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Neha

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Posts posted by Neha

  1. On 10/11/2023 at 2:43 PM, Zeaqua said:

    At first, I tried to keep them in a Specimen Container with an airstone as I saw in GirlTalksFish's video, and the fry did well for a bit, but after some time the water quality degraded and they didn't make it. I tried that method again, but I made sure to keep up with water changes. I did them hourly (I was able to do them so often as I'm in high school and it was summer at the time) and did them right before feedings to remove any leftover food. This went well until I decided to upgrade them to a fluval breeder box when they escaped, presumably into the outflow to the rest of the tank. For my most recent few, I've just left the eggs in their tank with their parents. Once they hatched, I would start feeding the tank with fry foods, and they just took off from there. In your case, the breeding box should work well, just as long as you cover the outflow with a bit of sponge so they can't escape. 

    I had first thought of doing a specimen container but decided to go with the fluval breeder box. I've covered the outflow with sponge but I'll put some polyfilter as well since they are sooo tiny! Thanks a lot for all the information! I really appreciate it!

  2. On 10/11/2023 at 12:49 PM, Zeaqua said:

    Even if you aren't able to raise them successfully on the first try, don't give up! I lost my first 2 batches of fry and was super disappointed in myself and almost stopped trying to breed them, but now I have a huge colony!

    Oh wow! I feel like this is my only chance to raise them for at least some foreseeable future (I'll be moving), I do hope they survive! I have 8 in a 1 gallon fluval breeding box and I'm changing water twice a day and cleaning the bottom once a day. What did you do different from your first two tries?

  3. On 10/11/2023 at 12:12 AM, Zeaqua said:

    For the most part, mine just spawn on their own. I think that cool water changes before a storm may help a bit, but I don’t think they are too important for pygmies. What I do think is pretty important is keeping them well fed. Foods that are higher in protein help females to produce more eggs, and they help fry to grow more quickly. I usually like to feed the Nano pellets I mentioned earlier, as well as frozen or live Daphnia or BBS. Mine have spawned about once every 3-5 weeks, with the biggest spawn having about 100 eggs. Also, you can try the shrimpee pellets with your cories, but mine won’t touch them. If yours don’t either, another pretty good fry food that may be able to substitute powders like first bites is any decent flake food. As long as you take time to crumble it up for them, they’ll probably eat it. Lastly, the most important thing about artificially raising cories is to do plenty of little water changes. Water quality is super important to fry, so try to keep it as good as you can! Sorry about the essay, but hope this helps!

    This is great info! Thanks so much! Let's see if I can raise my first set of fry successfully!

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  4. On 10/10/2023 at 7:51 PM, Zeaqua said:

    Around June I had one of my first successful Pygmy spawns. I was panicking on what to feed them, as I had never raised fry before, but had been attempting to breed these lil guys for months. It turns out that they’ll just eat what their parents eat, just smaller. I found that the best food for them in the early stages are all the microfauna in the sand. I did read that you have a large shrimp colony with your pygmies, so that may not work out, but the second best foods for them are any finely crushed up flake or pellet. I’ve used xtreme nano pellets, as they have a ton of protein and can very easily be crushed up between your fingers. After a couple weeks, try to get some on BBS. Mine are already showing adult colors, so I know you can do it! Good luck with your endeavors!

    Thanks so much! I do have Xtreme shrimpee pellets, I'll try those for the ones in my main tank. I've started feeding the tank twice a day, maybe some in the main tank will survive. The ones in my breeding box are now about 1-2 days old. I think the oldest one just had its first meal, I put in some hikari first bites. Before this no one had wanted to eat, maybe others will eat through the night too!

    If you don't mind me asking, how did you get your pygmys to spawn? Mine spawned about the same time last year, maybe it's the rainy season that does it for mine. I would love to get them to spawn more! Thanks again!

    • Like 1
  5. On 10/9/2023 at 10:46 AM, TOtrees said:

    Hikari First Fites is pretty widely available. Others like Sera micron, they seem to be targeting North American retail more lately  

    I’m a huge fan of this, if you can get it. https://aquariumdirect.ca/en/aaa/986-premium-larval-diet-.html. In fact I love all the AAA foods that I’ve tried. 

    I find that a very very little goes a long way. Cory fry will get by on little to no extra food, unless they’re in a very sterile tank. They’ll reach a size where they can eat first frozen bbs, then live pretty quick (the frozen seems slightly smaller than live, to me), under almost any conditions, unless they are depredated. Also, obviously bad or unclean water is a no-go. In my set up, I see the greatest larval/fry deaths when organic debris accumulates in my hang on fry box. So I clean often, and feed often. 

    Thanks much for your response! I actually have them in a Tupperware currently because all my breeding boxes seemed too large for them. I'm planning on moving them to my 1 gallon breeder box once all the eggs hatch (I have 8 rn). So there's no extra food for the fry. I actually did not have a lot of success with them in my main tank because I have a large shrimp population. Only one fry from the last spawn survived. 

    I think I'll find hikari first bites and sera micron in my local fish store. In the meantime I'll keep their container clean. I can still see the egg from which they hatched, I assume they will eat that?

  6. I have about half a day old fry and I have live bbs, but I have read a few places that pygmy fry are too tiny to eat bbs. Are there any other recommendations, not live, since I can't do any other live food. Or do you think I'd better stick with live bbs?

  7. On 1/9/2023 at 9:32 PM, Cinnebuns said:

    I am very much in love with the fluval hang on breeder boxes. They work with an air pump. They basically extend your tank. It's also less chances of stuff going wrong like fry slipping through the slits and such.

    Just ordered one, thanks!

    • Like 1
  8. On 1/9/2023 at 9:21 PM, Cinnebuns said:

    My guess is the cory fry are being out competed by the shrimp. Adults don't necessarily compete with shrimp but the fry do. Especially pygmy who are extra tiny. For best success you may need to move the fry to another tank. The funny part is that cherry shrimp are actually amazing for keeping eggs alive but them they are direct competition for food for the fry. Fry are super hard to catch so I would probably pull eggs and put them in a breeder box with a few shrimp to nanny them. 

    This actually gets me thinking about my own setup. I have a shrimp tank with cory eggs and fry. Right now it's not a big issue because the shrimp population is low but that won't be forever. Tbh, I might end up doing the breeder box thing too eventually. 

    That is some interesting bit of information! Shrimp nanny made me crack up😂 Do you have a suggestion for a breeder box that has minimal maintenance?

  9. I have a heavily planted tank with lots of christmas moss, java fern, dwarf hairgrass, and various cryts. The inhabitants are cherry shrimp, 4 amanos, and pygmy corys. Tank parameters are mid range gh, kh is very low but I'm working on it, pH is currently stable at 7.2 but I'm also struggling with this because of low kh.

    Now the shrimp are breeding like crazy and the shrimplets are also growing up okay. I have seen several cory eggs, cory fry, but no juvenile corys. I feed the tank with Repashy community plus, frozen BBS, and frozen cyclops. I was hoping to see some juvenile corys but I don't know if they are dying or just not growing fast enough, even though the shrimps are?

    I can't collect eggs and hatch and grow them out atm, but is there something I could do with the tank that will help cory fry survive?

  10. On 12/31/2022 at 6:18 PM, Colu said:

    I would do one more course of paracleanse before adding them to the main tank  one of my x-ray tetras has swim like this since I got him 4 years ago I don't think it's anything to worry about probably injury or swim bladder damage that never healed right @Neha

    Thank you very much!

  11. Okay, so it's now been about a month since this over dose happened. I installed carbon, removed it after a week or so, fed them live bbs, frozen bbs, and easy fry food. They are very active during meal times and in general also doing okay. Week 3, I did 1 course of paracleanse  because one of the tetras was looking a little big (just like the last one) and another one was having problems swimming from the start. I don't see any more bloating but the one that was having swimming problems is still the same. I have attached a video, he swims like this but everything else looks fine.

    I want to know if it is safe at this point to remove these from quarantine and add them to my main tank? I cannot afford any disease spread to my main tank where Frodo the betta fish lives. @Colu

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  12. On 11/30/2022 at 8:02 AM, Colu said:

    Bloating or pineconing can be caused by a number of things internal bacterial infection's internal parasites polycystic kidney disease with the symptoms your fish have  I think the best course of treatment would be to treat with Expel p 24hr water change  then follow up with paracleanse week 2 and 3 repeat this treatment and one of the active ingredient in paracleanse is metronidazole that also treats  gram negative bacteria aeromonas @Neha

    I just realized that I overdosed the med trio by twice the amount on Saturday. I feel terrible. What do I do now or is it too late?

  13. So I did not think much of the bloating and since the two were doing okay for the past month, I got 7 more ember tetras and medicated all 9 with med trio in quarantine tank. This was Saturday night. The bloated one did not look very good after medication and was swimming on the surface. Today, several don’t look very good, pale and not swimming very nicely. One was lying on its side but breathing. The one that is looking very thin is also from the last batch.

    I also saw some 2-3mm long stuff lying on the bottom, I don’t know what it is. I’ve added 1tbsp salt per 3 gallon and increased aeration. I could really use some advice here on what to do next.

    @Colu If you could spare some time to look into this again, I would really appreciate it. Thank you!

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  14. So I managed to save 2 ember tetras from this group. They are doing good at the moment. One of them is seems a little bloated though, they were fed only small amounts every other day for the past 5-6 days because I was out of town. Before that they were being fed frozen brine shrimp twice a day. Is this something I should be worried about? It’s moving, eating, doing everything fine.

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  15. On 10/4/2022 at 2:49 PM, Colu said:

    Sorry to hear that your still losing fish the internal damage caused by the  parasites can be too severe in some case even with treatment you can still lose fish what I would do is follow up with a course of maracyn in food to cover against any possible secondary internal bacteria infection and follow up in a week with Expel p @NehaIMG_20220714_201455.jpg.589e4a33672800dcb4a7896c5548a546.jpg

    Just out of curiosity, could I have fed this medicated food while I was treating with Expel-P or would it have made it difficult for them to pass the parasites?

  16. On 10/2/2022 at 11:57 PM, Colu said:

    As there hanging at the surface I would Add another air Stone and a small amount of aquarium salt 1 table for 3 gallons that will aid Gill function and add essential electrolytes other than that it just a case of wait and  see at this point sorry there's not a lot more a can suggest 

    So it is now the third and the last day of Expel-P. I've lost 7 fishes since Sunday when I started Expel-P. The 7th one died this morning. I'm wondering if my diagnosis was wrong and if I've been treating correctly because they are not getting better, instead, just dying one by one? On the other hand I don't know what else it could have been, I don't see any external infection, although I'm not an expert in fish diseases.

    It is very disheartening to see loss of life but I feel kind of helpless. Is there something else that I can try? Or should I just wait and see? I'm almost certain that the remaining 3 will also die. I'm very lost..

  17. On 10/2/2022 at 4:12 PM, Hally M. said:

    Good decision on your part for providing dither fish!! I’ve kept bettas for years now, their one of my favorite fish just because of how you can create special little bonds with them. Enrichment is always important in my opinion specifically for bettas just because of how active they can be, but also because people keep them as solitude fish it’s always good for them to have something to keep them occupied, wether that be toys or other fish. If you have a sensitive little guy the tale biting can be caused by a few factors, stress, boredom, or maybe it’s even a habit formed thing. I see it as a human who bites their nails. When u ask why do people bite their nails. Same reasonings essentially. Possibly moving tanks around and switching everything up for him may have been stressful at first, like a person moving houses. Change is hard. It sounds like he’s adjusted tho which is great news for you I’m sure!! Hope you and your little guy have a fantastic day!! He’s very lucky to have you

    Thank you so much for writing this. He is my favorite fish and also my very first. I am very attached to him, he's been with me through some very difficult times. I am happy that he's adjusting to his new tank now and doing much better. You have a great day too!

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  18. On 10/2/2022 at 12:16 PM, Colu said:

    It looks like wasting disease  if you have already done a water change and added ick x back in  I wouldn't do another water change a would just add in the Expel p in 24hr do a 25% water change and repeat the treatment for 3 days and then follow once a week for another 3 weeks @Neha

    Two more dead, several are hanging at the top, anything I can do? Anything at all?

  19. On 10/2/2022 at 11:20 AM, Colu said:

    You can use ick x and fritz Expel p together the active ingredients in the  medication won't have a negative interaction i would use the Expel p once a day for three days then repeat the treatment once a week for another 3 weeks @Neha

    My final IchX dose is today, so do I change water before dosing again with Expel P or should I leave IchX in the water? Also for the 3 day treatment should I do a 25% wc everyday?

    What disease do you think this is? 

  20. On 9/30/2022 at 7:03 PM, Colu said:

    A couple of them look they have a sunken belly What I would do is finish treating for ich then follow up with paracleanse it can take 2-3 course of treatment 2 weeks apart to internal parasite if their getting worse after a full course of paracleanse then I would treat with fritz Expel p it a more powerful dewormer than paracleanse 

    Okay, bad news, 1 dead fish. One of them wasn't looking too good last night and I guess he passed away during the night. Another one is not looking so good today, he is hanging at the surface and breathing rapidly, I'm not sure what to do for him. I have attached his picture

    I still had about a day of ichx left that I wanted to do but since 1 fish died, I changed roughly 25% water this morning and dosed with Expel-P. It says to change 25% water after 24hrs and follow up after 1 week. Should I do something else in between?

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  21. On 10/1/2022 at 12:11 PM, BAT said:

    How is he?

    He is doing much better. I spend more time with him and also give him mirror exercises, and he hasn't bitten his fins in a while. They are growing slowly. I also ordered a group of ember tetras for him but they are currently in quarantine. Thanks for asking!

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  22. On 9/26/2022 at 5:50 PM, Colu said:

    If you have ich I would water change out the other medications and just treat with ick x and aquarium salt 1 table for 3 gallons as ich causes massive electrolyte loss and the salt will add essential electrolytes just remember to only put back in the amount of salt you take out so if you do a 3 gallon water change put 1 table spoon back keeping treating with ick x for 3 days after you see the last spots  @Neha

    So by water changing out the other medication you mean I should not add them when I do the 1/3rd water changes after every 24 hrs and only add ich X? 

    Also, will ember tetras be okay with constant salinity in water?

    Also part 2, after I have treated with ich X 3 days after the last spots, do I put in maracyn and paracleanse 1 pck for 10 gallons, and leave for a week?

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