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MollyMomma

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Posts posted by MollyMomma

  1. So I started up with live plants about 1.5 years ago. It's  been quite the learning experience. I started out with a large bottle of Flourish from my local petco. It turned a clear color and kept leaking/bubbling out the top & making a mess so I returned it. And purchased the Flourish starter pack which contains Excel, Flourish, Iron. I opened the Flourish & it was dark brown/green color- which I thought was off-- because my 1st bottle was a clear or light green color.

    I moved on to MarcusFishtanks Fertiluzer pump in January. After 4 months of using it I have seen some good results BUT the liquid has become like coagulated, I'm  not sure if its sugars in it lumping up OR if its mold and/or fungus. But there are some gnarly looking chunks all through it.

     

    Will Easy green become choppy like this other one? I was thinking of purchasing it, but I'm  afraid of buying a 4th fertilizer to experience it get chunky on me.

    Currently I am just using sachem root tabs and small doses of liquid ferts until I figure out what's floating in my bottle.

    Thanks in advance!

  2. I saw this post in an Email from Aquarium-Coop's beneath their articles. This is AMAZING!! Congratulations! I've been keeping Otto's for about 1 year now and they have not bred. I don't expect them to because I've read how hard it can be. Buy they are very cute, one of my favorite fish. 

    Keep us updated!

    • Thanks 1
  3. Hello, I've kept Mollies for several years, but for a long time it was just a small tank with 1-2 fish.

    About 1.5 years ago I started up a 20g Tall;  Right now the stocking is: 

    1 Balloon Belly. 2 Short fin mollies. 2 older fry. Newborn fry in a mesh box. 1- 1 year old Female BN pleco about 3 in long. I just thinned out the population to my LFS. (Lots of fry!)

    My concern is my Balloon belly. She's been in the 20g since the beginning. Over time she has lost some color & her balloon shape, her "belly" kind of looks flat, the only time is "balloons" is when she is carrying fry, she us very small. & only produces 2 fry every 3-4 months. But her color & shape loss has happened gradually over the past 8 months- not all at once. So I'm just wondering if it's normal to happen over time or if it's something else?

    The longest I've ever had 1 molly live was for almost 3 years. He was black/gold & I did not see him losing color.

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  4. 4 hours ago, Colu said:

    Sorry to hear he didn't make it

    Thank you, I think it was bacterial Septicemia with a secondary fungal infection. I read up on it & did some research, it says Nitrofurazone like in API-FURAN 2, would treat it. But my other Cory looks a lot better, there is one poorly looking Cory left from the order- but the barbells are regrowing, so i stopped using MARACYN, I added Indian Almond leaf, and 50% WC every other day, seems to be helping. I still cannot get the Maracyn froth on the aquarium surface to go away, I contacted fritz, they said continue WC & patience, and to turn down air stones/sponges if it is really bad.

    So hopefully the other Cory continues to improve!

  5. On 3/9/2021 at 1:03 PM, Colu said:

    Red patches are sign of bacterial infection I can't see the white fuzz in the picture it could a secondary fungal infection if you have ich x that treats some types of fungus and it can be used with maracyn  it takes time for the meds to work he won't get better over night it might take a week or two before he starts to show improvement

    It got really bad his whole side turned red & he had a huge fungus ball there, I checked on him Tuesday at 2:00am he was alive, peeked in tank at 7:00am while I was getting my daughter ready for school.. And he was dead. 

  6. 1 hour ago, Colu said:

    Red patches are sign of bacterial infection I can't see the white fuzz in the picture it could a secondary fungal infection if you have ich x that treats some types of fungus and it can be used with maracyn  it takes time for the meds to work he won't get better over night it might take a week or two before he starts to show improvement

    I can't take a clear photo of the fuzzy raised area sorry, I tried. He is still resting in the coconut hut. You mentioned it might take a while for an improvement, I'm worried that he might just not make it through the treatment. Yes I have Ich-X I purchased the smaller bottle- just to have on hand when I QT new fish.

  7. On 2/19/2021 at 7:13 AM, Danny LeVeck said:

    What’s the safest and most effective way to sterilize all your aquarium tools to prevent recontamination? 

    Hi, I am new to this forum, but just wanted to share; I had this exact Question. I noticed Petco uses a blue solution But Petsmart has a green one. I don't use bleach, it's harsh on my lungs. I did some googling & it seems a lot of people use peroxide. I tried it- soaked, then rinsed the next day, and was happy with the results! 

    I also found a product called "Jungle Net Soak" it's seems to be a Diluted methylene Blue Product, I ordered it just recently but it also seems to work!

    • Like 1
  8. 9 minutes ago, Colu said:

    You can get delayed mortality syndrome were all the stress from getting netted and bagged transported can cause them to die weeks later

    Aw that's too bad. I know ottos can be hard to acclimate- but it seems once they are- they can be pretty Hardy. I have 3 older ottos i've had for several months. Let me see if I can get a better photo of the other 2 corydora s in question.

  9. 6 minutes ago, Colu said:

    I have never had it happen on my plants when treating it could the meds cause the affected the plant roots froth on is caused by the med i will good away on it own what symptoms was the Otto showing be it died 

    He was 1 of 3 I ordered online. They didn't arrive in very good condition. 1 Otto died right off. The 2cd had a white dot on snout- then died with a fuzzy white infection on snout. The 3rd had symptoms of fin clamping. He ate his food fine, seemed responsive, his coloring was a bit odd- it was yellowy green instead of dark green like the other ottos. He looked okay when I checked on him last night, besides the occasional fin/tail clamping. But was dead next to sponge filter this morning.

  10. 8 hours ago, B055429 said:

    29gal planted with mollies platies and harlequins

    ph 8.0

    0 ammonia

    0 nitrite

    20ppm nitrates

    7 dkh

    17 dgh

    So we had ich in my sons 29. Treated with ich x until there were no signs on the fish and for two additional days after there were no signs. Fish look great and are much more active not looking stressed at all.

    Then we did 25% water change and did Corys “marinate method” with one more dose of ich x, 1 dose of maracyn and 1 dose of para-cleanse just so we’re doing all we can to prevent diseases etc. We dosed while refilling and immediately the sponge filters bubbles became super fine, like fizz from a soda. Two days later still the same and there are bubbles that roll around behind the filter and hover below water for about 5-8 second before rising. Was definitely not happening prior to maracyn and paracleanse. Anyone else notice this?

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    I used MARACYN on my 29g for the first time yesterday & the exact sand thing happened! Lots of fine bubbles- like a froth on the top of the tank. I have mine on a gang valve, so I can increase or decrease air pressure, I had to turn them way down. Must just be part of the medications.

  11. On 3/7/2021 at 9:58 AM, Colu said:

    I treat it like it's a 30 and put 3packets in

    I dosed yesterday with maracyn before work. Came home, checked on fish. They seemed okay. Woke up this morning & the 1 sickish-looking Otto had died. I have some tiny crypts & Java fern plantlets in a little suction cup box- to grow out, and all the roots are covered in white fuzzy stuff. Had to turn my sponge filter & air stone pressure down, because after adding maracyn I had froth type bubbles on the surface.

    Is this normal? The froth & white plant roots. Only plants up top were effected none down bottom.

     

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  12. 9 hours ago, joseph lambeth said:

    do you still have carbon filters?

    Do I still have carbon filters? As in are my carbon still in the filter? I have a large HOB Aqueon Filter, but it's modified. I added sponges, floss, intake sponge, and 2 carbon  pad inserts. I have not removed them yet. But if I start MARACYN treatment I will.

    2 hours ago, Colu said:

    Damage barbel is usually caused by poor water quality if its looking really bad i would treat with maracyn 

    I try to keep water quality best I can, the parameters stay pretty stable, no crazy fluctuations. He was at a hatchery, shipped to me, in QT for a month, then added to the 29g tank. This 29g I started in November & very slowly added fish, only a few at a time. I do have 2 boxes of Maracyn. Can I do a WC before starting it? It says 1 packet per 10g. 3 packets? Or less because its 29g & not 30g.

  13. On 3/3/2021 at 8:03 AM, Colu said:

    Remove your carbon Paracleanse won't harm plants I have used in my planted tank had no problems

    Hey, I talked to another well known member about this (on Fishlore) they said it may be stress causing these symptoms, gave me advice on not administering meds JUST yet, said to do WC every other day, add some more plants offering  hiding & cover for the cories, and adjust my lighting, to wait on the meds & observe to see if they improve. 

    This morning I noticed 1/3 new cories looks better- is coloring up, growing larger, and schooling with the elder cories.

    The other two new ones look bad. One had a hard time eating, after closer inspection, it seems the barbells have been injured or eroded, very pale, thin- probably from lack of food.

    The 3rd has some sort of infection. Its a fuzzy white growth on the underside. Pale still. But more active than the other sick Cory.

    What would be advisable to do Now with these new symptoms? Should I treat for a bacterial infection? I have not started the parasite meds yet.

    I will include photos of each of the sick cories.

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  14. 12 minutes ago, Colu said:

    I would recommend Paracleanse for treatment of parasties you will have to do 2-3 courses of treatment 2weeks apart

    Thank you. I have the smaller packet of Paraclense - because when I use meds, I normally remove the fish & use meds in a 5 gal. But in this case there's too many fish for 5gal. The ammonia would skyrocket. So I will start treatment today. & also order more for the 2week treatment then. Thank you fir the reply. I'll have to reread instructions. I know i usually have to remove carbon, but can I leave my plants in there while dosing? I don't want to kill any plants by mistake.

  15. Thank you for the Reply. On hand i have: 

    FRITZ maracyn 8ct

    Fritz Paraclense 10Ct

    API Aquarium Salt

    2 boxes Jungle Fungus Clear Fizz Tabs

    API Furan-2 10 packets

    Lifeguard all in one (unsafe for scalesss fish)

    Seachem KanaPlex 5g

    Seachem Metroplex 5g

    Panacur-C (for hydra)

    Microbe-Lift Herbtana & Artemis (herbal remedies petco sold me on buying)

    Will any of these work and are also okay to dose ALL fish in tank?

  16. Hi there. I have a few tanks, back in November I started up a new 29g planted tank. I moved 3 ottos from my 10g to the 29g. Then added 3 false julii from my 20g to the 29g, along with 4 molly fry (temporarily to grow out). I wanted to primarily dedicate this tank as a "Catfish Tank." The tank looked a bit lonely. The beginning of January I ordered: 1 Baby Female Super Red BN Pleco. 3 Ottocinculus. 4 more False Julii Corydoras. 1 Otto & 1 Cory died right away - first fish deaths I had in over a year. The 2cd Otto developed fungus & also died. 

    I have 1 Otto & 3 cories left from my online order. I Quarantined them for 3.7 weeks with no signs of disease. I added them to the 29g.

    Now im starting to get concerned. They have been in the 29g for almost 1 month and have not colored up. The 3 newer cories huddle together in a back corner, sometimes with clamped fins, I also see them rubbing against decorations and rocks - which is normally a sign of stress right?

    The 3 older cories are 2 females 1 male, one has a deformity she was born with on her side, but I've had them for 1 year almost since they were babies, they eat healthy, play, swim, very active, sift through sand, or clean plants, I feed them a healthy varied diet. They are very dark in color, I was trying to get a couple photos for comparisons. When the older cories are next to the newer- the color difference is HUGE. The older ones keep trying to coax the newer ones out to swim & play, the newer ones will join for a moment & then go right back to hiding. Also the 1 newer Otto left has been tail clamping.

    I added lots of plants, used sand, and made this tank as Corydora Friendly as I could. I can't see any fungus or white spots, could there be something bacterial or parasitic wrong with them that I cannot physically see?

    Entire Stocking of Tank:

    1 Baby BN Pleco

    4 Ottocinculus (3 older -1 new)

    6 False Julii Corydoras (3 old - 3 new)

    4 molly fry

    Various Plants & 20 Bladder Snails

    Ammonia: 0ppm   Nitrates: under 20ppm Nitrite: 0ppm Chlorine: 0ppm.  GH:200-300ppm.  Alkalinity(KH) 60ppm PH: 7.6-7.8 (plant fluctuations) Temp 76°-78° 

    The last 2 photos of are my older Cories for color comparison.

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  17. Thanks, that was my first thought- but I've never had to deal with swim bladder so I'm a little in the dark. Let me try a photo. its like he is stuck in a vertical position, and spinning sometimes, tonight He's curled up in the water sprite. He is part of my breeding pair, so im quite fond of him. I did a WC today & took out 6 gallons. Then added 7 new. Did filter maintenance & im not sure if it even helped him. I will research swim bladder more ty

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