meadeam
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Posts posted by meadeam
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I'm not going to complain because it has taken me this long to figure it out, but some time back I ordered a 10 pack of RCS from AquaHuna. The shrimp were very young and didn't look like much. These days I only ever see a few of them at a time, but some have grown into bright red cherry shrimp, and some (I have no idea how many, but at least a couple) turned out to be ghost shrimp. They are about half the size o the RCS, with translucent bodies. Does that happen often with shrimp? This is my first batch. They all appeared to be the same when I released them into the tank, I could never have discerned a difference.
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Selecting filtration based on water volume.
This one can be ok as long as you also take into account stocking level and species. Most intermediate aquarists (I consider myself an intermediate) learn this fairly early on.
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On 12/2/2021 at 3:20 PM, HH Morant said:
You can pour something into your aquarium that will "detoxify" ammonia.
Oh yeah - and nitrite.
This one is just a matter of accurately describing what is happening at a molecular level. For the intent and purpose of the average aquarist, it is close enough.
"Liquid C02" however is one I think borders on being intentionally misleading and bugs me more.
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On 12/1/2021 at 8:08 PM, Brandon p said:
I think they are blind. Cory’s tend to very well being blind. I got on once for free And I lived a full life and used the barbels to finding food. Corys have eye when hatched. I hope he does grow eyes but I’m not counting on this. Try to take a pic once a week and show us so we can see any progress
I bet you are correct. He does really well though, and seems to be getting just as much food as the others. I'll watch him a bit more and see if he is behaving differently. I don't think his health is effected though.
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On 12/1/2021 at 5:00 PM, Brandon p said:
Very common! Was the Cory eyes always like that or over time.
always, as far as I know. They were very small when I got them though. I just started noticing the eyes on this one recently. I think they are still not quite fully grown.
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Thanks for the info. The sand is not very deep, but right up against the glass is where it is the deepest. It makes sense there would be little to no 02 there. Perhaps I will pull some out, and I will definitely turn it over when I clean next.
The tank is stocked with black neons, white clouds, harlequin rasbora, coroydoras, red cherry shrimp, and mystery snails. It is fairly heavily planted, with the foreground (where the black stuff is) being the least planted area.
I've been thinking about adding a slightly more coarse sand, but the cories love to sift through the finer stuff.
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Is the from anaerobes, some kind of fungus, or algae? The sand is about 1 1/2 - 2" deep in the foreground. Moving back from the glass the sand is capping aquasoil in the planted areas.
I thought I would simply aerate that section of sand, but decided to check if anybody has different opinions before I mix it up.
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Very strange indeed. I have no idea, but I'll be interested if anyone else does. I have black neon tetras, white clouds, and harlequin rasbora. A school each all living in perfect harmony in a 29. They shoal in a big bunch, and auto-sort themselves into schools when someone is around the tank.
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Just a neat photo of one of my Green Cories sifting. Checkout his eye... both are like that. My other cory's eyes are not that small.
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I'm sorry to read this. Very unfortunate, and a risk for those of us who live in colder parts of the world and keep these tropical creatures. I live in KY, USA where it doesn't get terribly cold in the winter (not like Northern Wisconsin where I was born) but far too cold for tropical fish. My furnace took a vacation last week on the coldest night of the year so far. I couldn't get it serviced until the following afternoon. I still had electricity, so the tank heaters were working. But my house got down to the low 50s before I realized the furnace had gone out. The heaters were struggling to keep up, so I tossed a blanket over each tank. It reminded me how perilous it would be to lose electricity in the wintertime, and I may need to come up with a disaster plan that would buy the fish a few days at least.
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I'm by no means an expert having only been running canister filters for several months, but I really like the Oase Filtosmart 200 Thermo for mid-size tanks. It does a great job, has been easy to service (hoses don't drain on the floor when you disconnect them) and I really like the internal heater for minimizing the amount of gear in the tank. I use bagged Seachem Matrix in the heater compartment rather than the loose bio rings it came with, and I cut down one of the sponges to make room for more bagged Matrix as well as carbon, purigen, or whatever else I choose to use at any given time. Recenetly I added a bag of Phosguard to deal with a diatom issue. The filter is virtually silent in the cabinet. I wish they shipped it with longer hoses for more placement options, and I think the intake and return pipes could be more attractive. Other than that, not a single issue so far. It isn't cheap, but not the most expensive filter either.
I think a couple sponge filters could do the same job of biological filtration, but I like the options and extra mechanical filtration it offers. Were I running several thanks, I wouldn't have this filter on each one. In that case I would be using sponges.
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On 11/30/2021 at 9:48 AM, Mmiller2001 said:
Placement looks good to me.
Thanks, will roll with it for now. I started running airstones in my other tanks, and on my 29 I decided as long as I was running air I may as well put it in a nano sponge filter. They're easy to hide, provide a little more movement down low in the tank, and then I've got it ready to go whenever needed. I'll probably put one in this tank as well.
It's a different topic, but this may be my last tank with a canister filter. I'd like to switch to a centralized air driven setup, but my tanks are in multiple rooms. I may still try it at some point, and move the canisters to the 6ft tank I hope to have at some point. I'm constantly changing plans though.
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On 11/29/2021 at 7:08 PM, Streetwise said:
I think that you will have to make a photographic choice, rather than a functional choice. I prefer gear on the back wall of a bow, with some degree of symmetry.
The asymmetry does bother me a little, but less so than it would if the pipes weren't glass. I know I'll have to keep them clean.
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I love the look of a rimless planted tank with glass lily pipes. I've never used them because I don't want to lose a ton of water to evaporation and so I run glass lids on my rimmed tanks. I just bought a 36 bowfront, which is rimless. It came with a black plastic lid I really don't like, not least of all because I want to run a Fluval Aquasky as I do on my other tanks, or a Plant 3.0. So I am considering going lidless. I had these pipes from an abandoned attempt on another tank.
This seems to be good placement, or would you suggest a different arrangement. Will I be able to have surface/floating plants? Thanks in advance for your experience
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On 11/29/2021 at 12:39 PM, Taco Playz said:
In my opinion 3.5 gallons are the bare minimum but 5.5 is a good size for bettas.
I really like the footprint and aspect ratio of those 3 and 3.5 gallon long tanks. I'm not going to buy one, but if I had one already, I think that would work. I like the extra couple gallons of volume.
On 11/29/2021 at 12:40 PM, Keeg said:5.5 is a suitable tank size for bettas. But bettas are a nice hardy fish, so if you wanted to, you could set it up in a 10g and decide if you want to keep nano fish. You should have no problem moving them out of the 10 into the 5.5.
This may be the way. It just occured to me that I have a clown pleco in the 10 right now (I forget about him because he spends 95% of his time inside a hollow piece fo driftwood) so after I move the mollies into their new tank, the pleco could stay put and get a betta tankmate.
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I've never had a betta. I plan to get one soon though, and I will have a spare 5.5 and 10 to choose from. I'd like to use the 5.5 for my future betta and save the 10 for another few nano fish. I know people keep bettas in ridiculously small tanks, but 5.5 should be adequate, shouldn't it? Or would I be remiss in not opting for the 10 since it is available?
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I am using play sand and finding it pretty easy to clean and maintain. If an area starts looking less than great (I have Fluval Stratum under sand in the planted areas) I vacuum out a bunch of sand, and use a funnel and hose to replace it with clean dry sand. That keeps the Stratum covered, as it tries to work itself to the surface. In the unplanted foreground is just sand, so it is much easier to mainain. My cories love the play sand, and I love the little nose trails they leave all over it.
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Anybody know why there is a pH difference between the API test kit and Coop test strips? The strips are consistently reading ~6.4 at my tap, while the API kit reads at least 7.0 at my tap. I've used the API kit exclusively until recently, but have been switching to the strips. I don't need them to agree 100%, but I'd like to be aware of when and why they differ
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This tank is happy and healthy as far as I know. I don't have any reason to believe anything is terribly wrong, but the hardness, buffer, and pH numbers kind of surprised me. pH especially; the API kit shows something much closer to neutral (>=6.8) in the tank, and the same out of the tap. Do you see anything concerning here?
It is hard to see in the photos, but the tank is showing ~10ppm NO3.
The water is around a week oldIt has been 1 week since the most recent water change. Also hard to see is there is 0 chlorine in the tank, and .8ppm out of the tap. Ammonia is 0 out of the tap and in the tank.Current Inhabitants of this tank are cories, tetra, rasbora, mysteries, and red cherry shrimp. I'd say it is fairly heavily planted, but most of the plants are not very big yet. The numbers in the tank and out of the tap are virtually the same, aside from the lack of chlorine in the tank and the expected presence of NO3.
Are there any fish I should avoid with this water, or changes I would have to make to keep a particular fish (angels, dwarf cichlids for example) healthy?
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Thanks, I went ahead and bought a 36. I think it will work well in the corner I have planned for it.
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I was pleased to learn that glass lids can be found for them as I much prefer that type of lid to the plastic hood I've seen bowfronts come with at the big pet stores. I'm hooked on fluval lights as well, so I'd definitely replace the hood if not right away.
Looks like I'd need to use rim clips, as the bow front I am considering is rimless and I do not want to go without a lid. Something to consider, but maybe not a deal breaker. I'll have to figure out if it will work.
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Have you had, or do you have one? Any issues or disadvantages? I haven't been into how they look but I have a space that would suit one quite well in terms of footprint and viewing angles.
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On 11/23/2021 at 12:19 PM, KaitieG said:
I would say yes to both--Yes, it will overpopulate and Yes it will eventually self regulate. I've had 3 tanks--they regulate significantly higher than I would normally stock them, but they do eventually sort of level off without having mass die offs or disease or anything like that.
As far as angelfish, I added those to my large mostly livebearer tank and I now have NO population growth. So, I haven't really found a fish that eats lots but not all of the fry and keeps the population in check without totally eliminating fry survival. I just started another "replacement" tank where I can raise replacement fry and then add them into the angel community tank when they're big enough to not get eaten (aka full grown).
Good to know. I won't be able to add multiple angels, maybe I could do one.
I could get some juveniles who would fit in a 40b, and then move them into the bigger tank that I don't yet have but know that I want. Or I could get a 65.. same footprint with more height. this tank keeps getting bigger.
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I think I am going to limit it to a 20L. I could probably do a 33L, but I'd always be thinking about it. Better to have peace of mind than a larger tank.
Clear Red Cherry Shrimp
in General Discussion
Posted
will do. The difference between the 2 types is stark and unmistakable. I may be wrong about the smaller, translucent ones being ghost shrimp, that was just a guess. But they are definitely different in size, shape, and transparency.