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gjcarew

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Posts posted by gjcarew

  1. On 4/24/2023 at 11:34 AM, Mmiller2001 said:

    Sweet, I have a few of those. I love Guyana, but I couldn't get it from rotting at the substrate line.

    It's one of my favorites, but I've noticed the same thing. Some plants are fine with having their stems planted, but that is not one of them. Usually it has fairly prolific roots, so you just have to make sure that the roots are what's anchoring it.

    • Like 1
  2. On 4/24/2023 at 10:59 AM, Mmiller2001 said:

    Green, reds seem easier. But my plant knowledge is lacking.

    Oh baby, here are some of my green foreground and midground favorites: 

    • Lobelia cardinalis
    • Pogostemon erectus
    • Pogostemon helferi
    • Myriophyllum 'Guyana Mini'
    • Monte carlo
    • Dwarf baby tears
    • Marsilea hirsuta (currently trying crenata, we'll see how that goes)
    • Blyxa japonica
    • Eriocaulon Vietnam
    • Eriocaulo lineare (super pretty, but I haven't tried growing it yet)
    • Hygrophila serpyllum
    • moss on wood/rocks
    • Crypt wendtii "green"
    • Glossostigma elatinoides
    • Hemianthus glomeratus
    • Limnophila aromatic "mini"
    • Helianthus angustifolius (vesuvius sword)
    • Staurogyne repens
    • Bacopa monnieri
    • Nymphaea zenkeri "green"
    • Nymphaea micrantha
    • Hottonia palustris
    • Hydrocotyle tripartite
    • Lindernia rotundifolia (I like the variegated one)
    • Ranunculus inundatus 
  3. On 4/24/2023 at 7:27 AM, Mmiller2001 said:

    Are brown plants counted like red plants in Dutch tanks? My guess the main rule is keep it green, but are you dinged for both too much brown like you would be for red.

    According to Bart Laurens, about 60-70% of plants should be shades of green and the rest can be colorful. Joe Harvey often has 50% or more of his tank non-green plants, but he also balances it extremely well- as in he's not putting red plants next to red (or pink) plants, but they might touch a yellow plant. In this case, where the yellow Myriphyllum matogrossense "golden" touches the crypt jacobsenii, I think it works because there is strong contrast between the two. In general, I think it's the bright red plants that really draw the eye that are most important to be used in moderation. 

    This tank currently has too many species (damn you GSAS auction!). It is in its infancy in terms of composition. Luckily there are still months before I have to have something photo ready.

     

    On 4/24/2023 at 12:40 AM, anewbie said:

    There is a wrgb2 pro that adds white lights but it is a bit pricey and there have been some issues with wrgb 2 blue-tooth controllers failing. 

    I've never been a fan of tubes given their short life span - i think you are suppose to replace them around 4 to 6 months. 

    The Bluetooth controllers with the Chihiros lights are definitely a drawback. It's ridiculous that Bluetooth isn't built in. 

    Especially for predominantly green tanks, high color temp white lights are really all you need. I have a 10,000 kelvin ADA Solar 1 that I want to get out for an iwagumi scape one of these days. It really makes the greens pop. 

    There are a lot of drawbacks to T5's but the tests I've seen haven't shown them losing significant par after 2+ years. 

     

  4. The Ludwigia definitely needs to be a bit bigger, but I just got it. I need to grow it out some more.

    I have also considered adding some tall plants like Ludwigia Pantanal in the back row to fill up some more space. Or potentially put  some branches covered with subwassertang somewhere just to break up the size of some of the background groups.

    I appreciate the suggestions, it's always nice to get a second opinion 

  5. Already scheming for how I want to rearrange with the new plants. For context, here is tonight's full tank shot: 

    PXL_20230424_034524578.jpg.261f742886c9083e11a42f3dc2506f7f.jpg

    So what I'm thinking is to move the golden myrio to between the two background groups, and put in a street with the hygrophila serpyllum that disappears behind the crypts. In this plan I would get rid of the few lobelia cardinalis on the right hand side. The didiplis diandra (if I can grow it) will eventually for a big orange group on the back right for some color on that side. I may also move the eleocharis to the middle of the street - it's a very classic Dutch look and would lend some grassy verticality to that area. 

     

    Here is a very rough mock up: 

    PXL_20230424_0345245782.jpg.29fc6d8fe6f40d00643e6559f2dc0958.jpg

    • Like 1
  6. Still have some rearranging and water changes to do, but here are three full tank shots. First is with the T5, second is with the chihiros, and third is with both. It really underscores how poorly lit the tank has been since last year. 

    PXL_20230423_071754571.jpg.e2343c6b8c52018b0b5773a05cef8f88.jpgPXL_20230423_071915287.jpg.72ffab8896c19ef687ac783b38abcc93.jpgPXL_20230423_071838077.jpg.3508f44f91d5a93d7f2b53c790d2d57a.jpg

    I will have more plant closeups later, but I picked up hygrophila serpyllum, a tiger lotus, didiplis diandra, bacopa salzmanii sg purple, and some subwassertang.

  7. On 4/22/2023 at 5:01 PM, anewbie said:

    What GH are they keeping it at? Also not all GH is equal. I.e, i think it depends on the mineral content that composes the GH.

    Generally 5-13 GH and 3 KH from what I saw. Check out that link I posted though, it's fantastic.

     I'll update later with all the plants I bought at auction, but maybe the biggest change is I bought a 4 foot, 2 bulb T5 to supplement my 3 foot LED and reach those back corners. It was $16 and had a geisemann tropic in there so quite the deal!

    I may pick up ab ATI purple bulb to help show the reds because they are a bit washed out right now.  But overall I think the increased light is really going to help with plant color and growth.PXL_20230423_013604240.jpg.73e2b5738023eb34416da20c30659b81.jpg

     

     

    • Like 1
  8. On 4/17/2023 at 10:35 AM, Mmiller2001 said:

    @gjcarew I assume the answer is yes, but double checking with you. Monte Carlo will grow if I just attach it to wood, correct?

    Yes, with as long as you have high enough water column fertilization.

     

    On 4/17/2023 at 6:55 AM, anewbie said:

    The picture he has shows air on the top side of the tube with the water on the bottom but in reality there is nothing that prevents the tube from filling up completely with water and the co2 being forced lower. Did i miss something ?

    That's not how gas and water interact. An upside down cup full of air will never fill with water no matter how deep underwater you go, or how fast the water is moving past the bottom of the cup. The gas will always rise to the top of the container.  
     

  9. On 4/11/2023 at 9:03 AM, Mmiller2001 said:

    I've had them for a little while in the 75. I keep them at a 4.2dGH. I'm wondering if they might be able to go lower.

    I say try it out. Rainbowfish habitats can vary widely across their range. I don't think 3 GH would be pushing it too far.

    • Like 1
  10. On 4/11/2023 at 8:33 AM, Mmiller2001 said:

    Here's the current algae bloom. Some filamentatious algae and GDA. The GDA is slowing down believe it or not. It was way worse last week. This may be do to using tap water for the initial fill. Since then, I've been using my normal mix for water changes. I'm seeing a few areas of BBA as well. Hopefully the CO2 issue gets resolved soon.

    PXL_20230411_152918446.jpg

    PXL_20230411_152928898.jpg

    My plans for my water are to push it softer. This is why I'm not sure I can keep the Rainbows. I'm wanting to drop down to 3dGH and 0dKH.

    @gjcarew, 3dGH too low for Dwarf Neon Rainbows?

    I haven't kept them before. They are popular around here though, and our water is very soft.

    On the flip side, I've heard they are overbred and can have some health issues. If you can find them, Melanotaenia rubrivittata would be a nice alternative.

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