riioKen

Hi guys, The tank is a 85L (~20g) 80x30x40cm (5cm substrates). The tank is medium planted with lots of red plants (alternanthera reineckii, Ludwigia), montecarlo, Bacopa, ecinodorus sword red flame and nymphea red lotus. My current light is a chihiros WRGB 2 SLIM 60, but I think it isn't enough (it gives 27lm per litres). I was considering the wrgb 2 pro series, what do you think? Considering that the tank is 80cm long, should I get wrgb 2 pro 60 (it extends to 80cm) or get the pro 80 (it extends 100cm)? WRGB 2 pro 60 = 6500lm (around 78lm per litres) WRGB 2 pro 80 = 8100lm (96lm per litres). Can you help me?

I'm from Italy.

Unfortunately I live in Europe, here only twinstar and chihiros are available.

As i said, i have a WRGB II Slim60 2400lm, considering that i have a lot of red plants, do you think that i should upgrade it with a stronger ones? I was thinking about WRGB II 60 that gives me 4500lm, or WRGB II PRO80 8100lm. The problem that i have with the Slim60 (an to a certain extent, even with WRGB II 60cm) is that my tank is 80cm long, so the light decrease a lot on the side. What do you think? Im not an aquascaper but i see that my red plants aren't that red.

I LOVE YOUR TANK, its so clean and organized. I have a question, as i said, im using a "leaner" approach" (APT 3 Complete), but this morning i have dosed 5ml of fert instead o 2.5ml, the nitrates are <10ppm while phosphate is around 0,25mg (which is still very low, it should be at 1mg). How did you manage to get this exactly measurements? I have EI dry ferts that i can use, i can even mix it or use it dry directly to the tank. Which do you think is better? Another thing, the light turn On at 9AM and turn OFF at 6PM, this way i can't enjoy the tank, beacause i work till 7PM, i used a split photoperiod but some suggested me that was bad. Do you think that can i increase the light on to 10H? or maybe instead of turning light on at 9AM i change it to a bit later in the morning? Btw im reading your journal, thanks, its amazing.

Yes, and some hair algae (some are brown and some green) Yes, i read it somewhere, my Po4 levels are 0,25mg x Litres. Ok, I'll do this. Ok, so I'll move this way: Tomorrow I'll dose 5ml APT 3 (increased from 2,5ml). I have increased CO2 a bit, so tomorrow I'll check the pH before CO2 goes on (around 7.4 anyway), mid day and in the evening but I think that it should ok (when the light is off, i use air pump to let the oxygen back into tank). Yes.

Ok, do you think that I should remove the algae that I have, or if the adjustment works, are enough to kill/starve the algae? I have posted some photos. Thanks

5ml x 100L 3.8 ppm K Potassium, 1,8ppm No3, 0,7ppm Po4, 0,05ppm Fe, + magnesium and trace. right now, I'm dosing it 2,5ml x 6 days for 85L, maybe i do a full dose of 5ml daily for 6 days and then 50%wc?

So you think that im i having algae due the lack of fertilization? what about double the amount of the pump that i usally do with the apt3? a guy said to me to even buy APT 1 zero which is even leaner (almost 0 macro). I can even mix dry ferts that i bought from plantedBox, or maybe use Nilocg Thrive C (even if it should be used in low tanks without co2). About fertilization, usually i dose it on the outflow filter, im pretty sure that it is well spread wide in the tank

Hi guys, i need help, after i removed salvinia minima from the tank, i had an (expected) algae bloom, GSA and "filamentous". The tank is medium planted. Reading online, i know that Estimative Index methods, is an "overdosing" ferts method, so that plants doesn't have any deficiencies. Im not doing an EI method, but more a "lean one" (APT 3), but considering the high stock level and feeding, probably i have plenty macros in the tank (everytime i test nitrates, it is always 0 or < 5ppm). Now the question is, if im getting algae, and im doing a leaner fertilization (considering the high stock level) is because i have some deficiency? I know that GSA is always related to phosphate, which i bought a test but i can't test right now, should i check deficiency somewhere else? or i dose too much fertilization? which isn't clear to me, considering the "leaning method", if im struggling that much, how the EI user deal with their algae? Extra info about tank, water param etc. Tank: 80x30x40cm (5cm inert substrate), 85L. Light: Chihiros WRGB2 Slim60 (100% around 26-27lm x litres for 8h (+30m ramp up and +30m dim) Co2: inline diffuser attached very close at the start of the outflow hose. Filter: Oase biomaster thermo 600 (300gph). Fertilizer that i own: Dry ferts micro and macro from PlantedBox (never used), Nilocg Thrive C (i bought it when i haven't co2), APT 3 Complete (im using it rn, used for about 2 months). The tank is up since January, but i had it without fish for about 3-4 months because I was setting it up (for both cycle and planting). Plants and livestock: 12 CPD 11 Ember tetra 6 Pygmy 6 Otos 2 Amano I feed them 2 times per day, sinking pellets (danio, tetra and cories), veggies (zucchini and cucumber) and wafers (otos). Ludwigia, Bacopa, nymphaea lotus red, Egeria densa, Montecarlo and echinodorus red flame. About water parameters: Ammonia and Nitrites 0. Nitrates 5ppm and Phosphate 0,25mg x Litres Ph without Co2 is around 7.6 Ph with Co2 is 6.8 - 7.0 (the shade is almost identical THANKS API) GH 11 - KH 8 Co2 on 2 hour before light on (changed today, before was 1h) and off 1h before light off, Drop checker now after 8h that Co2 is injected is "not so dark" green My schedule is 2 pump and half (every pump is 1ml) of APT 3 Complete (today i only did 1, a guy said that due feeding, i had too much po4 in the tank) for 6 days, sunday i don't fertilize and in the evening i do 50% WC and start again next week. Tell me if i missed something, thanks.

Ok, you suggest the regular one, not the Thera A+ which have garlic and the probiotix which is based on the Thera A+ plus probiotic. About otocinclus, I'm using Tetra pleco pellets, which I didn't know that tetra was a cheap brand. Some eats the pellets but some not. That's why I was evaluating both NLS pellets and algae gel. Do you think should I add Hikari micro pellets in the diet? Which one? I'm pretty new in "high quality" fish food.

Hi, in my aquarium I have celestial pearl danio, ember tetra and otocinclus. I need food for them. Where I live I can find new life spectrum and hikari (regular small fish 0.5mm or thera A+ or probiotix), for the otocinclus I was thinking about algae max and (or) new life spectrum algae gel. Which one should I get? Can you make me a list of every food that I need? I mean would be great and my fishes will thank you.

I'm a bit more convinced to get 12 cpd, 10 ember tetra (or maybe chili rasbora?) And 10 pygmy cory with 1 mystery snail and some shrimp. How it sounds? Without the gourami, I'd like to let the aggression out of the tank.

Great, then only 1 gourami in the tank ahahaha

A thing that maybe could work, is to aim the Lily pipe to the glass and let the flow bounce on the glass. This should stops the flow a lot. Surely I'll do test before buying fish

No, @jwcarlson, this filter is around 1200 L/h, around 300? 330gph, without any biomedia. 600 in the name is the "suitable for aquarium up to 600 litres". I would like to have a canister due to CO2 injection with Lily pipes, so it gave a cleaner look of the tank. There is a test made by MJ aquascaping, he have Biomaster 850 (1550L/H), with alle the media in, and the reactor for CO2 he has around 700-800L/h, which is half the flow. I'll surely do a test, before adding any fish.

You mean that I should get rid of Biomaster thermo 600, and buy a smaller one? Maybe like Biomaster 250 or 350?

About the flow of the water, I heard that the filter is too strong for my aquarium. If I can't reduce properly the flow, considering that I have lily pipes which redirect the flow to the top of the tank, is it ok, or I really need a less powerful filter? if needed I can change the filter with a less powerful one. Is the oase Biomaster 250 or 350 good? Or an eheim 2275?

About the strong flow, I think that I can reduce it in some way. The tank is already cycled, fishless, with a fluval U2 Internal. I'm buying the Biomaster Thermo 600 in case I want to upgrade the tank, if it is too strong, do you think that a Biomaster Thermo 250 will be better? I found a great deal, Biomaster Thermo 600 with 3kg Seachem matrix at 180€, that's why I was considering it. About fish quantity, which stock sounds better 1) cpd (12/16), ember (8/10), honey gourami (2), pygmy corydoras (6), 2)cpd (12), ember (8), honey gourami (1), corydoras panda (6) 3)cpd (16), 2 Honey gourami, 6 panda corydoras, oto affinis (6). 4) idk, maybe can you give me an input? I like cpd, ember tetra, honey gourami, amano shrimp, corydoras (pygmy, adolfoi, panda). I'm open to suggestions. I'd like a rich and colorful tank.

Hi guys, i need some stocking ideas, the tank is 80x30x35cm, planted with co2. I was thinking about: if 2 schooling fish can be added Celestial pearl danio: 12 or 16 (i need a bit help about quantity) Ember tetras: 10 or 12 Honey gourami: 2 Amano Shrimp: 5-10 if 1 schooling of fish - only CPD without tetra, then 6 oto without shrimp. The filter is a Oase Biomaster Thermo 600 (3kg of seachem matrix) with lily pipes and inline co2