Ron1955
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Posts posted by Ron1955
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Thanks again. I spoke to someone else with experience building these and now I’m even more confused haha.
I’m not thinking I’ll heat the room via air conditioning and heat the water in the sump before it hits the tanks. That will also minimize risk of cooking my fish.
You were exactly right about no floor drain and why I am going to remove the sumps. I am currently doing over 75% water changes for the plecos once a week and it’s just not enough. I’ll run the new tanks on sponge filters but think with the amount of fresh water being added and the fact I’ll also get a large koi sump or similar they’ll be fine with that bioload.
I’m having trouble finding the right sump. Ideally it will be a large vertical sump to maximum the space I have. I’ve been told they exist but finding them in australia seems difficult
Talk soon 🙂
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On 11/28/2021 at 12:55 PM, OnlyGenusCaps said:
Hi @Ron1955. I love AWC systems! Anyone suffering from MTS should be aiming for installing them as they make care vastly easier! Sounds like you are an experienced keeper, so I'll spare you all the intro stuff.
Sounds like you are running from municipal water, and are therefor worried about Cl. For the volumes of water you are talking about I'd run a central C tank. I have one and I'm on a well. They work great and only need replacing every 2-5 years depending on size vs. usage. If you get weird looks from plumbers, just tell them you are improving the "taste" of the water. They are installed all the time for that.
Alright, chlorine is dealt with. You are changing into sumps, so the next thing is to think about where the water needs to go. I am assuming these are standard "below tank" sumps. If they are overhead, level, or some other arrangement, that will change the conversation. In a sump system, everything settles to the filter and the drain must go in the sump. That's there you need your overflow, or pump to drain, not the tank. I trust you can figure out how to get the water leaving the sump to a drain in your situation. There are a few ways of doing the drain hook-up within the sump though. Trade-offs of course, and it will depend on the type of sumps you have. Do you have multi-compartment sumps? Single compartment with permeable media separating them sections? More sump details will help in determining the type of drain setup you will want to use. Some calculations might be necessary as we move forward.
For input, I don't worry about heating the incoming water, nor do I need to treat it, i.e. use an RO system because I have made the active decision to only keep fish that can thrive in my well water conditions. That said, I understand why others make other decisions. I don't heat my incoming water because I don't do as large of changes as you do. May I ask why you want to change so much water on a daily basis?
Regardless, it is doable. Let's start with the simplest scenario, and say you are able to direct fill the tanks from the source water (post C tank treatment). In that case the easiest means I have found is to use irrigation timers and fittings for drip systems. I simply do not attache the drip emitters, and thus get fairly fast flow into the tanks. You can even put on drip emitter ball valves at the drip line size, or for the larger tubing to determine the flow to various different sized tanks. These do go directly into the tanks, though I like when I can have them add the water behind a matten filter or other place where there is mixing before it gets to the inhabitants. Modifications for pre-warming and RO use are pretty similar actually, but we can cover those if that is really what you need.
If this is a useful starting place, let me know and I'll be happy to continue on with you.
Thanks for such a great and detailed reply!
Excellent, I’ve got you on the chlorine. I’ve tried my fish on RO but unless I re-mineralize they all seem to die off.
My current sumps are multi compartment and underneath the tanks on foam sheets on a concrete slab. That’s one of the reasons I’m thinking of getting rid of the sumps as there is no angle for gravity to remove waste water unless I rip up the whole slab and cut up my driveway.I was thinking if I remove the sumps the water will leave the drilled tanks and travel via gravity to the sewer in large pipes.
I keep catfish which are messy and seem to be better with large water volumes being removed. What percentage would you recommend?
I’ve finally found a store in Australia that replied to me and may be able to help with parts. They recommended the following. What do you think? Thanks so much again
You may need a tempering valve : https://www.brisbaneplumbinganddrainage.com.au/plumber-blog/difference-between-tmv-and-tempering-valve/
We can supply a flush solenoid valve which can be programmed to go off at intervals - say 5 minutes on 24 hours off . We will also soon stock 24-hour timer flush valves.
https://pacificwater.com.au/product/automatic-flush-valve/
and control flow rate: flow meter
https://pacificwater.com.au/product/digiflow-8000t-flow-sensor/
combination of time and flow rate will give you the required volume
then in-line carbon filter for chlorine removal -
On 11/28/2021 at 12:11 PM, Patrick_G said:
Thanks Patrick. I’ve watched a few of the videos and hope I can source parts here in Australia because it’s been impossible
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Thank you Dwayne. That’s what I currently have but am just looking to make it all automatic. I have a rough idea in my head but just need some direction and advice products
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Thank you for the replies.
That filter is definitely one thing I’ll need. I’ll have fish at different temperature and yes would prefer them not to be connected as some fish are riskier to disease, some quite expensive/rare and some very messy compared to others.
I’ve had them in separate sumped symptoms to minimize this but the maintenance is too time consuming and difficult with my poor health so I’d like it all automatic -
Hi all,
I’m looking to set up automatic water changes and having a bit of trouble getting any information or anyone to help in Australia. I’ve spoken to ten plumbers who look at me like I’m talking another language so would love your feedback and direction please
I have 5 separate sumped systems I want to change to auto systems where the water will empty straight into the sewer.
The total volume is 6000 litres (1585 gallons) and I want to change 20-25% a day with fresh water.
I am thinking the following:
A temperature controller/mixer from the gas hot water system to eventually hit the tanks at 26 degrees Celsius (79 Fahrenheit). Some tanks like hotter so I’ll run heaters in them with Inkbirds.
The water will go through the temp controller/mixer to a filter to take out chlorine and any heavy metals then to a sump. I’m thinking a large stackable koi sump or similar so it won’t take up too much room & I can add more tanks.
The water will then go into the individual tanks via irrigation fittings with solenoids? The tanks are pre-drilled with 32mm fittings which I’ll connect a pipe from each system to meet up and hit the sewer via gravity.
Any advice/tips would be appreciated and if anyone knows someone that stocks this or even better can install in Australia please let me know
Thank you
Ron
Help with auto water changes please
in General Discussion
Posted
Thank you. I’m looking for something like a koi sump on the ground where the filtered water will pass through and heat the water prior to filling the tanks with the irrigation system. The way the room is set up and the fact I won’t be recycling the water I don’t need anything massive but still big enough to do the job without taking up too much room