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gjcarew
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Posts posted by gjcarew
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On 4/24/2023 at 11:34 AM, Mmiller2001 said:
Sweet, I have a few of those. I love Guyana, but I couldn't get it from rotting at the substrate line.
It's one of my favorites, but I've noticed the same thing. Some plants are fine with having their stems planted, but that is not one of them. Usually it has fairly prolific roots, so you just have to make sure that the roots are what's anchoring it.
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On 4/24/2023 at 10:59 AM, Mmiller2001 said:
Green, reds seem easier. But my plant knowledge is lacking.
Oh baby, here are some of my green foreground and midground favorites:
- Lobelia cardinalis
- Pogostemon erectus
- Pogostemon helferi
- Myriophyllum 'Guyana Mini'
- Monte carlo
- Dwarf baby tears
- Marsilea hirsuta (currently trying crenata, we'll see how that goes)
- Blyxa japonica
- Eriocaulon Vietnam
- Eriocaulo lineare (super pretty, but I haven't tried growing it yet)
- Hygrophila serpyllum
- moss on wood/rocks
- Crypt wendtii "green"
- Glossostigma elatinoides
- Hemianthus glomeratus
- Limnophila aromatic "mini"
- Helianthus angustifolius (vesuvius sword)
- Staurogyne repens
- Bacopa monnieri
- Nymphaea zenkeri "green"
- Nymphaea micrantha
- Hottonia palustris
- Hydrocotyle tripartite
- Lindernia rotundifolia (I like the variegated one)
- Ranunculus inundatus
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On 4/24/2023 at 10:37 AM, Mmiller2001 said:
This makes finding mid/foreground plants difficult to find for me.
Like you have trouble finding green midground/foreground plants or red ones?
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On 4/24/2023 at 7:27 AM, Mmiller2001 said:
Are brown plants counted like red plants in Dutch tanks? My guess the main rule is keep it green, but are you dinged for both too much brown like you would be for red.
According to Bart Laurens, about 60-70% of plants should be shades of green and the rest can be colorful. Joe Harvey often has 50% or more of his tank non-green plants, but he also balances it extremely well- as in he's not putting red plants next to red (or pink) plants, but they might touch a yellow plant. In this case, where the yellow Myriphyllum matogrossense "golden" touches the crypt jacobsenii, I think it works because there is strong contrast between the two. In general, I think it's the bright red plants that really draw the eye that are most important to be used in moderation.
This tank currently has too many species (damn you GSAS auction!). It is in its infancy in terms of composition. Luckily there are still months before I have to have something photo ready.On 4/24/2023 at 12:40 AM, anewbie said:There is a wrgb2 pro that adds white lights but it is a bit pricey and there have been some issues with wrgb 2 blue-tooth controllers failing.
I've never been a fan of tubes given their short life span - i think you are suppose to replace them around 4 to 6 months.
The Bluetooth controllers with the Chihiros lights are definitely a drawback. It's ridiculous that Bluetooth isn't built in.
Especially for predominantly green tanks, high color temp white lights are really all you need. I have a 10,000 kelvin ADA Solar 1 that I want to get out for an iwagumi scape one of these days. It really makes the greens pop.
There are a lot of drawbacks to T5's but the tests I've seen haven't shown them losing significant par after 2+ years.
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The Ludwigia definitely needs to be a bit bigger, but I just got it. I need to grow it out some more.
I have also considered adding some tall plants like Ludwigia Pantanal in the back row to fill up some more space. Or potentially put some branches covered with subwassertang somewhere just to break up the size of some of the background groups.
I appreciate the suggestions, it's always nice to get a second opinion
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Already scheming for how I want to rearrange with the new plants. For context, here is tonight's full tank shot:
So what I'm thinking is to move the golden myrio to between the two background groups, and put in a street with the hygrophila serpyllum that disappears behind the crypts. In this plan I would get rid of the few lobelia cardinalis on the right hand side. The didiplis diandra (if I can grow it) will eventually for a big orange group on the back right for some color on that side. I may also move the eleocharis to the middle of the street - it's a very classic Dutch look and would lend some grassy verticality to that area.
Here is a very rough mock up:
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On 4/23/2023 at 3:36 AM, anewbie said:
Which chihiros; I have the wrgb 2 and overall i hate the balance. So far I'm liking the new blade a *lot* better and it is less expensive.
I have the original WRGB. I like it but it's not big enough for this tank.
Is that the aqua illumination blade?
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Still have some rearranging and water changes to do, but here are three full tank shots. First is with the T5, second is with the chihiros, and third is with both. It really underscores how poorly lit the tank has been since last year.
I will have more plant closeups later, but I picked up hygrophila serpyllum, a tiger lotus, didiplis diandra, bacopa salzmanii sg purple, and some subwassertang.
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On 4/22/2023 at 5:01 PM, anewbie said:
What GH are they keeping it at? Also not all GH is equal. I.e, i think it depends on the mineral content that composes the GH.
Generally 5-13 GH and 3 KH from what I saw. Check out that link I posted though, it's fantastic.
I'll update later with all the plants I bought at auction, but maybe the biggest change is I bought a 4 foot, 2 bulb T5 to supplement my 3 foot LED and reach those back corners. It was $16 and had a geisemann tropic in there so quite the deal!
I may pick up ab ATI purple bulb to help show the reds because they are a bit washed out right now. But overall I think the increased light is really going to help with plant color and growth.
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On 4/22/2023 at 10:36 AM, Mmiller2001 said:
Hygrophila Difformis is really popular with the NBAT tanks. Must be the leaf shape.
That's why I started using it. Turns out it's a pretty steady, well behaved plant so I've kept it for a few years now
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How big are your club auctions? 700+ lots for sale at the GSAS general auction
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Believe it or not, this is after removing a dozen bags of plants
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Just posting this Dutch aquascaping inspo link from NBAT here so I don't lose it: https://online.fliphtml5.com/hwppk/nvsi/?fbclid=IwAR1SeUMjpw_ePb7lySWroCWLFlKp_POfa8-GYtyoW0_EE71Prp_vNrzIBTw
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A few cool plants I got:
Ludwigia repens 'Rubin' was in almost every tank in the NBAT pamphlet I found. Plus the Ludwigia natans (behind) doesn't like my conditions, so it's time to try something new.
I've never seen this one before. Hydrocotyle leucocephala 'Variegated'. Tough to tell because this was under super high light, but it has white markings on the leaves.
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Check out this video to see how gas sits in pipes. Sure, high enough velocity can push air out, but the point of a larger pipe is it causes the flow rate to slow down so that won't happen.
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On 4/17/2023 at 10:35 AM, Mmiller2001 said:
@gjcarew I assume the answer is yes, but double checking with you. Monte Carlo will grow if I just attach it to wood, correct?
Yes, with as long as you have high enough water column fertilization.
On 4/17/2023 at 6:55 AM, anewbie said:The picture he has shows air on the top side of the tube with the water on the bottom but in reality there is nothing that prevents the tube from filling up completely with water and the co2 being forced lower. Did i miss something ?
That's not how gas and water interact. An upside down cup full of air will never fill with water no matter how deep underwater you go, or how fast the water is moving past the bottom of the cup. The gas will always rise to the top of the container.
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Seeing this design, I'm wondering why reactors were ever designed vertically in the first place...
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That looks like a regular Anubias barteri. Anubias nana would be around the size you're looking for.
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Most of their website is in Dutch, but this pamphlet is in English. It has some fantastic information on design, water parameters, and plants for Dutch-style aquascaping. I've been pretty obsessed with this style for quite a few years and this may be the best resource I've ever come across!
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On 4/11/2023 at 9:03 AM, Mmiller2001 said:
I've had them for a little while in the 75. I keep them at a 4.2dGH. I'm wondering if they might be able to go lower.
I say try it out. Rainbowfish habitats can vary widely across their range. I don't think 3 GH would be pushing it too far.
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On 4/11/2023 at 8:33 AM, Mmiller2001 said:
Here's the current algae bloom. Some filamentatious algae and GDA. The GDA is slowing down believe it or not. It was way worse last week. This may be do to using tap water for the initial fill. Since then, I've been using my normal mix for water changes. I'm seeing a few areas of BBA as well. Hopefully the CO2 issue gets resolved soon.
My plans for my water are to push it softer. This is why I'm not sure I can keep the Rainbows. I'm wanting to drop down to 3dGH and 0dKH.
@gjcarew, 3dGH too low for Dwarf Neon Rainbows?
I haven't kept them before. They are popular around here though, and our water is very soft.
On the flip side, I've heard they are overbred and can have some health issues. If you can find them, Melanotaenia rubrivittata would be a nice alternative.
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Yet more rearranging! And I made a buce wall. Which looks kinda garbage right now but maybe it'll improve eventually?
I also kinda want to get that big red lotus back from last year. And I'm trying to replace the lindernia rotundifolia with lobelia cardinalis. I just haven't figured out how to trim the lindernia right.
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Plants do best when they're allowed circulation. Trimming plants is vital to their health, it looks like it's working for you!
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My newest setup. Looking for suggestions.
in General Discussion
Posted
I think a Hamburg Mattenfilter covered in moss would be cool to hide the back wall and equipment