Hemali
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Posts posted by Hemali
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On 3/12/2021 at 2:51 PM, Colu said:Higher temperatures will increase his metabolism if he doesn't eat frozen the try hikari Betta bio gold
14 hours ago, Hobbit said:Has he eaten at all since you got him? When I got my betta, it took him several days to figure out that what I was giving him was food. I suspect he had eaten one thing for most of his life and it just took him a bit of time to get the taste of the new stuff.
I wouldn’t worry too much. Cory said recently in a live stream that (healthy) fish can survive two months without food, so even though your little guy is sick, he can still probably go two weeks easy. He may have a bit of an upset tummy from the treatment as well.
I snuck back into the room he's in the other day to see him picking the food off the bottom of the tank. Also, saw him playing in the bubbler yesterday. By this morning all the food was gone and he was eating the bug bits I gave him today. I'll have some freshly hatched brine shrimp for him ^_^
Thank you for your help and advice everyone! 😄
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He's doing way way better! All the spots are gone. Hes swimming around and active.
He's interested in food, but he keeps spitting it out. I've tried given him bug bits, hikari fancy guppy micropellets, bloodworms (even cut into peices), and garlic soaked frozen brine shrimp. Im hatching out some brine shrimp. Maybe he'll like that. 😞
It's been 1.5 days since he's been back on his feet. . .fins. Does he just need time. The bacterial/fungal treatment is done but I still have the tank at about 84.5 incase it was ich. Wont this temp boost his metabolism and make him super hungry? -
I just started treatment with api fungus cure and api fin and body cure (to treat the fin rot) and cracked the temp up to 85-86 incase its ich. After the fin rot treatments over in 4 days. Ill be starting treatment with ichx if he still has spots. The regimen for the api and ichx meds are different so I can't use at the same time. Also, can't find online if api and ich x are compatible. Oh, also added an almond leave and a resting platform right under the water surface for good measure. Api's website says all their products can be used in conjunction. He's already more lively. I'll let you all know my results ^_^
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54 minutes ago, Colu said:
It looks like ich to me I would treat with ich x
His fins have holes that look kind of like fin rot. Could he have both or is this a fungal thing?
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I got this guy 5 days ago and he's developed white spots on one eye and faint white spots on his tail fin, and on the body. Fins have holes in it too. Is this ich, fungus, bacterial, columnaris? I have api fungal cure, api general cure, api furan 2, ich x, api fin and body, and aquarium salt.
He hasn't eaten today. He just goes up gulps air then sits back down. It's a new tank, I put media from a established tank in the filter. I test ammonia daily. I think I may have hurt him when trying to net him about two days ago. Could I have caused this? 😞
1st photo when I got him
2nd 3rd photo today
4th the set up5th hole in fins
Ammonia 0
nitrites0
nitrates5
Ph 7.8
Temp 77-78
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2 hours ago, Socqua said:
Was this your first time adding fertilizer, or have you been doing that for months or longer? Fertilizing with easy green will definitely increase nitrates as it has Nitrogen in it, unless your plants consume it all. If anything you could fertilize with something with low Nitrogen to see if that helps your plants consume the nitrates while still growing. And then of course water changes as normal.
It was my first time in that tank. I wasn't sure if easy green has enough to raise the nitrates significantly or if its low enough to barely affect the test. Ill look into nitrogen free fertalizers.
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3 hours ago, FriendlyLoach said:
Yes, I would recommend testing your tap water. Also you could add pothos to the tank to help with nitrates. Love the tank!
Ive tried to add pathos before but the stem just rotted before it rooted. I think I did it wrong 😅
Any suggestions?
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1 hour ago, Fish Folk said:
Hi @Hemali -- inferring that your question here is: why are these Nitrate readings changed, since not that much seems to have altered in the stable aquarium?
This can be difficult to diagnose. My first step is always to _retest_ my Nitrates. Not sure exactly what water test you use. Let's assume it's API Freshwater Master Test Kit. Make sure that you're consistent in how well you shake the Nitrate bottles. That second bottle reagent contains crystals that must get properly broken up to provide an accurate reading. So, I shake bottles very well. Then shake the test tube very well. Then wait 5 mins before taking a reading. Always shake briefly before reading, as the color may tend to concentrate in the vial rather than distributing throughout. Be sure you're in excellent lighting with white backdrop, etc.
Assuming that the test is consistent, and all is being done properly . . . now what could the cause be? Nitrate is the landing stage for the nitrogen cycle so perhaps (1) a bacterial colony has somehow "boomed." (2) It's possible that there's a bit more ammonia in your source water, that's getting cranked through the nitrogen cycle, leading to increased nitrate. (3) Maybe some of your plants have decided to "take a vacation." Sometimes trimming . . . sometimes algae inhibiting photosynthesis . . . maybe a change in aeration is altering CO2 absorption during daylight. (4) Perhaps a fish or two died, is decomposing, and leading to increased Ammonia > Nitrate buildup.
(Again, assuming that testing is not the issue) It is helpful to think broadly: what has changed? Lighting? Heat? Aeration? Source water chemistry? Flora? Fauna? Feeding?
35 minutes ago, Kirsten said:You may also want to check your tap water. I sometimes get non-zero nitrate readings right out of the tap. Gorgeous tank, btw!
Thank you for responding! Using a new api master test kit. I vigorously shake the second nitrate bottle for over a minute. Then add 10 drops of bottle one, shake vile a little to mix, add 10 drops bottle 2, then shake vial vigorously for 1min, then let sit for 5 mins. After 5 mins I read it while placed against the white part of the test result paper with a flash light right on it.
I keep count of my fish to prevent that and they're all accounted for (Easily done during feeding time).
Literally I can't think of anything I've changed. I added a new bubbler that adds more bubbles and smaller bubbles, may have changed the lighting. I get algae only on the top leaves of the ludwigia so I assumed the lighting was too strong. Turned down the intensity of light in return increased dim lighting time. I have a current brand light that I can add a fully adjustable sunrise sunset cycle.
I didnt add fertalizer until 5 days ago. I added a dose of easy green 5 days ago and the nitrates have gone up from 30 to 40 if anything. Added more today thinking it maybe that there still isn't enough other nutrients for the plants to fully start take up nitrates and growing.
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Since set up, my nitrates for my 55 stayed around 5-10ppm (about 6 months now) but recently they went from 5ppm to 40ppm in a matter of a 2 weeks. I have a load of fast growing stem plants (ludwigia repens, anacharis) and floating plants (salvinia and water lettuce) to help with nitrates. I dont think the ludwigia has been growing as quick and they have algae growing on them now after the last small trimming. (All trimming were replanted in the same tank about 1.5 weeks ago)0 ammonia 0 nitrites ph 7.8, fluval fx4 filter, airstone, prefilter sponge20-22 juvenile corydoras, 16 juvenile rummynose tetras, 6 chili rasboras, 8 Amano shrimp, 8 ottoceiclus.
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1 hour ago, Fish Folk said:
Sounds like you've got your basics covered. We run sponge filters, so bacteria colony is loaded in the aquarium already.
Irene (Girl Talks Fish / A Gamer's Wife) made a video about surviving a power outage in cold weather that is helpful:
I completely forgot to mention I have a sponge prefilter on my intake. 😅
Also, thank you for the video!
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How do I keep the bacteria alive in my fluval fx4 canister filter during a power outage? I have a battery powered bubbler I can split between the filter and 55gal tank.
The power can go out for 30mins to (rarely) 12hrs. Also, will cooler temperatures around 47 kill the filter?
I have those emergency blankets for the Aquarium and a blanket I was going to put over the tank. Will that keep the tank temp high enough.
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I have read the praziquantel dissipates after 72hrs but the oxybispropanol takes 5-7 days. My question is: After adding prazipro, do I simply do a second dose after 5-7 days or do I do a massive water change first?
After the second dose, do I do a water change? Can I just let it dissipate? Currently, I am not running carbon in my fx4.
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I've recieved this special lady in this condition about 2.5 weeks. Does she just have a bent spine? She eats fine and is super active. Also is she bloated or is she egg heavy?
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Its working!! Thank you for the advice everyone! ^_^
Ottoceiclus, young and old corydoras, rummy nose tetras, very younge chili rasboras, Amano shrimp, bladder snails, and plants all look like their doing great with the medication!
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Should increase the temp in the tank? Its at 76
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I did it! First round of api general cure and a bit of stress coat (couldn't fine ich-x). Now to keep a close eye on my little dudes and make sure their little dudes go away. 👀
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I found three other post on forums where only corys seemed to be getting these little things. Two people treated with api general cure for flukes and one person with the api fungus cure thinking its fungus. All worked. Im thinking of starting with api general cure amd ich-x as recommend. Hopefully a store near me has these things so I can get started soon.
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4 hours ago, Cory said:
I don't have nearly the experience with API fungus cure. I recommend using the general cure and Ich X instead. We put every corydoras we come into contact with through this treatment. As always if a fish has problem, using meds can kill them, but not treating them also kills them.
I have some really young Chili rasboraso and corys in the display tank. Would you recommend treating young fish with the trio of meds (ich-x, api general cure, and e m erythromycin)?
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3 hours ago, Hobbit said:
I’ve used Ich X at full strength with my pygmy cories, otos, and loaches and they were all totally fine. It contains malachite green at 0.1% and the dose is 5 ml per 10 gallons.
Just because the others don’t have the parasite (yet) doesn’t mean they won’t get it. Though some fish are going to be more susceptible to different parasites depending on the type of parasite and the health of the fish.
I would go ahead and use the malachite green. What dose does it recommend and what’s the concentration?
It recommends one teaspoons per 10 gallons. So 5.5 tsp for my 55. I have a 5 gallon quarantine tank with a couple plastic plants, bare bottom, and cycled. Do you think I could treat 15 corys then the other 15? Making sure they don't come in contact with eachother till after the treatment. This stuff apparently will dye things green in my display tank.
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9 hours ago, Cory said:
i'm not sure what it is, in one of the pictures it looks like 3 things are hanging off it's tail, maybe parasite?
The thing is, only half the corys, 15, have a little of it. The Rummy nose tetras, chili rasboras, and otocinclus are completely fine. The corys are also acting completely fine, besides occasionally flashing. Do you know if corydoras can be safely treated with api general cure and api fungus cure? Tried looking online with mixed answers. I have malachite green, but it says its not safe for scaleless catfish. Does that include corydoras which have armored scales? I also just added a ton of tannins into the water. Sorry these are my first sick fish and I'm worried sick. 😔
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Hi,
I have 30 corydoras, 16 rummy nose tetras, 8 otocinclus, 9 very young Chili rasboras, and a few Amano shrimp in my 55gal. Just got 15 corys about 4 days ago and the other 15 corys 2 weeks ago.
Water parameters: 0:0:10-15, ph: 7.4 temp: set at 76 drops to 72.5 at night because of environmental temperature.
I just noticed a few corydoras have these white little string clusters on their fins. Its not on their body and isn't little whit spots like ich. Any idea what it is? About 10 have a little. Only the corys have this stuff and they're acting and eating fine.
Also, my corys sometimes flash after sifting the really fine sand through their gills, only my corydoras are flashing. Is that normal for fine sand tanks and corys?
I'm thinking its a fungal thing caused by a combination of not having gravel vacuumed the sand at all and stress from being new to the tank.
Im thinking of gravel vacuuming then doing a 30% water change and seeing how this go. If it doesn't go away, Im thinking of quarantining them and treating with api fungus cure. My worry with medicating is that the medication will be too strong for the younger little corys and I only have a 5.5gal quarantine tank.
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I am using tap but this apartment has really old piping I think. When I compared the parameters of warm water from the tap to cold water they were really different. For example the warm water had really really high ph. Is this normal?
Ive heard old pipes can leach more into the water when its hot water. Our water also comes out brown for the first bit (I think its rust or something. It stains the tube where it drips from
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This may be a dumb question, but does the wattage matter if I'm just getting the heater to heat the bucket of water to do water changes? I'm asking because I've read high wattage heaters get hot quick and am worried it might shatter being in such cold water with a quick change in temp when it heats up. 😅
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Just got a whole bunch of different fast growing stem plants and floating plants! Also, 8 otocinclus.
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Betta has white spots on one eye
in Diseases
Posted
I think I know what he had its call epistylis. It's a bacterial infection that can commonly effect the eye and cause fin erosion ( the holes he had in his fin). The spots look a little different from ich in which they're more fungal looking. It's caused from poor water quality and he was sick when I got him from petco. Thought I'd share incase anyone else ever comes across this issue. ^_^
https://seriouslyfishy.club/epistylis-fish-illness/