Scaperoot Posted July 13 Share Posted July 13 Is this normal? Left vial is tap and right is tank water after a 40% water change. There is also ammonia reading in the tap water. Is it possible these are false readings from tainted vials? We get our tap from the County (South Florida). I had an ammonia spike after dosing Hydrogen Peroxide to treat BBA. If my tap is introducing ammonia and nitrite to an established (2 years) tank, is there a reason to worry? I cannot afford to buy distilled water just for water changes. I lost five fish after failing to do a water change last week following the bba treatment. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tlindsey Posted July 13 Share Posted July 13 On 7/13/2024 at 12:41 PM, Scaperoot said: is there a reason to worry? Yes definitely. I suggest buy 1gallon of distilled or deionized water and rinse out your test vials and the tops. Retest and post results. @Scaperoot 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sueet Posted July 13 Share Posted July 13 Chloramines are being used in many municipal water operations now, and that can give ammonia readings. Are you using any kind of water conditioner for water changes? I would recommend Seachem's Prime, but the api water conditioner works as well. Any time you treat for something like blackbeard algae, you are essentially filling your water with dead things that go on to rot - Even if they are tiny individual algae cells, that will also cause ammonia. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scaperoot Posted July 15 Author Share Posted July 15 I use Prime with each water change. I bought new vials and I'm still getting Nitrite and Ammonia readings in the tap water. Nitrates were about 10-20 ppm prior to a small water change. Fish do not appear to be in distress. I did a major clean up of dying leaves and cleared up the whole right side of the tank. I thought that an established tank could handle dying leaves, but if the water I'm introducing already has Ammonia and Nitrites, I don't know what else to do. Rough weekend after losing some of my oldest fish. This hobby has a way of humbling you when you think you've got it figured out. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sueet Posted July 15 Share Posted July 15 An established tank CAN handle dying leaves. The problem is likely just the bba treatment, if you have to do it again, just be aware that everything that you kill in there will rot until/unless you clean it out. Even if you can't see the rotting particles, if you KNOW you killed things, do extra water changes, and/or add extra beneficial bacteria to help clean up the mess while the prime keeps it from being toxic. (prime wears off after a couple days btw, if you have a lot of ammonia in there, and not much bacterial/plant presence to pick up what gets released, you have a problem still) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markp2483 Posted July 15 Share Posted July 15 Im a fan of running all tap water through a carbon filter like they do for koi. Just make sure it has kdf catalytic carbon filter and that should remove chloramine (ammonia and chlorine). I've found this to be better then water conditioners. I replace the filter once a year and all good. Down side it is slower than a python and cost more than any of water conditioner your likely to use in a year. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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