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AdamScott
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Posts posted by AdamScott
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Reds and blues sell like hot cakes around me
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1. Ottos!
2. Red cherry shrimp! Reason I got into the hobby in the first place. So peaceful, good cleaners and fun to watch!
3. Vallisneria. Seems to be the only plant that really thrives in my tank. Spreads like crazy and super easy to trim. I'm going to attach a photo of what it looks like in my tank currently.
4. 75gal is my first and only aquarium.
5. Really enjoy using and working with CaribSea's Eco Complete. My rooted plants all seem to be doing well. The initial planting is a bit tough but as long as you have patience it wasn't too bad.
6. Driftwood, rocks..anything that looks natural.
7. Fluval Plant 3.0. Only light I have experimented with and it's given me 0 issues.
8. Tidal 110. Only have great things to say about this filter. Quiet, easy setup and seems to get the job done. I also have a fluval cannister filter for my turtle tank which I love as well.
9. A good set of aquarium tweezers and scissors.
10. Easy Green products all the way!
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On 3/29/2022 at 10:30 AM, Widgets said:
The HOB input is on the lower right back and the output is on the upper right back facing forward. You have a primary circulation on the right side across the top (back to front), then down the front and across the bottom (front to back). I see two primary ways to get more circulation on the left.
1. You could use a water bottle diffuser to route the HOB output along the back towards the left. There are lots of posts all over the internet of doing this.
2. You could put a sponge filter with a power head in the left rear, with the output along the back wall towards the right.
I'm going to try option number 2 by placing a power head at the left rear facing towards to the right side. I was thinking of picking up the Co-Op's powerhead and placing a medium pre-filter sponge on the intake to act as a filter for the left side as well. Hopefully that does the trick, thanks!
On 3/29/2022 at 10:49 AM, lefty o said:its always been my experience that the wider tanks, 55/75/90/120's etc do best with some sort of filtration on each side of the tank. a powerhead might do the trick to minimize the dead spots.
I was thinking of simply using a sponge filter on the left side with an airstone and while I would get surface agitation, I think i'm going to go with a powerhead and a sponge filter on the intake to satisfy both filtering the tank and sufficient water flow.
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Hi all! My 75g has been up and running for a few months now however i'm starting to notice a deadspot in front of my driftwood as seen circled in the picture attached. I'm thinking of purchasing the Co-Op's Powerhead to provide more water flow to the area as my HOB filter is located on the right side behind the guppy grass wall and not providing the appropriate amount of water circulation. I'm primarily trying to breed shrimp so I steered away from adding extra flow in the past but there has been algae buildup in that area so I'm hoping this could relieve that.
My question is where would be the best placement to add a powerhead in my tank to have consistent water movement/flow throughout?
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Has anyone seen this before? Looks to be the only one affected in my colony
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I am receiving my first batch of RCS this week but nervous about water changes. Prior to owning shrimp, I would use a python and do 30% water changes every 2-3 weeks. I understand RCS are more susceptible to death and disease with larger water changes.
To those RCS owners out there, when would you recommend on changing water and what is the safest method using tap water/dechlorinator?
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On 12/6/2021 at 2:51 PM, Patrick_G said:
My stem plants in my 75 gal often loose the leaves on the bottom 30% of the plant. I’m pretty sure it’s due to not enough light/shading. The Fluval is a great light but doesn’t seem to have enough par to reach shaded areas of a 20” deep tank. I’ve been just cutting off the bad parts and replanting the tops. A benefit is the PSO spreads out and gets denser!
Nice tank! BtwHi Patrick, that sounds like it would make sense as it is only affecting the bottom leaves and some in the middle of the plant. The stem plants shown in my pictures are going like weeds as I provide plenty of root tabs and new growth is bright green. I saw on Aquarium Coop, Cory recommends 2 Fluval 3.0's for a medium/high light on a 75g - I know what i'll be asking for Christmas! Hopefully this will solve the issue and provide more light to those lower leaves.
On 12/6/2021 at 4:07 PM, Mmiller2001 said:I agree with @Patrick_G. I would also increase water changes to 30-50% per week and increase dosing to reach 20ppm NO3 and hold it there.
I was originally only doing water changes when nitrates reach around 20ppm because I'm preparing for RCS which I will be receiving next week. I read they don't appreciate change much so I was trying to practice keeping water changes as infrequent and little as possible while keeping nitrates low..this might seem to have a negative effect on my plants however.
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On 12/6/2021 at 8:14 AM, Mmiller2001 said:
Can you tell me more about your water and system? GH, KH substrate and dosing amounts? Filtration, water change amounts and frequency?
Is that a 75 gallon tank?
Hi yes, 75g. I dose 8 squirts of EasyGreen/EasyCarbon once per week. Only do water changes when nitrates get around 20ppm, no set water changing schedule. Lighting is a single Fluval 3.0 which is maxed (except blue light) with 1 hr ramp up, ramp down..9 hours total a day. Filtration is a large sponge filter and a Seachem Tidal 110 set to low.
Parameters are as follows..
PH: 7.2
Ammonia: 0ppm
Nitrite: 0ppm
Nitrate: 10ppm
Hardness: 100ppm
KH: 50ppm
Chlorine/Copper: 0ppm
Livestock: Ramshorn snails 100+, MTS snails -
Bumping this to hopefully find an answer!
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This is my full setup. I have one 48in Fluval 3.0 that I keep on for 8 hours a day. Not sure if the light is insufficient?
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Does anyone know what is causing this to the bottom of my pogostemon stellatus octopus plants? The top of the stem is growing rapidly but after awhile the bottom of the plant develops a black sludge and begins to droop. I just recently placed plenty of root tabs in the substrate and have a consistent light cycle.
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Some of my plants seemed to have melted/turned brown due to lack of sufficient nutrients. I’ve since corrected the problem and new bright green growth seems to be growing again at the tops of each plant. My worry is that all of the melted leaves will stay that brown color. Is it best to remove the melted plants and just replant the tops that are green or hope that the leaves will correct themselves in time?
Any help is appreciated!
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Hi all. Recently I've noticed my blue ramshorn snails have been dying off over the last week or so - all that's left is empty white shells as shown in the pictures below. I also have a few nerites, pond snails and MTS snails in the tank as well that seem to be doing fine. I feed 2 algae wafers every 3 days because i'm already dealing with slight overpopulation with the pond snails. No fish or other species besides those snails in the tank. Tank has been established for roughly 4 months and has grown quite a bit of algae on the glass and on the plants. Any idea what could be causing this? Water parameters below:
PH: 7.5
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0.25
Nitrate: 0
Hardness: 100ppm
KH: 80ppm
Water temp: 81 (maybe a little too high?)
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Hi all,
I bought crushed coral off of Amazon and was sent a bag of aragonite by mistake. I am looking to raise my PH from 7.0 to 7.5. Would aragonite do the same thing as crushed coral? Interested in what you all use and if you ever tried using aragonite before. Thanks!
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On 4/28/2021 at 6:56 AM, gardenman said:
I agree. I bought some ramshorn snails then got some free on plants and I'm very happy with them. They're the best algae eaters I've had.
You don’t ever notice them eating healthy plants, do you? Was thinking of getting some myself and I know they eat decaying plant matter but wasn’t sure about healthy plant leaves
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After 2 years of research and planning I'm proud to say I've finally set up my first planted aquarium! 😁 HUGE shoutout to @Cory for all the instructional Youtube videos, blog posts and advice on aquariums. And thank you to you all for the insight and motivation to start my own underwater ecosystem!!
All the plants pictured came from the Co-Op and have a few more on the way from LRB Aquatics. Below are my tank specs:Aquarium Size: 75g
Lighting: Fluval 3.0
Substrate: 160lbs of Eco-Complete
Plants: Pogostemon stellatus octopus, Anubias, Val, Crypt Wendtii, red dwarf lily bulb, (pearl weed and rotala rotundifolia coming soon)
Filtration: Sponge filter, Tidal 75 (on low flow)
Fertilizer: Aquarium Co-Op Easy Green and Root Tabs
I've been seeing conflicting responses on when to best start fertilizing a new tank. Plants were just planted today and not sure if best to wait a few days to acclimate or begin fertilizing and planting root tabs immediately. I am also looking for lighting settings based on my Fluval 3.0 and depth of aquarium. Any advice is appreciated and glad to officially be part of this amazing community 😄
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Leila (all brown) and Lemieux (brown and white). My fiancée and I rescued them a few months back. They're 6 months old and came from the same litter. They're looking forward to daddy setting up his 75g next week so they can watch the fishies swim around.
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On 10/7/2020 at 11:50 PM, Lee Miller said:
I used the stuff @Corytalks about. The spray can stuff from Walmart. Plasti Dip. Worked great on my 5g betta palace.
I've heard this has a tendency to peel off. Have you experienced anything like that?
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42 minutes ago, Pekitivey said:
I'm happy to hear you've got the patience to do it like that! Patience pays dividends in this hobby! Don't forget to fertilize those plants to maximize success! Especially in a new tank!! Would not mind a pic on this thread when you get your self up and going. Best of luck!!
Absolutely will be back to post something when I'm up and running, thanks for recommendations!
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2 hours ago, Pekitivey said:
There are a few good species that come to mind when establishing a shrimp coloney. I am currently doing it in a 10 gallon with guppies, they also produce like crazy and it is so fun to watch. once everyone is fed well ive never seen a guppy hassle a shrimp. The fact i have it planted helps to, but the shrimp are often hard to spot (i hope with time there will be enough to easily see). I started with like 8 rec cherry.
Also Bristlenose plecos seem like a great option. With a tank that big you could easily do a few pairs as long as you havesome caves for them. They will also breed super easy and fun to watch. When I can didicate a tank big enough that is what I wanna do. Lots and lots of guppies, shrimp and bristtle nose. Maybe even sell some back to LFS and get some credit or free food or somthing.
Honestly this sounds amazing. I've had guppies when I was younger and was completely unaware of all the beautiful guppy species and colors of this beautiful fish! My plan when I start up my tank is to buy as many plants as I can. Let them grow and develop along with my tank for a few months. Once my tank has fully cycled and my plants have grown in, I plan to start off with as many cherry shrimp as I can afford (probably around the 20-25 range). Once they start breeding and established a massive colony it won't be until then where I look at guppies. So many options and so much color! Like you said, provided you have plenty of hiding spots, there shouldn't be an issue. Bristlenose are also an option as I believe they would all live happily under the same water parameters. Can't wait!
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5 minutes ago, Leo2o915 said:
I would go with two sponge filters on each side and would do a he Seachem Tidel which has a surface skimmer and you can put a pre filter sponge on it if you really want to go that route but sponge filters are ur best friend
I looked into the Seachem Tidal series but was nervous about the surface skimmer. How would you cover up the slots? The intake can be covered up with a sponge so that shouldn't be an issue.
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Just now, Brandy said:
Wellllll, will it STAY plants and invertebrates though? I mean if I had 75 gallons just sitting there...and the shrimp were well established and the plants had filled in...That is a lot of unused volume. I think a lot of us would find a thing that would go in there. But maybe @AdamScott has much more self control than I do.
Hah! You're absolutely right. The goal is to establish a high populated shrimp population but after accomplishing that..i'm not sure what direction I will go in in terms of finding other species. I know it is not recommended to keep fish with shrimp but i'm sure some nano fish shouldn't decrease the population that hard, especially with plenty of hiding spots.
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5 minutes ago, Daniel said:
In a heavily planted 75 gallon tank what is the proper amount of filtration needed? For the biological filtration the plants and the gravel will provide all the surface area and more for the beneficial bacteria that convert nitrogen.
A sponge filter could serve 2 purposes. It would provide additional substrate for the beneficial bacteria to live on and it could trap some particulate matter. And the bubbling and the water flow provided by the sponge filter are good all around.
That's probably all you need for filtration in a 75 gallon shrimp tank.
Thank you for the insight. You would recommend one large sponge filter for a 75g? Interesting.
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27 minutes ago, Ben Ellison said:
I'd probably lean towards the 70. Also you might consider a matten filter over a sponge. Most shrimp keepers love em. I've never used one though
I just did some research on mattenfilters and while it would create tons of surface area I don't think I could tolerate the look of it. This tank will be displayed in my living room for everyone to see and I don't think i'll be able to hide it well enough. While I am losing an opportunity for tons of surface space, I will have many plants in there which I hope the shrimp will enjoy.
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Hair Algae on Substrate
in Plants, Algae, and Fertilizers
Posted
I am trying to remove this hair algae that is starting to spread over my substrate. I attempted to remove by hand but it latches on to my substrate and I end up losing a good deal of gravel.
Looking for best ways to remove and prevent hair algae from returning.
Nitrates at 10ppm. Lighting on fixed schedule 7 hours a day. Afraid to increase nitrates any higher to avoid stressing out neos. Weekly 20% water changes.
Maybe Easy Carbon?