w0walana
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Posts posted by w0walana
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On 6/16/2023 at 11:00 AM, xXInkedPhoenixX said:
Hi, the last picture seems like normal shaped poop to me. What are you feeding them? Red foods like blood worms, krill flakes and etc can produce poop that is also red or orange. If more than one guppy is doiing it then high likelyhood is it's coming from something you're feeding especially if they are all acting/eating normally.
this happens when i don’t feed them. idk what they’re eating in the tank for their poop to look like this lol. it looks like a solid clump of worms. they only get baby brine shrimp and tubifex worms every other/few days.
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My guppies are pooping strange worm-like poop. they are acting completely fine and are always eating. usually, when they eat algae their poop is green. please help
parameters
ph: 7.5-7.8
ammonia: 0
nitrite: 0
nitrate: ~20ppm
kh: 7
gh: 9
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that makes sense. thank you
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On 6/7/2023 at 6:18 AM, JoeQ said:
Its not a question of being 'still good' its a question of how accurate it is.
the levels varied from tank to tank and that’s enough accuracy for me lol
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On 6/6/2023 at 4:54 AM, Mmiller2001 said:
The plants need all 3 and Micros.
thank you. i’ve got everything else covered; just wanted to double check NPK
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On 6/6/2023 at 7:56 AM, JoeQ said:
I'd be more concerned about evaporation than fertilizer 'going bad'. Also im not sure what you are testing with but if its the strips be aware that they are not the most accurate. Their biggest benefit is convenience. The liquid is more accurate. In either case id recommend having your before fertilization, and after fertilization, water tested by a 3rd party to double check the accuracy of whatever testing method you are using.
i was using the aquarium co-op test strips. i made sure to test my other setups and they registered nitrates, so the strips are good. i’ll need to test again after shaking the bottle like another user suggested.
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Does easy green spoil? I dosed about 3x the amount needed for a 5 gallon tank and wasn’t registering any nitrates after each dose even after waiting a few hours.
should i talk to Candy about this?
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On 6/2/2023 at 10:40 PM, Mmiller2001 said:
Just read Tom Barr Estimative Index and his followup for non co2 injected tanks.
so, even if i have 10ppm phosphate naturally, i don’t need to have higher levels of other nutrients? like 10-20ppm N, 10ppm P, and 10-20ppm K?
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On 6/2/2023 at 11:52 AM, JoeQ said:
With the all in one's its kind of hard to follow ratios since whenever you fertalize you are changing each nutrient. This is where dry ferts really shine, you can tailor them to your tap water and tank conditions. The downside is that they take a bit of time to get over the 'learning curve' which can be intimidating.
Instead of dry ferts, i have the flourish line; nitrogen, potassium and comprehensive
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On 6/2/2023 at 10:17 AM, JoeQ said:
With the all in one fertilizer(s), IMO my main concern would be keeping a steady 1:10 ratio of Nitrate : Phosphate which the more I read is a huge deterrent when it comes to fighting algae growth.
My tap has more than 10ppm of phosphate in the water. my established tanks don't really battle any severe algae. do you think there's a certain ratio i should follow for dosing ferts?
On 6/2/2023 at 11:39 AM, Mmiller2001 said:2 years?
yeah i think he's had the same formula for a majority of his career but don't quote me on that
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On 6/2/2023 at 10:13 AM, Mmiller2001 said:
Here's an older chart, could be different now if he changed the formula.
do you know how old the chart is?
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Does anyone know how much nitrate (or any other parameter) one dose of easy green adds to a tank?
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lol it still doesn't make sense as plants wont consume that much at all in a week with a low tech set up. especially with the plants sold by aquarium co-op, but okay! *shrugs*
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What i'm asking is why does there need to be 10-25ppm already?
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On 5/30/2023 at 9:29 PM, Mmiller2001 said:
Yep, makes no sense. Especially with the vast majority of his audience are not using CO2. And now, the consensus is to keep Potassium higher than Nitrates with EI level dosing.
hopefully someone who knows will step in because Barr said "Even a healthy growing tank will not use more than 20-25ppm per week." so...
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if those are the only fish in the aquarium then yes!
those eggs are developing nicely. i hear rice fish are very easy to breed.
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Why does aquarium co-op recommend having 10-25ppm nitrates and then dosing easy green until 50ppm? I've been reading Tom Barr's posts about EI dosing so this is confusing me lol.
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On 5/19/2023 at 4:26 PM, martinmin said:
Since I don't plan to add fish at all for any time soon, so I would just not change water and see how it goes. If the 3 parameters continue to remain high, does that mean no beneficial bacteria have been developed yet?
not necessarily, it could mean that there aren't enough bacteria colonies to handle all the nitrogen being released in the water.
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rinse out your sponges, they get clogged with gunk. also make sure the impeller isn't gunked up as well.
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On 5/19/2023 at 1:01 PM, martinmin said:
It's close to one month. I am afraid too much ammonia, nitrates and nitrites will "burn" my plants and that's why the plants look dry or black?
they won't burn your plants at all. to prepare for fish, you usually have to do daily 50% water changes for the first week, 50% water changes every other day for the second week, 50% every few days for the third week, then weekly afterwards. however, i would just do weekly water changes if you aren't in any rush. here's an article by diana walstad about nitrogen uptake as well https://dianawalstad.files.wordpress.com/2017/05/biolfiltration2017a.pdf
btw, your plants look completely fine to me! that co2 injection is also helping your plants grow a lot.
the black or dryness youre talking about is probably debris/algae you can wipe off or decaying old leaves that were grown out of water.
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Let your tank sit. I'm assuming the tank was recently set up so the soil is just leaching. Stop doing water changes as well. You can resume water changes once ammonia and nitrite are 0 to reduce nitrates (or to clean up the tank a bit). Plants will take up ammonia and nitrite way before they do nitrate, even without light. They only take up nitrate as a last resort and only during peak photosynthesis. they have to convert the nitrate all the way back to ammonia which requires a good amount of energy (light + co2).
On 5/18/2023 at 11:23 PM, martinmin said:If I don't plan to add fish, how can I produce beneficial bacterial? Should I add fish food to produce it?
the beneficial bacteria grows on its own. you just need to wait. unless the soil is leaching all 3 nitrogen compounds, you already have beneficial bacteria in the tank converting ammonia to nitrite and then nitrate. how long has the tank been set up?
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have you cleaned it? people usually say they last for years
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those are definitely nerite eggs lol
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She might have something going on internally.
I say this because i’ve been dealing with a mystery illness with my bettas. my red veil tail male is nice and active but i’ve notice him getting skinnier (slightly due to my servings) but still not gaining weight even though i’ve been feeding him more. he was also losing color and developed fin rot. today i finally saw him with some stringy brown poop so i’ve gone ahead and given him some general cure.
i would start with daily water changes because clean water is the best medicine and monitor her.
without running any test on the actual fish it’s just a guessing game. i would use wavma.org to find an aquatic vet if you’re up for that
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My plants won't grow
in Plants, Algae, and Fertilizers
Posted
things are fine for the most part! i usually only see prominent growth whenever i fertilize or otherwise the plants just stagnate. i was originally just keeping the potted plants in there while i set up another tank, but the pogostemon has rooted itself in the cup haha. anyway, i haven't really seen much plant success with novaks method (except in my shrimp tank) but my nitrates are consistently low. i just need to keep up with ferts.