Ahughes1805
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Posts posted by Ahughes1805
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I apologize Nabokovfan87, I misread your troubleshooting. I can inform you that when I do the buffers less remineraliz that within 30 minutes - 1 hour the PH and KH rise to the levels I need. I don’t have a spare/fresh RO/DI 5 gal bucket to do the buffer request for 24 hours. I normally purchase 3-5 gal buckets worth for 20% water change in 1 tank and 20% water change for another tank with desperate parameters and 1 spare on which tank needs attention over the other during the week before I purchase refills of water.
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On 7/16/2023 at 2:51 PM, nabokovfan87 said:
@Ahughes1805 for the sake of sanity checking what is going on let's run a trial test. Take your 5G bucket and do everything you normally do, but don't add remineralize. Once the bucket has sat for 24 hours with an airstone, test everything. Add in your remineralize and test again. Wait another 24 hours and repeat that testing.
Those 3 sets of data will give you a good idea as to what the buffers are really doing. If you're adding buffers, over time it's very likely you will see things build up and increase over time.
The following has 0 buffers added and just Brightwell Remineraliz.I have 3 test strips. 1 prior to adding 10 ml of Brightwell Reminerliz (yesterday) -image 7866, after -image 7866 10ml of Remineraliz was added, 1 taken this AM prior to leaving for work -image 7868, and 1 taken 10 minutes ago -image 7875.
Doesn’t seem to show any color change with the GH. I can attempt 1 capful which states to be approx 5ml for any changes.
The batch of Remineraliz is not expired. I do have a wondershell coming in the mail to see if that helps with any GH increase. I’m also half tempted to use the salty shrimp GH/KH+ I have to see any changes happen to the GH in lieu of Brightwell…if the salty shrimp works I may purchase the GH+ version and continue to use the Seachem Alkaline and Acid buffers for PH/KH.
On 7/16/2023 at 10:57 PM, Galabar said:Appreciate the article, I could never find that before hand and Seachem Malaysia has a video tutorial and developed the following. Just 1 if the few printed out for varying PH/KH needs.
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I’ve been using Brightwell Aquatics Remineraliz for over a year and never had issues until recent. I’ve noticed that my GH which used to be hard (which I want) in the tank has gone soft after creating my own water from RO/DI with Seachem Alkaline and Acid buffers to achieve my required PH, KH, and Remineraliz based on directions and formula for 5-gal buckets used for water changes. I do 10/6 to get 1.67 mL per gal, multiply by 5 for 5 gals which should be 8.34 to increase the GH by 10. I’m not seeing an increase in my 5 gal bucket. Now I’m adding the remineralize after my buffers and unsure if that’s causing an issue.
Thanks.
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Hello, unsure where to place this question discussion topic wise. I’ve just noticed these little things in my 10 gal. Unsure what they may be, any ideas?
Tank is planted only at this time with snails.
Thanks.
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On 1/29/2023 at 10:13 AM, Rube_Goldfish said:
First, a caveat: I've never kept any of these plants. With that out of the way...
For the hornwort with the pink/red tinge, notice how it's the new growth at the top? It's closest to the light. Lots of plants will get a pink or red hue under bright light. I remember hearing that it's basically plant sunscreen to protect themselves from the light. Anthocyanins, I think? Anyway, it's not at all detrimental to the plant and a lot of people try very hard to get some of those colors in their tank.
You also said that the tank is recently established, so the hygro may just still be adjusting to it's new parameters, especially as your tank's chemistry stabilizes itself. Do you see any growth? It should be much healthier. You can trim melted leaves or just let them be. I have to say, though, that they don't look too bad to my amatuer eyes.
Your parameters, assuming they're stable, look very good for plant growth. Do you know your tap water parameters after the water has had a chance to rest (off-gas) for 24 hours?
Why are you doing Easy Carbon? Despite the name, it's not a CO2 thing, it's gluteraldehyde, an algaecide. It can be rough on some plants, too. Unless you're combating algae, I'd shelve it (you can always pull it back out for spot treatments later on).
Thanks for the response! This is only my second tank and still learning. I just assumed with a name as “Easy Carbon” that it would be a form of liquid carbon so I am not injecting any form of CO2 to assist with plant growth. Stupid mistake on my end. In terms of the hygro, it has shown new growth in where I had trimmed and replanted throughout the tank. It has been like that for about 2 weeks until the yellow spot appeared and up to now that area has gone clear. I have placed 1 tab next to that specific hygro since every other hygro has been shown to be healthy. If I didn’t mention, my might timer is set from 8AM-5PM.
I forgot to add. I can’t use my tap water. Even with a conditioner nothing survives…I purchase RODI water and use Seachem Alkaline / Acid buffers together in 5 gal buckets. Since I made this in excel. I’ll change total gal as needed, etc.
Please ignore some of the notes since that’s the printout for my 20 gal at home with higher ph, GH, and KH for mollies.
the tank in this thread has a printout with it at my office.-
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Recently established 10 gal tank for plants and shrimp. Plants include Monte Carlo, Hornwort, and Blue Hygro. The Monte Carlo is spreading and slowly poking through randomly in the tank substrate. The Blue Hygro had melted when placed as a bunch and separated began growing new leaves. The Hornwort is floating and places in an easy planter rock.
I’ve included a few images of the Hornwort and the Blue Hygro that I was hoping someone can explain what each planting is doing. From the redish/brown tinge on the needles of the hornwort to the random yellow spot and discoloration of leaves on the blue Hygro.
I use 1 pump of easy green every Monday morning and Thursday evening. 1 pump of Easy Carbon every morning. I root tabbed on the 4th and planed on doing new root tabs every month around the 4th.
Water parameters shown and when KH drops I incorporate 1 cap of aquavitro Carbonate which puts it back up to around a 2-3 DKH.I test every morning to see where the KH and PH rest. I need to lower the GH and I do small 10% changes weekly.
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To all whom view,
Within the 2 days of this symptom showing the Molly has passed. 😞
No other fish showing identical symptoms or problems. If anyone has any knowledge so that I can learn more…I appreciate any similar instances and possible causes.
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The tank has been fed the same amount of food each morning.
I haven’t introduced anything new to the tank. I just noticed last night and will keep watching but if the thought of a parasite…I’ll quarantine and use a medication and see if anything changes.
Thanks.
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I have 2 images of my Molly who has gotten larger in days which I believe is pregnant again. However, she’s been acting different. Floating mostly head down. Unsure this is just a pregnancy problem or an underlying Illness. All other fish in tank acting normal.
no spikes and all tank levels normal.
thanks.
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On 10/1/2022 at 2:06 PM, KentFishFanUK said:
So on the seachem website if you go to the instructions for the Alkaline buffer there is a calculator you can use to figure out how much to use to target a specific KH. You work out how much alkaline buffer first.
Then there is also a chart with the ratio of acid buffer/alkaline buffer to use to target a specific pH - for example for a neutral pH you would use half as much acid buffer.
I was reading that and was based on a 20 gal situation. I’m using 5 gal buckets to make the water. After trial and error using measuring set spoons that are like “drops” “smidgen”, etc I’ve been able to balance it all out.
Set has been helpful if anyone else needs small teaspoon sets.
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On 9/26/2022 at 2:46 AM, AnimalNerd98 said:
What is your target pH/KH/GH? Also, may I ask as to why you are wanting to use remineralized RODI water instead of dechlorinated tap water?
The Alkaline Buffer and Acid Buffer work basically in opposites. The Alkaline buffer contains mostly sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) and increases the KH by adding carbonate and bicarbonate ions to the water. The Acidic Buffer contains mostly sodium bisulfate which converts bicarbonate/carbonate ions into CO2, lowering the KH. What are your plans for increasing GH (magnesium and calcium ions).
I hope someone else can help with the math and dosing part.
I have extremely high iron in my tap water. I have to use specific salt in my water softener. I’ve also had bad experiences with my gal water when dechlorinated.
I utilize brightwell remineralizer.
thank you for the better explanation. Could I have just purchased standard baking soda for alkalinity?
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On 9/25/2022 at 7:37 PM, quikv6 said:
May be unrelated, but just checking to see the tank is cycled. Zero nitrates can sometimes indicate an immature/uncycled tank, which can result in issues, especially when dealing with an illness or injury.
Thanks for the insight. Tank has been running for 4 months now. I did run into 1 random nitrite spikes at the end of the first month of the tank being set up. When I did find something like that I was doing 25% water change, test and if still high do another change the next 1-3 days. I also do 10%-15% water changes weekly. The last time I had higher nitrates it was at most, 40ppm.
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On 9/25/2022 at 2:48 PM, DiscusLover said:
It is not ich. The only way fish can get ich is other fish that has been introduced into the tank with ich. Most likely it will be fungus. I recommend taking out the babies or the parents because the parents will bother and try eat the fry. If the white gets worse you should try treating it for fungus
I’ll see how the individual fry does. The parents can’t get to the fry but I’m thinking when the fry was born it got nipped since I didn’t have the pregnant molly separated yet.
Thanks!
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Hello, I get RO/DI water from local pet store and using the Seachem products to buffer water for the first time. Products are Seachem Acid Buffer and Seachem Alkaline Buffer. I could only find info on YouTube for Seachem Malaysia discussing the dosages to reach KH and PH with the videos one example. Does anyone have formulas for 5/10/20gal situations? I know it’s a broad question. I’m just looking example situations so I can understand the math behind it and be able to see the formulas visually. I’m a visual learner to see it and then try it on paper to understand.
thanks
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Hello, I have a 20 gal with black mollies and nerite snails. While at work one of the mollies gave birth and was able to locate 5 fry. I noticed 1 fry had possible been nipped because the tail fin was slightly shredded at the top (like missing) getting a picture is hard due to their size but it looks like the tail fin top is regrowing but white. The whiteness is larger then what I’ve seen of ich before. Water parameters are as followed.
PH: 7.6
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 0
Ammonia: 0
All the fish and other fry are swimming and acting normal and no visual issues on other fry and fish. The fry seem to be bullying one another too.
The fry are in same tank but in netted box right now.
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I wanted to put the moss on a rock while still attached to the lath on top of a rock.
We’ll see how it goes.
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Hey, I’ve ordered Java moss before, took off of the strip lath it came on and glued on to drift wood. Minimal issue.
The attempt I’m thinking of next and wanted opinions, has anyone left the moss on the strip lath and attached the lath with moss directly to a new substrate? I want to get a stone and attach the moss to…being the lath is mailable it shouldn’t be an issue? Any thoughts?
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Currently running a aqua clear 30 for my 20 gal tank. I’m looking to startup a 10 gal within a few days. Would it be dumb to have another HOB filter on the existing 20 gal to begin building some bacteria in the ceramic rings while I get everything for the 10 gal? Do you think it will shorten the tankless cycle?
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Wanted to say thank you every for the ideas! Really helps out!
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The RO water from the pet store I get is about 6.6 on the PH when I test it so I use about .75 ml and it brings I up to 7/7.2 ph…I have a hard time distinguishing the 2 blues on the API scale kit. However the PH up is added to the 5-gal bucket and not the tank.
The tap water is high in iron and I use a specific salt “Red out Dura Cube” to reduce the iron we get.
I’m going to continue small water changes with addition of salt to see how the symptoms improve. Fin related issue seem to be very slow on the progression side.
I appreciate everyone’s feedback!
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I’m looking to put up a black background on my tank and looking for opinions and links.
Thanks!
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On 8/17/2022 at 2:53 PM, quikv6 said:
It sounds like you have an immature biofilter, and a tank that may not have completed it's cycle. Meds such as Maracyn can further impact an immature biofilter. Being these issues were most likely due to the nitrite spike and associated stress, I think maintaining clean, fresh water is the best solution, along with some aquarium salt. Small, daily water changes may be your friend for awhile.
Also, I don't believe you mentioned GH/KH....but Mollies generally thrive in harder water with minerals.
I didn’t mention the GH/KH since I unfortunately don’t have something at this time to test that. I do know the water is softer. I can’t use tap water even with a conditioner because it’s extremely hard (have a water softener). I purchase RO water from my local fish store by 10-gal at a time and store until used. Water is tested and as needed, PH-up to meet ph needs.
I have utilized brightwells remineralizer when doing the most recent water change.
I’ll introduce small doses of salt and see how that works with 10% water changes. Being that I’m 20 gal. Salt instructions say 1TBSP for every 5-gal. That seems hefty, what is your personal experience with introducing salt.
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On 8/16/2022 at 7:53 AM, Ahughes1805 said:
Here are a few photos. I checked this morning and didn’t see any more white specks like ich any more. 2 photos are of separate neons. One is of a Molly, bad photo but tried showing its front fins since they seem very translucent.
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To follow up when everything started, when the nitrites spiked to 5+ is when visible illness was showing. I was under the assumption I had an issue with the bacteria since ammonia stayed 0 and nitrate was at 40. But I’ve been testing daily and everything is staying in the range I described.
I do have aquarium salt and melafix(thanks for clarifying the product).
I started reading/watching a video where ich-x, fritz maracym, and another fritz product was used in a quarantine tank. I was also looking into other API products but since I’m so new I wanted to see what other have done and recommend.
General Hardness Not Increasing
in General Discussion
Posted
So I know the strips aren’t bad. I ran at my office and saw the strip change for hardness. I’ll have to pick up liquid kit and test GH specifically and see if that shows anything different.
In terms of PPM or DGH, 10 gal per 1 capful (5ml) is roughly 83 ppm or 3DGH if at 0 -per google. I don’t have the bottle in front of me at the moment.