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  1. For those of you local in the Seattle area, the Indoor Sun Shoppe in Fremont has a huge pallet of what the owner called 'mexican bowl rock' for house plants or succulent planters. He said it was too hard to shape into bowls and was afraid of loosing money so I told him people might use them for an aquarium. He sold me them at $5 a rock which were about the size of a 2.5 to 10 gallon tank. I first dumped a sparkling water (ph about 3.5) and it fizzed after the co2 released. I then used lemon juice (ph 3ish) and that seemed to fizz less. I then used white distilled vinegar (ph 2.5ish) and that fizzed/hissed a bit less but still some. I have a 65 gallon tank and was planning on using just 1lb of crushed coral in the substrate of seachem red and fluval stratum. I also plan on having c02 and my tap is typically 6.4ish or less. So I have some uppers (coral, seachem alkaline/equilibrium) and downers (soft seattle water, stratum, and co2). Has anyone used these rocks before? I am trying to discern if it will raise my ph?
  2. Hey everyone, was wondering if folks have ever used this and were they happy with it? I looked all over the label and couldn't see if it had any binders or other chemicals to it. I assume it is safe to use? https://www.lowes.com/pd/EARTHESSENTIALS-BY-QUIKRETE-0-5-cu-ft-Leveling-Paver-Sand/50437604
  3. Hello, I am curious if this will work, and if not no worries, but I wanted to see if folks had any experience keeping only male platies before? I was thinking of getting 6 or so for my 20 gallon... I've done male only guppies and endlers without issue, so was wondering if this works with the next size up in livebearer.
  4. Thanks Lennie, that's the kinda info I was looking for from everyone. I do love gouramis and kept them in the past. So I may do that again. But for now, I have unwittingly back myself into a boisterous Tiger Barb-centric/only set up for a while.
  5. Hey everyone, looking for advice. My 66 gallon tank is 39.4 inches long and 19.7 inches tall and 19.7 inches wide (or 100cm x 50cm x 50cm). I will never get a metric odd ball size again, but that is another topic for another time. I am wondering if it is ethical to keep either of these species in my aquarium. I'm looking at maybe one day having 5 or so in a group. But it appears to me that my tank might be right on the cusp of what is ethical. I've heard angel fish should have 24" of height but then also that they can live solo in a 29... so would my tank be ok for them there? I've heard discuss need a minimum of 4 feet but then I've seen them in 55 gallons with only 13 inches of depth... so would my tank be ok for them?
  6. Hooray Tiger barbs! Fingers crossed they are still there next week!
  7. I'll throw my situation into the conversation. I worry about this often. I've looked into building codes and saw that most floors have a rating of 40ish pounds per square foot over the WHOLE area of the floor.... so if your space is 500sq ft in theory it should hold 20,000lbs of your stuff. But that still seems odd to me. There's usually a safety factor in those standards, let's say 2.5 or times so 100lbs or 120lbs per square foot. It's also got to be true that where there are tubs, fridges, water heaters then the floor is probably reinforced. Now, my rimless 66 gallon is probably about 750lbs and the square footage of my tank stand is 5.43 (it's in cm, 100cm long by 50cm wide) which means approximately 138lbs per square foot of tank. Although I am over the psf, I know my second story apartment floor is concrete, and is probably reinforced. The stand has a solid piece of plywood bottom and it's in a corner with an outfacing wall. I still get worried, but it's been there going on two years. Does all my rambling check out? Do the building codes tell us anything? since that is what I am basing my math from..
  8. Hello! Are there any Tiger Barbs in the Dollar Tank (can't believe I am just now learning about this despite how many times I come in, doh!) and if there aren't Tiger Barbs will there be any arriving soon? Thanks!
  9. Thanks in advance for your help. I have an ember tetra who came with this black lump on the tail. I bought in a group of 18 so I didn't notice right away. The lump looks like a blood clot, but I have no clue. The fish is in my quarantine tank (parameters below) and so far Erythromycn, Paracleanse, or Ich-X have no effect on the lump. The fish behaves normally and eats, swims fine. So is it a fungus, or a tumor, or just a wonky fish?? pH - 6.8 Nitrates <10ppm Hardness - soft Nitrite - 0ppm Ammonia - 0ppm KH/Buffer - about 40ppm Water Temperature - 78f
  10. Hey, think I can add my question here: I have a tank at my work desk (as part of going back to the office) and it is the 15 Gallon Aqueon Column Tank with no heater (13" x 13" x 19" and temp is kept at 70f in my office) with lots of anubias, a huge amazon sword, watersprite, and water lettuce. I'd like hardy fish so I'm thinking a solo female FFF (so a FFFF? 😄) and 5 to 7 longfin white clouds. Thoughts on this stocking combination?
  11. Was asked to provide an update, and it's been two months since trying the "Contest tank with undergravel filter" experiment. So here's my experience about halfway to submittal date for the contest: - decided to run a powerhead in the uplift tube off of the plate to not suck nutrients out into the canister filter where plants couldn't uptake them. I was able to hide it well in the hardscape. I used a combo of fluval stratum and eco-complete on top of lava rock approx 1/2" to 3/4" on top of the UGF plate. - with the slope needed to create the perception of depth in an aquascape, I decided to place the plate in the middle of the tank so substrate is about 2" above. But, I am finding all the hardscape needed to do a competition style tank is compressing the substrate. So the flow is reduced on the powerhead - also, what flow remains seems to be pushing nutrients everywhere in the aquarium which I *suspect* is good and bad. Good meaning lots of nutrients all throughout the water column for plants. Bad meaning there is so much nutrients that are not being locked into the substrate as algae (BBA) has been trickier. Although I've been able to keep it from exploding, but not quite reduced to a reasonable amount (I know it never truly 'goes away'). - while I was curious an enjoy the UGF so far, think I'll just cap with sand next time. Pictures to come in June after I upload to the IAPLC, AGA.
  12. Thanks all, very much appreciated! This is really helpful information, and of course Corey had a video on it 😄. I think I will give a UGF set up a go and let it run for a 6 month trial based on what I am hearing. Not many of the professional Scapers run UGFs and I am sure they're on to something. Lol but I want to figure out for myself and tinker a bit. Seems like: - air pumps, or keeping GPH the same but not increasing to 10x volume per hour recommended in competitive aquascaping - 4" max of substrate, coarse but not too coarse. This current set up is about 4 months old and I want it to go for another 2, before I rescape mostly to teach myself patience. 6 months from Feb is Aug and that's when I want to start my IAPLC build.
  13. Hey everyone, would love some thoughts from the community on this, thanks for the support! I am curious about having undergravel filters on my next scape and was curious if depth of substrate matters, i.e. can it be too deep? The uplift tubes will be connected to my biomaster 350. I think I can scape the tank to hide the tubes. Do plants grow well on UGFs? I'm pretty religious when it comes to my maintenence and ferts. Been in the hobby 7 months, tank below is my 55 gallon acrylic display.
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