Jeremy B
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Posts posted by Jeremy B
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Yeah I've had nitrates. The tanks been up for 4-6 months, was an early covid project. I used cycled media from another tank to jump start this one, and I have a good bit of plants. I'm struggling to keep them fed, mostly stem plants and water lettuce. Thanks for the idea.
10 minutes ago, fatblonde said:Hello!
I see you have 0 nitrates. Did you have any nitrates when cycling your tank?
Is it possible you've had an ammonia/ nitrite spike?
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1 minute ago, Randy said:
Getting work done and catching up on yesterday's stream.
Anyone else watch the livestreams at work?
Man I wish I could watch at work, I am forced to just listen in with my bluetooth ear protection... everyone thinks I'm big on safety. Nah, I just like my fish videos.🤣
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Any ideas? still getting random deaths, this is the only tank having issues.
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On 9/7/2020 at 3:51 PM, Dean’s Fishroom said:
Back from a short vacation. . .
My Fry System is totally empty..... what to do?
Love this setup so much I gotta copy it! I finally found an older 55 gallon with no center brace and am about to order some bins to do what you do, are these the right ones?
https://www.containerstore.com/s/kitchen/pantry-organizers/idesign-linus-open-cabinet-organizers/12d?productId=10027637 -
Went to a outdoor club sale... got to sell a bunch of stuff and buy a bunch of fish!
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I do and have used metal racks like the gladiator units. I really like the 2ft wide pallet racks if you can find them for 20Hs, and work for 10s with wasted space in the back. The benefit with the pallet racks is you can get different width shelving to fit your needs. The shelves I use have a rating of 2500lb per shelf, so theres no sag with the tanks installed
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Cory has a video on using cinder blocks and 2x4s to DIY a shelf which I've used in the past, Teds fishroom also has a video on DIY shelving out of 2x4s which I am now using. I have seen a few youtubers use the gladiator racks from homedepot but I'm not a fan of them for fish tanks, love them for random garage and house storage.
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2 hours ago, RummyKnows said:
I have a 120 gallon tank (4ft x 2ft x 2ft) with dual overflows. I want to set up a planted tank and I'm looking for ideas. I have two 48" Finnex Stingray 2 lights. I'm not sure if I want to set up a sump (a first for me) or use the canister filters I already have. I need to select substrate, plants, and fish.
I'm returning to the hobby after a 10 year break. Before that, I kept fish for 15 years and I'm looking forward to getting a tank started again.
What I'd like to do is get a large school of rummynose tetras (with other "supporting cast" fish) and low maintenance plants and maybe a "centerpiece" fish. Possible ideas for other tankmates: kuhli loaches, cory cats, ottos, hillstream loaches, inverts. As far as substrate or plants, I'm suffering from analysis paralysis.
I would love to hear ideas/suggestions/warnings for my proposed setup.
I would do a sump, so many options for media and its so easy to clean/change stuff out. you can drill the sump for auto water change as well. Just make sure you get it squared away so in a power outage you don't overflow the sump.
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3 hours ago, Its Hutch said:
A couple of sponge filters, usb air pumps, easy green and root tabs, med trio and a few more things.
I hit my goal of 1 year no smoking on Sept 9th and this is my reward.
Dude congrats on quitting smoking! Treat yo self! (yeah I'm a parks and rec fan 🤣)
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5 minutes ago, Tara.C. said:
I purchased some otocinclus about a week ago. They're doing great so far. But they've already gone through the algae and biofilm in my tank. I've tried giving them Hikari algae wafers and Repashy soilent green. I haven't seen them eat either in the last couple of days, but they're swimming around the tank and acting content. Is there a way to entice them with food? Do they eat at night, and maybe I'm just not seeing them feed? Is there a better food I should be offering? I know they're prone to starvation, and j wouldn't say these guys have particularly round bellies, so I'm a bit concerned.
What I've started to do is put some rocks into a container filled with water and giving it lots of light to encourage the growth of algae and plan to put these rocks into the aquarium one at a time. I'll just keep swapping as needed to help feed. I wish I could take credit but I read it somewhere here on these forums.
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Maybe white cloud mountain minnows?
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1 hour ago, kryptonian said:
Awesome! PVAS is close by. will check it out. Thanks!
Hope to see you October 4th for the big tailgate sale! Lots of cool fish have been listed for sale already.
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Good to have you in the hobby! If you are close to NOVA check out Potomac Valley Aquarium Society, Greater Washington Aquatic Plant Association and Capital Cichlid Association, hopefully see you at a club meeting one day! (Also from MD)
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I stumbled across the video with Cory talking about feeding first bites to a filter feeder "3 best beginner shrimp for freshwater aquariums [live stream]" was the video at 46 minutes
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1 hour ago, TheDukeAnumber1 said:
Lest we forget 😜
So I was considering ordering these up, how are you liking them?
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How are you all cleaning your nets to keep from transferring diseases from tank to tank? I use this on my SS planting/water change tools as well. First I let my nets completely air dry and then I am using a mixing tub from lowes/homedepot so I can completely submerge my nets. I add ~3 teaspoons of Potassium Permanganate (I just want the water to turn a dark purple) and let sit for ~20 minutes, remove and let completely dry again. I picked this up from a few people in my local aquarium club, join your local club! Of course read up on the dangers of Potassium Permanganate before you handle it. Do not use dechlorinator with this as it will neutralize the Potassium Permanganate quickly.
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24 minutes ago, MickS77 said:
I haven't really look into it but I've had an idea for one. I thought of using a threaded airline connection threaded into a magnet. Two magnets together may be airtight. I couldn't find a suitable magnet with 1/4NPT threads and a through hole. Its possible it could be done by drilling and tapping a suitable magnet found at a store.
I like this idea, I wonder if you could just glue or epoxy the magnets?
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3 minutes ago, Paul said:
@Jeremy B just to confirm you did post this correct? The Ultraviolet Lamp emits a germicidal ray which alters or disrupts the DNA or RNA of single celled organ-isms such as algae, bacteria and protozoa. By properly implementing an Aqua Ultraviolet System in-line, these organisms can be eradicated effectivelywithout any harmful residuals.
Sounds to me they just can't reproduce and live out their lives till their death. Also, as pointed out this is a place who SELL UV's, not a paper with sources.
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http://aquaticcommons.org/16352/1/BJFR1.1_001.pdf
Page 6 has a graph demonstrating the UV setup did not eliminate all, with a further reduction of using chlorine and UV. unfortunately the paper is more about usage of chlorine and uv combined but even still there wasn't a full reduction of bacteria
http://www.animalplanet.com/search/algae/
The UV sterilizer utilizes a germicidal fluorescent lamp that produces light at a wavelength of approximately 254 nanometers (2537 Angstroms). The water with the bacteria/algae passes over the bulb (or around the bulb if a quartz sleeve is used) and is irradiated with this wavelength. As the light penetrates the bacteria/algae, it mutates the DNA (genetic material), preventing growth/multiplication of the organism.
These guys sell UV, which I wouldn't hold much weight in due to the sales aspect but they agree:
The Ultraviolet Lamp emits a germicidal ray which alters or disrupts the DNA or RNA of single celled organ-isms such as algae, bacteria and protozoa. By properly implementing an Aqua Ultraviolet System in-line, these organisms can be eradicated effectively without any harmful residuals.
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1 minute ago, Paul said:
Thanks for this but you couldn’t find anything more current? This study may have been relevant in the early 80’s but there’s 40 years separating this study from current tech. Think of it as comparing a car from the 80’s and a current model. Newer cars are more powerful and efficient than anything that could of been produced in the 80’s
So can you find me an article with sources that states the opposite? A legit paper not an aquarium blog.
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I've had great luck with frogbit, duckweed, salvinia, water lettuce and so far so well with Asian water grass but I've only had it a week or two. Does seem to be growing well. No problems with surface agitation here but I just use sponge filters with fine bubbles.
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8 minutes ago, Paul said:
@Jeremy B You're talking apple and oranges here. Both of these articles are about the use of UV in other applications. Our aquariums are neither sewage treatment plants (the EPA article) or operating rooms (CDC article). Although the CDC article did say this "Bacteria and viruses are more easily killed by UV light than are bacterial spores". The point of my comments are that I did not find a single source that said the aquarium UV sterilization lights don't do what the manufacturers said they do which is kill algae and pathogens of fish that are in the water column. How the UV sterilizer produces that result is irrelevant to most hobbyists. If you can find an article on aquarium UV sterilizers that say otherwise please share it with us.
https://www.int-res.com/articles/meps/6/m006p295.pdf
Spotte (1979) reviewed the use of UV radiation in aquatic animal culture. Some pathogens always sur- vive, despite kill rates that sometimes approach 100 % at the contact site. Animals maintained in closed sys- tems thus are subject to possible reinfection from water returning from the sterilizer, the degree of reinfection depending on the virulence and concentration of the pathogen and the immune status of the host. Bullock and Stuckey (1977) studied the effect of UV radiation on bacterial counts of salmonid hatchery water. In some instances, bacteria at the contact site were reduced 99.99 %, but the authors cautioned against placing undue emphasis on the results, because the number of bacteria necessary to transmit disease is difficult to predict. They pointed out that, in their experiments, a 99.99 % kill of a pathogen at a cell density of 104 ml-' would leave only 1.0 ml-'. They concluded that even this low concentration might be adequate to transmit disease during intensive culture if the pathogen is virulent, considering the growth potential of bacteria. -
3 hours ago, Andy's Fish Den said:
The other thing I can think of is with the air going through felt pads, possibly the air is a little "dirty" and the felt is trapping the dirt, dust etc and clogging. I figured that was why they sent extras when you get them, to change them out when or if they clogged up.
I mean I really hope that's not the case, I have regular air stones that I couldn't even tell you how old they are... fine bubble patterns too. That to me wouldn't be much of a never clog air stone if I'm cleaning them due to dust every 3 weeks. Now this has only happened once and I'm just hoping its something silly that happened and not dust/calcium buildup. I have been adding drops to my loop so I was thinking late last night maybe it was PVC dust, but I've been drilling and installing those with the pump on to hopefully not have that happen at all. I think I have 14 of these on tanks now and only one has given me an issue so hopefully just a fluke.
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https://www3.epa.gov/npdes/pubs/uv.pdf
So listed here on the first page it states its just for inactivation
https://www.cdc.gov/infectioncontrol/guidelines/disinfection/disinfection-methods/miscellaneous.html
The CDC also only lists UV for disinfection, and not sterilization.
Help random deaths
in Diseases
Posted · Edited by Jeremy B
Still at zero, I even went out and bought test strips today just to be sure I wasn't messing up the liquid tests. I've had an air stone going since I started the tank. Thanks