devind0446
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Posts posted by devind0446
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Hey all- So my problem is that every time I get new fish for my tanks, I have a huge problem getting the fish through the first week of having them. I have tried all different sorts of acclimation techniques and I still do not think I have bought a group of fish and had 100% survival. Most of the time its only like 50-60% survival rate. I have tried just floating the bag and letting them go, floating bag and then drip acclimation, and just drip acclimation and none have worked for me.
Today I picked up 7 neon tetras to add to my tank and I did 10 minutes of bag floating and then a 2 hour drip acclimation to double the amount of water. I put them in a quarantine tank with a cycled sponge filter and the quarantine med trio. I just went to check on them before going to bed and already had 1 little guy die on me.
Can anyone think of anything as to why I constantly have this issue. I feel like it isn't my store's fault because the fish always look healthy at the store and they are very reputable in my area.
Thanks for any help I can get!
Edit: Just wanted to add that I don't think its water parameters either. They are always tested before getting fish. Today that tank was 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 10 nitrate, 7.5 pH, 79 degrees F.
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I know they are working on it, but I think we would all love to see the heater that never dies.
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My neon tetras are not named but my betta is named Bruce and 1 of my snails is named Gary (from Sponge Bob lol). Here is Bruce:
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Good to hear your little guy is doing well!
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Plan sounds good to me...you could probably even add some tetras or other middle to top level fish in the 20 high.
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I think that would be just fine in terms of the nitrogen cycle but I do worry a bit because all those fish can get pretty chunky at full size. More plants on the other hand are always a good thing!
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I'm currently having the same problems and here's what I'm doing in my own situation:
I had 1 betta and 9 neons in a 20 gallon. I noticed the betta was having some tail issue and then noticed the tetras nipping on him. I removed my betta into my 5 gallon empty tank and I'm treating him with Maracyn for fin rot and to make sure any wounds on the tail don't get infected.
I have still noticed that now, the neons nip on each other since they don't have the betta to nip on. I had that issue one time in the past and I corrected it by adding more tetras to the tank to "overstock" with tetras which solved the problem.
So whenever I make it out to the store I'm going to get maybe 8-10 more neons and put them in quarantine and then add them to the 20 gallon. When this is done I will add my betta back in when he is all healed up.
I hope this helps and you can try and apply it to your own needs and situation!
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I think my best tip that I have learned the hard way is to spend the money up front so you don't have problems with failing/poor equipment in the future.
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Make sure you wait 5 mins to let colors develop and you really gotta shake the heavens out of the nitrate test and nitrate bottle #2.
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I know they don't contain any ammonia so they are safe to be in the water column. Not sure about the fish eating them- I think that's a good one for @Cory to answer. Just make sure that next time you push the tabs all the way to the bottom of the tank so they don't come up again.
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First of all, I think its very unlikely that you have 0 of everything...make sure you used your water tester correctly.
Second, you need to really get the tank cycled by giving the bacteria something to eat so it can grow and populate the whole tank and filter. You can do this by just putting in a little bit of fish food each day which will turn into ammonia and nitrite which the bacteria use a food and convert into nitrate completing the nitrogen cycle.
If you haven't already, make sure you are well versed on the nitrogen cycle. Your tank will be ready when you have nitrate but no ammonia or nitrite. At that point you can get fish, feed them, and enjoy them every day!
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I've never kept pea puffers before but due to how aggressive they can be I don't think quarantining in 10 gallons (or other small tank) is a good idea. If it was me I would rather spend lots on meds and quarantine in the 55 gallon instead of potentially loosing a few puffers to aggression in a small tank.
I think the best thing is to probably feed them 1 or 2 times before medicating. In addition I would make sure you do multiple rounds of dewormer because internal parasites are very common in puffers.
Keep us updated when you get your puffers, I would love to see how they do!
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The King of DIY on YouTube recently built a large outdoor koi pond. It was filtered however he lives in Canada so temperatures will be kind of close. I would recommend checking out his videos on the pond for some good info.
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9 minutes ago, Lynze said:
The snail in the photo is a mini Ramshorn snail. It most likely came in on some plants.
Unfortunately, I was thinking the same thing.
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Hey everyone
I know @Coryhas made like 1,000 videos on how to quarantine fish but I feel like its gotten a little lost in the weeds especially since he switched from recommending General Cure and Erythromycin to ParaCleanse and Maracyn so I had a few questions.
1. Is it okay to use Ich-X, API General Cure, and Mardel Maracyn together as my 3 quarantine meds?
2. Is the process still 1 pack of General Cure, 1 pack Maracyn, and 1 teaspoon Ich-X per 10 gallons and let it sit for a week?
Also if anyone has the link to the most recent video that discusses this that would be great because I couldn't find it.
Thanks!
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All plants will do just fine in regular gavel. Make sure you give root tabs to your amazon swords for some nutrients. I'm not sure about which light is best but here is Aquarium Co-ops lighting guide to help you choose. You probably only need low-medium light for java fern and amazon swords.
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I agree with more gouramis, they are an incredible fish.
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I saw your post a couple days ago about the water shock and I'm glad your betta is doing better. I think the best thing to do for your little fishy friend is to provide it with stability. A stable environment is much better than one that is always changing. Your fish will most likely come around with some time but it sounds like it has had a pretty rough few days and a stable environment will do loads more good than any chemical or medicine.
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I have a finnex stingray underneath the hood of my tank. It is the tank that comes in the petsmart starter kit. The stingray lights come with plastic parts to screw the light into the hood. Just make sure you the length of the light plus the plastic parts at each end will fit inside the length of the tank.
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I would try maybe feeding it bloodworms by hand with tweezers. I'm not sure if it would work but it's probably worth a shot.
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I always like to keep adding fish food (my source of ammonia) all the way until there is enough bacteria that there is no ammonia or nitrite and only tons of nitrate. I then do one giant water change to get all the nitrate out before adding fish. Your plants will help with the process too as you probably know.
I also love nerite snails so I would totally add them for plant/algae/food/poop clean up.
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I think the best thing would be a quick temperature acclimation and then straight into the tank. I'm definitely no expert though and you should probably get some other opinions as well.
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I have 1 betta and I've actually had problems with his neon tetra tank mates nipping him so I moved him back out of the community tank. I'm going to try increasing my tetra school size and adding the betta back in to see if it can work out because increasing school size has worked to lower tetra aggression for me in the past.
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I just started feeding frozen brine shrimp to my neon tetras and betta and they absolutely love it. I've never seen them act this way for a food before so I think any brine shrimp probably does the trick even though I've never used live baby brine.
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White Bump on Chin
in Diseases
Posted
I got some new neon tetras yesterday. They are in a 10 gallon quarantine tank with the quarantine ned trio. Saw this little guy has a small white bump right underneath his mouth, kind of between his chin and bottom lip. Can anyone identify what it is and it’s proper treatment? Thanks!
(ignore the bottom of the tank covered in algae lol)