Ramie
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Posts posted by Ramie
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I have a betta with velvet and possibly something bacterial. I have polyguard and it would address both and says it can be dosed up to 2 weeks....which is good as parasites have the whole life cycle aspect to treating them. But i worry it may be too strong. Ich x i also have on hand but it says it can only be dosed up to 3 days. Does anyone have experience treating velvet with either of these....or just using either of these in any case...how did it go? What did you do? Any seemingly bad side effects?
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4 minutes ago, DShelton said:
By no means am I advocating using a tank with questionable seals, but I just took down a 30 gallon long (36x12x16) that is at least 30 years old (All Glass brand, the predecessor of Aqueon) in which the seals have looked “bubbled” for at least the last 10 years.
Yours looks vastly more of a cleaner sealant job than mine...at least in that teeny section. Mine have no bubbles. I actually read about that bubbling happening with aqueons..idk how recent..didnt pay attention to the dates...and in those cases it was not a problem for most people...something to do with sealant that cured funny but not actually affecting the seal. Mine is more just..really not sure if it has enough in some parts and then not sure if it has too much in others (not that in the case of too much the seal would leak..more just hoping it wouldnt affect the weight distribution of the water on uneven sealed glass walls and cause a crack or other physics type issue.) I never took any pics..i set that tank aside to worry about later and im just gonna use a bucket for now..but i do think im gonna give it a chance after i fill it and let it sit a few days. I dont care what it looks like...i care about water leaking or worse like glass, water and a dead fish on my floor. But i do feel better about it after a lot of people have said theirs was sloppy and held. I will pop back and post pics here when i get to it to see people's opinions on looking at it.
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46 minutes ago, tolstoy21 said:
I have a ton of sloppy-work aqueons. None leak. I find these tanks reliable even if the people putting them together didn’t do their best job at making the seams look nice. Anything on the glass itself I just remove with a razor.
Very good to know. Thank you
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1 hour ago, Daniel said:
I have never had an Aqueon tank leak.
When Cory needed to buy aquariums for his new fishroom recently, he choose Aqueons.
I hope his dont leak. It seems from most of the people i have talked with aqueon is just sloppy but still solid. However...i purchased this tank as an emergency back up that i needed asap...but now i dont think im going to use this tank as what i purchased it for as even with everyones comments im just not going to be able to sleep and trust this tank with my fish in it without leak testing it for an extended period of time..not just 24 or 48 hours. Its really sloppy...i keep having thoughts of the tank bursting at night. So the fish is just gonna have to go in a bucket for now. Thanks though.
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1 hour ago, MickS77 said:
I have some where the silicone is barely visible because they used so little, still holding water fine.
Good to know.
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9 hours ago, MartyO said:
I literally just bought one of these myself from Petco last week. Yeah the silicone job is something to be desired by far. But I have to say the tank is holding just fine and quarantining some corydoras just fine. Leak test it and if it is not leaking you'll be fine unfortunately this is the kind of attention to detail you get from mass produced aquarium makers. Also Aqueon aren't the kind of tanks I would call display or center piece tanks.
I dont need it to look good...i just want to be able to go to sleep and not worry something will happen. And i needed it asap. I wouldnt trust it on a 24 hour leak test...so i may keep it i may not..but not without testing it for a week...for now im going to put him in a bucket. But good to know theres a chance its not a total waste.
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2 hours ago, Kirsten said:
Sorry to hear you had this experience! I haven't had that with any tank I've owned, from several companies, 1.5 gallon to 36 gallon.
If you have any paperwork from your purchase, I'd recommend contacting the store you bought it from. They may be able to send you a replacement.
In the meantime, I'd recommend draining it and applying an extra coat of silicone to the seams if you want to keep the tank.
Its a 15 dollar 5.5 gallon that i need immediately...it has never had water in it..was about to set it up to leak test it for 24 hours...but it is such a mess i was concerned about filling it at all...i should have checked it out before i left the store but i was in a rush to get my things and get home as i had to work the next day and petco is 2 hours away. I bought a moss ball recently so im about to bleach my current tank..this one was just where i wanted to put my fish while i got my current tank taken care of....I may just put the fish in a bucket for the whole situation until i can get my current tank done and dechlorinated...I was debating on getting my money back.. I cant get a refund if i put water in it. Im not sure if want it now or not. A spare tank is good to have...i just hope if i do test it and it leaks they dont replace it with an equally disappointing one...idk if id trust myself to add silicone to it..its a cheap tank so not the end of the world.. But regardless...it makes me nervous and im out of time so a bucket it is. I drove 2 hours so he wouldnt have to be in a bucket...and got a tank id leak test for a week at least before id trust it with my fish...so in a bucket anyway. My own fault..should have checked....i just never even imagined id get at all silicone that looks like this does. Thank you for your advice.
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1 hour ago, quikv6 said:
I would go ahead and do a leak test. I have 2 Aqueon tanks, and the silicone is certainly sloppy at best. But neither leak, and to me, that is what is important.
Yes im only concerned with its construction..not its looks...im bleaching my other tank in accordance with my state recommendations..i recently bought a moss ball..this tank was purchased to be where i moved him too during the whole bleaching thing...but maybe ill just use a bucket..i have a box filter i can put in the bucket and a heater...i may leak test this tank for a week and if it passes ill keep it for future spare tank needs.
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1 hour ago, KBOzzie59 said:
99.999% of the time you can finish their job by trimming of the excess with a single edge razor blade without issue. Got a picture of the seam where you are concerned?
I will take some in the am
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Just got a 5.5 gallon aqueon.The silicone is a mess! Seeped through to the outside in many places thick beads of silicone on the outsidevat the seams.....smeared on the glass walls on the inside...little tails of it everywhere...spread different distances from the seams on the inside..hard to tell if the seals are good or not....i havent but one other glass tank (not aqueon) and its silicone is near perfect. So i only have that to compare it to. Should i be concerned? Aqueon makes so many tanks and so many people use them...is messy silicone normal for them and its really a solid tank..or is this a red flag?...not sure if i should go ahead and leak test it or just take it back....i live 2 hours from where i bought it so its not an easy return.
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27 minutes ago, Frank said:
I'm just starting, with plants, so I can't be much help.
A lot of mine look just like yours. They started pearling, then a week later, there was visible algae on them.
I am still working on it. I reduced the lighting and increased both fertilization and water changes. Plus, I'm removing plants that look hopeless.
It looks like things are turning around, but it's too soon to tell.
Well...it seems like we may just be on a normal track. Still though i didnt think about the algae causing the pearling.
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7 minutes ago, Frank said:
The pearling might be from algae growing on the plants.
Good point. Though the bubbles are on the parts of my plants that still look half alive....but one or the other is photosynthesizing. How to i keep the algae down and the plants healthy?
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41 minutes ago, H.K.Luterman said:
How old is the tank? The brown algae is probably diatoms; this happens in newer set ups, usually popping up after a few months. It's caused by extra silicates in the water and will eventually run its course. If it's easily rubbed off, its definitely diatoms and isn't much of a concern.
Pearling means photosynthesis is happening and is a good thing, they're releasing oxygen and are doing well.
The orange circles look like snail eggs, yes.
Not completely sure what the purple circles are. Could be biofilm or uneaten food or some other type of debris. I wouldn't worry about it. Lots of weird organic stuff happens in an aquarium, and is typically just natural processes of absorbing nutrients and such. Maybe someone else will recognize it.
As for water changes, with a nitrate level at 10 you're doing great. I only ever water change if nitrate reaches 40, or if I just want to clean up mulm; and if it's for the later reason, I do a very small water change, just enough to vacuum a little. You don't want to starve the system by not providing enough waste to keep the nitrogen cycle going or make your plants too hungry. You might even want to add some nitrates with liquid ferts to help out your plants.
And you can clean off the glass anytime, that wouldn't hurt anything.
Hope that helps!
Its a few months old. Set it up at the end of November. Fish in cycle. Added the hornwort after it cycled. Then a week later the elodea. I do have a peice of filter media that i need to change out...its the white and blue stuff..i have it in there the entire time. I did add some filter floss and matrix a few weeks ago that im hoping seeded enough by now i can replace the other stuff. Its brown and slimy. The algae showed up recently..i think it started because i have been feeding a type of food that he doesnt get all of so it sinks...figured the snail(s) might get it. Not really the sides of the glass. But good to know nothing too crazy is going on. I use flourish as a fertilizer..but only during water changes which are usualy once every 7 to 9 days...just because..never had my nitrate hit 40..close but not quite...my nitrates have been rising more slowly since i put the plants in there. Tomorrow is gonna be water change day. Thank you for responding.
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On 2/23/2021 at 11:25 AM, H.K.Luterman said:
Slow moving worms sliding around your glass are completely normal, they help eat leftover food in your tank and are part of the ecosystem. Your betta will probably snack on them.
Can you take a photo of the growth on your hornwort?
I posted in the plant section about stuff happening in my tank...a different growth on my hornwort and some other things if you feel like checking it out...maybe give me some advice if you have some.
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My elodea and hornwort (floating) are looking sad and brown. I have some type of brown algae going on (and an angry fish. See photo. Lol). It has been 12 days since i did maintenance on this 5.5. One betta. 3 snails (the first i noticed 12 days ago the third just tonight). Some flat worms on the glass (rhabdocoela i think..definitely not planaria). Ammonia has been definitely zero but looked like the api test might have a green tint tonight..or maybe im seeing things the more paranoid i get. Im totally new to plants and never had a snail...i guess they came free with the elodea....they poop a lot!. Nitrite zero...nitrate around 10ppm. pH around 8.3. Temp about 78.
Questions (see photos):
1. Whats up with this brown algae on stuff...is thats whats up with my plants or are they dying?
2. My plants are pearling with little bubbles (see teal circles) what does this mean with all else going on..they are pearling and dying?
3. What is this white hazy fluffy fuzzy..idk stuff on my hornwort and at the surface line on that elodea? (See purple circles)
4. Are these pest snail eggs? (See orange circles..they are grouped..not pearl bubbles)
Please any info? Did i wait too long to do a water change? Is my tank gonna crash if i clean the glass now? Is there something i need to watch out for? Change? Any info on how i move forward would be appreciated.
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24 minutes ago, Bruce said:
@Ramie Whenever I get detritus worms(what I believe you have) to a noticeable level, I do a slightly larger water change maybe an extra 10%. I also gravel vac more thoroughly.
These are definitely not detritus worms. They glide along the glass...they dont wiggle in the water or substrate as i have a bare bottom tank. Definitely seems more like flatworms..unless detritus worms can also appear as flat looking worms gliding along the glass and not wiggling?
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I tossed it..it eventually detached from the hornwort. But if it comes back again ill show you. Im thinking these are rhabdocoela worms? They glide...many different sizes..but cant see any triangular shaped head even on the ones that are 2 or 3 mm long....but there are quite a few of them..they seem to hang out together..most of them moved to a side panel of glass. i tried to photograph the worms but my camera is the worst camera i have ever had on a phone. Will not focus. Ill try not to panic if they are harmless..but what do i do if they get out of control?
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I see today worms..tiny ones...they dont appear to have that head shape planaria does...slithering across the glass on my tank. Seemingly only the front pane. Maybe they like sunlight There was also some white growth on my hornwort that i have removed one already and it came back in the same spot and i removed it again..i thought maybe it was some fungus or algae. It sort of grows in a ring. But made its related to the worms. Anyone have any ideas. I have 2 different types of anubias, hornwort, and elodea. I have recently noticed baby snails. One betta. Feed dry foods. I may need to replace some of my filter media...could they have come from old slimy media? Help me.
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7 hours ago, Colu said:
The majority of the water conditioner that detoxify ammonia/nitrite/nitrate are sulfonate
7 hours ago, Colu said:The majority of the water conditioner that detoxify ammonia/nitrite/nitrate are sulfonate based
The majority?...that implies there are a few that arent. Do you know which ones are not?
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6 minutes ago, Colu said:
Prime is also sulfonate based Fritz guard is also safe to use with ich x
Frtiz guard wouldnt help me...id need something to detox ammonia/nitrite/nitrate. It doesnt do that that i can tell. Maybe ill just wait and make sure my cycle is still good....or maybe ill dose the fritz meds and wait on the ich-x. I was just planning to use them as a precautionary thing. Thank you for responding....especially with information. Much appreciation.
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16 minutes ago, Colu said:
Fritz complete is sulfonate base and will affect ick x it should be fine with maracyn paracleanse API stress coat is safe to use with the med trio
Thank you for that! Could i use prime?
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Do any of these meds in the trio interact with fritz complete water conditioner? Or are they safe to use together. Ich-x has some warning about certain types of water conditioners so it got me wondering. I just took the part of my media out that contained carbon...so i could use these meds..i still left some filter media that did not have carbon in it in the filter but in case i have a mini cycle occur while im medicating i need to know if i can use the frtiz complete or not to keep him safe from that angle. Anyone know?
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1 hour ago, tolstoy21 said:
Hmmmm. I guess?
I think they create as much flow as the amount of air you're pushing through them. Even if they are clogged, I'd imagine air is going to create flow, same as a plain old airstone would outside a filter would.
I've never had a flow problem with them, but then again, I use them in pretty minimal setups, and not in my tanks with lots of plants and hardscaping that naturally create flow issues and dead spots.
I have never used anything requiring an air pump before. Dead spots and hot and cold spots are my concerns. I have co ops little green hanging air pump to use with it..its meant for my new tank that i havent set up yet...i like that i can choose my media and its not as much current as i have a betta...so i decided to get that air pump and a box filter but then thought...oh no..maybe it wont have enough current. *face palm*
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14 minutes ago, tolstoy21 said:
I use box filters in anything that's not a display tank. I put bio media in them only to weight them down and really utilize them as something to pack with floss to do mechanical filtration.
Most of the time, I'll also run a coarse sponge filter, like the one the coop sells. I find the coarse sponge isn't as good at mechanical filtration as a box filter and I find a box filter is easier than the dense sponge filters that clog quickly.
Plus the floss always lets you know when it needs to be changed by being brown, as opposed to the dense black sponge filters.
Do you find they create enough flow? It would be my only filter if i choose to use it in a 10 gallon with a heater.
Polyguard or ich x....
in Diseases
Posted
Oddly the one time i used polyguard was to treat velvet...and it worked. It never came back....but about 8 months later that fish had something bacterial going on and i used kanaplex...he seemed to be getting better and all of a sudden had dropsy and died within 48 hours. Idk if the kanaplex was too much for him...but i also wondered if perhaps the polyguard months before had caused perhaps some damage also that the kanaplex just finished off...which is why im wondering if ich x is less intense but also effective. Not trying to kill my current fish trying to save him..as i may have done before. (The current fish didnt get it from my last fish...no cross contamination. Completely different equipment and everything) I also have erythromycin which i could dose him with after the velvet is taken care of. Have you used ich x for velvet or ich? If so did you dose more than 3 days or did you repeat dosing after a number of days? Did it come back?