Markp2483
-
Posts
85 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Feedback
0%
Content Type
Forums
Downloads
Store
Events
Blogs
Gallery
Profiles
Posts posted by Markp2483
-
-
-
Flipped the pipe around so it’s the right way
-
3
-
-
well works pretty good. nothing is glued so all the joints leak but I think it passes as an air powered hob.
-
1
-
-
Hillstream approved
-
Here is the video
-
Just got a the Easy flow kit for some sponge filters to play around with. I noticed the bend nozzle tube diameter looked very close to the diameter of the waterbox 20 bulkhead fitting that attaches to the pump. Removed fitting and pump. Lift Tube is perfect size. Hooked it up to ACO battery air pump worked ok but a lot less flow then pump. Got a more powerful air pump (30 l/min) out of the garage and hooked it up. Pump is loud (reason i dont use it) but the flow looks like more than what the 300g/hr electric pump can produce. (i think because of the restriction in the bulkhead fitting)
What's nice about this system
cost 6 bucks for a pump,
no more shrimp in pump. If you keep shrimp in an AIO they will find a way into the back area
Less of a chance of overflow. If you run an AIO for long enough i think most people end up with an ATO. The problem is as the filter material gets clog the water water level in the pump chamber drops which will trigger the ATO when you dont want it too. With an air lift pump the flow rate is dependent on head height so when the filter material clogs water drops then head increases and flow decreases. Will need to play around with ATO sensor height but promising.
Have to get back to work but will post a video tomorrow
-
2
-
-
Southern California, it doesn't get super cold maybe down in the 40's a couple of times but winter here is more in the 50's at night and 60's during the day.
-
1
-
-
Purchased new from lowes, cleaned with degreaser, sanded, wiped down and applied pond armor.
I put my on some gravel with some large paver's
Added plants as soon as I could. Fish when i saw there was some nitrate in the water about a month after. Here's what it looks like today. Winter is starting to kill the larger plant but should come back in the spring. Have white clouds, rice fish, 2 giant dojo loaches and a bunch of cherry shrimp and snails. I thought the dojo loaches would eat all the shrimp but they are super lazy
-
1
-
-
The idea started with me making a 3d printed overflow when i realized the overflow is a perfect basket for foam and filter floss. I think its better to pull the water through filter media rather than pushing it and siphon should do that without the chance of overflowing.
There is a union on the underside of just incase you need to disconnect overflow and get the siphon going again (tumble it around in a bucket or tank till the air comes out). The valve and cam lock is for clean out. I've upgraded my python to camlock as some of the python fittings were leaking. Large chamber is to reduce the speed of the flow and allow for a more efficient airlift pump. It also works as a nice place for bio media
Con's I see
1) probably will need substantial airflow to get 200gal per hr which is the same as the current pump i have on the tank
2) Overflow is a surface skimmer so you need a ATO system. (already in place for me)
3) kinda large and plumbing parts are expensive right now
I haven't decided if i'm going to make it but the overflow box is in production on craftcloud . Ill test it out on the bench and see if everything works.
What do you guys think?
-
2
-
2
-
-
Finished my own version 100gal version. Hollowed out some bamboo. Think it adds a little
-
6
-
-
Just built a 100gal galvanised pond. Coated the inside in pond shield and added a water fountain similar to deans muck bucket design. Get around 110gal per hr per spout so 220. Now to planting
-
3
-
-
Agree with everything but I’m impatient and would rather water on demand (stuff happens) plus wife doesn’t want any more tanks even if they are temporary-ish. Filter was 130 last 6-8months and the replacement is 25 for the kdf cartridge and sediment is 8. Not the cheapest solution but live in a small apartment.
-
Hi Pepere
I think your right about the chlorine. I get virtually nothing when i test for chlorine. Seems like something is off with there chloramine system. I only temporally hold the water in the trash can. This was just to get the temp right (mixing hot and cold) and was for making sure the accr got mixed in before adding to tank. Already order the kdf85 filter so that should solve the ammonia and chlorine problem in the future. My thought process was it was easier to get a better water filter than to have to wait 24hrs to have useable water. And i would have to heat the water up to tank temp in the garage which has been in the 40's and 50's. Cold temp would also slow down bacteria ammonia uptake. no option is ideal
-
Reply for town below whole lot of nothing. Also talked to my lfs and he says it happens.
"Good morning Mark,Thank you for reaching out to the City of Newport Beach Utilities department. I am sorry to hear about your fish. We have not changed anything within our system. We make great efforts to maintain consistency with our water quality. Every year, the dialysis centers in the City of Newport Beach will contact us asking if changes are to be made that we notify them. Nothing have changed recently nor will it in the foreseeable future.
If you have any other questions, please let me know.
Have a good day.
Best,"
-
1
-
-
Yeah this is the first time I’ve found ammonia in my tap water all other tests have been zero. I probably last checked my tap water a year or two ago. You get those first couple of positive results and think your good.
-
1
-
-
Ordered a growonix hydroponic filter with kfd85 filter supposedly that will remove chloramine and ammonia. Will mount that to my trash can mixing container. Hopefully that will do the trick for now.
also emailed my water department. Will post there reply here
-
So had some sick fish. Spooled up a qt tank. Ran the fish through meds (1 week). Water changed started feeding food . Tested water noticed a little ammonia so water changes ( end of week two). Today noticed the fish were not as good as they were before yesterday waterchange. Tested water and found ammonia. Did a big water change and fish immediately did not like it. Lost one and the other one still super stressed out. Tested the qt water 2.0 ammonia. How could that be just changed 90% water. Tested tap water at least 2.0+ ammonia.
I live in Costa Mesa, California and on city water. I change water by pumping water into 20 gallon trash can, match temp with a digital thermometer and treat with accr. I run a pump in the trash can for recirculation before pumping into tank. This is the first time that I’ve had this problem. Have others had this problem? What’s the solution? Yell at the town? kdf filter? Super bummed had both fish near 100% and then this happens.image below is straight out of the tap
-
Is there an upper limit to tds/hard water? Over the past year and half I’ve noticed my city water tds has crept up from 160 to 335. Using aquarium coop test strips I’m at 300+ for both GH and KH. Ph 8.0. Maybe 5 or 10 ppm nitrate out of the tap. All my tanks have lots of plants and they all grow fine except for scarlet temple strangely. I dose ferts with a dosing pump and inject CO2. Before water change my tds is 550-650 depending on evaporation. After a 50% water change my tds is at 450 range.
Tank 1 has: neons, cherry barb, praecox rainbows, some ottos, hasbrosus Cory’s, cherry shrimp and a bristle nose
tank 2 has: lambchop razboras, embers, neon gobies, hillstream loaches, yellow neo shrimp and two giant Kuhli loaches.
tank 3 is a old folks tank and some praecox fry
tank 4 is a shrimp spill over tank/ qt
Mini pond has a bunch of rice fish
shrimp breed like crazy
I feel like I’m on the high side of safe but maybe I’m projecting because I notice the water is itchy after showering. Is there a a hypothetical line we should not cross?
also is there any guidance on dosing ferts with hard water? I’ve moved to mixing my own dry ferts but all the suppliers recommend using ro water which I would like to avoid or a least limit it’s usage
what do you all think? Problem or just in my head
-
On 5/29/2022 at 4:09 AM, Brian said:
I’m not sold on this idea. I have pretty good RO/DI unit.
01. Isn’t there efficiently related to water pressure?02. Mine removes everything, but wouldn’t you want something in the water? Mine says on it do not consume on a regular basis. We (fish) need some minerals?
03. If are just going to target ammonia, nitrates and nitrites couldn’t you use more plants?
I don’t know…. I guess I have some reading to do. Thanks
Hi Brian
yeah still just a thought experiment if it even makes sense. But to answer your questions
1) yes would need a pump to pressurize the ro membrane.
2+3) yea not trying remove everything and I do like plants. Nitrate is rarely an issue. I have hard water and I do need to add ferts as the plants show deficiencies if I don’t . So my main reason for water changes is to remove the other stuff that builds up from evaporation. Say my water had a tds reading of 500 and I find for my water the fish and shrimp like below 250tds from observation. And it’s a 100 gal tank. The tds out of the tap is 150.
without ro
Day 1 I do a 50 percent water change my tds drops from 500 to 325day 2 do 50 percent water change and tds drops from 325 to 237.5
so after two water changes I use 100gal
with ro
day 1 do 50 percent using ro. 25gal is waste and 25gal goes back into the tank at 0 tds. Add 25 gal back from tap. Tds drops from 500 to 287.5
day 2 do the same . Tds drops from 287.5 to 181.5
so this would be 50% water savings
but you could take this further
Day 1 do 40% water change with ro. 20 gallon waste and 20 gal 0 tds back into tank and 20 gal from tap. Tds goes from 500 to 330
day 2 do the same 40% with Ro. Tds drops from 330 to 228.
40 gallons of waste and a 60% water savings over non ro water changethis is not for everyone. But maybe a good solution for people in drought prone area like here in Southern California.
-
1
-
-
I was thinking of a no storage option. Stick the ro intake into tank. Half the water goes back into the tank and half goes out to flower beds. Only have to replace half the water. Say you have 100 gal tank and do 50% water change. If you used ro water that’s 100 gallon waste (50 in effluent and 50 water change). If you used an ro filter for water changes (25 gallons would be effluent from water change and 25 would be from effluent from new water) still a savings of 50%.
My tap water isn’t too bad in the 250 tds range but if I only do a 20% water change once a week it will get into the 400 tds range eventually and I do notice difference in shrimp breeding and general fish behavior.
what I’m considering is use the ro filter just for water change and replace the remaining with tap water. This would be a 50% saving. But then maybe since my tds isnt creeping up as much maybe I could get away with a smaller water change which would increase my savings over doing large water changes once a week.
the biggest problem is finding an ro filter that can process water fast enough that your not spending days doing water changes which would be silly. Or maybe this is better setup for a slow continuous water change system.
-
I was watching a koi YouTube channel from the uk. One of those channels where they have massive square ponds with large viewing windows and crazy filtration. This guy water came from the towns water supply. For water changes he used RO water. The best RO are only about 1:1 so for every gallon of ro you have a gallon of waste. You can imagine his water bill was getting pretty high on a 5000gallon pond. So one day he plugged his ro into the pond. He had to add a better pre filter but he was able to reuse half the water that would normally go down the drain during water changes. This got me thinking does anyone do that in the aquarium world?
I live in drought prone California. Thought it was kind of interesting option to conserve water.
-
1
-
-
Hi nabokovfan87
All the foam is 2” aquaneat Amazon foam that I cut to fill . The blue is coarse foam. I think I have some fine foam in the garage. So I could take out the second media basket and put in a strip of fine foam. I probably would put a block of coarse in the bottom to kind of direct the flow (least resistance). The flow pattern will probably get better as the fine foam gets clogged up.
thanks for the suggestion-
1
-
-
Todays update
Cut one of the media baskets and slid it over into the intake chamber.
had to point the intake up to have enough room. It’s a little noisy and splashy at max pump speed to to make a small spray bar. The flow is now moving in the right direction. With a spray bar should be good to go.
-
Hi Tihssho
Thanks for replying
I’m not trying to do a freshwater refugium. I’m trying to make a hang on back sump.
the filter floss is alternative to a filter sock.
I replaced the filter sock that came with my aio on my other tank with this https://intankaquatics.com/intank-chamber-one-media-basket-for-waterbox-cube-waterbox-marine-waterbox-marine-x-waterbox-peninsula-mini/#descriptionit’s worked out great. All I do is change out square of filter floss once a week and that’s my maintenance. My sponges and media never really get dirty. It’s easier and cheaper than filter socks and shrimp safe. They walk right in eat what they like and then leave. I imagine it would be tough getting shrimp out of a sock but maybe it’s ok.
that said for the hang on back sump the sock might be better if I can’t get the flow going in the right direction. A 2” filter sock looks like it would fit perfect. But would rather keep the filter floss solution if I can get it to work in the long run
if I do end up putting Java moss it would be at the other end in the chamber below the overflow. It shouldn’t see too much flow and would face the window. So probably enough light for moss
-
1
-
first attempt at air driven HOB
in Experiments
Posted
Sure here is an step file for the overflow. Bulkhead is a aquarium coop 3/4". The airlift is a 3/4" jetlift i found on Esty, works good but the sockets aren't deep enough for proper gluing
overflow part 1 https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nByI4Ox8o0iC_F8phvjDwYCvVfAD2kmN/view?usp=drive_link
overflow part 2 https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fGbng40MXsahySwW1u8EDqINrJkOUs-i/view?usp=drive_link
This is set up for a rimless tank around 10mm thick so if your glass is thicker or a rimmed tank than you'll need to modify it. Also may need to vary intake height depending on where you keep your water level
I printed it out of ASA which i believe is a more UV stable ABS like plastic.
I really like how simple it is to start the siphon. Just submerge the in tank piece rotate 360 till the bubbles come out and place into holder box. I havent seen any overflow boxes this easy to start without pumps/airline tubes/disconnecting hoses etc