Neha

Hello, I'm dealing with ich on my new ember tetras. I dosed with aquarium med trio, but now if I treat ich actively, which is changing 1/3 water every 24 hr and dosing again, where does that leave me with maracyn and paracleanse? Do I also dose the amounts for those to compensate for water change or do I dose them at the end of the 3 day cycle? @Colu Thanks for always helping me with med questions, hopefully you can help me on this too? Thank you!

Thank you very much for your help. I saw the aquarium coop video for treating fin rot with maracyn and ichX, so right now I've done that. I'll update here with progress. Again, appreciate your help very much.

Came home to this. What do I do? There's a heater and sponge filter in this tank, why is this happening?

Yes

I have a half-moon betta, his name is Frodo. He lives in a 10 gallon planted tank. He has had a setup change from a 5 gallon tank. His tank setup is currently new and lightly planted. Below are tank parameters: Ammonia: 0 Nitrates: 10 Nitrites: 0 ph: 7.6-8 gh: 300 kh: 120 Temp: 78 I've attached a picture of his current fin rot situation which I'm currently treating with salt as I've done two other times. So here's the problem: I have had him for a year and this is the third time he is suffering from fin rot. The first time and the second time happened when I was not at home, so I couldn't figure out the cause. The second time he had a chunk missing from his tail and looked like he had been biting it off. At the time he did not have any tank mates so I associated the cause to be his loneliness. I added 12 pygmy corydoras which seemed to solve the problem until this happened. He lived alone in a planted (not so balanced) 5 gallon for three months and was doing great. I set up his 10 gallon about 1.5 weeks ago and he developed a fin rot 4 days ago. This time it does not look like he has been biting his fins, it looks like his fin has been burnt just like a paper. Now the change in water parameters from his previous dwelling to this 10 gallon has been in terms of gh, kh, and ph. After his 5 gallon he lived in store bought spring water/drinking water for a few days since we were traveling. Could the change in these parameters have caused a fin rot? Or is it because he is lonely in his 10 gallon and hence could be having stress? Please let me know what you think. As always, grateful to be a part of this awesome group!

Thank you so much. I know this is a late reply but I wanted to give an update on this. So I followed what you said and I used frozen food for kanaplex. There was one more corydora that died after I started the treatment. He just sort of vanished, I'm assuming that he died and the others ate them? However, after that I did not see any deaths and kept them in quarantine for a few more weeks after the treatment. Fed them tons of repashy and brine shrimp. They are now in the 15 gallon community tank and I haven't seen any casualties since then. I'm assuming that it was some sort of internal parasite or bacteria because that looks like the only possible explanation. Lesson learned: Quarantine your fish with med trio always.

I ended up buying just 3 amanos, they have been working well.

I def don’t want to bring in fish that probably won’t be happy with the amount of algae I can provide. If I can work with amanos, I would like to do so.

So I have a 15 gal tank with 7 guppies and 7 pygmy cories. I was wondering if bringing in 3 otos would be a good idea considering the bioload and availability of enough algae for 3 otos in a 15gal, cz I’ve heard they can starve to death when algae is not available.

I have an existing small colony of cherry/pumpkin shrimp, how do I quarantine amano shrimp and do I need to? I also have corydoras and guppies and I want to bring 1 otocinclus, how do I quarantine him and do I need to?

Thank you very much! That was helpful. Yes, that does look like staghorn. Thanks for spotting it. Well, I can’t possibly increase my plants mass. I will play with fertz and light though. Thank you.

I am having a hair algae problem in a fairly new setup. It is my first attempt at aquascape and does have high demanding plants, CO2 injection and a pretty strong light. The top has red root floaters so they block a little light from a few sections. It is a 15gal tank and I’m using a JC&P (clip on) light at 8 hours at almost max setting (the light isn’t very good in terms of it’s remote and the customer care people are horrible so no help there). Now I’m having problems with hair algae in the shaded as well as well lit areas of the tank, but mostly on the moss covered wood. My moss grows but so does the algae and then I’ve to hack it all down. There’s buce on the wood along with moss which isn’t growing properly I’m assuming bcz of algae. The wood releases brownish substance into the water even after being prepped by boiling for more than 8 hours and being in the tank for 2 months dark start period. The tank only had snails and 4 cherry shrimplets until now, I’ve added 7 guppies (endlers and normal mix) and 7 pygmy corydoras yesterday. How do I deal with this algae? I’m planning to get amano shrimp to help and I already have 2 nerite snails and several ramshorns. Any advice? Also how do I quarantine amano shrimp and is there need to do so?

I usually feed them frozen brine shrimp and repashy community plus. Can I mix kanaplex in the repashy mix while setting it (without the focus thing)? Thanks a lot for your advice, really appreciate it.

So do I start the Expel p and the Kanaplex dose simultaneously?

I do have a sponge filter going in the hospital tank. I do water change every day but I will increase their frequency. what I don’t understand is the first two cories died in the main tank, which has no ammonia. The third was very sick in the main tank and died within half a day of putting in the hospital tank. None have actually gotten sick in the hospital tank and died.

*DISCLAIMER: DEAD FISH PICTURE* Water Parameters pH-8, Nitrates-0, Hardness-10, Nitrite-0, Ammonia-0-0.25, Kh/Buffer-10, Temp-78F These are the parameters of the hospital tank. Unfortunately I had to wash my emergency filter bcz I was keeping rescue fishes (I didn't want any diseases traveling). Their main tank (10g) has the same parameters except it is cycled and has a betta fish (Frodo). Frodo has been very polite and I have never seen aggression or chasing. He sometimes does hog most of the food but other than that he just observes them swimming around. I got 12 Pygmy Cories on Dec 22 and set up a cycled quarantined tank (I keep a spare filter in the main tank). I did not put any medication but asked the store and they said that they had dewormed them. I observed them for two weeks, they looked good, so I transferred them to the main tank. After this I saw some flashing and asked some people but they said it wasn't a big deal. Fast forward Feb5th, I see one of them literally dying (he tried to wedge himself between the substrate and a crypt root. I took him out, tried to give him some food but he died within the next few minutes. I try to observe the tank more closely and I find two more fish laying kinda still and not moving around much. The next day another died (he too wedged himself between roots). I take them all out and set up a quarantine tank. The third wasn't looking good (pale and very lethargic). He died the next day. All the fish that died did not have any visible injuries, signs of any external infection, nor any funky poop. I decided it is probably internal parasites and do a round of API general cure (cz I didn't have anything else). I had to change the water earlier than recommended because ammonia was rising. Current situation: There is one fish that doesn't look very good to me. He lays still and goes up for air quite often. I observed him today not eating a lot of food while the others were going nuts on brine shrimp. I don't see any visible infection signs or anything on him. I have paracleanse now, I also have API general cure. I am out of my wits trying to figure this out. I have no idea what's going on. Do let me know what you think and what you would suggest I do in this situation. Do I do another round of API general cure after 2 weeks since the first round? Or should I try paracleanse? Or something else?

Hello! I have started a new tank and there is no livestock in there at present. I’m planning to get amano shrimp but I have hydra in the tank. I know that hydra are harmful for shrimplets and fries, how harmful are they for amano shrimp? Will the amano shrimp eat hydra? I currently don’t want to get fish for the tank.

Thank you...I got very scared...

I ordered pearl weed from co op and I found this worm while washing my plants. Can anybody identify this? What should I do?

Thanks a lot for those replies. They were very helpful! Yeah I just joined and I’m also new in the hobby. Appreciate the help and the welcome very much!

What I still don’t understand is, why and how do I have 0 nitrates when I added a pump of easy green just yesterday? Did my plants eat it all? I do have one of those cartridges in my filter which probably contain carbon. Could that be removing nitrates?

Great! So at what levels of ammonia should I do water changes?

I have a question: It’s been 3 weeks (almost) since I set up my tank (10 gal) added 1 betta fish. I have gotten 0 ammonia until now. I test every other day. 0 nitrite and 0 nitrate. I do have live plants and they are starting to grow. Yesterday I added 3 root tabs and 1ml of easy green fertilizer since my tank was reading 0 nitrate and I have a cryptocoryne which needed root tabs. Today I had 0.5 ppm ammonia. I changed 30% of my water. Do I do more water changes or do I leave it at that? If I do more water changes will it not delay the cycle? If I don’t, aren’t these ammonia levels harmful for fish? I am inclined towards setting up a quarantine for Frodo and leave my tank to cycle, is this a better idea? Are the root tabs causing ammonia spike?