MWilk
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Posts posted by MWilk
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Are you against adding floating plants? Your aqua soil is going to be adding a not insignificant amount of nutrients to the water column.
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It will take a lot of water to dilute it out.
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On 9/16/2024 at 9:32 PM, Retrophyllum_minus said:
One of my favorites, actually, Mayaca fluviatilis - wiki link.
Oh right on. I have a bunch of its cousin, Mayaca vandelli. It’s yellow and not as thick, but super soft.
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It seems like every time I get a new leaf on my crypts my monster sized mystery snails go marching over the leaves to smash them flat against the gravel.
What’s the green fuzzy stem plant in the middle there? I like the look of it.
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Beautiful floaters. I love the mix of large and small leafed plants.
where’s the flamingo? The super thick clumps in the back? I planted some recently in my 20L and it melted away to zero leaves, and now has grown 3 leaves of new growth and still a lovely pink. It’s a cool plant.
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Just finished liquid testing for GH/KH/PO4/pH/Ca
8dGH/4dKH/1.0/7.4/30
that calculated out to a 1.9:1 Ca:Mg and now I understand why, they go by weight not ppm. Thank you for the link. Now I’m just going to dose up Easy Green heavily for a month and see how it goes.
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Is there some component of hardness that is unexplainable? If GH is 180ppm, and Ca is 30ppm, what is the rest if not magnesium?
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My live bearer tank receives regular doses of equilibrium and the ramshorns do well in there.
I’m just baffled by the numbers given by our water treatment facility with magnesium being so high. I figure there must be something about the relationship that I don’t understand.
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On 9/15/2024 at 10:34 AM, JoeQ said:
Calcium & Magnesium (along with sulfer) are considered secondary nutrients. I'd be first interested in your macro (Npk) dosing. These are nutrients needed in large quantities, if these nutrients aren't available calcium & magnesium aren't even being consumed. That is what I see, a macro shortage.
That was my first thought too, I may still not be doing enough.
2 pumps of easy green 2 times a week, keeping nitrates above 20. The floaters absorb a ton of it. I don’t have any way to test it, so I squirt a little easy iron and a capful of seachem potassium in there because that’s what I do in my other 20 that is doing very well.
The thing that started me looking at calcium at all was my snails, I use this tank for mystery snail breeding and they’re not making it past the hatch in sufficient numbers. I also got a very pretty rabbit snail for another tank and want to make sure the calcium stays high enough for their long term health.
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This is the tank in question, just a 20 long. Specifically, the scarlet temple in the back right is barely growing, and starting to die off at the bottom of one stem. The golden nesaea pedicellata is doing okay, not great. Hydro salicifolia in the left rear is okay, fairly algae free but very slow again. The anubias nana dropped a leaf yesterday. My GH is about as high as it can get, and calcium tests at 30 ppm.
this tank is unheated, 70-72F, has the 24” co-op light on at 60% from sunup to sundown. A full covering of red root floaters on the top of the water. Nitrates 20-30 ppm. Blindly dosing iron and potassium weekly. I have added equilibrium a few weeks ago to try to raise calcium but it contains magnesium as well, though at least in a decent ratio.
Does 41 ppm magnesium not seem outright absurd for tap water?
I added several pictures, the dwarf sag is new, don’t mind it.
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What is a moss slurry exactly?
I have this nasty thing in a totally unmaintained shrimp tank. I’m pretty sure it’s 100% algae but for some reason, algae doesn’t grow anywhere else in the tank but on this log. I actually pulled the log out of our farm pond years ago and stuck it in this 29 when I kept bluegill in the tank. Are there some mosses more suited to this sort of thing than others?
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I keep seeing recommendations for something like a 3:1 Ca:Mg, but my city’s water reports having more like a 0.8:1. I am not sure I trust it, as my water tests very, very hard, but wity a calcium test I’m consistently coming up with that same ~30-35 ppm calcium in my tank. I suppose next I need an accurate phosphate and a more accurate GH measurement than test strips will give me, but my plants are suffering.
Any recommendations? My other tank, I’ll be honest, I haven’t even tested. The plants there are fine, but it is different plants.
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On 9/13/2024 at 6:17 PM, TealStarlight said:
Do you have a link to an outdoor sporting good store for the item you recommend? Ty. Yes i love him so much. He’s amazing.
I would just go shopping in the physical store and feel the nets. A lot of them are what they called “dipped nylon” and are sort of scratchy. Find something that feels comfortable for him. How often do you really need to scoop him up though?
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You’d be better off shopping at an outdoor sporting goods store fishing section. That’s a large fish.
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I like those little guys, they are lightweight so they can climb all over plants without disturbing them. They won’t multiply like crazy unless you overfeed. I have them in every tank I have and they never get too bad except in the shrimp tank in my kids’ play room at grandmas house. They get fed way too much there.
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Is that eco-complete substrate?
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White cloud minnows. 100% peaceful.
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On 9/11/2024 at 9:41 PM, AtomicSunfish said:
I have found predation rate of guppies / Endlers alone to be very low, leading to overpopulation. Those are the only livebearers I’ve bred, so I don’t know how prone to overpopulation the other species are.
Mollies are pretty vicious. Swordtails as well.
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Or with that small of a tank, maybe you’d like salvinia minima?
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My RRF never really seem to have red roots until I take them out of the water to sell them.
looking from the outside, they just look like roots.
Sorry the tank isn’t exactly picture ready
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A 90 gallon is just asking for swordtails to be added.
The population of fry gets stable after some time, predation rate is very high.
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What kind of filter do you have? Red root floaters are nice, their roots don’t get excessively long like some others. They are sensitive to being beaten apart by filters.
Crypt lucens is a very short plant by the way.
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Looks like potassium deficiency.
Upgrade 20L to 29? Pros and Cons.
in General Discussion
Posted
The only con is that you have to set it up all over again but it sounds like you don’t have plants anyway. The other con is also plant related, as others mentioned. Light penetration is weaker. I basically got my 29 and 20L setups exactly backwards, cherry shrimp in the 29 and a cold water heavily planted community tank for the 20L. My plants regularly grow out of the top of the tank.
I keep white cloud minnows in both tanks, they do not care about depth at all and just go wherever they want. They’re very good fish.
Don’t mind my ugly tank. It’s a work in progress. I don’t really know what to do with that vertical space.