Judobadger
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Posts posted by Judobadger
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On 7/26/2022 at 11:11 AM, nabokovfan87 said:
This is the same water I have. It's great for fish that like hard water and the KH is just stable enough to keep PH right under 7. You can mix it with RO water if you want to lower hardness, run a moderate amount of crushed coral in the tanks to buffer KH back up to a stable level and your PH will sit at around 6.8-7.2
I have RO for my reef.....that would work well.
On 7/26/2022 at 4:30 PM, nabokovfan87 said:with corys or which specifically?
If you haven't seen it, this is a very helpful topic for anyone trying to breed fish.
I am breeding metae corydora right now and will be playing with sterbai.
On 7/26/2022 at 5:57 PM, Brandon p said:You can remove them once the free swim I do with some pairs. The partners can eat them in a night. I have a 3 gal for the fry I take out first. I use the smallest bbs I can get. I’ll harvest early so I get the snails and use repashy right from the bootle. I take a little on a chopstick and mix a small amount. I use a small sponge filter but I know people that just use an air stone of last the ziss brreeder. The corys I would remove the eggs as soon as you can. Once the mistletoe fertilizes them I would take them out of the tank and into a breeder of a Tupperware with an air stone.
are you trying to breed them in one tank?
The blue acara are good parents up to a point. I usually pull cory eggs and use a tumbler or breeder box. The angels have been a pain. I typically do a breeder box hanging in the tank (for temp) with methylene blue and daily changes. That gets a decent number to free swimming and I feed them fresh hatch BBS. Unfortunately in the breeder box the disappear over time. I probably need a smaller established tank instead...
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On 7/26/2022 at 11:21 AM, Brandon p said:
I have very similar water you have some buffer. My GH is way of the charts. My angels angels are breeding like crazy ) pairs with 2 pairs with fry band 2 more with eggs. The panda corys are breeding as well. I would not be too concerned. I do sometimes put some peat in a pantyhose and tie at both ends and place in the filter. It won’t do much for the ph mane go to 6.6 but the hard ness may come down a liitle. I would not do anything
Perhaps I need to look elsewhere then. My angel fry get to free swimming and die off. My electric blue acara do better, but I have had issues loosing a few here and there as they grow out. Lately at around an inch I seem to be loosing 1 or 2 a day. My metae cory are spawning regularly but perhaps 20% of the eggs make it to free swimming.
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On 7/26/2022 at 11:11 AM, nabokovfan87 said:
This is the same water I have. It's great for fish that like hard water and the KH is just stable enough to keep PH right under 7. You can mix it with RO water if you want to lower hardness, run a moderate amount of crushed coral in the tanks to buffer KH back up to a stable level and your PH will sit at around 6.8-7.2
So really I should be adjusting what I keep. I have no issues keeping the fish I have, but breeding has been a struggle.
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My tap water has me wondering what to do. GH is 300+ppm (17+ dgh), but my kh is 80 ppm (4.5 dgh) and ph 6.7. I keep angels, electric blue acara, and various corydoras right now. I don't like the super high GH, but also feel like I should be buffering my kh since its a little low and so is my PH. Any bright ideas? I have a fish room and I am an aspiring breeder and I think my water parameters are causing trouble with spawning and fry survival.
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On 3/8/2022 at 3:52 PM, B1gJ4k3 said:
At some point in my travels while buying used equipment, I acquired one of these things. It's basically an in-tank brine shrimp hatchery. As near as I can tell, you load it up like you would any brine shrimp hatchery and as the shrimp hatch, they slowly make their way out into the tank. I have two of the Ziss hatcheries, so I have have yet to use it and I'm highly skeptical as to its effectiveness, but it claims its for fresh and saltwater tanks and seems to be fairly well-reviewed. My number one concern would be the brine mixing with the existing tank water, but from some of the reviews, it doesn't sound like a huge problem, but you'd probably want to make sure your fish are at least somewhat salt-tolerant.
That is interesting. I was thinking about using my Ziss, but wasn't sure how to keep it full if I used a dosing pump.
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On 3/8/2022 at 1:41 PM, WhitecloudDynasty said:
Depending on what kind of fry and how old they are..if they are like guppies..give them large size pellets like 5mm and they will slowly work them down. Algae wafer are also good for my baby rosy barb.
Right now I have electric blue acara, angelfish, and a few varieties of corydoras (melini, metae, and sterbai). The EBA are prolific, the rest I am still trying to breed.
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My tanks are far from mature, but the hornwort is growing fast. Most of the fish I am breeding are good parents and the fry stay in with them so at some point I will have a seasoned mature planted setup.
In the meantime I am half thinking about using an auto-feeder and fry food. It won't target the fry and I will have to play with it to limit the output, but that is my best idea so far.
My worst idea is some sort of BBS hatchery with an auto-feeder to add eggs and a dosing pump to deliver the BBS. Sometimes a propensity for DIY is a bad thing.
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I am new to fish breeding but have had some success and have multiple tanks with fry and or eggs. With new fry I have been feeding BBS every few hours during the day. I am thinking ahead to this summer when we will go camping and adult fish can easily weather the time without feeding I wonder how long young fry can be left (hours, days, etc) and how I can feed them as needed when I cant be there. I didn't see a Dean video on this so I am hoping to lean on the communities experience here.
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I have been giving medicated food with kanaplex/metroplex using focus and garlic guard so I am good there. I am not sure how much it eats vs the snails. This fish didn't eat at all a week ago, but I see it sifting through sand now so I am believe its eating when I am not watching (at least a little). Thank you again for the advice.
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The ram that I moved to a hospital tank has started eating, but has also developed some gruesome growths on both sides of its head. Do these pictures I'd issue? I have been assume septicemia, but would like the help of an experienced eye.
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On 1/29/2022 at 6:51 PM, Colu said:
Meds often cause cloudy water as long as you water parameters are fine then I would just add an extra air stone it will clear in a couple of days
It did and thank you again.
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I am not saying they are a bad design but I went with the stands Joey King of DIY did and when floor to ceiling as racks. It let me avoid the lag bolts, but admittedly uses more lumber. They were very easy to build.
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On 1/29/2022 at 1:34 PM, anewbie said:
7.41 chlorine is troubling also i would try raising the temp at least for a short time to 83 or 84; then let it settle back down to 82. The angels object to the warmer waters but do you have anything else in the aquarium ?
Rams are very delicate and bloat/stop eating is likely not due to parasite but something else upset them. They are very sensitive to sudden changes in temp and generally prefer softer waters (despite being raised in harder water).
That was a typo. It 7.41 ph and 0 chlorine.
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@ColuMy main tank is very cloudy today after removing carbon from the cannister and dosing paracleanse. Should I be concerned? I am not sure if it's due to messing with the filter or the med.
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On 1/28/2022 at 7:39 AM, Colu said:
As they have gone off their food and with the bloating it could be internal parasites as you have done one course of paracleanse what I would do is follow up in two weeks from the initial treatment with another course of paracleanse I would also do a course of Fritz Expel p as that requires one dose leave 24hr then a water change once a week for 3 weeks to cover all bases
To be more clear just the ram has stopped eating and been moved to a hospital tank, but I will assume treating the entire tank is a good idea.
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Medicated food doesn't seem to be doing much to help. These guys are getting worse.
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On 1/27/2022 at 5:21 PM, Colu said:
What are your water parameters have you added anything new to the tank resently how long have you had them and did you treat them for parasites when you got them
They have been in the tank for 2 months. Last fish were added a month ago from the same breeder. I didn't treat them.
Parameters are (via coop test strip) 10 nitrate, 0 nitrite, 300 ppm GH, 80 ppm KH, 7.41 ph and 0 chlorine.
Liquid test gives 7 dkh gh, 5 dkh kh, 2.5 ppm nitrate, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite.
From my apex controller ph is 7.41 and temp 79.6.
I can do liquid tests later. Fish were bread in higher ph harder water.
Tank is planted with 2 gallon per day auto change. Picture for reference.
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On 1/27/2022 at 3:49 PM, BLOBfish said:
Call the place you got them, they can help
Not sure where your going with that...can you explain what you are thinking?
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In my 75 gallon display I lost a gold ram that started hiding for an extended time, bloated, and died. I thought it was due to aggression. The very next day the 2nd of 3 gold rams stopped eating and started hiding. I was able to catch it and move it to a hospital tank.
I cant get it to eat, but I have, aquarium salt, Ich-x, para-cleanse, and maracyn oxy in the water. I am seeing no change. The fish is reclusive and refuses food. Any ideas?
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This article is interesting and suggests your treatment plan as well as a dip.
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I have a 150 Gallon per day RO unit set up for my reef tank and to supply drinking water to our refrigerator upstairs. I use a small pressure tank (5 gallons) and an aquatec demand/supply pump that automatically switches on as needed that helps keep the supply to the refrigerator at pressure. Its more than enough for that use. Its not going to do on demand water changes, but supplies a steady stream of water on demand no problem. You can buy larger pressure tanks, which will store more water if you need to draw a large amount of water at one time. I almost bought a 20 gallon one, but it was overkill for my needs.
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How about the salt dip?
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They took medicated food well kanaplex and metroplex with focus and garlic guard. I also switched to super ick today.
Should I lower my temp back to a normal level or keep it elevated?
Also would a salt dip be beneficial?
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Ok I have kanaplex in the water and focus on the way so I can add it to the food. Anything else I should do?
Water Chemistry
in General Discussion
Posted
This is great!!!