Zac
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Posts posted by Zac
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Hey all,
What suggestions do you have for breeder boxes for guppies? Unfortunately the seller I’m buying from only sells in pairs with additional fry(unsexed). So I can’t get one male to 3 females. I’ll need a breeder box to start out for obvious reasons. What do you guys suggest? I’m thinking the Fluval multichambered box or the ziss box
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On 6/26/2022 at 12:16 PM, lmhicks101 said:
I have a 300 watt in my 40 breeder set to 78° The room temp is 65° but the tank won’t stay over 72°. I’ve unplugged and plugged back and still no change. This heater is a month old and worked at first. It gets hot and the fish are now staying near it. Should I bump it up to 82° or just pull the trigger and get a fluval?
There is a vent above this tank that’s not blowing directly on it but close. However 2 other tanks (29 with a fluval 150 and 10 gallon with Aqueon 150) have no issues with temps.Maybe try unplugging it for 30 minutes or so if you haven’t tried that. Sometimes they just need to adjust to the water temp. You could turn the temp up slowly until it matches what you would like your tank to be
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On 6/25/2022 at 3:08 PM, Mmiller2001 said:
I agree it's light. I would increase water changes but keep the same dosing. This will allow for lower ppm while maintaining your current dosing. Although these plants are advertised as easy, they typically do as you see. CO2 injection changes AR to what you usually see advertised.
FYI, I've found that cutting back AR and not replanting is a good practice.
Do you have a higher fish load?
Larger more frequent water changes is how I tackle most algae these days. Once you get ahead on water changes, most algae struggle.
I only have amano shrimp at the moment. I’m probably going to get some guppies soon so the fish load will get larger. Can you remind me what AR is?
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On 6/25/2022 at 2:53 PM, JoeQ said:
If your nitrates are 40ppm I would rule out the nitrates, figure on it being a lighting/iron issue. @Mmiller2001 would probably be your best source there. Hopefully he'll chime in, as for your staghorn issue, try to improve flow. This alone might solve your issues by distributing your liquid nutrients through out your aquarium.
I have 2 medium sponge filters with air stones running in them. The right side pump isn’t working but a new pump should be coming in the mail soon. Hopefully that will help
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On 6/25/2022 at 2:36 PM, JoeQ said:
My guess for lower leaf trobles is usually needing more light or more nitrogen, maybe both. Even in my own tank I can't determine which one is the culprit.
Edit, could also be an iron issue since when reading again you didn't mention leaf loss
That’s possible. I have red ludwigia and it’s doing great. No issues with color. You may be right about lighting. I just tested and my tank is just under 40ppm Nitrates. I’m hesitant about upping the lighting because I have staghorn algae I was just able to start killing off with excel
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Hey all,
My scarlet temple teems to be losing its red on the older leaves. It’s a 30 gallon tank and I’m dosing 4 pumps easy green twice a week, 2 pumps of iron twice a week. And the tank gets 7 hours of 80% light. Plus the time it takes for the light to ramp up and down
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On 6/23/2022 at 9:25 PM, macdaddy36 said:
Hi, I recently set up a new planted tank. I am looking for stocking options. It is a standard 20 gallon high aquarium. Current stocking list below.
- 5 Harlequin Rasbora
- 1 Mystery Snail
-1 Nerite Snail
-2 Ramshorn Snail (came with plants lol)
Plants include 3 Giant Saggitaria, 1 Amazon Sword, 2 Anubias, 1 Tiger Lotus, and some Water Lettuce.
Aquaneat Light, Aquaneat 20 sponge filter, Aquaclear 30 filter, Nicrew Heater.
I would like to fully stock my tank. The first fish I like are Honey Gouramis, they have both red and gold varieties at my LFS. I think I would get 3 (1m, 2f), as I have heard they are social fish. I would like to finish off my school with 3 more Harlequin Rasboras but at the time I bought them the LFS only had 5 left (they have more now). The other fish I would like to get are Kuhli Loaches. I would get 5-6 to dwell at the bottom of the tank. I prefer Kuhli Loaches over Corydoras in looks but I am kind of open to both. Really want to try Honey Gouramis though. I would also like to get another Mystery snail so they can maybe breed. Any feedback on my current setup or future stocking list would be greatly appreciated.
Khuli loaches can be great fish, but they are shy so they like lots of hiding places. For 5-6 I’d probably go with 30 gallons. I think 4 for 20 gallons will be okay. But again you may not see them much because the tank is pretty open. Rest sounds great! Maybe consider like 5 amano shrimp incase you end up getting a hair algae problem or some sort of other algae the snails won’t eat
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Hey all,
For those who remember my previous posts about mulm, I think I finally realized the culprit after some comments on the forum. I noticed a large amount of mulm concentrated underneath the driftwood, along with the mulm building up on the driftwood. I noticed tons of snails on the underside of the wood when I took it out (probably 50+). Are there any suggestions on what to do? Will it whatever is on the wood causing it eventually go away? I’d hate to get rid of the wood because it’s a gorgeous piece I put together myself.
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On 6/20/2022 at 10:25 PM, Patrick_G said:
The light from a small basement window might not be the problem. I used to avoid sunlight at all costs, but I currently have some algae free tanks near windows so I know it’s not absolutely necessary to keep a tank out of natural light.
If you’re currently running your light for 8 hours I think that might be the main culprit. I’d cut back an hour and see if that works. It’ll take a 3-4 weeks so in the meantime you could do a dose of Excel to take care the immediate problem.The algae isn’t a huge issue at the moment but it’s definitely growing. I’ll have to order some excel. Will it continue to grow during that 3-4 week period or will it slow down, then die?
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On 6/20/2022 at 9:37 PM, Paul R said:
If you can't do anything with the window I would personally try to reduce iron maybe one dose a week for a couple of weeks and see how that goes. If you notice iron levels are dropping when you test or plants are losing coloration/stature you can go back.
I don't know of a creature that will take it out 100%, but I hear true Siamese algae eaters and Panda Garras will take on different sorts. They may be a good preventive measure in the future once you get everything dialed in.
By the way your pogo looks nice! Seachem Excel is pretty effective. I just got into it and dose it everyday to be safe with algae
Thanks! Fingers crossed I can nip this in the butt before it becomes problematic. Do you spot treat with excel or do you just do a whole dose?
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On 6/20/2022 at 9:30 PM, Paul R said:
I know I had my aquarium next to a window months ago with the curtains closed and I got crazy amounts of algae. I also dosed iron weekly. I reduced the amount of iron I used and then moved the tank and the algae has gone away. I don't known which one it was. Could have been a combination of both or one or the other.
As far as the Amanos go, I never saw them take on staghorn, but that was my guys. Can't speak for the rest.
I’ll try blocking the window I think since I don’t have anywhere to move the tank. Hopefully that works. I’ve also read about spot treating with seachem excel. Hopefully the light will do the trick so I don’t have to spot treat. I’ll have to address iron next if that doesn’t work
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On 6/20/2022 at 9:14 PM, Paul R said:
Looks like the start of it to me. Does the tank get 8 hours of artificial light as well as natural?
Yes. There’s a little window in the basement that light gets through. I could try blocking the window but it will be a challenge. How should I get rid of it since nothing will eat it?
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Hey all,
what are your guys’ favorite air pumps? I have 2 sponge filters in my 29 gallon. I have 2 aquarium co-op nano pumps but they haven’t been reliable for me. They both stopped working, I got 2 more, and the same thing happened after less than 2 weeks. I’m thinking of going a different route. Any suggestions?
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On 6/18/2022 at 7:29 PM, Fish Folk said:
Guppies can be really satisfying to keep and breed! I recommend (1) Add a load of plants. Some down low, some floaters. This allows fry to hide, and females to take cover as well (2) Buy 3x females for every one male if you can. This spreads out his obsession with breeding between a few females.
I have a decently planted tank. I’m still working on the layout but it should hopefully come together soon. It have a nice dense background of pogo octo. Along with some pearlweed and other plants. I’m working on propagating everything to really give the tank some density but I think right now I should be good
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Hey all,
Once this heatwave is over I’m going to order some guppies with hopes of doing a casual breeding setup. I have a couple questions:
-Will a male harass a pregnant female to mate?
-How long can I keep a male in a breeder box to let the female have a break? I have an extra 10 gallon tank but it’s not setup yet. I could set it up but if there won’t be troubles with a breeder box I would rather do that. I don’t know if it’s worth setting up a whole 10 gallon for one guppy that will only be in it sometimes.
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On 6/5/2022 at 9:53 PM, nabokovfan87 said:
Very likely is just where the flow settles.
I didn't have any issue with the black flourite that you're using.When you got the wood for the tank, how did you prep it? Do you see snails on the wood?
I soaked it for about a day, I got it about a month ago, and I see a small amount of snails on the wood sometimes. When there was biofilm on it they were all over it
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On 6/5/2022 at 4:52 PM, Fish Folk said:
One off-the-cuff thought: Are you absolutely sure you're looking at molm? I wonder if that might be a sort of diatom algae. Maybe I'm way off, but is that blasting sand substrate? I've had problems with that which far exceeded any molm that reasonably could have built up. Just a thought to consider.
That’s what I originally thought. I was told by a few people that it was mulm but I also thought it was diatom algae too. I’m using seachem black fluorite sand. Honestly…I’m really not sure. When I removed the rotting plants it seemed to get better. Also I noticed it’s underneath the driftwood. Unless diatom can grow where it’s almost completely dark that I think it’s mulm but now that you mention it I really don’t know lol. I also noticed it reappears almost in the exact spots after I remove it
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On 6/5/2022 at 3:48 PM, Fish Folk said:
@Zac I’d dose it full as recommended for a new tank. Make sure there’s enough air in there too.
I’m running 2 medium sponge filters with nano pumps and ziss air stones in them. That should be enough right?
On 6/5/2022 at 3:48 PM, Pepere said:Cory mentioned in a video that asign of using too much iron can be hair algae.
I dropped back to 2 pumps in 29 gallon tank every 5 days.
I can definitely try that. I’m doing 2 pumps twice a week so I’ll try dropping it around there
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On 6/5/2022 at 3:41 PM, Fish Folk said:
Have you tried adding FritzZyme 7?
Not yet but I was debating on picking some up. Should I add the recommended dosage for a new tank or should I cut it down a bit because it’s partly established?
On 6/5/2022 at 3:42 PM, Pepere said:I had hair Algae forming too as I was cycling my tank.
Backing off some on the Easy Iron eliminated it
How much were you adding?
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Definitely looks like hair algae. Amano shrimp will make quick work of it
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Hey all,
So I’m having trouble determining if my tank is having trouble cycling or not. It’s been up for almost 4 weeks. I used to have a pretty big mulm problem because some of my plants were dying and rotting. So I removed them, did some water changes, and it’s significantly better now (roughly a week to so later). However I still have mulm, but only a little. I know it’s beneficial when there’s enough bacteria to break it down.
My tank has had around a .5ppm nitrite level for quite a while now which I know is normal for a cycling tank and I’m really trying not to over maintenance it (especially because I have no fish). All I have are “pest” snails. I’ve noticed quite a few have died but they usually get eaten by the other snails and only the shell remains. I think it’s either due to nitrites or no food because I’m not feeding them.
I’m not in a huge rush to get this thing cycled but I’m starting to get hair algae so I’d like to get some amano shrimp in there before it takes over. All the plants look healthy from what I can see. The octopus plant has lost a couple of the lower leaves recently but it looks healthy over all.
-I’ve attacked some pics of my tank and the mulm. Is this a normal amount to have or is it too much? Also if y’all see anything wrong with the plants let me know plz. I dose 3mL easy green every 3 days, 2mL of easy iron the days after I dose easy green, and seachem root tabs once every couple months. The lights on 80% brightness for 8ish hours, but the right side of the tank gets a lot of natural light before it turns on.
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On 6/1/2022 at 7:00 PM, JessLynne7 said:
Any suggestions on where to buy a Java green mat!? Kje aquatics typically has mats but cannot get them at this time
You can try buceplant or modern aquarium
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On 6/1/2022 at 5:45 PM, NormsAquatics said:
I purchased 3 Chinese algae eaters from the LFP and two turned agressive. The option to take them back isn't available considering there behavior. I don't have an appropriate tank to home them separately either. I have considered calling other stores but haven't yet and there are no clubs in my area to share them with.
My question is, what would you do?
I’d try your best to find someone who can take 2 of them. Your tank looks very open. A densely planted tank may help to curb aggression. But Chinese algae eaters are aggressive in general. It’s usually advised to keep only one in a tank unless it’s a pretty big tank
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Rhabdocoela
in General Discussion
Posted · Edited by Zac
Hey all,
I seem to have quite a bit of rhabdocoela in my tank. I know they’re not planaria so they’re not a danger to my shrimp. However I’m not quite sure why they seemed to explode in population. My ammonia is 0, nitrite at 0, and my nitrates are 40ish. My tanks not dirty either (I’ve attached an image below). They’re not a huge issue but they’re kind of unsightly when you get up close to the tank. I’m not sure how to get rid of them.