w0walana

things are fine for the most part! i usually only see prominent growth whenever i fertilize or otherwise the plants just stagnate. i was originally just keeping the potted plants in there while i set up another tank, but the pogostemon has rooted itself in the cup haha. anyway, i haven't really seen much plant success with novaks method (except in my shrimp tank) but my nitrates are consistently low. i just need to keep up with ferts.

this happens when i don’t feed them. idk what they’re eating in the tank for their poop to look like this lol. it looks like a solid clump of worms. they only get baby brine shrimp and tubifex worms every other/few days.

My guppies are pooping strange worm-like poop. they are acting completely fine and are always eating. usually, when they eat algae their poop is green. please help parameters ph: 7.5-7.8 ammonia: 0 nitrite: 0 nitrate: ~20ppm kh: 7 gh: 9

that makes sense. thank you

the levels varied from tank to tank and that’s enough accuracy for me lol

thank you. i’ve got everything else covered; just wanted to double check NPK

i was using the aquarium co-op test strips. i made sure to test my other setups and they registered nitrates, so the strips are good. i’ll need to test again after shaking the bottle like another user suggested.

Does easy green spoil? I dosed about 3x the amount needed for a 5 gallon tank and wasn’t registering any nitrates after each dose even after waiting a few hours. should i talk to Candy about this?

so, even if i have 10ppm phosphate naturally, i don’t need to have higher levels of other nutrients? like 10-20ppm N, 10ppm P, and 10-20ppm K?

Instead of dry ferts, i have the flourish line; nitrogen, potassium and comprehensive

My tap has more than 10ppm of phosphate in the water. my established tanks don't really battle any severe algae. do you think there's a certain ratio i should follow for dosing ferts? yeah i think he's had the same formula for a majority of his career but don't quote me on that

do you know how old the chart is?

Does anyone know how much nitrate (or any other parameter) one dose of easy green adds to a tank?

lol it still doesn't make sense as plants wont consume that much at all in a week with a low tech set up. especially with the plants sold by aquarium co-op, but okay! *shrugs*

What i'm asking is why does there need to be 10-25ppm already?

hopefully someone who knows will step in because Barr said "Even a healthy growing tank will not use more than 20-25ppm per week." so...

if those are the only fish in the aquarium then yes! those eggs are developing nicely. i hear rice fish are very easy to breed.

Why does aquarium co-op recommend having 10-25ppm nitrates and then dosing easy green until 50ppm? I've been reading Tom Barr's posts about EI dosing so this is confusing me lol.

not necessarily, it could mean that there aren't enough bacteria colonies to handle all the nitrogen being released in the water.

rinse out your sponges, they get clogged with gunk. also make sure the impeller isn't gunked up as well.

they won't burn your plants at all. to prepare for fish, you usually have to do daily 50% water changes for the first week, 50% water changes every other day for the second week, 50% every few days for the third week, then weekly afterwards. however, i would just do weekly water changes if you aren't in any rush. here's an article by diana walstad about nitrogen uptake as well https://dianawalstad.files.wordpress.com/2017/05/biolfiltration2017a.pdf btw, your plants look completely fine to me! that co2 injection is also helping your plants grow a lot. the black or dryness youre talking about is probably debris/algae you can wipe off or decaying old leaves that were grown out of water.

Let your tank sit. I'm assuming the tank was recently set up so the soil is just leaching. Stop doing water changes as well. You can resume water changes once ammonia and nitrite are 0 to reduce nitrates (or to clean up the tank a bit). Plants will take up ammonia and nitrite way before they do nitrate, even without light. They only take up nitrate as a last resort and only during peak photosynthesis. they have to convert the nitrate all the way back to ammonia which requires a good amount of energy (light + co2). the beneficial bacteria grows on its own. you just need to wait. unless the soil is leaching all 3 nitrogen compounds, you already have beneficial bacteria in the tank converting ammonia to nitrite and then nitrate. how long has the tank been set up?

have you cleaned it? people usually say they last for years

those are definitely nerite eggs lol

She might have something going on internally. I say this because i’ve been dealing with a mystery illness with my bettas. my red veil tail male is nice and active but i’ve notice him getting skinnier (slightly due to my servings) but still not gaining weight even though i’ve been feeding him more. he was also losing color and developed fin rot. today i finally saw him with some stringy brown poop so i’ve gone ahead and given him some general cure. i would start with daily water changes because clean water is the best medicine and monitor her. without running any test on the actual fish it’s just a guessing game. i would use wavma.org to find an aquatic vet if you’re up for that