Mercfh

Yeah im ok with that. Im really just stumped on sizes and what all I can fit. Raphael + Bumblebee catfish are probably my "biggest wants".

So im already having MTS right now, and while I do have a 29G fully stocked community tank (It's more the "family tank") im already looking at bigger tank options for what I consider my favorite types of fish: Loaches/Catfish (All the bottom dwellers). im not sure what a good size is to do. I want something decent but not like crazy big. The fish I really want to have in there are: Various Pleco's Bumblebee catfish Raphael Catfish Maybe a single pictus catfish (I know they get large so) Loaches (Kuhli) Cories Ropefish or some sort of freshwater eel like fish? Maybe a black knife ghostfish (Although i've heard they can get maybe too big) Obviously cant fit all of them. But has anyone had experience keeping a "mostly bottom dweller" type fishtank? I eyeballed maybe a 55 gallon...but is that too small for most? Also any other catfish/loach/eel like fishes that are interesting?

I don't notice any of them struggling so I think mines ok for now. It's an AquaClear 50 so it's nothing crazy. Most of my fish are bottom dwellers anyways so I don't think they feel much.

Yeah that's more flow in my aquarium. Would something like what you have set up be ok for like a guppy or only high flow fish?

Is there any good indications of "too much flow"? I don't think any of my stock is particularly sensitive to flow but then again im still new to the hobby.

Just to reduce flow I guess? I basically did it for aethetic reasons but I guess it's more "even" if it's in the middle.

Oh ok cool. What is your thoughts on the bubbler/HOB location? There doesn't appear to be like a "crazy flow" but there is def. some flow coming from the HOB end but none of the fish seem like they are "fighting" the flow.

I moved it down to 75. I guess just because the guppies seem to like around 76+. Also here is a picture of the current aquarium. HOB filter/heater is on the left, bubbler on the right.:

What's maybe a better temp? I have pleco's in there as well and guppies? Most stuff for corys I see says mid to high 70's? (Is it also bad the bubbler and the hangback filter are on different sides? im worried about flow causing disturbances) but I doubt bubbler affects flow much?

Stocking is: 2 plecos (smaller kinds) 6 cories 2 snails 4 guppies I have a HOB Aquaclear 50 (on one side) and a bubbler on the other side. Temp is at 77. Not sure if it matters that the HOB is on one side the bubbler on the other (surely bubblers can't make "that" much flow) FWIW none of the others have been doing that.

So I have an Aquaclear HOB 50 filter, this morning I found one of my peppered cories stuck to the filter intake. I turned off the intake and he seemed pretty lethargic...but no fins seemed ripped. He's acting ok now tonight...but should he be ok? He seemed just stuck to the filter for awhile. He was breathing fast at first but it's slowed down.

Pictures of the 2. Can't quite tell what they are. Also does my tank seem appropriately stocked? or overstocked Also does my pH seem to match what I thought? (Based off the API color kit) It's hard to tell but it looks around 7.8

So I have a new 29Gallon Tank. It seems to be cycled as ammonia and nitrite are staying at zero (Although nitrate isn't going up much, but I have a lot of plants) However im having trouble figuring out what my PH/GH/KH are (Im using Tetra strips + API Master + KH/GH tests) Attached are pictures. Here are the results of the API dropper test: KH - 5 drops (So 89.5 ppm) GH - 10 drops (So 179 ppm) (Which seems to match the tetra kit) So overall it seems like my parameters are: PH - 7.8-ish? (Weirdly the PH out of the tap is like.....8.4 or something) KH -80-90ish (I Think, the tetra kit had the KH edges turning blue...but API test confirms around 90-ish) GH - Probably between 150-200? overall are these ok parameters? These were tested in my aquarium 1 day after a water change. The ph out of the tap is way higher for some reason? (Not sure why). I have plants and driftwood in my aquarium. My main concern is of course for my fish: 2 Pleco's (I think zebra or striped pleco, they said they were bristlenose but I don't think so) 6 peppered corys 4 guppies 2 nerite snails Also suggestions for tankmates? or am I maxed out? EDIT: 1 note, I use prime to dechlorinate....but it almost likes like the total chlorine is slightly off white....maybe just the lighting? I even usually slightly OVER dose the prime so I can't imagine there would be any chlorine?

I think they say actually 48 hours but probably better to be on the safe side. Glad to hear people dose for the full volume of the tank during water changes because I feel like that's just safer than underdosing.

Im still going to do water changes regardless (When it hits .5ppm) or every 48hours since thats when prime wears off. When it comes to de-chlorinating water since it's kinda hard to gauge how much is going in (or if you use a system like the python where you can fill it from the tap): Is it ok to just put whatever the "total amount" of dechlorinator for the total tank size in BEFORE putting in the new water? Or is that dangerous? (I guess it's better to do a little over right?) Because sometimes it's hard to really say "Oh I removed exactly 10 gallons" or whatever. Surely the extra dechlorinator wouldn't hurt the fish if the extra was in there while you put the new water in? (Sorry if the question is confusing)

Ok thanks, that makes sense. Since im dosing with prime everyday i'll probably try not to let it get over .5 and check daily.

When do you think it's worth doing a water change? the fish in cycling guide most people refer to (Using seachem prime) says 50% at 2.0 but maybe when it hits 1 or .5 doing a 25% change would be better? The fish at least seem ok, they are eating and swimming around normally.

The issue from i've seen is that even with dosing seachem it doesn't change the test itself (Which is why I guess i've seen it suggested to change water when it hits 2.0 of Ammonia (or 4.0 of Ammonia + Nitrite) On the plus side I purchased 2 Driftwood and about 4 plants from a cycled tank so that'll probably help? My Ammonia seems to be sticking around .25 for the past 2 days now.

How often should I rinse my HOB Media? Just when I do water changes weekly I guess? Also the heater doesn't seem to be coming on constantly, so I guess it's enough? (Our temp in our house stays around 68-70)

So with my new aquarium I did a TON of research and I think I felt confident on the fish-in cycling method. I have a 29 Gallon aquarium and the test strips as well as Seachem Prime and Stability (Both dosed yesterday). Later in the day I purchased 4 guppies (To keep the bio-load at a minimum) and 6 plants (Some Java Ferns and some Anacharis, which the Anacharis came from a cycled tank so that should help). I thought maybe a couple of small snails probably wouldn't hurt the bio-load. My aquarium sand also came with a few packs of "bacteria starter" so I tossed those in too (Couldn't hurt). The fish seem fine and are eating, and aren't like gasping for air or anything. That being said I want to make sure I understand the process: Keep checking tests everyday (I have the API test kit) If you see Ammonia, dose it with Seachem prime (1 "dose" can handle 1 ppm of Ammonia from what i've read) (Here is where I get confused and read conflicting steps): Sometimes I see "If it goes above .2 do a partial water change" (Does partial mean 50% or like 25%?) however https://fishlab.com/fish-in-cycle/ states if it goes above 2ppm do a 50% change. This reddit thread (From a chemist presumably) sorta indicates that you should not OVER change your water if ammonia or nitrite is between 1-2 (https://www.reddit.com/r/PlantedTank/comments/ttdmvc/heres_your_friendly_reminder_that_your_green_api) Keep doing this basically until Ammonia is 0 and Nitrites are 0 and you see some nitrates There is a bit of confusion because Seachem prime doesn't "get rid" of Ammonia, so you still see it on the test? I guess thats why you don't change water till it's at 2 (or 4 combined Ammonia and Nitrite). However if you change the water do you still dose it with Prime based on the new result I guess? Secondly any thoughts on what my reads are? Im worried my PH is too high at like 8+ but my Ammonia looks to be around .5 (Although I read seachem prime can give false ammonia readings):

So I did as much research as possible but in the end there is always more questions lol. I purchased a 29 Gallon tank and put some plants in it for now while I wait to cycle. That being said I had some questions: Is Aqueon lights ok? I got the Optibright + (W/Remote). I want to do low tech plants so I figured this was enough. I got the Aquaclear filter (Aquaclear 50). Is that enough for a 29 Gallon? Also it has 3 different filter media (Which I used) but they need to be changed A LOT. Is it really necessary? Or do only some need changing (Wouldn't that destroy the bacteria?) I got Seachem prime and stability. Since I have a 29Gallon and their dosage is usually 20 or 40 gallons should I "under" dose or "over" dose a little bit. IE: Can I "OVER" condition or OVER bacteria the water with these products? (IE: if it's 1 cap for 20 gallons should I just use 2 caps?) Speaking of dechlorinating water, when I do water changes how do I dechlorinate it first? (If im using a water change system like the python) Is it ok to do it after? Is a HOB Filter enough oxygen for a 29 Gallon tank? The HOB Filter came with 3 media (Some bio ceramic circle things, a carbon filter, and a sponge) someone said I shouldn't use the carbon one right now while im cycling the tank? Is that true? Lastly. I bought a 100 watt thermometer (from some italian company? they said was good)...is that enough? What's a good temp for a community tropical tank? I have it set at 77 currently Thanks, I know it's a lot of questions but it's just things I didn't think of when did my research.