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Posts posted by Stash Beardsley
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Correct, you'd be looking for the valve in the picture. Just get a T connector and put it somewhere in the air loop. Hook up the valve on the bottom of the T connector and you can bleed off a portion of the air. I also added a section of pvc on the bottom of the valve that I stuffed polyfil into not too tight and not too loose to quiet it down.
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1. Not sure, I have the aquarium coop one and works great.
2. The standard metal valves are not check valves. If the air supply is above the tanks then you don't need check valves. If it's below then you would need them.
3. If you're starting with 10 tanks then just create a bleed off valve to bleed off some air so the pump isn't struggling. As you add more tanks you can start closing it more and more.
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I did look into the minisplit after you mentioned it. But heat pumps are ineffiecient in my area. Western New York State has colder temps. I also tried an electric heater but didn't keep temp. To do it right I'd need a 240V garage heater but don't think the cost of electricity would be worth it. I do think the issue is a lack of oxygen in the room after reading the comment from BenA. Either way a new heater is on the way to make sure. My plan is to use an inline vent fan that I just happen to have. Going to hook a vent outside and have the fan sucking outside air in. Already ordered a temperature controller so I can set it to turn the fan on as the room is coming up to temp. and then turn off when it's at temp. and the heater should be off when the fan is off. Then i can have another vent with like an automatic door that opens on a timer to blow air out of the room into the outside like once every hour or so to exhaust any build up of stuff. Think that should work.
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8 hours ago, tekjunkie28 said:
The manufacturer doesn't know anything about what size unit you need. 10k BTUs in a 250sqft basement area is INSANE. My whole 700 sqft basement is 9k BTU and its uninsulated. There is a lot that goes into load calculations. I got books on this stuff that 4" thick. Propane doesnt burn clean at all. It burns clean as in there is less soot but its still very dirty. The reason everyone thinks it burns clean is that the gas industry and blocked a lot of studies and publications. That is slowly changing.
A CO detector is barely adequate. Unless you paid about $100+ for it then it wont be of much use. They barely prevent you from living. They DO NOT protect you from being poisoned. I have used ventless gas logs before I have ripped them out in place of direct vent gas logsl
Wouldn't running a smaller heater for longer create the same amount of CO as running a larger heater for less time? I have a CO detector in the room. Outside of the room on the other side of the basement as well. Whole basement is 1200 sq ft. I just walled off a portion of the area for my fish room. Also have a CO detector in my upstairs hallway outside of the bedrooms.
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1 hour ago, tekjunkie28 said:
Yea... um... this is a good way to die.... easily.. 30k btus is WAY too much. How much of your basement walls are above ground? 10k btu would still probably be too big.. Also vent is VERY VERY dangerous to your health. Hopefully ventless will be comepletely outlawed nationwide. Some areas are already moving in that direction. In time you will likely notice unusual fish deaths. That water is just going to absorb all those toxins.
Either go electric or get a minisplit.
10,000 btu is rated up to 250 sq ft by the manufacturer. Way too small for my 500 sq ft room. Propane burns clean. I have a CO2 detector in the room. Also have a dehumidifier for excess vapor. Do you have any experience with using them? I was just wondering how reliable it was using one.
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I also do realize that I need to insulate the room prior to next winter. But the flame was cycling on and off. Not like it was staying on 24/7 because it couldn't hold temp.
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I installed a Mr Heater 30,000 btu ventless propane radiant heater in my 500 sq foot basement fishroom. It currently isn't insulated and we're in the Northeast part of the country. I went oversized just to make sure there's no problem in the winter. First day I set the heater and it was off in the morning. Second day after restarting it was off when I got home after work. I thought maybe it was set too warm and it was using up all the oxygen in the room. Played around with it for a few days. It seemed better for a day and then it started turning itself off again. I disconnected the venting going to the upstairs room and hooked a fan up to it. It was pulling a fresh supply of air into the fish room and I also cracked the fish room door open. I also took apart the pilot and cleaned the pilot orifice. I also adjusted the thermocouple so it was sitting farther into the pilot flame. The propane supply is from a large tank that's regulated coming into the house. Watched the pilot last night and it will be fine then it starts to flicker and goes partial. This then kicks off the gas valve because the thermocouple isn't hot enough. I don't think it's an air supply issue. Already have another one on the way and returning the old one. If the new one gives me the same issue it must be an air supply problem. Has anyone had issues with this? If so, how did you overcome it? Just wondering in case the new one does the same thing. Although, it seems like it was a bad thermocouple or valve.
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Was looking for recommendations on good books related to Neocaridina breeding, color lines, culling, etc.
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I have three pairs of guppies with fry that I am quarantining and just started the medication trio tonight. Didn't start medication right away when I got them. One of the females dropped fry and they're a weekish old now. Should I still wait 7 days to feed?
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I've wondered the same thing in the past. I now have an entire basement to pack with tanks. I've thought about dabbling in native fish. There are youtubers out there that are into them.
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In my old apartment we had water with ph issues. I tried using the ph up and down water treatments. But the buffering of the water would always put the ph back to where it was. It ended up being worse for the fish because it was always going up down up down. Here's some info. I found from aquarium co op.
"If your pH is above 7.8 and you need to lower it, unfortunately that is a much harder task. We recommend using an R/O filter if you absolutely must lower it. An alternative would be to use a planted tank and stop changing water. This will lead to acidification of the water over time. When the water gets to the level you'd like, you can then do very small water changes periodically to maintain that level and safe parameters for your fish."
pH In Your Aquarium
WWW.AQUARIUMCOOP.COMWe generally like to run all of our tanks at a pH of 7.0 to 7.8. If you don't have this range, it doesn't mean it can't work for your fish. It's just a great range...- 1
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Luckily a female just dropped about 30 fry yesterday. As they age am I looking for a red tail and dorsal fin mostly? Does the main body coloration matter or is there a color I'm looking for?
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Hybrids are cool, they happen in nature frequently too. Do you find that using the egg tumbler has a higher hatch rate than if the parent mouth brooded? I have yet to breed any mouth brooders but will most likely in the future. How do you get the eggs from the parent?
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I checked out the aquarium co op trio medication sales page and it says they can all be used together safely. I don't really see any abnormality from the picture. I would say maybe monitor it once a day and take a picture on you phone so you can compare them and see if it's getting worse. Can also start dosing with salt as well. Follow these guidelines.
Aquarium Salt: When and How to Use It Properly
WWW.AQUARIUMCOOP.COMShould aquarium salt be used in freshwater tanks? Some people recommend dosing it all the time to provide fish with essential electrolytes while others... -
Air pump question
in General Discussion
Posted
Right now I have it going in a loop 22 feet lengthwise and 12 feet width wise, large rectangle. With linear piston pumps you can add multiple pumps onto the same system if you outgrow just the one.