Mr. Ed's Aquatics
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Posts posted by Mr. Ed's Aquatics
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I bought 6 from a shop that were supposed to be Bronze, but half were actually Rusty. The Rustys look a lot like yours.
Not sure how to link it here, but I have a video on my IG showing both kinds.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CIwhwivBz0_/?igshid=14ojx0jhgx5y
*I think I figured out how to link it *
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I like the twist on this piece.
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As long as it fits well, it's fine. The tank range is usually whatever the filter that it's for is rated.
I think you might have meant sponge filter instead of pre-filter though. If you have the 20 gallon sponge filter, you can use that in a 10 gallon too. Just more surface area for beneficial bacteria.
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In my experience, they don't slow down. Once every 3 months, I have to sell 1/2 the tank or it's ridiculously crowded.
One of my friends who keeps them also keeps 6 bar fronts with them for population control... I was surprised they didn't go after the adults, but he usually has about the same size colony so I suppose it works.
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When you said you just got them, I was reminded of the last thing I was going to get but decided against it, being December, and them being really temperature sensitive. I was going to get neocaridina pumpkin shrimp.
Not sure if you ordered them or drove them from a store, but if your water conditions were good, I'd guess temperature shock. The 1 that you already had that died may have been effected by the other dead/dying shrimp in the tank.
Hard to say though, as some of the strains are kinda sensitive.
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42 minutes ago, Cory said:
They’ll be fine.
Even though Dean rinses them, I also just add the brine (it's a tiny amount). Many fish I keep like African cichlids and live bearers like a bit of salt anyways.
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I saw someone using an intake pre-filter sponge on their return hose to diffuse the water and thought it might work for HOB filters too.
I just cut a large pre-filter in half and again down the side.
It diffuses the water enough for me to grow floating plants that don't like faster flow like water lettuce.
May work too well, judging by the massive amounts of plants covering the top.
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8 hours ago, Daniel said:
I think the best evidence of lack of censorship on this forum is to look back at all the posts since that first day on July 14th, and look at all the links that have been posted and all the products that have mentioned and ask yourself, does this look like a forum that is trying censor a free discussion?
It can be tricky to the keep a place like this as kind and helpful as it has been since that first day July 14th, but I think it has worked amazing well.
I'm not trying to be difficult, but this reply kinda implies I'm full of S*** and this didn't happen.... then in Cory's reply, he mentioned the situation, and mentioned deleted posts. I know I'm not crazy, I legit had posts (mid conversation) deleted and don't know why I'd make that up. I stopped posting regularly when it happened again (and I was sick w/ CV19 and a little worried I was going to die).
Now, I am not trying to slam the Co-op or Cory. I buy quite a bit from them, I'm a member of his channel and I regularly donate on his streams. I'm a fan and recommend both his website and brick and mortar to my own customers.
At the end of the day, the content here is moderated (they have mods), posts can and are removed (for whatever reason) and in my personal experience, content with links to other companies can go "missing" without explanation.
I don't care though, I only asked about it after the 1st time it happened so that I could follow any rules and not upset anyone from the Coop. I continue to try to help when I can and share neat ideas or projects now that I'm feeling better. I even altered my own behavior and only posted a picture of what I was talking about in my newest post DIY light screen instead of direct links.
I still think you're better off not posting direct to other companies. Whether or not it's "against the rules".
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1 hour ago, Ken Burke said:
I don’t recognize those. What kind are they?
Macmasteri gold form, I'd never seen them before either. Cool little species
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Well you posted a picture of the planted version twice but that's okay, I own both and know the difference.
The planted light has way more LEDs. Still not enough to grow plants on a 20, but more than the regular ones.
I have to use 2 of the planted ones just for low light plants like Anubias, Java moss and crypts. If you haven't bought them yet, I'd say hard pass.
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I've mentioned a product that is aquarium related and nothing close to what the Co-op sells and my posts vanished. (No link btw, just a mention)
I asked if they were censoring content after the 1st time and they played like they didn't do anything and didn't know what I was talking about. When it happened again (I clarified what was allowed) I just assumed they do and don't want to admit it. Kinda why I hadn't posted in a month.
I think the safe bet is if it's not a Co-op link, don't post it.
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My newest ones...
Macmasteri gold form
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What it looks like at night
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49 minutes ago, Colu said:
Oscar cichlids. Malawian cichlids
Other than as a grow out, a 75 is a poor permanent home for Oscars. I have a couple with African cichlids though, that's a good pick.
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1 hour ago, Ken said:
That really looks cool. I wonder if the light is diffused enough you could leave it on during the main light "siestas" for viewing?
The green and purple presets on low look good during the 8 hour dark cycle. Doesn't seem to bother the fish, but makes a good night light.
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31 minutes ago, AdamTill said:
It’s actually more likely that the large pores will collect debris and create nitrate.
The whole full cycle concept is not impossible, but difficult to setup in an average aquarium
I disagree that it would create nitrate. I have 2 75 gallon mbuna tanks, one with artificial decor and one with a ton of lava rocks built into caves. The one with the lava rocks is always way lower in nitrates than the other on waterchange days and needs less water changed. Even though it has a little more bio load. I have a similar situation with 2 29 gallon planted tanks. The one with crushed lava rocks in the bottom does noticeably better than the other with regular gravel.
I think it would only be a problem in a tank with bad flow, which is it's own issue.
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2 hours ago, Maggie said:
That looks beautiful! And you have the lights just along the bottom? I've been wondering what to do for my 20L.
Thanks, I really like how these came out. Both of these are just lit at the bottom since I have 24/7 lights on the top and they cast a different glow at the top depending on what time of day it is.
I ordered more supplies for my 46 Bowfront, probably going to try doing the top and bottom of that one.
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4 hours ago, StephenP2003 said:
I finally got around to editing and uploading my first "official" youtube video -- one in which I do actual voice-over.
I have been trying to get a video done myself but even at a couple minutes per tank, it's just over an hour. LoL
Keep me on just the forums and IG/FB for now.
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5 gallons is too small, you need surface area to provide territory. Smallest I'd try is maybe a 30L, ideally a 40B + would be better. Emphasize ground area over depth.
I usually start people off with a half dozen and within a month or two they have a colony going.
For the shells, everyone I know uses escargot shells from Amazon.
If you do give them a try, I'm sure you will enjoy keeping them.
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12 minutes ago, JeffM said:
I am seeing that the Waterbox style rimless aquariums are all the rage in Europe. I am also noticing that they seldom use a lid. I would be worried about jumpers, but it does not seem to be a concern with them. What are your thoughts?
If you look in the corners, many of the rimless tanks have little blocks to support a different style of lid. Lots of the EU fish keepers are using lids, and they almost always remove them for pictures. Lol
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I kinda specialize in African cichlids and can answer a few of your questions.
Yes, get a spraybar return. All my large African cichlid display tanks have these and the fish like the flow and the oxygen exchange is super helpful for typically overstocked tanks.
As for the plecos, I have good luck with BIG species like commons, sailfish, and royals. Horrible luck with SMALL species like bristlenose, clown or rubberlips. Africans are too nippy for smaller plecos in my experience.
For your other fish ideas, like Cory said, the tank is too small for more than 1 rainbow / redtail shark. One will do fine with mbuna though, so try to get it at the same time and have it grow out with the cichlids. Rainbows and Barbs are a really bad idea, really any community dither fish is not going to work. Maybe consider clown loaches or synadontis catfish if you want something other than the cichlids. (Again, grow them out together if you're going to try them, don't add them later as adults to an existing setup)
For everyone saying that you can't do plants with Malawi cichlids, I'd say yes and no. You can't just plant it with whatever you want, but there are many types that either the cichlids don't eat, or that still grow fast enough to thrive and provide a snack.
Many plants like Anubias, Java Ferns, Valisineria grasses, Hornwort, etc will work just fine.
As far as the age old question of how many fish.... it's going to depend on how much you feed them, how often you want to do water changes, etc. I would suggest between 20-30 honestly. Less and you're in for fish picking on specific fish and deaths... more and the water is going to be toxic.
As far as heaters, I have Hygger 300 watts for mine and they work well..
Hope that's helpful
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I've always glued the roots and the bottom of the rhizome for Anubias. Try not to seal the rhizome in super glue, you don't need that much. But every Anubias in my aquariums have been glued this way and none have ever had issues.
The ferns I don't use glue, they're pretty easy to wedge in hardscape or tie with green thread. But I've seen them glued similarly and no problems there either.
I think the key is to never completely cover the rhizome to avoid it rotting. But don't sweat getting some glue on the rhizome. If you only use roots, they're pretty floppy and the flow in the tank could cause damage to the plant.
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I was trying out cheap background options for some of my project tanks with no background and really like how these came out.
Total cost for 2 29 gallon tanks was under twenty bucks and it took me less than half an hour to complete on existing setup tanks.
Supplies needed: BIHAND 6.56ft USB LED Strip Lights with 24 Keys Remote($8.99) and Elmer's Acid-Free Foam Boards, 20 x 30 Inches, 3/16-Inch Thick, Bright White, 2-Count($7.96).
Just cut off 2" across the bottom of the poster boards (save these). Or cut 2 1" strips if you're doing one tank, top and bottom.
Remove the tape backing and stick the LEDs on the 2" strips from before. You can cut the LED strip if your tanks aren't side by side like mine or it's enough to do a continuous backlight for the bottom and top of just one tank.
Just place the strips behind the tank and then put the poster boards...
I used a little bit of white duct tape on the bottom corner to stop it casting light on the floor, but it's not necessary.
The remote it comes with let's you change the color, intensity, fade, flash, etc. For less than the cost of the lame vinyl backgrounds from the pet store, it's definitely worth considering.
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