding an airstone on the other side, maybe that just helps overall.  If you notice the shrimp only staying around where the airflow is, then that usually indicates they may want more air to feel comfortable exploring other parts of the tank.  If you do end up with two sponges in there, you can also alternate the week(s) that you clean them.  That should be more than adequate.

 

On 10/11/2023 at 2:36 PM, Seanwoodey said:

IMG_3949.jpeg

Does this look the same as your tap water or very different?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...